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Thought I'd share how I free up a frozen cable. Clamp the wire end in a vice. Hold the knob end from turning. Turn the sheath with a wrench working back and forth slowly until the entire sheath turns on the wire. If there is a Z hook, cut it off. Pull the wire out and sand until it is smooth. Install the wire in the sheath and work oil in till the entire inside length is coated. Rebend the Z hook. Works better than a new one.

There are many reasons to name a Few The person at TORO who decided to block the airflow on the back cylinder Under the Motor Tins should have had his head examined. As you all know the 520H has a long history of the valves going on the rear Cylinder. Remote mounting the Oil Filter takes care of that Plus the remote oil filter bracket lets you install a larger filter to protect your engine. I have in my possession Several of these filter adapters that have worked excellent the past 10 years on My Snow Chucker and I have a Digital Oil Pressure Setup. Works Great. HERES SOM OLE Pics when I Did mine. Also alot of heat can be taken away from getting the exhaust out from under the hood on the right rear side. That is, if you don't like Roasted wiring! The other thing servicing is much easier among other things.

That is an incredibly easy fix. On my tractors that are running the stock headlights I drilled a hole in the head light bucket & ran a ground wire to it. This way I was not relying on the hood hinge to create a ground.

You could also use a terminal block if you wanted to run individual ground wires. That way it's neat and you don't have a bunch of wires connected to your battery - terminal. One ground from battery to terminal block and everything gets grounded there.

I got some wood with mine

Hello, My first Wheel Horse project and new to this form. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I purchased older farm house and this gem was negotiated as part of the deal. I believe I have a ~1962/1963 Rounded hood Wheel Horse with Tecumseh engine. Can anyone determine the model / Year? Got this running with new carbonator and basic tune-up, but now not getting any spark. I am not sure how the points/elec ignition is supposed to work but not getting any voltage reading (.02V) when cranking. Fuse is good, but not sure about resister/capacitors. Seems like maybe coil within flywheel could bad, but not sure how to get the fly wheel off to check this further. Anyone have seen similar issue that would help me troubleshoot further? I'm thinking of putting in a replacement engine if anyone could send me info related to what would work for a replacement? Serial Number below dash is 62-12492 There are two tags on the engine Tag above starter (SBH-169C 4313F) Tag on front of engine (SBH-169B 2133F) Thanks Dan

Yep, terminal blocks on positive and negative. Makes it easy to add aux lights, bells and whistles to the snow machines.

They should have installed the remote oil filter on the engine to prevent the problems from happening. ALL IT TAKES FOR EVIL TO TRIUMPH IS FOR GOOD MEN TO DO NOTHING.

I mentioned in another post, that I would like to find Tecumseh tool #670241. After some googling, and checking ebay, it seems none are to be had. Well, if you can't take Mohamed to the mountain, you bring the mountain to Mohamed. I thought I could make one, so I did. I started out with one of these,And one of these. The second item is an adapter I got with my compression tester years ago. I have never used it, it's just been rolling around in the top of my tool box. Along with some other bits and pieces I ended up with one of these.For those curious minds out there that little tip in the end of a dial indicator is M2 X .04 I believe. Try finding on of those at your local farm and home store. Not here! The only option I had was to drill the end on the stem of the dial indicator, and tap a 4-40 thread. It takes time and some patience. Not something you do with a crescent wrench, but it can be done. The little bent tab on the bottom is just a piece of a metal electrical box cover. Each end was drilled and tapped 4-40, and bent slightly.The adapter from the compression tester had to be drilled out to accommodate the dial indicator. I also ground each side a bit to accept a 1/2" wrench. The phillips head 6-32 screw was tapped into the side to lock the indicator in place. The indicator can be slid up and down for rough in adjustment. The 9/16 locking collar with the set screw was added to prevent the adapter from screwing too far into the head. Of course when I was all done I had to try it out, so I reassembled the H70 a bit. Put the piston in with rings, bolted the rod to the crank, and installed the sump cover. Nothing is brought to torque spec, just snugged down to keep everything in place. That's when I discovered I needed the bend in the little tab. Otherwise the indicator would bottom out on the block, before reaching .080 BTDC. The video is a bit jerky, I am trying to hold my phone with one hand, and turn the motor with the other. The video loaded twice for some reason, and didn't seem to want to play,so I deleted it, and will load it again in a new post.

I'm in the process of repairing the headlamps on Trina's 867. We will also be adding some auxiliary lights for improved night vision, front and rear. @WHX24 Jim mentioned in another thread that he had a tractor with questionable ground and I'm a big believer in having a lot of extra ground wires basically for the sake of insurance. I went online to the flea BAY and ordered up some 1156 sockets that have two wires. We were able to clean up the existing sockets in the tractors original headlight bucket but I was curious to see how the ground was going to be attached. Soldered? Riveted? Turns out it's incredibly simple and the ground wire is literally just wrapped around the spring in there. That gives solid positive contact via either the spring or the wire itself touching the casing of the socket. Incredibly easy improvement to do so I thought I'd share it with you folks....

You can trust your mother ... but not your ground

looks like a 552 to me, I love my ‘62’s too! A Kohler K-141 / K-161 or K-181 would be an awesome transplant engine if you can locate one. They are much easier to work on, generally speaking... but I’d try to get that one running for a rundown assessment first..

Tried that on my friends 80 GMC. Forgot to hook up the main ground. Turned the key to start. Well the starter was grounded to the engine, the engine grounded through the bolt on the motor mount to the chassis, and the chassis grounded to the RF fender, and the RF fender to the battery by virtue of the 10 ga. auxilary ground. cable. That 10 ga. wire did not take kindly to about 250 amps trying to make their way back to the battery. It got crowded in there, they started fighting and let the smoke out!

Got a few minutes after work. Rescued a steering wheel from the stables, shortened the steering shaft to put the wheel right at the dash, and whipped up a custom dash panel. The guys are off tomorrow and Friday but I’ll be here answering phones, emails, and on my own clock- tractor time!

That'd work alright!! I do it a bit different (but somewhat similar) I clamp the end in the vise with the cable hanging down and start an application of Kroil drips (or similar) When ever I walk by I give it a pull/twist. Sometimes will work in a few hrs, and sometime several days, but does does the trick.. I bet there are a few other guys have developed of their own method also............

This is why if you have ever looked at a wiring harness on a car, there is usually a direct to the battery ground wire in the harness from every terminal.

Very fortunate Both Trina and I have been To have the great friends Red square, online, and local. All challenges met She and I are doing well. Essential workers Me construction, her healthcare. Sure, life's different NOTHING insurmountable. Folks, keep positive!!

Best bet is to run the ground wire (#6 or larger) directly from the battery "-" terminal to the starter/SG mounting bolt on the engine block.

the onan service manual tell you how to step by step trouble shoot just about everything but maybe stale rotten gas, didn't have much problems back then with gas as we do now lol eric j

Here’s my YouTube channel. Tractor projects, shows we’ve been too, videos from around the farm, and more to come https://youtube.com/channel/UC4x398-0H2_myxrLUbjkxKA

I watch quit a lot of youtube, channels like Kevin Alberts, Ebinmain . but surely other big channels, But I never see anybody using Zinc spray, do you guys have this in the US. I use it all the time, and it's the best product against rust that we can get here by a long shot. It's spraying a thick layer of zinc, sometimes it has alloy in it too. Galvanizing with a can. never ever have rust seen coming true, and i don't always sand properly. It's also very scratch resistance. I always paint the inside of my rims with this stuff.

71 Wheel Horse 800 special 8hp B&S Decided to take a wire wheel to the rust on the rims and paint them a flat black.Not the original ivory white as it should be ,but wanted to try something a little different. Next up ,tie rods for the steering.

Just a thought here but.... Could it possibly be the nut behind the wheel ????

White blanket covers Warm transformation too soon Beautiful instant

Actually that's where it was Jeff... Prolly the orginal filter ('91) now that you say that. I just went on the premise of trying to keep crap out of the pump. I replaced that line and moved the filter behind the pump with a check valve just behind it. BTW I popped the top off the carb and cleaned the bowl best I could on tractor. Kinda a to do with the blower on since the hood can't open all the way. Pump moved fuel fer sure. Clear view filter and cranked plugs out to purge. Not a fuel issue definitely electrical. Most likely not the module either. Sigh of relief here I may not have to pull the tins and flywheel.

I take out a rivet on the stock headlight bucket and install a machine screw and nut with a ring terminal to hook a ground cable to. Nothing like your headlites in strobe mode when you're plowing at night.

I'd go with a buss bar myself for the ground. For the positive I like the marine switch panels, a bit pricy but gives you fuse holders/ switches/ and is hopefully water tolerant.

regularly lubricate anything that has to move / function , I would rather have an oil film/slick than rust any day , pete

I had to run a ground wire from the hood to the frame on Mongo because grounding through the hinge wasn't working very well.

Nice Prentiss vise. 109Lbs. Swiveling rear jaw. Looks like an early one late 1800s. Is there a patent date on the other side?

I use the spray “zinc” coating bought from “screwfix”, a store in the UK that sells building supplies etc.This particular one has an almost chrome like sheen when first applied. The wheels and wheel weights on my C121 were sprayed with this as a quick “touch up” before a show 3 - 4 years ago, no sanding or any prep other than a wash down.They still look ok!

Does this mean 953 nut is going have to start his on this day post again?!?!?

Outstanding submissions gentlemen! Fear not @953 nut and @ebinmaine, the Haiku Police are all on an extended Holiday (with pay of course) and, spoiler alert, will not be returning in the New Year. Alas, it has been fun, but the rigors of a daily Haiku missive have taken their toll. Tomorrow will be the last daily Wheel Horse Haiku...

“Too many ground wires!” Said nobody ever... if you’ve got the time and material, run it

Jonah, I figured being the cool season in FL we had our odds stacked. My goal to break even with camper cost is renting 6 days/month. So far, it’s hit that goal in our first month already! We still need to rent an additional 14 days to pay for our cost to deliver it, but it feels like that’s an easier goal than I figured. Even if it doesn’t pay for itself in full, we can’t use it until about May, so it might as well chip away at the payments while we can’t use it!

I'm pretty sure that's what the old "Barbie Bus" was modeled after. My wife used to have one and that's what we call them when we see them occasionally.

Nice Christmas blanket Enjoyed it while it was here New Years will Rain To wash away 2020, down the drain! I know! I've broken the Haiku rules, or at least bent them a bit. Please forgive me.

Possible ice storm Headed here on Saturday Don't care. I'll plow that.....

BUILD IT YOURSELF! IT WILL BE FUN!

Here's my YouTube. EB stuff. BBT stuff. Meeha/Mirror stuff. Woods. Forestry. Tractors. Hiking. Etc.... https://youtube.com/channel/UCoE6R9_IV0xE7vteRSxtsvg

Thanks Steve. All is good now we are blessed. I would love to be optimistic about the coming year and any chance for normalcy but unfortunately I fear what may be to come. Praying we can have a show this summer. Missing all my wheel horse friends for sure. everyone

That is one of my favorite tractors out there , sad to say though im no longer selling the stack mufflers on ebay , they have made it so the little guys cant sell on there and i refuse to raise the prices to the point of selling on there is profitable , but they will still be for sale here and on some of the facebook sites for tractors , and im keeping the price at $60 , im not going to hurt our hobby by jacking prices to the point that they arent affordable

...MUCH easier to ID in the back of your truck on the way to your garage...

Tecumseh can be a bit picky about spark. But once you get them running they are good engines. Welcome

yeah, impressive stuff! It’s all about gearing with that kind of build

The Onan engine installed by Wheel Horse/TORO is a stock engine and not modified. We can't accuse the tractor builder of poor engineering on this item. I think you will find that the remote oil filter kit was developed for those installations where filter changes would be impossible without it.

I know the feeling I will never be caught up on all this stuff keeps me from getting bored haha

SAVE the Kohlers!

Didn't want to start a new thread because I don't know if I have a new topic...besides this is "What have you done to your Wheel Horse Today" , and this post falls under that... after a few months of tinkering with my 520H and trying to get her up to snuff, I have been taking her out for "test flights" Well today I took her for a spin and this is some video of that... Does it loom like the charging system is overcharging...please tell me what you think. 20201229_155610.mp4