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We have about 7" as of now here in Central Maryland.

IT BROKE

Landed me 2 Walk Away's today. 1 complete with continuous one piece handle and 6-12 wheels, Clinton Engine. The second one is just the Pond gearbox, Hubs, frame and also one piece handlebars. The Clinton engine tag shows it to be a B704. I have been checking the web for year. Found Clinton site but no direct hint for year. So any of you have any idea how to determine the year of this Walk Away? I know the engine can give me an idea. I have the Walk Away manual download but know it is a 54, which shows the two piece handlebars. So does mine indicate they could be the early ones from 48-50?

Here is a snowy view of the wife’s shed with my poor Rjs in the cold. What the heck at least she is happy .

Don't go out on the roads until after all of the bald tire people are done crashing their cars or getting stuck in the intersections on the way to the tire store. Nothing gets them motivated like a deep snow event!

You think a crack that started very long ago? I'd scrap it! When will you haul to the street? And your address again?

They are keeping your snowplow attached to the tractor at the moment.

Love the look of the all black wheel horse

So that’s where all them missing ballots are stuffed... put in the wrong mail box and they’ve been on the other side of the pond this whole time...!

Here is a live feed camera from Altoona, Pa. It's already snowing. Altoona is about 50-60 miles west of where the Big Show is held.

Well I’m ready, just need to add a bit-o-gas in the tank of this RJ and hang the plow

This is from the last storm. Should be much easier tomorrow although SUPER COLD.

But you have to let it dry. Also works great for saw blades and hole saws!!!!! We drill 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 inch holes everyday through the rim joists of houses. Used to use a big 110v mixer drill because it had the power to brute through without stopping but it could throw someone to the ground if it catches. Some of those old houses used timbers so some holes can be as deep as 10-12 inches thick. Started spraying the hole saws with snow jet and now we drill them all using just a cordless drill plus it takes half the time. Works great for any other saw blades too! Keeps'm cool and slick so they cut faster. Probably rust protected too. I found some expensive saw blade stuff online at $28-$35 a can but thought about using the snow jet stuff instead since I had some in the shed anyway for the blower, had nothing to loose. I'll never use a hole saw again without it now, it made that much of a difference! We even use some old hole saws now that were retired because they got slow with the big drill and thought they were dull. Good thing I never got around to throwing them out. The snow Jet runs about $10 a can but now saves $50 - $60 in new hole saws per spray can use. It actually works better for the hole saw cutting thing then it does for keeping snow from sticking to the blower. LoL

This view might be better. Strasburg, Pa.

That's an MF tool box. Have one on each of my tractors. Various things like hitch pins etc pertaining to each tractor and what it's used for.

Most Wheel Horse axles have needle bearings running right on the axles. The bearing area is induction hardened and the remainder is left soft. My thought is that the transition point is right where the failure occurred and the metal may be brittle there. Years ago, Wheel Horse included axles that were completely heat treated for use with dual rear wheels. I don't know the type of steel used with any of the axles.

Hey folks! We have some really good deals on parts to repair or rebuild your Onan powered Horse on sale now. We have a special discount offer if you are a Wheelhorseforum/Red Square supporter! This just happens to be our favorite Tractor forum! And Wheelhorse's happen to be our favorite tractors! So, if you are a Red Square supporter, PM me for a discount code good for 10% off anything. Including sale items. Not a supporter? Please consider donating here and becoming a site supporter! Supporting this great site gets you the discount code! Any support level qualifies. As a supporter you can bust up some light bulbs too! But you have to be a supporter to find the bulbs.....Don't be slow, sale ends this Friday night! To donate go here:https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! This deal is from us, onanparts, and not in any partnership with the forum owner, anyone named John, Paul, George, Ringo or Howdy Doody.....:)

I tried my hand at making pastys yesterday. Everything from scratch, including the pastry - my first attempt at it. Not quite perfect, but pretty darn close. Will make adjustments in the next batch.

Had some experience with these hand held drill starters. Things get pretty knarly when the engine fires and you can't get the starter disengaged.

So far we have only had a couple dusting and nothing stuck to the ground so I had to go to the vault an pull out an oldy-but-goody.

There ain't enough $natch straps on the planet.

Envious of someone having to go out in the cold? Something's not right with this guy I've never had enough snow to plow. If we get much more than 1/2" of snow, school is cancelled for a week, and everyone stays home from work

Here's a surefire method to keep snow from sticking anywhere, Live in Central Texas, Now that I've said that, we'll have the once in a 100 year blizzard!

Set up the 417-8 for Winter duty. This is a first for this machine other than trail rides in Winter. This plow has not been used in 18 years and was tired of looking at it and decided to repaint the front of the blade and cutting edge this past Summer. We shall see how it does for cleanup after this storm.

if this had a hitch... that would might be the best Travelin’ Horse Hauler ever!

Hey Scott... @Greentored... prepare to have @8ntruckBill analyze your axles soon!

My plastic shed has been up going on 7 yrs now. Most likely get a new one next year as it is starting to tear along the zipper. I reinforced the roof to hold the snow. Worth every penny I say.

Pulled the #26 carb off the hopped up K321 on Hoss, took a new #30, smoothed out the back side of the venturi, thinned the throttle and choke shafts, notched the fuel nozzle, finally stepped back and said "dude, enough is enough, it's a garden tractor" and threw it on for a trail test. It actually 'puts you back on the seat' to the point of needing to hang onto the wheel now when accelerating in high gear from idle Strange issue that carried over from the stock #26- no response from the idle mixture screw. I can turn it all the way in and it still has a 'thump-a-thump-a', rich sounding idle. I even drilled a .100 hole in the butterfly, allowing me to close it further while maintaining idle, exposing less of the idle circuit holes. I even loosened the carb bolts, making a big vacuum leak and using the mixture screw to richen it up- to no avail. Between the experimental cam grinding and big intake valve it has caused some strange carb 'signaling' and a very distinct idle, but it responds great, doesn't blow black smoke, and has an insane amount of grunt. Gonna chalk it up to 'thats what it likes' and leave it alone.

No it just turned out to be a fair deal. A collector of mostly ag tractors, some WH. Fits in nicely with my collection, I can now show the beginning and how WH progressed all the way to 2004. 315-8 last model made.

right rear axle on my GT-14 let lose! My presumption was that the snap ring had broken allowing the axle to come out. I finally got around to tearing into it and this is what I found. Fortunately there was no other damage done and I will be replacing bearing and seals to freshen it up GT-14 was owned by a landscaping company and used with a front end loader and landscape rake for about forty years prior to the time I bought it. It has a limited slip differential, wheel weights and loaded tires, it hasn't been pampered. Since the failure took place in the differential housing I don't think weight was an issue, just torque and metal fatigue. Here is another picture of the pieces.

I'm in the process now of checking the list, and checking it twice, seeing who is naughty or nice. As for world peace, a lot of these world leaders are on the naughty list - and they may not come off that list for quite a while. BTW, a lot of Hollywood types and athletes (is there a difference nowadays) are on the naughty list and aren't likely to come off of it either. Looking over this thread here, I can accommodate a lot these wishes. We'll see if you are on the "nice" list though. Merry Christmas!!!! HO! HO! HO!

Last couple years we haven’t had much snow. But the storm forecasted for tonight into tomorrow is predicted to drop more snow than we got the entire 2019-2010 winter. I live to the right of the white box that says “12-20”. Can you say SEAT TIME!

Just a thought could you put a spacer under the two mounts that the tachomatic bolts to under the axle and give you another 1/4 in clearance

I took your advice. The ammeter had so much corrosion that it caused a voltage drop from 12.6 down to 8.5 or so. After going around that, the starter curcuit out of a brand new ignition switch still did not have the onions to trigger consistently the solenoid, so I wired the solenoid trigger directly to the start circuit . Now the start position on the key works. We still had some cleaning to do, so the gas tank is not mounted, but now I am understanding that too many of the bakelite fittings and safety switches are just too unstable to work. If I decide they are important, it is time for a new wiring harness for the C-160.

There is a man that knows how to treat his tractors nicely with fluffy mats under their sore feet. Mine are now jealous.

Make sure you search for the spot light variety. Most of what is out there that isn't an arm and a led are flood lights. Although bright, the beams don't reach out far enough. I learned the expensive way! My plow tractor is the only one of my rigs that doesn't have LEDs yet. I know many wont want to hear this, but I am a bit envious of the plowing! I am sitting here waiting with two rigs ready to go!

Plowed twice so far today. Two 4 inchers and its still coming down as fast as I clear it. Next outing in the AM. This was yesterday pre-snow.

One eyed tractor????

The gas cap should have some type of baffle in it. And not be just a hole in the metal cap for the gas to escape when sloshing around. The vent hole in the baffle should be offset to the vent hole in the cap. The gas will have a difficult time getting from under the hole in the baffle to exiting up through the vent hole in the gas cap. Some caps used a paper gasket type of baffle, some were cork and modern caps are plastic with offset holes for the vent

Lots of different caps My lawn ranger has an inner cap that is pitched to keep any gas that get splashed up to run back down.Dont't know about yours but simple test blow into the vent hole

Looks like its big enough for 3 handfuls of ice and a couple of beverages 🤣🤣

Fluid Film is excellent for lubricating the exposed moving parts of snowblowers, snowplows, and mower decks.

My guess is that because fixed length track rods were fitted there is no need to adjust them from the dimension set by the factory. True that toe in or out affects cornering but not in this low speed application not noticeable. The castor angle is the determining factor in the wheels self centring but this is set by the axle geometry and is not adjustable as is the king pin inclination. Blimey this is dredging up memories from college when I did my vehicle engineering qualifications nearly 40 years ago. I will be checking the Ackerman angles next lol Looks like it has power steering now with the chrome push rods.

Here is the collective wisdom and/or opinions of many of our members on this subject.

My Town forecast 6" Will it be 1" or 16"? Only time will tell.....

Dang forum ate up my first reply! Questions: Did these two parts used to fit together? These are out of a Wheel Horse manual transmission? Did the tractor these were out of see snow plow duty? Was the tractor used for pulling? Is this a common failure for these components? Initial analysis from picture: The surface marks suggest multiple fatigue cracks started in the bottom of the axle splines grew together until they joined and caused axle failure. The marks suggest that the primary load on the axle was torsional. The fatigue crack initiation sights are not clear in the pictures. I'll guess that the gear might have beaten or worn a notch into the axle spline, which created places for cracks to start. Off chance there might have been a machining or heat treat defect involved as well. Careless clutch engagement, frequent reversing, stick/slip of tires on snowy pavement, jerking on a rope or chain, or heavy load could produce axle loads contributing to a failure of this type. I need to add a definition here. Fatigue crack - a crack resulting from repeated application of a load smaller than a load that will bend the part. Examples of parts that see loads that cause fatigue cracks - connecting rods, wheels, axles, engine valves, springs, crankshaft, rocker arms. This is basically a guess based on the picture. More can be learned from direct inspection of the parts.

Before Norman... I was bidding on stick shift Cummins powered farm (ex-school) busses! I was going to shorten one and pop our old suburban on top!

My advise if you want something that long , buy a school bus.