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A Wheel Horse Addiction Sonnet, as requested: Ah, the Wheel Horse, red as red should it be I think I want a worker, no dear me Perhaps a show queen, polished all the time but, patina is also quite sublime Can't decide, rattle can spray, oh dear me Powder coat, automotive, leave it be Rust, PB Blaster and a faded red Eyes dance with glee 'til no spark rears its head Off with its head carburetor and more Clean clean clean its an underrated chore No parts are in sight not nary a one Yet even the junkyards are searched for fun Sigh... just get on Red Square and ask away And search the want adds for another day

Hi Guys, just thought I'd share my most recent addition to our WH collection. We went down to the Portland show 3 weeks ago and happened to find this little guy in the swap meet. Having a 1957 already, I looked at it and tried putting it out of my mind thinking we really didn't need another 1957. But after some peer-pressure that night and having dreams about RJ35's that night, I went back in the morning and it was still there waiting for me so it must have been a sign from God. In my opinion, it's really nice example of an original 1957 and even has the optional brake, besides the hard to find parts, down to the original hitch pin I've never seen before! It's amazing to me that it stayed with the tractor after so many years. It presumably didn't see a whole lot of work as it has the tightest steering that I've ever felt on an RJ. I'll just keep my eyes open for an original belt guard; but no hurry. Anyway, here are a few pictures of it after getting home, cleaning it it up and giving it a boiled lindeed oil rub-down. I'm proud to have this one in our collection.

We may all be nuts here, but we're in good company.

... when I walk into my garage and see my WH, the sides of my mouth automatically curve upwards. Do any of you guys have these weird symptoms? I'm new here, help me out!

Keep this up... we'll expect a new W-H poem everyday Silvia!

This Wheel Horse addiction, it can't arf spread. It crossed o'er t' Atlantic and into me 'ead. I started wi' one, but soon tha waz more. Aht int' workshop, tha now is four. Eight horse power, ten and twa twelves. Parts ont' bench and more ont' shelves. I really divan't know, where all this wi' end. She Who Must Be Obeyed, say I'm round t'bend. But do I worry? No! Not one jot. I'm quite 'appy, wi' 'orses I got.

Just another common symptom of the dreaded WHA.

So I did some high quality editing on something I saw the other day, and I feel like this is the right post to debut it. It's an addiction, but it's one the vast majority of us are better for having

You'll meet the nicest people riding a Wheel-Horse tractor!

I do mine in Spring and Fall. Never get to 25 hours but for 15 minutes and $10 it’s great insurance... I also drain the old oil when it’s very hot...

Just means you need a new one to rescue. After banging your knuckles a few times, the smile will fade. However, it will eventually return when the project nears completion. At that point, you start the whole process over.

I have a 1967 wheel horse 1277 and I was wondering if anyone could help me locate manuals or tell me exactly how rare this thing is. I’ve had people tell me that it’s really rare and others tell me it’s common so I have no idea. I got it off of a trade for a c-81. It’s fully functional and someone installed headlights.

OK OK OK OK OK Hello everyone. My name is Eric. I live in Maine. I have an addiction to using, maintaining, restoring, and collecting Wheelhorse tractors.

I don't know what to say!!!

You guys are all nuts here...

A Wheel Horse Haiku... Wheel Horse Addiction Patina show or worker Any Horse will do Just sayin’...

To verify the condition occurs on other humans simply look at the threads related to @JCM Jim's Meet and Greet and the Caption This. You'll witness several other like beings having similar issues. As stated above there is no known cure. Management of symptoms however is fairly simple and involves seat time, wrenching time, and of course further purchases. Meet and Greets are also HIGHLY recommended. Sharing pictures with the group is a great management tool as well. Good luck. Be safe. Buy more sheds.

I can see the point of not wanting to leave dirty oil for a long period. I agree with the logic. Fact is, it needs to be changed at a certain interval. Usually 25 hours or so for splash lube and 50+ for pressure lube. Ours gets done 2 or 3 times a year on the 2 main workers.

@echris I will offer to help, because I care. If your curvy face begins to cause pain, I’ll send you my address and you can send me a Horse! My curvy face never hurts and I give the tractors plenty of open pasture time and a dry bed to rest!

No help available... Well maybe another horse....

New to the forum and D180 project. The previous owner said the axle seals were leaking and when he started to split the case he got it .5 inch apart and a sheared bolt and nut fell out. The only things I can see in assembly drawings are 4 bolts on the main axle gear assembly. He said the tractor still drove and the lift for the belly and 3pt worked great so hopefully it isn't shelled. Oh well I'll will see once I have it on the bench. I figured at 100 for a complete tractor plus the heavy dozer blade it was worth a risk. Anyway this looks like a good place for help when I need it. And Im really excited to see this tank work!

You might have a wheel horse addiction if someone tells you about wheel horse parts and you drive 2 1/2 hours one way because they was cheap! Telling yourself you could use a part or too! 😂 Just throw them in the van as you would groceries! Taking pride in your new trophies!!

Grease job and a fluids change on my old reliable plow-horse today. Almost the fall equinox people... time to think about getting ready for the dreaded four letter S word.

Just a bunch of red Oklahoma dust from a barn and surface rust. The only leaking I see is from the rear assembly. He said it needed axle seals and was leaking at the case seams and needed a new case gasket which was why he was splitting them? IDK. I'll find out once it's apart. If it is grenaded has anyone done a custom rear end set up/ swap?

More cowbell is always good! More Wheel Horses even better!! That said I'm running out of room. Bill

The auger is in my opinion the best woodworking bit there is within their size range. Normal ones range from a #4 to a #16. That is 4/16' to 16/16". That is the standard designation of size for augers in 16ths of an inch although there are exceptions. There are also numerous varieties of augers but the most common ones are the Jennings Pattern on right and the Irwin Pattern on left. Unknown to many is also the fact they are usually specialized for softwoods or hardwoods, the difference being the threads in the screw one being coarse fast threaded for softwoods and one being fine threaded for hard woods. What the difference does is it changes the feed rate into the wood. Augers are also slightly narrower along their lengths than at the cutting edge to provide slight clearance as hole is drilled to avoid binding. Within their size range there is not anything else like them that provides a perfectly started hole with no tear out, the best chip ejection with no clogging whatsoever in their entire length ( try drilling a 6" deep hole with any other bit without frequently backing it out), and the ability to drill a hole up to 7-1/2" deep using a standard bit. With practice one can also drill up to 45 degree holes without any type of jig. The Jennings pattern bit is in itself a beautiful piece of engineering, a complete vintage set in their original case commanding serious money. Luckily unless one wants shiny new bits they can be picked up at most flea markets by the dozens for next to nothing. Most are able to be restored and used to their full potential. Just look out for badly pitted ones and ones with a broken screw. Sharpening them is really simple. I use a few small files, small tapered triangular files are best for this,and hone them frequently with some ceramic slips. The honing part is not necessary for most , it is just my way of always maintaining them perfectly sharp. First sharpen cutting edges by holding file flat on cutting edge removing material from the entire cutting edge. Avoid doing just the tip of the edge. Doing so eventually one starts reducing the distance from that edge to the spur which is important and also quickly loosing cutting edge. There is a limit to how far back that edge can be sharpened. Hone any burrs on the underside of edge. Next do the spurs again holding file tight to the whole length of spur. Avoid reducing the height of the spurs and keep them at the same height. Equal height is important . Drastically unequal spurs create a sort of pulling to one side as one turns brace. Last just remove any burs very lightly from outside spurs. Keep flutes clean. I use a dry lubricant spray on them. Keeps them from rusting and helps in providing a slippery surface for chips.

I'd volunteer to do that for you all but I don't think it's a good idea. You see. The fact of the matter is, my rhythm is about as good as a piece of spaghetti in a hurricane that's being electrocuted at the same time . I estimate that it would take most of you 7 to 10 years of consistent therapy to get past watching something like that. To get it out of your head, frontal lobotomy would be the only answer.

Wow! Thank you @SylvanLakeWH. That is awesome. I guess maybe someone should come up with an interperative dance to go with it.

Always drain the oil right after cutting the grass so any contaminants are in suspension in the oil. I also lubricate everything that has a fitting at the time of the oil change. I tend to change oil in the 310-8 that I mow with about the first of August and again at the end of mowing/leaf collection season. After the final run I also tend to the blades and belts as well as washing and waxing the prior to tucking in the blanket for winter storage.

No known cure. Covid-19 has a MUCH MUCH better chance

Saab. Saco. Said. Sake. Sand. Sane. Sank. Sans. Safe. Save. Saps. Sawn. Saws. Scan. Scat. Scam. Scot. Scam. Scow. Sect. Seem. Self. Seal. Seen. Seep. Seer. Sees. Sego.

It's the "commercial" version of the 100-series rear engine rider. I think they have different front wheels, a Kawasaki engine, and a transaxle with a high-speed transport gear. Pretty rare as things go. But the 100's aren't particularly popular with collectors (shame on you guys!). It would be neat to have the full commercial lineup: 112-C 418-C 520-HC I think there was a 700-series with a commerical moniker too. Maybe it was the 5018 zero turn. Steve

They say you attract like minded ppl to yourself

How about some pictures? I have a couple D-160's,a D-180,and a D-200.Like all wheel Horse tractors,the D series are great.Sounds like you've got a differential bolt sheared off.But........why was the previous owner splitting the tranny case for,when you change axle seals from the outside?? I think he knew something unhappy was happening inside.First pic is of my D-180.Second pic is my D-200.

I've seen these words and letters before but never in this order. Must be some sort of crazy talk...

Grade 8 here also ----- I get all my conventional hardware (bolts,nuts, washers, etc) at TSC. I like the way they handle your purchases in that area - by the pound, If I need 10 of one size and 20 of another and the nuts to match you can just throw the mix in a bag and they'll weigh it and its all the same price. For other less conventional hardware I have an large store that will have most any odd ball piece you can imagine - I needed 4 12" 3/8 bolt in grade 8 and they had that. The down side is they are some 25 miles from me! The little bit of stainless I buy doesnt impress me, a lot of it must be in the category of so much of many other things and probably imported, and tends to start rusting much to quickly.

If your throttle shaft has any side to side movement (more than a tiny tiny bit) you can put a bushing on the top of the carb to correct it. Kohler makes one part #2515802-5, 7/16" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. x 1/8" thick but I have never found it in stock at Partstree or other online parts places (you might find it on ebay). If you have a hardware store with all those little parts drawers you can get some brass thrust washers 7/16" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. x 1/16" thick Hillman part #58087 or McMaster-Carr part # 5906K561and stack 2 of them in that little recess in the top of the carb body.

Just...no toga!

Beautiful @SylvanLakeWH.. now do a sonnett!

No, resolution begins when you stand and state your name.

I am am cleaning up some things in the garage and moved out four of the RJs today ! All started up with gas added to two of them. The photo glitch was all me! I have a YouTube account for videos but these were pics. I do need to use the YouTube URL system though on Red Square!!

If you want I also have a YouTube channel and I show some of the repairs I have done to my D series. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRboR0C2UE6bqALxax3_h8A/videos

Amazing! Thanks for posting. Lots of great information in your post. I inherited a lot of drill bits from my grandfather and enjoy using his old Irwin pattern set that is still in the original box, like yours. I’ll be making some spoon bits soon for some chairmaking I plan to get into. I have several auger bits that I’ve accumulated over the years and are mostly used for electrical work. Some are suited for drilling horizontal holes in rafters or joists (short and stubby), and others for drilling long vertical holes in girders or built up beams. I just used used a Rigid NOS auger bit for the first time three weeks ago (bought it in 1995) when I put together a new anvil stand for an old Fisher anvil of mine. It worked perfectly and almost effortlessly. By the way, from the looks of the background in your pics, you must have quite a nice shop. I just built a new wood shop and a blacksmith shop last summer in expectation of having it organized form my pending retirement in a few years. Cheers! Dave

Thank you for doing what you do to preserve this hobby and part of our history. These were once and are still great working machines that have helped many of us accomplish tasks over the years. I don't have much knowledge of anything made before 1964. See the picture below. There's a belt guard that is a homemade piece. If you'd like to have it to try to modify it and maybe weather it so that it would look okay on that machine it's yours for the price of shipping.

Is the solution more cowbell?

I suggest therapy. This takes time and can be controled . You will have to find another one.!!