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Took a second tractor / sleigh ride / nap today. Second gear, likely around 2300 rpms. Wouldn’t you know, my Tough As Nails Wheel Horse “Poppy” the 552 never skipped a beat. I know that plowing snow and fields will test a GT to it’s limits. Pulling a sleigh and a couple kids? Naw, that’s like retirement to this thing! Now, I’ll sip a coffee and wait for the little one to wake. And @Mikey the Monkey I think today’s the day she’ll become a big sister

I really feel sorry for that 552.

Geez someone out getting seat time and here I am sittin here doing a resto! This 701 hood @Achto give me going to the blaster tomorrow so just for the halibut see if I could get the original decal off. With the help of a razor thingy and a little heat. I should see if i can decoupage it to a nice plaque for a wall hanger.

This Super A is sort of row cropish, very stable especially when you adjust the axle width.

The mind is a terrible thing to loose. That was a steel nozzle. Turns out the one in my parts box is the carbide one I bought but hadn't put in yet....

How much for the mane.....been thinkin about a transplant.

@pullstart you are an accident waiting to happen . Hope you have good insurance .

All of the letter series Farmall's (A,B,C,H,M and the Cub) were considered row crop tractors. They had adjustable widths and more ground clearance and were labeled Farmall. The high crop versions of the Farmall's would have the letter V after the first letter. Like this MV for example. During that time the W series (W4,W6,W9,) were considered standard tractors. The W4 had the same engine as the H. The W6 had the same engine as the M. The W9 stood alone and had the largest engine for IH at the time. These were mainly tillage tractors, they did not have adjustable widths and were labeled as McCormick's.

My moto is and has been, skin grows back but gloves cost money. Bob

My horse died...I am thinking about parting it out.

We see ones like this barreling down the road quite frequently and they do have a road gear.

Hand the wife a shovel is the easiest way! Ramp would probably be best as it might be difficult to pull it out of a ditch

Just saw this on FB. Mighty fine!

I try to use the threaded ones on everything I can. I trust them more than the little clippy ones.

Recently got a "new" D200 and among a few of its problems was the gas tank was way gone! Tanks are scarce for the 'D's' and only one I could find was $300 plus shipping - that was a bit much for me. While prowling the bay I ran across an import version of the well known "Jerry Can" for cheap and thought .... Hmmmmm! Surprisingly the rust was mainly on the sides of the tank which left the studs and fuel valve in good shape. Using a hole saw I cut the existing fixtures out, dressed/cleaned them up and brazed them to the new tank. Being the typical 'import' item the metal was quite thin and despite using the low heat for brazing, I still blew 3-4 holes. Doing a 'bench test' putting some fuel in to ck for leaks --- well, took me 3 tries to get them all plugged up! And here we are (despite the fuzzy pic) Turned out pretty well, even looks pretty close to the original tank

I don’t know... Gonna consult the Bumps & Bruises mods on this one... That looks like just a plain ole’ flesh wound... no spurting’, oozin’ or bone showin’... Gotta say it’s not up to your usually high injury standards... Slow day in the mid-Mitten?

Last time plowing with Poppy, it was running pretty iffy... then not at all. I cleaned and checked the gap on the points, degreased the front of the engine and cleaned up the filthy spark plug. We’re chug-a-luggin’ again! It’s a beautiful day for tractor rides before ALL the snow melts!

Got one of these?

Just an update on my experiences with the OTR AGs, I was out this evening starting to repair the lawn and try to push some of the gravel and sod back to where it belongs, so right before putting the back in the barn there's still snow on the hill in the back yard, so with Kevin @pullstart getting hung in the slush I figured I should see how the ole 520 would go up the hill in 2-3" wet/slush like snow on still nearly frozen ground... Fluid filled and around 70# of iron wheel weights, NO chains needed unlike turf tread ,enjoy. 20210303_170015.mp4

I'll take the rear end ....aaahhh second thought there's enough of them here to go around....

Kevin I'm just happy to see this didn't require an emergency room visit

What for? It was a carcass when I got it, used parts I had on hand to make little kids, along with myself, smile many, many times.

Then finally made it to safety. The plentiful amounts of clean snow surrounding helped keep my finger clean and well.

Similar down the road from me:

High Crop tractors were used for cultivation and were primarily used by flatlanders so stability wasn't that big of a concern. As a kid I cultivated corn and potatoes with a 1949 Case SC much like the one pictured below. The taller rear wheels and narrow front made it less stable than a high crop would probably be but we had no problem.

Gives a whole new meaning to "Duallies"

Tried My Hand at Planing......... Oh man, I thought we were gonna see some great fishing videos.

Wish I had a wife... I need someone to do my laundry, too.

WHAT Monkey you got another offspring !?!?! Are congrats in order ?We want pics of the little rascal! Fill me in I promise I won't cuss or order you to have another one! I'm lost but you know I'm slow ... I'm handing it to you then.. I got some of that 50/50 epoxy on the shelf but might be bad by now.... thinking glue in on to a bark edged board and using that .. SWMBO might go for that with her cabin motif. ... Maybe even let me put it in the bedroom.wher i can get something to look at.....

So it melted completely 10 times? Or is only 1/10th of what it was?

Kevin, stick that finger in a shot of Wheel Horse Bourbon. It will only sting for a minute.

Forgot pic

yer replaceable... the tractor I hear tell they don't make them anymore If a guy smashes his thumb getting a hitch pin out that's an honorable would and can not be held against him .... smashing it out of stupidity now,,...

Time to add 4 wheel drive.

I like these projects. And sliding doors are certainly the current trend. I suspect in a few years when this runs its course that all of our homes will appear dated. I don't have better pictures, but I made these sliding doors from Alder for my basement to close off a bedroom. My wife looked at lots of doors and didn't find anything that was to her liking (that we were willing to pay for) so asked if I could make something instead. She wanted them to be heavier looking than the off the shelf models. The vertical boards float in grooves I cut into the stiles and rails. To block vision between adjacent boards, I cut grooves into the edge of each vertical board and put splines in between. The splines are glued into only one of the boards so they don't rattle. Because I didn't know when to say when, there is a little bit of EPDM foam in the grooves of the rails here and there to keep it snug but still let them grow as needed, hopefully without blowing it apart. So far, so good. No massive movement or problems due to humidity swings. I had planned to tenon everything together, but got lazy and used a fancy gizmo that makes floating tenons instead for expediency. No metal fasteners, but it felt like cheating. I don't have pix of the finished doors. They are sort of gray now. The top and bottom panels aren't the same height but the angle of the photo makes it appear so. If I had to do it over, they wouldn't be so thick. I think they ended up around 1-3/4" which means the track at the top needs to stand off the wall further than I wanted. Didn't think that through... Steve PS - in anticipation of the "you sure like expensive tools comment" I'll defend myself by saying I buy all of my stuff used.

I commend you for turning a living room into anything else! At our old house, I built a master bath out of a living room. It was pretty much a total gut and redo. I even cut an 8’ hole in the exterior wall to reframe for a big bay window above the garden tub!

Here’s an update, after day 2. There was a 2x10 underneath the bay window so we had to frame out a little bit bit more. We filled it all with insulation! (It’s a gambrel house) got the closet sorta framed. Tightened up some wiring, I had to add a 2 gang box so it could be exposed!

This could get really ugly. I found another snow blower.

If I’d just realize “stay out of the deep stuff” things would probably work out for the better. I get that. But where’s the fun? I’ve quote Lee Brice’s “Life Off My Years” a few times in the past. “Some's born to take life easy, I was born to live life on a dare I never worried about the fall, y'all, just how high I got in the air” After an hour or more riding the field, I took a chance and buried Poppy the 552. Taking a Hail Mary out of Uncle Jim’s Play Book of Regerts I decided to stick the tractor in reverse and make my hands into the front axle by pushing the tires backwards. I slipped my right hand off and right into the flywheel screen. One knick was all it took to tell me that’s not a smart decision. Out came the shovel and no tractors were abandoned in the making of this story.

You just wasted some good pics for front end Friday & side shot Saturday & Sunday, the heck with your finger, we don't know where it's been.

Questions make me think, and I enjoy thinking! This is a bit long winded... As you and @ebinmaine surmised, the purpose of the curve is to "roll" the material being graded so that it falls forward instead of piling up and over the blade. Snow, for instance, will readily pile up unless forced to roll. Coarse gravel not so much. (In civil engineering, this is called the material's "angle of repose".) Other materials are in between. Also, when the blade is at an angle to the forward motion, the material "rolls" forward but also sideways a bit and it is this sideways motion that causes it to move across the blade until it gets pushed aside. So to answer you questions: - a blade composed of three flat segments (leaning back, vertical, and leaning forward) would work for many materials--probably better than a single shallow V, as long as the angles approximate a curved blade's radius - ¼" is overkill for the blade shell based on the loads that you can reasonably expect a WH to push -- 3/16 would be more than enough and some lighter commercial units are even thinner gauges by virtue of having a supplemental scraper edge and bracing across the back side where it attaches to frame - the angle of attack of the blade edge determines how aggressively it digs into the ground. If your likeliest use is to smooth gravel or soil then a more vertical angle makes sense--the machines that smooth horse racing tracks have vertical blades. If you plan to displace more hard packed materials, say carving the center or sides of a rutted dirt road, then you'll need a less vertical blade edge. The one on the WH units is a compromise intended for general usage soils and gravels -- it can dig into moderately packed soil but is not suited for aggressive digging (and this is in line with the amount of power most WH's can deliver)! For example, a common (Cub, Husq, Craftsman) 15" high "snow/dirt" garden tractor plow curve has an 11.5" radius and is mounted to have the top edge directly above the bottom edge. The one 7.5" high grader blade I measured had a 4" radius (i.e. a "deeper" curve than the snow blade) to make sure the the dirt rolled before overtopping the shorter blade. (Trundle out your HS geometry to figure the angles of the tangents to the circles at the bottom edge!)

I learned a little about the criticality of wood stability a couple years back when I installed 3/4" white oak T&G flooring in my home. At the recommendation of the mill supplier, I stored the flooring for a month on battens in the rooms where it was going to be installed . It had to reach the same moisture content as the subfloor.

My house is about 15 ft off a main route but in the village. If one travels north there is a rt turn about 50 yrds. further down the road. The Mennonites drive these things blasting by my house and somehow make the corner. It's like being invaded by aliens!

I would LOVE that! I've been a power tool hobbyist for a while but have played with handplanes a bit on larger pieces of wood that were too cumbersome to cram into the machines. It was so gratifying to watch the shavings pile up on the floor as the board flattened and the soreness in my upper body really felt good. I'm not a romantic, but making little pieces of wood out of big pieces of wood with hand tools is as close as it gets for me! Steve

K even after widening that im right at 2.25 for the lens. By widening, all thats being accomplished is further weakening the front frame and still not being able to pin the lens between it and the body. Legthening the lense and drilling the screw holes still would not prevent the lens from bowing inward. Soooooo...were gonna return to the original lens size, add a back plate the same thickness as the lens, and samich the lens between the inside and outside frame. This way the lens remains replaceable/customizable, less cost in plexi,but we do add additional time to print the back plate. Combined thickness should end up right around 1/4 inch, a couple mm thicker than the original. What do yall think?

EB I’m no farmer or scientist or engineer, but I imagine a high crop is built so heavy and stout, the extra height is negligible at reasonable work speeds. They also look like an old gasser, so they must be awesome!

LOL. You are welcome. I am always glad to see someone using these tools. As for the blade clamp ( called a lever cap) you want that screw just tight enough that you can lock the cam with a little bit of effort but not too much. Too much, makes it hard to adjust the thumb screw to lower or raise blade. Too loose and it will pop upwards with the resistance from the wood as blade starts to cut not allowing blade to remain adjusted.. There is also a cap iron (chip breaker) attached to that blade. you want that about 1/16" or less from the edge of blade. It make a difference on how smooth blade will leave wood. It causes the shaving to curl immediately after being cut, this way eliminating the wedging effect blade has when it cuts. If they are perfectly tuned there is no other tool or sandpaper that leaves a better finish. That is a fact.. Perhaps a plane tuning tutorial next.