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Anyone ever see one of these? Looks like an Italian version of a Steiner/Ventrac. This is like one I saw on FB marketplace except the one on FB had a loader. Looks like you could drop it off a cliff and it would still run.

Weight the endless quest We want it off our bodies And on our tractors

Heres some from a fun trip! New York to Nebraska...

I thought this is a cool little backhoe for not being your typical Kubota or other brand scut. They have it for 5000 which isn't too bad considering used Terramites seem to go for 8000 and up.

Well, it was basically a guess. But since you asked..... I know that 4.33 psi is equal to 10' H2O because my brain is full of that sort of useless (usually) crap. I also know that water weighs 8.3 lbs/gallon and gas weighs 6 lbs/gallon, so a column of gas would have to be 38% taller than a column of water to generate the same pressure. That means a column of gas at 4.33 psi would be 13.8 feet tall. If the pressure was dropped to 4 psi instead of 4.33 psi we would have 12.7 feet. The tank currently sits higher than the carb, so we can deduct a little from that measurement and get the length of the pole down to about 12 feet. I think I remember seeing that fuel pressure from 2.5-4 psi was acceptable, do dropping the length to 10 feet for a nice round number seemed reasonable.

this guy from Poland is a very experienced MOG DRIVER , NOTE HIS GO TO CENTER WINCH OPERATOIN , NOT THAT HE HAS ENOUGH DRAG WEIGHT ON IT , no screaming engine , just gearing operation experience , pete

I've got the same setup as Bronc on a tractor and it works great. I used a rubber bumper on the tab the rests under the tranny for noise and movement.

This is the back-end of my Commando 8 I picked up about a year and a half ago. It shows the slot hitch and the draw-bar assembled on the case (same as yours). I swapped in a 6-speed with a limited slip differential, and put the same drawbar / slot hitch combo back on it, as the cases were pretty much the same. I had a problem with my old pin coming out of the 3-speed, so I bought a new one from "Wheel Horse Parts And More", for when I assembled it onto the 6-speed. My drawbar does have a little bit of up-and-down play, but I dont think it is an inch like you said. Worst case, you may be able to adjust the "tongue" that goes under the case, and bend it up a little to reduce the movement.

Tom @Shynon rigged up a pair of very bright led head lights on his 1054 plow tractor that he can make flash. Not sure if they would be legal on a road tho? Might have to check first. He had them flashing on the plow field and I thought the cops were after me!

I added a cigarette lighter and put on a magnetic amber strobe with an in-line switch... works like a charm.

Headed for the show in June of 18

What’s the use of life if you ain’t livin’?

It has been over a decade since I've had a truck, but I think my Crown Victoria fills that roll just fine for wrangling up some horses. To this day people still act amazed I pull a trailer with it, but something about a fully boxed frame, rear wheel drive, V8, and twin-piston brakes up front... more truck-like than people think. If that doesn't get people, I also have a Focus with a 3-cylinder engine I have hauled a few home with.... albeit slowly.

I understand these are very hard to get. I ordered mine last night and now have a confirmation email. I heard some guys were canceled as many a three times, never to get one. Keeping my fingers crossed. Good luck to all who wants one

Yes, that is an Allis-Chalmers 616, 620, or 720. Simplicity Powermax 4041 and 9020 would be the same. (Simplicity had the grey or white hood depending on year) They are very good tractors that were built very heavy duty. Allis-Chalmers or Simplicity is the only other brand that I will own besides Wheel Horse.

Load it up and hit the road.

They say essential oils are good for the skin!

I had the luxury to drive a Uni Mog… It was amazing.... Neighbor still has it, lives down the road about 5 mins. away... BEAST.....only word to describe it, the gear reduction cannot be understood until you get it and drive it.. In Low 1, Low Transfer, and Low in the split rear.....it would walk up a tree if it had too. Speed was .18 MPH in that setting. not 18 MPH...… .18 !!! The Cab is so user friendly once you figure it out. Amazing vehicle German Engineering===Always over built to the extreme

Lake Okeechobee........ if I was still in Florida I would come visit. Be sure to look up Rodney Burger while you down there. He has LOTS of stuff hoarded up down there by now. 👍 Have a safe trip.

Too bad Thanksgiving Doesn’t make my tractor’s butt Any heavier.

Never had a bug fly into an engine. They always show up when there is fresh paint though

A drawbar hitch would fix that...

Man!!! I can't believe you called him that!

Got it running and took it for a night time drive around the backyard. Something's not right in the linkage. I can't engage the park brake. Carb needs a rebuild which isn't a huge surprise. I don't think I've done that one yet. Here's a short video.

ld take any tractor someone would give to me whether id keep it is another story.

Hauled many a WH tractor around in this snowmobile trailer. This pic was taken when I brought the 86 417-8 home. First thing was to try it out then removed the RD deck, washed and waxed both and stored the deck.

Use the same carb and just bypass the fuel pump to go gravity feed. Route the fuel line directly to the carb. Remove the pump and cover the hole with a plate and a gasket.

Tell that to these canaries.... course look what they were trying to get unstuck with probably a 50 YO cable. Just tie her to the plow Mike! After that fiasco it was a speed run to the hardware store for cable and clamps as no one had a spare Wheel Horse Parts and More cable. The hardware store stuff was no substitute for Lowell's guaranteed ones. This was at plow day 2017...subsequent years there is always one of his cables and the tools needed to change it out in the service tub. We sure did have fun jury rigging tho didn't we Tom! @Shynon

Like @WHX24 stated above, I add a rubber bumper to my drawbar hitch where it makes contact with the transmission to get rid of the up & down movement.. I drill & tap a hole on the hitch to add a bumper like the one listed below. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/fasteners/vibration-isolators/isolators-machine-leveling/vibration-shock-absorption-mount-threaded-stud-100-inch-dia-50-inch-h-1-4-20-thread?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiramqZ6y7QIV0z2tBh2ScAhWEAQYByABEgJz1PD_BwE Most of the time the rubber is too thick. To remedy this I chuck the threaded end in a drill. Then I oil up a razor blade for easier cutting. Spin the bumper with the drill & slice through the rubber to get it down to the size that you need. I use this method to trim bumpers quite often & it works very well.

Unimogs are probably one of the greatest if not THE greatest 4x4s of all time. I remember seeing them with Case construction colors and badging too. I'm glad you enjoyed the post.

Aware of them. They made 2 wheel walk behinds too. I think they're popular in the hilly Italian vineyards but I'm pretty sure it would be a hit in my backyard.

@Crmaverick I've been in the trucking and transportation industry along with running forklifts and cranes for quite a while now. The A#1 consideration in this industry is safety. ABOVE ALL ELSE. I learned to say in quite a long time ago and I've repeated it more times than I can count: "if you have to think about it at all, you've already thought about it too long. You shouldn't do it." How you use your tractor and what you do for a hitch is obviously your own discretion and we can just give you the best advice possible. The fact that you're putting consideration into buying a hitch that is more stable instead of stabilizing the load and the trailer is fundamentally incorrect. I'm not trying to preach. I'm not trying to tell you what to do. The fact of the matter is that what you are doing is, in the laws of physics and gravity, incorrect. You should NEVER EVER have the trailer tongue lift UP. Movable hitch or not ..... If you stay with the hitch that you have and use it as gravity intended it will be perfectly fine.

I called the shop this morning. $219 for the exact same pump, $269 for one with double the bearings and more seals for longer life. Both lifetime warranty. Funny thing, he said the 4g or g4 or whatever better one was WAY better and should expect a good 8-10 years lifespan. But it’s the best and it’s lifetime warranty?!? I opted for the better. This doesn’t get driven in snow and salt, plus I opted to mount it inboard of the frame to get out of direct path from the front tire in rain, rocks, etc. It’ll arrive Monday... we’re supposed to have our camper to Lake Okeechobee by Thursday. I’m not going to stress on it. We’ll see how it all works out!

I prefer 15W40 but either is greatly preferred over 80W90 gear oil.

I used an adjustable speed LED Motorcycle flasher on the taillights, you can set any speed you want. Mine are set up as a strobe light, https://www.wish.com/product/5784bb2f3ae7107d1256562e?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=US&_force_currency_code=USD&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=5784bb2f3ae7107d1256562e&ad_cc=US&ad_lang=EN&ad_curr=USD&ad_price=2.80&campaign_id=7203534630&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WFG755GIg-oGCEtMtdGheb-OtOT6kjoOyeOH1dm85RY0twHSjq_QtoaAhVfEALw_wcB&share=web

Using a glass Gallo Wine jug to buy gas for the lawn mower!

Afriend was assembling a small block Chevy at night. The distributer was not yet installed. A June bug came along, circled the trouble light three times, then flew down the hole in the intake manifold for the distributed. They found the bug in the oil pump intake.

Fun thread so I think I'll join in! Had to post a pic of one of my multicolor "off brand" loads too lol In the pic of all the horses two of them I don't have anymore and I haven't replaced them with any more horses! What wrong with me!

Nothing makes the wife happier than when you bring home not just 1, but 2 tractors at the same time!

I don't have a truck and I don't have a trailer ...... but I get by.

I just did a leakdown test on an ACR Kohler a couple months ago. I rolled the crankshaft a couple degrees past TDC and locked it down, worked great.

Slow going, finding the perfect U joint for up front wasn’t easy. And waiting for upper bearings to show up yet. IMG_8427.MOV

In the past I've put some oil or fluid in the filter, topped off the drive unit, start it up and run the unit with pump engaged for a few minutes, recheck the levels and go for a ride. The hydro units seem to purge them self's and don't need to be bled. I've never had any problems with them getting air bound.

Hmm... I think there is something missing from that thing.... Excited to see what it turns out like. Planning on a return-to-stock rebuild? Or an upgraded worker?

Wow! Crazy performance in the MUD! No one around here would do that even with their huge skidder! Not saying they couldn't but no one would want the mud/grit covered logs! Hard to believe this job could not wait for frozen ground.. But I'm glad they didn't wait and that someone videoed this. Nice machine!

A light, fruity bouquet, with just a hint of carbon...

I do that too. I've dropped enough stuff in the wrong places sometimes I get overly paranoid about it. I tape up all open holes

Thanks Dennis, but i didn‘t feel Guilty at all. 😂 Because i didn‘t blame the tool at all, It is a selfmade system with several parts, so i have to find out if all is work together as i expecting, but there such a lot‘s of unknown in this equation it‘s a test about an idea i have. So i go allway‘s the way and look for things they had to be improved. When i start such selfmade solutions i tried with what i had allready on site or in stock, Even i don’t like to start such experiments with a „hellfire“ that’s the reason i guessed it may be the weak Airpressure. It‘s not the end of the Story.

I rebuild them and I currently have none in the shop. Typically a 10 day turnaround. k161, K181, K241, K301, K321 and K341 cast iron kohler engine for 275.00 plus parts and machine work if required. In most cases cylinder will be bored, crank will be ground, valve seats ground or reconditioned. New piston, new rings, new rod, valves new or reconditioned, all new seals and gaskets. In some cases valve guides and bearings are replaced. Entire engine brought back to factory spec. I no longer do performance/pulling engines or twins. Once rebuilt, and properly maintained, it will give you another 30-40 years of service. I don't cut corners, I take my time and get it right. 40 plus years of working on and rebuilding k series engines.