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My wife went food shopping and found this on one of the shelves at Woodman's. This is a #1 batch for this year.

like stated above a grader blade just works better for leveling. I used mine this fall to level out some gravel piles for a friend of mine. I kept taking swipes at the side of the piles to break them down. Finished product.

Did it rain last night?

I know you're not all that far from Scotland. If that's a Nessie monster's head you may wanna call someone.

Pullstart made an unexpected stop at my house this morning. Kevin ended up taking the bottle home with him. Since Chris only bought me one, I am going to make the trek this week to replace it. I do like the Black label over the Green.

Here’s my take on it. I had this front hitch that I really never used so I just welded some round bar to it and put a plate on the frame. It’s very simple to install and it has worked well so far.

With wheels in front of and behind the blade it will cut an average of the two heights thus leveling the surface.

Amen to that brotha! I've got one good friend who has no tools of his own to speak of. Wants to always borrow mine. I no longer loan out my tools if it means they are not on my premises so I tell him he can come over and USE my tools and garage/shop. Then it starts... I realize he's going to have to camp out because an hour job will take him six. "How do I do this?" etc etc... and like you, I end up doing it for him. But I really don't mind, he's not a 'one way mother#^%$*&' Last time I helped him I got a nice 27" flat screen TV that he pulled off a trash pile and repaired. It's a damn nice TV! Perfect for the shop. Now he has something to watch other than me fix his car! Maybe he'll bring a nice recliner chair next?

It's kinda like we have to act like grown ups now, so instead of playing with tonka and ertl road graders and making a mess in the backyard and the neighbors looking at you weird. You can use one these instead

I took @cleat's idea and that from the xi models and made one for my 520s. Post #30 for the blueprints.

This is my take on the frontbend stabiliser. It fits in the front attachamatic bracket so it can pivot. The mounting on the plow frame is also a pivot point so that the shaft can slide easily up and down with no binding. Works really well and looks pretty good too with plenty of range of movement so I can put a scraper blade on which is much lower than a plow. Mick

And 1 tractor for pulling the kids around... never mind the plow! Peruse facebook, or Craigslist for cheap tractors... this one I got (minus the plow, seat, chains..) just tractor... for $100

Wheel Horse didn't sell too many of the grader blades as compared to the dozer blades. Most people don't have a need for one so with a limited supply out there the price tends to be a lot higher. I seldom use the mid mount blade I have but it is so handy that I won't consider being without one.

I got in an order yesterday for the stud kit for the rear hubs on my 414-8. I installed them today and they are worth every $$$ I spent on them when I mounted my fluid filled tires.. While I was at it I rewired the headlights and installed new headlights. The headlights were in my Dad's building and he got them in the early 1980's from the local Sear's Catalog store that had an automotive department. They are labeled Polystar Sonic Sealed Lamp and are polycarbonate instead of glass.

To measure the Socks???

I’m afraid not enough Norm.. mouse in my pocket says that bottle didn’t last long and was sold to an anonymous buyer...

Standard rule of thumb I've used for decades. 1 1/2 quarts in the 3 and 4 speeds, 2 quarts in the 6 and 8 speeds. I ignore the angled plug at the back of the case. I've only got one with a dipstick. It's an 8 speed and when I dumped in 2 quarts in a totally drained case it hit exactly on the full mark.

Your wife has been asking you to fix the dripping faucet for several weeks, now look at the mess it has created!

I did not have socks on. but I did have a number of rulers laying around. I even have a digital ruler...with a dead battery.

I did some grading today with my pull behind grader blade, wasn't bad, but i could have been better, because the blade moves in dependable from the Horse, i don't always have a perfect horizontal "pass" to put it in those words.I hope it makes sens what i am trying to explain (Non native English speaker srry)

I also have drilled 1/8" holes every inch along the height of my stabilizer rod. When I am plowing snow on the stone road, I set the blade about 1" off the stones using a washer and hairpin clip to set the minimum height so I don't roll up the stones and push them off the road into the grass. When plowing paved surfaces, I just move the pin to the bottom hole so the blade will scrape.

Some pictures of the welds would be helpful. Did they weld the hubs on both sides? If not, you should be able to carefully grind down the welds to be able to break loose the hubs. Here is a good idea. You only have to break loose or destroy 1 hub...the left one. If you can grind down the weld and break loose the left hub, you can split the transmission. Once open, you can take out all of the gears except the differential. You can then unbolt the differential itself and dismantle it. Once you remove the "C" clip on the right side axle you can remove that axle. Now you can replace both seals. You can either re-install the right axle with the hub...remove the hub or replace the axles and hubs. I would not mess around trying to stop the leaking seals, or run the transmission without the right amount of oil...you could do more harm. Get in touch with @Skipper to see if he might have any hubs or axles for your horse...if you end up needing them. If you can break loose and remove the hubs, you can clean up the axles and R & R the seals without removing and opening the transmission.

Here's mine.

It’s been 12 hours. Is it painted up yet? Assembly tonight?

Not deep enough for Nessie. That's one of the resident moor hens. I think/hope.

Get on the Black Horse. Mount the javelin/joust. Go drive thru it about 37 times yelling "Wehee, woohoo, Wehee, woohoo!!" That's what I'd do.....

Everything looks like my '68 Charger 12, except the S/G. Mine has the gear drive starter and internal alternator.

Not to bad for 30min worth of dismantling.

I have the opportunity to purchase the tractor below. It’s a 12 hp auto that looks to me to be from the late 60s but there is no tag on the engine or the chassis for some reason. I think it might be a 68 charger 12 but I’m really not sure. Your expert advice would be much appreciated. If I get it I would probably just clean it up and put some new decals on it but I’d like to get the right decals.Thanks in advance for your input.

Once it starts to solidify you can flip it so the drip goes down the handle away from the top. That way you don't end up with a dimple at the top from the drip. The stuff can easily be cut and removed wherever you want at the bottom so don't worry about any dripping down the handle or dipping too far. If you want to add a ridge to the bottom edge so it's not just a flat cut off edge when you're done, use a small rubber band after a few dips to make a ridge and dip once or twice more. Cut off right below the rubber band. Too many dips after placing the band will make it feather and not leave it as defined of and edge. Not the end of the world if you don't like how it turns out as the whole thing will basically peel right off. It's kinda like liquid shrink tube, it just dries and shrinks but doesn't stick like crazy. Smells the same as that liquid electrical tape stuff and can be used like shrink tube too.

Pants?? Musta been COLD

I saw @stevasaurus today! He even had pants and shoes on! Socks were questionable though...

Maxwell, the # 100863 is the new Wheel Horse part number for that seal. It equates to SKF # 9815.

My mother is into the genealogy pretty deep. She has made it back to the year 935 and still at it

John old buddy old pal. It's possible certain members of this forum may have a slight tendency to go off track every once in a great while.... Or.... Pretty much on nearly every single thread.....

Looks like there's a promising market for reproduction hubs, these would be easy to cast but there is a another soloution. These hubs come in all sizes and have the set screw drilled and threaded with the key way cut in, generally used to weld on a gear but why not a wheel blank instead. As a bonus you could create any bolt pattern for a custom wheel fitment. A shop with a laser could cut the blanks with the holes etc in for threading, the shop that cut out the parts for my oil still did a fantastic job.

Hahahha fur sure black, buuhh green, who wants that colour hahaha

3 things i never lend to nobody: 3) my wife 2) my underwear 1) my tools!

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/for-sale/ You SHOULD be able to get the best deal here on RedSquare, from another member, on the particular model and implements you're looking for. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/

Even though I built it, I still took a couple of pictures during disassembly. Lucky there aren't many nuts. I did more drilling and tapping on this build then any other ever.

Typically when people come over to borrow the hoist, etc... it ends up me doing brakes, ball joints, and the like. I imagine “c’mon over and use the tire changer” means “I’ve got an extra seat by the wood stove so we can watch her do her magic”...

A front mounted push blade helps spread out large lumps of dirt or moves snow out of the way. If you hit a rock with a mid mount no worries because if the front axle will clear it chances are the tractor will push it,unless the rock is half buried With gps guided blades, dozers now can do a good job of pushing to a finished grade. Graders with mid mount blades do not need to have a satellite to grade to a level finish.

I don't think tractors have emotions, they just seem to like to test your patience

His address is: Skool, Old 1313 Cool Stuff lane Wickidd Fahh Nawth, Maine 0U812

Got the brakes all rebuilt and assembled the rear half of the tractor. Now on to the front axle, dash tower and levers. Then the front axle and engine and sheet metal / fiberglass hood.

Here's a thread that shows the measurements and some close-ups if maybe you wanted to get one built yourself.

Makes me want one seeing this well anyway I’ll be posting a wanted ad now haha

Disassembly is the easy part. Re-assembly is the hard stuff. Trying to find that nut that fell or remember where that dang 9/16" socket went

That sounds a bit frightening,glad to hear you were ok Ed. I like the 417 with the front hitch with the rear Kwik-Way weight box loaded up for moving trailers around when needed.