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Every time we visit grandchildren there are always moments that just warm our hearts.

Found me a new Delta DP220 drill press with all the bells and whistles, foot pedal, upgraded metal working table, of course all original

Got everything put back together. Seemed to smooth the idle way up. I was also able to lean the mixture up and now we've got zero smoke and a nice smooth idle 20210307_123308.mp4

A 2 fer shot

The Lawn Rangers are perfect for little ones. I rebuilt this one for my grandkids a few years ago. Good luck with yours!!

Thanks to wheelhorseman and wheel horse parts and more. The C-160 got some new hoses today, and some cleaning too. Years of leaking hoses and dirt gone. One more project done.

Can I get in on this. No camera, just a phone. Most from the kitchen window.and this afternoon

If you ramp always back up.

@WHX24 and other folkses. Here's some pics from the digital camera gifted to Trina a few months ago. Been fiddling with settings and learning how to get out of it what she wants. Here's a few pics of animals she's taken. You'll recognize a chickadee. The other bird is a redpoll. A type of finch that isn't super common in Maine. We had a flock of them hang out for a couple weeks recently. Both were on our side deck. The deer was in the section of forest just beyond the fenced in area this evening. It moved just as she hit the button but it came out ok. This camera is another instance of the generosity of this here 🤡 crowd. Thanks Jim.

Ya think!

Took a cruise today with Rylee on the WHRat, me on Poppy with the sleigh in tow. We’ve had my 2 yr old niece since Wednesday while her mother gave birth to another beautiful baby girl... so lots and lots of tractor rides! A few spots of 3” deep sugar snow, turned the WHRat’s duals into snowball rollers!

I have got I new, but old workhorse 512D. I have searched online but am struggling to narrow down its details from the master list please see attached and thank you in advance

I always try to do a good job, but meticulous drives me crazy. One being meticulous around me requires a slap on the back of the head.

Hi Vurge Yes you can drive your horse in high range forever as long as you don't keep trying to put it into low. If it is a bent fork, and it probably is,. you could break it off and have that piece loose in the transmission. It depends on if your hubs, pulley, break drum and rear hitch come of easy. Hubs and hitches can take days or minutes to come off. I could do one in a day, counting cleaning the gears and inside of case, but figure about 2 days to repair the transmission. The shift fork mechanism is available from TORO for around $55. Shipping a transmission is around $75 if you use Fastenal. I have shipped a few with them. Someone has to take it to them, and then you pick it up from them and pay them then. Here is a thread with videos of what your transmission looks like inside and how to put it together...including the hi/low shift fork.

It's getting to be about lunch time, and apparently my horse thought I'd like some pudding to go with my sandwich

I keep going back and forth, back and forth. Sure wish you people would make up my mind.

If the pump diaphragm goes bad it will pump fuel into the crankcase whether an electric is connected or a bulb. I will never rebuild /replace a mechanical pump again unless it's a tractor I'm getting rid of. Put a plate on the engine and It's electric for me.

Hard starting issue solved with one of these as long as the existing pump can pump something. Easy, simple, cheap and nothing to break. Just a squish or 2 before you start it. Not much to loose at $7 if you don't like it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pactrade-Marine-Boat-Rubber-Fuel-Pump-Hand-Large-Primer-Bulb-Fuel-Hose-1-4-6mm/283107772078?hash=item41ea89c6ae:g:ei8AAOSwoFVaZ6LB

This is the pump I use. You can't hear it over the noise of a running engine. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6103021?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Fuel-Emissions&campaign_id=10951730297&adgroup_id=113117085528&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAiAkJKCBhAyEiwAKQBCkiZFPfBQlpcTWyyD83eA52OBxIoaT-WTsRQEb5IhfBARux_2P0b9vhoChTYQAvD_BwE&

Your mechanical fuel pump has a thin diaphragm between the fuel and your engine oil. If the diaphragm fails you will be pumping your engine full of gasoline. I would suggest you bypass the mechanical fuel pump, locate the electric pump lower than the fuel tank and run a wire with a fuse to the "A" terminal of you ignition switch. That is what I have done on a few of mine and they work well

Fiddle away EB .... thing about these cameras is soooo many settings to get rhe right pic. I tell Cindy is just keep hammering the button & chances are yer gonna get one pic comes out good, focus and what not ... rest can be deleted as easy as they were taken. Throw a little shell corn out or those sunflowers for the deer .... that gets them to stand still. Took this one just a few days ago but no idea what's with the blue hue.... was broad daylight but taken thru a window??

I have a small blast cabinet that I haven't used in quite a while because of the lack of a vacuum system. If you have tried to use a blast cabinet with out a vacuum system, you know that the dust accumulation in the cabinet makes it almost impossible to see what you're doing. The last time that I used my blast cabinet I tried to just use a Shop Vac for dust collection. Well... that resulted in a junk Shop Vac. The strain of the fine dust was just too much for the ol' girl. I've also heard stories of guys Shop Vac's starting on fire when used for this purpose. I would like to use my Blast cabinet again and have looked at a few collection systems that are of course big $$$. I came across this video showing A DIY dust collector that looks easy to build and very low priced. I'm thinking on giving it a try to see if it will work for the sand dust. I'm thinking at worst I will be out a low priced Shop Vac if it don't work. Welcome any thoughts before I give it a try.

Zerks are 1/4 28

I NEVER ride the tractor up or down the ramps.As long as the tractor runs,I walk along side it ready to shut the key off.Standard shift,I use 1st gear low range.Hydro's,I just let the tractor crawl.Has worked pretty good for me........So far.I've got a tilt deck,double axle trailer that I'm putting a 9,000 pound Harbor Freight winch on once the snow melts off the trailer.Tired of hand come-alonging dead equipment on.Also have a decent,low mileage 1989 Ford F-600 cab and chassis that I've thought about building a ramp body for.Would make a super nice toy hauler.Problem is......I'm getting too old for most of this crap.

Thanks for the input everyone. I'm actually planning on trying to fix this transmission. It's a matter of figuring out how much time and space I need to set aside. Weekend vs a month... I can't devote long blocks of time to this so is more like a month long project for me. Of all the similar threads here, I haven't found anyone (so far) who just gave up! That must be a good sign. 😂 The shipping question is in case I don't succeed and/or to have a spare while this is out of service. On a side note, the K301 seems to be running good after an oil change and carburetor adjustment. It'll idle and throttle up smoothly now. I know it's a simple thing for you *older* folks, but I'm still figuring this out. I just learned yesterday that these older machines won't run without a good battery! Died as soon as I removed the jumper cables. Google saved the day before I started taking things apart!

Wrong decals to be that early. The dark red decals were late 80's. Looks like 1986 was the only year they were made. The engine spec I found says it has a 8.5HP Robin 412cc 1-cyl diesel That's all I've found about it so far. Here's a manual for the engine

Pullstart is meticulous in his safety preparations.

So one deer says to the other "Hey, what's that red dot on your forehead?"

I am very careful never to misplace meticulous, you never know when I'll need them to repair something.

Clearly the primer bulb is a good inexpensive option for slow starting...BUT When a mechanical pump fails internally you can destroy the engine. Common occurrence no, but $30 for a pump vs how much for an overhaul???

I have an unusually large noggin and I got one of his flex fit extra large caps and it fits really nice. It was great quality, he is very responsive, and probably 20% less than what most outfits charge for flex fit the caps.

I all ready tried that. No deal. Besides the PeeAaa Fish and Game considers baiting a felony. I did think I may sleep on Jay's back porch during the big show.

Here’s something I use on my ground engaging implement tractor if I need to move a cart or a trailer. I just flip it over depending on whether I’m needing a trailer ball or a pin hitch. I had ordered these from Lowell for some other projects and never used them so I put this together. Some much less expensive channel steel would also work just fine.

@Mickwhitt has you covered. Here is an illustration from the Kohler service manual.

Not knowing what you are willing to spend it is hard to make suggestions. However a cyclone separator is the most efficient method that will not clog any filters or bags. I use two of those. One small one connected to a shop vacuum used to clean shop and attach to small tools such as a router and sander, and a larger one attached to an inexpensive dust collector from harbor freight. The last one is dedicated to the top side of table saw only. Bothe will drop collected dust to their container without clogging vacuum filter or bag . As a matter fact I probably have not opened my shop vacuum in over one year, but sometimes emptying the cyclone container twice per week. The small cyclone has a much higher static pressure than the larger one.

Inclement weather totals in Monroe, NC, USA this year = Snow......0" Ice/ Freezing rain.....0" Rain.....1, 938, 600"

Installed a new 340 cca battery in the 315. The old one was getting very weak. Now she fires right up like it used to

@Lane Ranger we were just talking about “skidding” things, like dirt or horse poo, or leaves, etc. we forgot to mention people! We skid people with an S10 hood

I did the same thing you made @Achto just on a bigger scale with a 55 gal plastic drum. Hooked up to a harbor freight dust collector with a canister filter and it’s worked well for me so far for blast cabinet use as well as woodworking.

PICTURE HEAVY Last weekend we took all the shrouds and tins off the exterior of the K582. Today's project was too repair our rolling work table. My maternal grandfather had it in workshop/barn since back when sand was boulders. Needed to tighten things up and replace a couple boards. We then got the big twin up on the table. I drained the oil and removed the oil filter. @pullstart here's some pics of the top of the engine. Please lemme know what else you need/want. Engine exterior outside pics pictures.

I've used 1/8" steel. Pretty simple to make...

I have made them out of an old aluminum door frame and used the same gasket as the pump.

A little late to this, but here's my little 656 helping with spring cleanup. Just put two new axle seals on and she's back at work!

Several years ago, I installed a Facet 1-2 PSI electric pump and filter from Aircraft Spruce for about $35. on my Case 4016. Using new gas line, I installed the filter/pump as close to the tank as possible. The original mechanical pump still does its thing just like before. I used a momentarily 'ON' push button switch with a 3 amp fuse close to the battery. Just hold the button in for 5 secs or so, turn the key and off I go! No more grinding away for 30 - 40 secs after the tractor sat for a month or more. Last fall I installed a good inline squeeze type of primer with 1/4" fittings on my C-101. We'll see how well it works in a couple of weeks when I get the tractor out and ready for mowing. Yes, it was simpler, cheaper and easier to install but, not as cool as pushing a button.

You can run the slot hitch for ground engaging and the regular hitch for towing at the same time. You can also use the clevis hitch and regular hitch together as well.

The Ponds were meticulous in using up old parts, regardless of the impact on future owners trying to figure out what model and year they own to replace said parts...

I love the cordless tools, but you'll have to pry my plug-in circular saw, ½" drill, and angle grinder out of my cold dead hands. Pretty sure that's my son's plan, actually!

Having just rebuilt mine after overhauling the engine i agree with Eric, take care that it goes back together correctly. That means as per the manual, not as you stripped it down as a PO may have built it up wrong. There are stamped in marking for Top on the cover and the leak hole must go down on the inner plate. The filter media looks like some kind of fibre mesh in a block. It was oiled and dirty but a wash in solvent restored it to clean and new looking. Take care about the metal Reed valves, they open and close to allow the engine to breathe, hence the term breather unit. Also when I got the complete engine new gasket kit there was a piece of 1/4 inch inside diameter rubber fuel pipe about a half inch long in the bag. No mention of it in the contents and I couldn't think what it was for and it was going in the bin as a mistaken addition. But as I built up the breather it became obvious the rubber tube went over the stud to act as a spacer cum seal between the two parts of the breather unit. Not sure if this is in the manual but I didn't see any reference to it as I did my rebuild. Hope this helps. Mick

@roadapples - what are you putting out to attract the turkeys? I've seen some about 5 miles up the road from us. The neighbouring property is wooded, and that property borders on a state game area. Wouldn't surprise me if there were turkeys nearby.