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From October 2018, my "Wheel Horse Kid" still loves Grandpa's old WH 1054. Won't be long she can help Grandpa doing yard work.

picked up a nice vintage Craftsman bench grinder. Very heavy and runs like a sewing machine.

So guy across the street is a picker and told me he had a REO mower that he would give me . Well it wasn’t what I was expecting as sciffs and push mowers is all I ever seen . I’m thinking perfect yard art for the flowerbed . Unless someone here wants it .

The B17, Sentimental Journey, made a stop not too far away this weekend. It’s one of 5 in the world left flying. It was built for and used during World War II. It later saw duty as a fire fighting plane before undergoing an 18 year restoration to its former glory. We were able to tour it yesterday. If it ever stops near you, go check it out!! The tour was only $20 for a family, but you could go for a ride if you could cough up $425 per seat or $850 for a nose seat! Too rich for my blood!!

Our local antique engine club had a meet today, and it was combined with an antique outboard club meet. Had a decent turnout and I wound up bringing this thing home. It's a Yazoo Master Mower YR-48, with a 9HP Wisconsin AENL. I eyed it last night as I was helping set up for today, buried in a U-Haul trailer under bins of outboard engine parts. When I got home I went ahead and threw some gas and a battery in my truck just in case I bought it. Today, once everything was unloaded around it where I could size it up a little better, I made an offer that I figured would be an insult and it was accepted. The seller (original owner) told me its history said it was a bear getting it into the trailer with 3 flat tires. I wasn't about to try to unload it with 3 flats. One front aired up without issue. The other front was off the rim and the valve stem was broken off. The rear was off the rim and deformed pretty bad. There wasn't a parts store in a 30 mile radius, and I know the owner of the property that we had the meet on quite well, so i went behind his shop and was able to find a wheel and remove the valve stem from it without damaging it. Popped it into the wheel and aired it up. Rear wouldn't air up. Back behind the shop I found another 8" wheel that also had a 5x4.5" bolt pattern. Threw it on and rolled it out of the trailer. Rinsed the 1988 fuel out of the tank, put a battery on it and after cleaning the sediment bowl, tapping on the carb to stop it from flooding over and cleaning the points, it fired up and ran fairly well. Drove it around and mowed a bit and then drove it up on the trailer! What do y'all think? Anyone familiar with them? I just thought it looked tool and liked it since it had a Wisconsin on it. Appears to be original paint as it has all of the factory decals in-tact and in good shape. Did I get hurt at $100?

ok here it is took a little road tip this morning about 5hrs round trip. Picked up a brinly dump cart from one stop and the other stop was the snowblower and wheel weights for a whopping $55 for the whole package! Well was it worth the wait?

Happy Birthday Lane!

Zoom in on this head. Do you think he comes from good blood lines. @Ed Kennell

Oh kwicherbichin Jim your "Tractor Heavy"

She did clean up pretty good. IT has an original seat. Most of the problems seem to be with the fuel getting to the carburetor. They have an electric fuel pump hooked to a replacement mechanical pump that appears to be plastic. Gonna have to test on it to see if the electric fuel pump would be better if hooked directly to the carb instead of through the fuel pump. it is running better than it was, but as you can see, it is a lot of tractor for $220.00. Good battery, good wheels and tires, and runs decent . However, right now, I have to prime it through the air cleaner to get it to start

Nasty storms rolled through Monday night . I didn't know how bad things were until we got there . Seemed like every turn there was damage to trails / trees . 1 & 2 are my bud Carl wielding the little but nasty McCullagh . 3 You can see all the stuff down the hill that was knocked down , a Cottonwood fell on a Birch AND a Cherry tree and floored the both ! 4 What a mess . 5 Almost there ..... 6 WE WIN !

Neighbor just dropped it off. This one may become the hot rod tractor. I’ll have to check it all over later. Fuel tank is missing. These really aren’t all that special are they?I’m not sure it’s worth restoring to original. I have a Kohler m12 I can put on if the B&S is bad and I have a rear fuel tank and fender support from a 412-8. Another project....

Got the new 121 to start and run. It does OK if you shoot some carb spray to get it started, so I decided to go with fuel issues first. It came equipped with an electric fuel pump, so the first test was to see if it would pump through the manual fuel pump. Check. then I tested the needle and seat . check. Then I pulled the emulsifier tube main jet and idle jet ant they wee oK. Finally i found some yellow gas residue in the bowl and some other dirt . if that was still thee after an hour of mowing, i am pretty sure that the bowl had some water in the bottom. So there we are ,starts and runs every time now. I only had this tractor for a week, and two more showed up. Two black hood 14HP automatics. One extra set ag tires in good shape. Front mount blade and chains. All for $200. Seems like he was tired with dealing with ppl trying to lower the price and he just wanted them gone. They were previously advertised for $500 which till was not bad. i do not really feel bad, because i gave him what he asked. He said to save his phone number as he might want to buy one back once it runs... I gotta stop looking at marketplace 11 is enough..

Time for the 420-LSE to be put to work. Hauling some freshly split wood to the log rack in the living room, nights are getting cool and I like that.

Nothing wrong with a little extra on the bottom...

Slow down and start addressing one component at a time. Is the wire from the ignition points in good condition and connected to the "-" side of your ignition coil along with the condenser? Is the coil wire to the spark plug in good condition? With the ignition points cover off rotate the flywheel in a clockwise direction until you see the points open, now slowly continue rotating until the points are open as far as they will go. The opening should measure 0.020". Rotate the flywheel until the points are closed. Remove the present wire from the ignition switch to coil and connect a small jumper wire from the battery "+" to the "+" on the coil. Open and close the points and see if you get a spark. If there is no spark remove the wire to the condenser and try again. Remove the jumper wire when finished. Let us know what you come up with.

Ryan...Eric's right...one thing at a time, otherwise you will have no idea what fixed it. There is not a lot of wires in a 702...touch both ends with a point meter...un-hook the battery. Check each wire at both ends...if you do not have a short, you have a high resistance open (a broken wire.). Fastest way to check wires for continuity.

While was working on new fasteners on the hood Fed Ex dropped off my new seat

Regal red

It has been almost three years and now I am about to get back on this project. I have added on to my shop and have organized everything to gain more room to work. The final project is adding a small closed in lean to for my 2 air compressors and install pipe to three locations in the shop. I have about 2 days work to finish this project then back to tractor work. Jay

Edmund usually lurks inside Tecky carburetors throwing out carbuncles on occasion on a perfectly running engine. Usually right in the middle of mowing a big yard. Sometimes he casts a spell on crankshafts and connecting rods. This is the first known incident in a transmission

$100 and it runs? That's beer and scratchers tickets for the weekend. You definitely came out ahead.

Even managed to spot this little Salamander before he got hurt . I picked him / her up and carried it off to a safe location

1 down. Time to move onto part number 2

I just picked up a 1969 gt14 that came with the original 36’ tiller, 48’ Deck, 54’ plow, a brinley Single bottom plow, a brinley 8 tine cultivator, and a 2004 42’ snowblower for a newer wheel horse. I was wondering what it might all be worth. The tractor is all original and 100% fully functional as well as the all the attachments. The tractor has all the original 3 point lift too. I paid $700 for all of it and I’m wondering if that was a good deal or not?

Here’s my Reo RR-46 bought about 15 or so years ago, it was NOS on a shelf in a dealers back barn.

No! Not winterizing time!

The lighter ones are good for body and fender work, mower decks like TH said the thicker the more horse power need = $$. I had a 110 volt model, I made a vid for the tube on that one (and it was a little shaky it was one of my first try), it was good for 1/8" and under. I sold it and picked up a used unit on CL. Hyper-therm 600. 230v 50amp service required. I have cut 1/2" and does equally well on the thinner stuff too. Tinkering with the air and settings you can make some pretty nice cuts. The sky's the limit from hobby to CNC control, you can tie up cash. I do use it often. I think that is the key. If your going to spend a lot on something got to have a use. that just me.

I will vote for that!

I'd answer that in two parts. 1. Anytime you think you need to rewire a whole tractor, you probably should. But!! 2. You REALLY should figure out the actual problem first Then, as stated above follow the original schematic to rewire.

I would vote for the 20 i have on my 212 Horse 18 x 8,5 x 8“ on the rear. a bit more will help increase ground speed and give you more clearance. few pict‘s to compare

Tires too big? ------- NO such thing I put 20/10-8 Aggs on my crapsman scrub mower, just because. Fill those with water, and they will also work as weights :-). To me the question is more like: Can these clear the fenders? Can these also allow room for your implements? But you can't trust me on this. I'm a notorious BBM (Big But Man) ------- on tractors that is!

Remove that pulley. I wouldn't be to worried about damaging that pulley because it's not the correct one anyway. It's off of a snowblower and should be changed. Look for hole with a set screw in it which will need to be taken out. Spray some penetrating oil in the set screw hole, and both ends of the shaft and into the keyway groove. Soak spray soak spray and repeat Get a new 2 1/2" pulley to install with a new key. RJs are a bit slow moving as it is and it will be crawling with that smaller pulley on the engine. Original pulleys have the set screw deep in the groove but if you don't plan to run implements like a deck, this pulley will do https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Pulleys/Finished-Bore-Pulleys/2-55-OD-3-4-Bore-1-Groove-Pulley-1-BK25-C.axd The clutch idler pulley rides on top of the top belt loop for and RJ58. It pushes down on the belt to tighten it when the pedal is released. Do you have a belt guard? The correct belt is a cloth covered 1/2" wide x 29" The raw edge belt will constantly grab the engine pulley and the trans will grind gears whenever you shift into a gear.

The right way to fix this...pull off that engine pulley and clean up the engine shaft and inside the pulley. The pulley should slide on enough to align. I would not just try tapping it on more the way it is.

Not sure about them being special....called an “Anniversary model” but I think it was a chance for WH use up old leftover body parts in 1981. And then WH kinda cheaped out and slipped in the less costly Briggs. That’s being said it’s still a WH so try saving it or pass along to another WH guy, always a better option than the scrapyard.

Hi all. Seeing as how I have some rotary blades to sharpen I decided to invest in a blade balancing jig. Its a little more fancy than using a nail but it is accurate and works really easy. Mount the blade on it using the centre cone and magnets. Same as using a nail, grind material off the heavy end until it balances. This is a brand new blade but it was out of balance. What caused it? Simply the paint on one end.

I will, and for extra measure, I’m going to paint a black line across the hub to axle face to be able to monitor it. I’ll be keeping my eyes open for another transaxle to keep on hand. For a 1973, it looks pretty good and eventually will go to my daughter.

Got the rims back from powder coat and got them mounted. First time on all 4s all summer.

Just stacking up some left over pieces. The frame is a 312 and a big ole 5 lug hydro rear and I believe the seat is Fordson. Let's see what happens, shall we.

I don't "C" why not.

The lawn skiff, made by REO

Well sure, who else was gonna do it?

Just checked the fenders, 2" bigger will fit fine, 4" may be cutting it too close to the fenders. I think 18" tires will be the ticket.

Naming implements?

Happy Birthday @Lane Ranger, we are all glad you were born!

Thanks! I figured I could get more than $100 worth of good out of it simply using it as a brush hog to get into spaces that a tractor can't get into. Engine is good and tight.

Something like this might help to make this work. When the tension pulley is in slack mode, the guard actually funnels the slack in the belt toward the engine pulley. This allows the in-put pulley on the transmission to come to a stop and you can now shift without grinding the gears. Check out these 1/4" wire guides that were used to help funnel the slack and still keep the belt in line with the pulleys. You might do the same thing with success. Adjust them to be about 1/4" from the belt.