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I am guessing a roof is the best thing. After that what others have said.

Someone’s in the shop with Daddy today... Brake job for me, RJ work for her. Buddies.

@Gregor I'll dig out that hood and see what it looks like and if it will fit. Perhaps we can relay it to the Dino who can relay it close to you. Shipping would be a bear unless some of the other guys have ideas. I'll take no money for it as most of those hoods I got for free off auction piles. We'll work somthing out. Not today tho I get seat time with ladies in waiting plus a Packer game to get ready for!

I replaced mine with these from Surplus Center. They were exact fit for my 1276 and are cheap enough there's no point in screwing with the old ones unless you want to keep them. I haven't had a leak issue with mine and they have been on for 5 years or so. 1/4" X 12" JIC 4F X JIC 4F 5800 PSI HYD HOSE ITEM NUMBER: 920-2212 PRICE: $7.50 1/4" X 18" JIC 4F X JIC 4F 5800 PSI HYD HOSE ITEM NUMBER: 920-2218 PRICE: $8.60 1/4" X 24" JIC 4F X JIC 4F 5800 PSI HYD HOSE ITEM NUMBER: 920-2224 PRICE: $9.70 1/4" X 30" JIC 4F X JIC 4F 5800 PSI HYD HOSE ITEM NUMBER: 920-2230 PRICE: $10.95

I've had a few like that years ago. Now I replace them with this:

I say run the crap outta it till something flies apart. Being a hammer mechanic myself all I can do is build, break,replace with bigger parts. " insert toolman grunt" 😄😄

Dodge trucks use them so their Mickey Mouse ears don't look so big

Depending on your tools, Is it easier to bend the 3/4 rods or drill a 3/4 hole? Maybe something like this to weld a 3/4 rod into. Might be stronger too. $20 from Northern tool but may find them less expensive somewhere else

Hauled some firewood today

It's called an EZ Drain. A piece of tubing slides on that nipple and into a jug. I have one on my truck too. Love them.

Here’s some more progress pics. Next up is weld that tube steel to the top of the cut blade to stiffen it all up. Then start working on the rear mounts. I’m going to try to keep the a frame as parallel to the ground as possible.

The other thing to keep in mind is not to cut piece to exact length. Leave it long. Bends do not always fall exactly where needed. Cut to length after bending.

Good Video. I would use the vise and put both pieces together in the vise at the start of where you want the bend. Make a small wire bent to same angle so you can put it against the rod as a gauge. You say you have a torch and need to heat both pieces putting more heat to the outside of the bend area because this area must stretch more than the inside. I would say you need to heat an area twice the thickness of the material to get that tight bend . About 1 1/2" because you want a tight bend. You can always leave extra material on both side and trim to fit. Hope this helps.

I dont have any pics.That was about 15yrs ago. I lost alot of pics when my old desk top computer crapped out. 3 of us put it together for the guy who started it. The guy had a heart attach and had a pace maker put in. Knowing he was going to be laid up a for a while we figured we would help out. His wife gave us the key to the garage. When he was able to get out and about it was done. It was a '51 Ford F4 on an S-10 frame 350/350. Channeled 4in. Lowered 2in. It took 4 F1 rear fenders to make the rear wheel openings the same size as the fronts. He had 15x10in wheels on all 4 corners. It was a cool ride.

Black hoods or red hoods the Kohlers beneath shake it cast iron trans moves it

Which is why I don't like to paint anything and go with the rat rod look

Hello everyone. New 1277 owner here. I was wondering what you all use to protect your tractors paint and help prevent rust. I'm not trying to reverse patina or provide a show quality finish. Just want to know some proactive steps to take to protect and keep the tractor looking good.

I don't under stand this approach. Could you please explain? Aren't you just supposed to just keep adding on to the garage to make room for the newest member of the herd???

I have a 3/4" all thread like EB was talking about but mine is bolted through the work bench. Holds the wheel while tires go on or off. plasdtic lid under the rim and some fingers cut from an old leather glove help save the paint.

Put a horse on the horse.mounted on a magnet.The wife thinks I’m nuts 🥜 😝

I'm the same way. It's called R&D

Spoiler alert: This is a bit technical by a one-time mechanical engineer. I tried setting this up as a "sum of forces" model, just to see scale and direction, with the joint at different positions in its rotation. Came away realizing that it all comes down to: - strength of the castings holding the pivot bearings -- probably adequate since they are already supporting similar or greater loads to transmit power - strength of the bearings and races -- longitudinal -- again, seem to already be strong enough to transmit power, the longitudinal forces are new but are in the same planes as the rotational forces and seem to be well within the symmetric bearings' capabilities, - strength of the bearings and races -- lateral with inner "T" at horizontal/vertical -- the added "supporting" forces for the horizontal shaft of the joint's inner "T" resolve into the same directions on the bearings and races as do the rotational forces in the "standard" use; depending on the amount of "play" in the bearings, there may be some force pushing "sideways" on the vertical shaft's bearings -- lateral with inner "T" at 45º angle -- the added supporting forces are shared by all four arms of the "T" and at each bearing the force is split between being in the plane of the bearing (all good) and at 45º to that plane (i.e. tending to push the bearing's inner race sideways, kinda like a WH PTO on an engine crankshaft). So that incremental load of each joint's share of the machine weight + operator + "bumps" varies from being borne by fully and "in plane" by the two bearings at the horizontal "T" to being 50-50 and angularly on all four bearings when the "T" is at 45º So, to me, it is the strength and capacity of the bearings to handle the 45º loading over time that is the key to the machine's durability. I'm going with it working fine for what @Oldskool has in mind.

Yup. More than once. I think that's 3/8" pipe. You can go to a hardware store and get a pipe coupler and a square head pipe plug. Then change the oil and you will be able to use an adjustable wrench next time

I agree that using this pump will not work for a front end loader. My thoughts were that it may be a good replacement for the Wheel Horse HY pumps that were made by Hien Werner. These were nice compact self contained units that worked well to add hydraulic lift to a gear driven tractor. It was designed to lift the mower deck. snow blower. plow, etc. Hien Werner also made this pump for other companies like Bolens, Cub Cadet, and Economy. A pic of the HY kit. This is where it would mounted on a round nose if you added the HY kit to one. The pumps made for were designed to turn counter clock wise and were driven off from the PTO side of the engine. On a 953 or 1054 it would have been mounted at the factory and would be hidden under the center counsel between the dash and seat. The small handle on the right side of the center counsel is your control handle. I add a Hien Werner pump labeled as a Century Fox on to my Raider 12. My pump was designed to turn clock wise and had to run off from the flywheel side of the engine. I added some linkage to get the control closer to me.

On the one panzer I made all the lift bars. I made the bends by "cold" bending. It's all about a good vise that's bolted down good and a 4 foot piece of bethlehem steel pipe.

There are too many areas where you just can't get paste wax or other rub-on solutions to completely cover areas prone to rust. Good paint isn't going to allow the metal to rust as long as the tractor is dry. If you can keep it under roof, in a garage or shed, you will have more success than trying to oil it or wax it. Before I had a storage building, many of mine sat outside, covered with a tarp.

Love your 1277, I have one with a loader on it. Letting it sleep indoors will do the most for it, as well as just keeping it clean. Looks like you have nice example to take care of!! Randy

This is probably where you cross the line with hoarding....going up with metal racks to fit over 40 tractors where 20 use to sit....going up is the only way! LoL

Worked on Pullstart's 701 motor... cleaning, new exhaust valve & glassed head.

This is my least favorite part. Did I ever mention I HATE sanding.

I picked one up cheap this summer. It isnt a tractor mount. I thought about attaching it to a wagon/cart so you can tow it behind a tractor. Plus give it a wider base.

The rear hitch point is done. What a p.i.t.a. I had to partially assemble to see how much room I had then dissemble to the point of taking the rear strut section off. I think I can keep moving forward from here.

Has anyone seen an engine oil drain like this? This is on a k241 engine. This might be common but I am new to wheel horse. I can't seem to find any pictures of a drain plug like this. Thanks!

Seller is clearly confused. Or.. Literally could be a scam. Up here one of the tactics scammers use is to copy an ad or 2 together and put a ridiculous low price. Then string you along.......

@Ted Gardner Some of the earlier posts made were considering the side load on the U joints by having the weight and bounce forces applied to them vertically from the way they are being used. Not so much the turning forces to drive them. Don't run away! We are glad to have everyone's input as that's how we all learn here. This place is better than a university's Zoom meeting!

Betting Trina could do it for you Eric.

I was kind of having the same thought process as Trina and I were watching that but then she pointed out to me that the reason they use them is because they're so easy to build work on, maintain, etc. And also tough as nails.

That reminds me to also use pre lube while doing the assembly.

If the hoses are in good condition, keep them because you will never find fittings that fit so well. Do replace the fitting o-rings and rebuild the cylinder if it is leaking.

Another battle of old timer QBs. Ben and Drew are finished. Now let's send Brady to join them at the retirement home.

656 is a shortie. Long hoods came out in 67. Looks like @WHX24 prolly has one. Guys with the used hoods Check the inside of the hood where the front and top panels are welded. Lots of hidden rust happens there.

I like the ratrod look myself but every once in a while i end up painting something. I did one years ago and spot welded repair strips on the back of butt joints in the panels. Then drilled and stitched together using copper wire and barbed wire depending on the panel

How to lose weight. Build yourself a heated garage. Buy 18 lawnmowers 3 tractors 4 motors You won't have time to eat, nor will you care. Last year in March, I was 220#. Now 175#.

Craig,I’m getting the feeling that you are doing that at work and not at home? I hope the taxpayers are not paying for this!!😂😂

I PUT A 10 H/P DIESEL IN MY 417-8AND HAD MORE POWER THAN I EVER NEEDED. HIS BUILD IS JUST A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY.