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I enjoy restoring one of my tractors each winter. Last winter I took on a resto for a friend instead of doing one of mine. This winter I chose to give my 701 the royal treatment. I have owned this tractor for a couple of years so I have made a few repairs to it already. One of the first thing that I fixed was the incorrect, chopped up belt guard. I made a new one to replace the one that came with the tractor when I bought it. One other part that I remade was the fender brace. The one that was on the tractor looked like it was made by Dr. Seuss. I made a new one to factory specs. One other thing that was out of place was the ignition coil, a PO had it mounted on top of the engine. The hood would not fit properly this way so they had some crazy mount rigged up to raise the front of the hood to make clearance. The mounting bracket for the coil was missing so I made a new one so that the coil could be mounted in the correct place. Along with the above repairs I also managed to get the engine singing like a song and made sure the transmission was right and leak free. Today was "go time" for starting on the rest of the tractor. In this next pic some of you may look at the tractor & say that it did not need a resto. Well it was "restored" when I got it but the craftsmanship was not up to my expectations. So it was time to make this tractor mine. This is what my 701 looked like this morning. Three hours later it looked like this. r I did have to stop with the tear down to repair an issue that the last "restorer" did not take care of. Every surface of the rear dash tower mount was painted, so I know that the PO never tried to repair the issue. I wanted to make sure that the part was welded back in place before I disassembled the rest of the tractor. The hole in the frame for the front hood bolt was waaay too big. I think that it was drilled bigger so that the hood could be raised to accommodate having the coil mounted in the wrong place. A little time with the welder, grinder and a drill returned the hole to a more appropriate size. Some where along the line the bar for the foot rest must have broken loose from the frame. It was welded back on but far from the correct position. After painstakingly grinding the welds back I was able to return it to it's correct position. And now for my "What were you thinking" PO awards. Honorable mention goes to - Instead of replacing the bushings in the rim, it is a better idea to jamb a tube over to spindle and slide the rim over this tube with no bushings. BTW, this tube is now brown welded to the spindle. The Grand Prize goes to this. It is comprised of a chunk of wood tucked behind the idle pulley and the "custom" chunk of metal in front of the pulley. Lucky for me these were only held in place with two 1/4" bolts so they were easy to remove. For the life of me, I can not figure out what purpose they would have served. Lots of clean up work to do before I start sand blasting and finish body work. I will post more pics as I go along.

@Handy Don @ebinmaine @DennisThornton @pullstart @PeacemakerJack, here's what you need for driveway maintenance...

Woke up to plow but the used car salesmen was wrong with the weather forecast again. So I gave my pony a hug and did some shopping for her...bought her some new parts. Now we wait, like a starving savage in the woods, waiting for Bambi and her momma.

If you get the one piece decal from Terry @Vinylguy you will only need to get a smooth paint job on the dash before installing one of his decals. It will come out looking like the one posted above by @Racinbob. if you order one of Terry's 3 piece decals then you will need to do more prep work on your dash. Either have it chromed or paint it silver. This dash has the 3 piece decal on it. To get the silver finish and make it look brushed, I painted it silver then waited for it to dry. After it dried I scuffed it with Scotch Brite making sure to only scratch in one direction, then I clear coated it. Applied decals after the clear had dried. Turned out great, looks even better in the sun.

Pulled the K-20 out this weekend for a warm up and some sunshine.

Before: After:

My bad ....it's a long frame Word of caution when tightening the the choke and throttles the "D" hole does not keep them from turning and you can end up with a wrinkled decal. Same with mounting screws. Ok here's a short frame

Saw this sweet K10 at my niece’s birthday party this weekend...

That's looking good Craig, let me know when you get that done and I will swing by next time I visit the family and bring it home!!! Randy

I think on here somewhere I mentioned when I picked this Scottsdale R-30 up after it showed up at the dealer after waiting 3 months I drove it home and got 5 mpg with it. 454 TBI 4.10 rear 4 speed trans. I thought I may have seen more than this as it sits Cab & Chassis. After panel body and loaded up with tools and equipment I ended up just over 7 mpg after break in. Still wouldn't change it for anything and boy was that a blast to drive without the body, of course I had to break it in the correct way for a few months before working it.

Cut loose and buy a new phone so it's not dead and buy your wife a shed of her own you skin flint!

What? You needs one of these for the shed door:

Maybe cut down the size of the axle pulley by using a jack shaft with pulleys between the engine and axle? Or a right angle gear box and or use of a torque converter instead of a centrifugal clutch?

What have i done for my Wheelhorse today? - I just stroked it tenderly today. This year we don‘t have so much Snow at once, just 2 times about 6-8“ a Day, but i tried a test. Because the lack of fitting chains, i do an old Offroader trick on sand and mud I dropped the Air down to 0,3 Bar, in the Wheels ( on brand new tires they be flexible enough to work) what seems to work out fine. even on icy underground or when i pushed the Snow in the fields, i didn‘t need chains, sure, it was slippery but i need just a bit of a run up and it worked out well for me. And it‘s also just a 6HP Engine. i have no comparsion yet with 12“ or above Snow, but i hope next year again. As a secret weapon i plan a Snowblower for next year and a lightweight cabin - but this is still under construction for next year. and maybe i will look for chains they fit

I figured on it so lemme run this by you. 2 or 3 vibration absorption coils at each end. Solid clamps with rubber insulators. Off engine to follow frame back to column support. Then vertically to the gauge. I was thinking of a tie down every foot or less.

1/8" copper tubing. 72" long. Now we're headed the right way... Mechanical oil pressure gauge line. I went with copper instead of plastic/nylon because of the look I'm after.

CNC programmed my hydraulic pump cage today. No new snow here in Marshall either, so nothing else to do.

2018 flash flood at my parents, this was a day later same driveway I shared in video a week ago... VIDEO0111.mp4

Gee I could get in free if I brought my M-37... Only take about 14 hours ...assuming i didn't get rear ended going 40 on the interstate. OK 45 downhill

I'm just waiting for the next instalments.

I am afraid of rolling pins...? | Yahoo Answers

140 amp rating is certainly more than enough (maybe over kill but who cares)

Not too long ago @dells68 was building a wheelbarrowwheelhorse custom and @prondzy built the "Tub Rat" so rest assured you aren't breaking any laws around here. Also, John @wallfish made a motorcycle out of a snowplow frame.

Good work, Dan! I'll be tagging along on this one too.

Today's progress was cutting a hole in the bucket thus committing the location of the sleering box location. Upon review I am going to move everything back 6" because I may have to open the "dash" to extend my legs. The go kart seat I am considering may also need extra space and I think opening the back will also be required, but with careful consideration to retaining cosmectic apperance. The addition of a short truck bed will help with the seat location and will hold the battery and gas tank. The drive belt is my biggest concern clearing the tub to a pulley on the solid axle. Engine in the front, no transmission, centrifugal clutch and one forward speed. I also have to shorten the steering column

grandson bagging/leafing 2020 ---- next to photo my son 1989 week one on our shinny new Horse --

Not on this side of the Pond. There's a garden someplace under there.

So glad I have helped inspire you since our first collaboration with the weight/bumper/ and now plow antisway bar .

Been looking at old Stewart Warner gauges....

sun is coming out spring is already upon attaching the decks

Tap tap tap....

You probably could, but it would take like shoes or disc brakes on each axle and a separate brake pedal...if you are looking to brake one at a time. You would not need the brake drum then.

Your thinking on the brakes is not correct. With your transmission, the brake drum is on the cluster gear shaft. Older transmissions have the brake drum on the 11/44 tooth gear. That does not mater. When you step on the brake pedal, you pull the brake band tight on the brake drum. In your case it stops the cluster gear shaft from turning...that keeps the 11/44 tooth gear from turning, which keeps the differential bull gear from turning. This stops both wheels because the bull gear can not rotate. Right now, if you jacked up the rear end and turned one wheel the other one would turn in the opposite direction. That's the pinions inside your differential, but the horse can not go forward...but you could pick up the front end and walk it around in a circle all day. This is what John was trying to say.

@WHX24 You might want to keep an eye on the build. If you see me making some thing that you will need for your 701 let me know so that I can make 2 right away.

Long frame also: (Looks like Jim bought a gross of Allen head screws! )

6ga is stock but I go 4ga. Heat shrink the crimps.

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing!! Randy

I am using this stuff from McMaster It is super flexible note the strand count. Very fine individual strands. i ordered 6 ga Blk and Red but they the red coil I received was 4ga.

I have found spindles that had cracked welds where the plate the tie rod connects to attaches to the spindle. You almost can't even see it but it allows the spindle to rotate while the plate stays where it's supposed to be

What sort of Case are we talking about here?? There's a local .. 'metal yard' let's call it, planning to break up a small fleet of 30-50's era Case tractors not far from me. May be able to get some parts off them? Worth a shot anyway.

Not sure what type of surface your pulling the weight on but from my experience duals spred the weight of the rearend over more surface so to me singles would bite into the ground better for more pulling power vs floating on top of the ground. Just my maybe I'm wrong?

I hauled some wood and took the big shoes for a walk.

Raider 14 and c-120

Wasn't sure if the 420 would be able to make it out to the cabin without weights & chains, I was wrong. Perfect conditions for traction I suppose and having the 20 HP Kohler wound right up and the hydro lever all the way forward may have helped some to make that grade back to the yard . Unbelievable Weather today for late February.

Because of beginning springtime, i removed the Snowplow and mounted the Tiller. look if some wears can be found, but all sems fine so put it to it‘s new place and grabbed the Tiller. After an Oilchange i be curious if it‘s Engine will start and how many pull i need. I didn‘t expected that.. Ready for next weekend Fieldwork.👍 I love it if things going that Way.

As cheap as snowplows are these days, I figured my extra one would be an economical base to build upon. The gold is just some cheap paint to highlight the dry cement and dents.