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700 Workhorse , found it on Facebook Marketplace and it's now home after a 175 mile round trip road trip. my plan is to ditch the incorrect engine and install a good H70 i happen to have ready. then grease it up , fix a few things, sharpen the blades and go mow. tires seam to hold air i'm kinda diggin' the headlights , they may stay!

Again I used a Ross Steering unit from a Cub on my second WH custom. Built for wheel stands, gripping the wheel could be a matter of life or death. The tower and steering components had to be capable of holding a man as if he were hanging over a cliff. Since I don't weld I bolted on a section of frame for the tower that had the transmission plate. I had to cut down the steering column so I could use a deep quick release steering wheel. A mule pulley housing mated the column to the tower as strong as if I had welded it all together. To soften the landings I cut to size porch swing springs to replace the sections of axle I cut off. A 4" pulley on the engine and 3" on the trans makes a perfect all around 2nd gear. Third bogs down and first is too slow for me.

Thanks so much!

and my wife tells me I need adult supervision! Good job, looks like a lot of fun!

Yep, pays to be a good neighbors!

A guy gave me a "Toro Wheel Horse" yesterday. He said" it was under a tarp, had a little something wrong with it". It had been park for years!! The finish is in pretty good shape, rotten tires, had to winch it up my trailer. I need help identifying it from more experience owners than myself. It has a horizontal shaft Kohler engine, A decal on the side, "312-8". A tag under the seat reads: ID Number 3112K801 12372, underneath this number there is another 4 digit number with the first digit unreadable, for a 019 follows it. :Where can I find out: 1.Parts Source, where to obtain parts and O&M manuals 2.What is the year built 3.What numbers do I use when ordering parts Is this worth fixing up to use? Sell of the parts ebay? Need some advice folks?

Here's what I used. The upper right breaker is the incoming from the generator. As you can see it can't be turned on unless the main is in the off position. And vise versa. The only thing I won't run is the cloths dryer but everything else purrs like a kitten. That 2 pole 30 breaker could actually be a switch duty only (no overcurrent protection) because that line is protected at the source (generator) but I had the 30. There's a company that makes these for most panels http://www.interlockkit.com/ but I went with a Square D brand to keep all the components the same brand. The link I posted is a bit pricey. I'm assuming that's because they know what a 200A transfer switch costs. I got the Square D SD-200A for less than half that. You crafty fellows could fabricate one but I wouldn't recommend it. It's a UL listing thing.

That’s quite a gift, once fixed up it would easily lend decades of trouble free service!

The 1054 I bought in Toronto, Canada several years ago has our 50 inch SMS-505 sickle bar mower on it. The previous owner made his own set of headlight lenses when his old ones gave away! Also added some old photos of some of our 1054’s!

Thanks put alot into complete rebuild,hope all goes well

More updates when I have good service, but Poppy ROCKS! I feel like is a junior @Skipper / @meadowfield creation!

WOW......thanks to all for the manuals, advice, and suggestions!!! This is a great site with real sharing members!!! I really appreciate all you have provided.

Welcome to the best site going -- especially for horses!! Good to see another coon-a## here, I'm not too far away, just out of Shreveport. That tractor appears to be in really nice condition, if the rest of it is like the seat then you got a good un!

That's the same kind of buildings from the carport.com Build your own on there. Price is accurate for whoever you end up using.

Those 6 switches are individual transfer switches. Once each one is switched from line to gen that particular circuit becomes fed from the generator and is isolated from street power. Very safe and totally legal

Been working on the tailgate for a week. Built the bench Sunday/Mon after work. Stained the bottom tonight

Believe it or not... I may still have a few sets lying around here.

Yup looks good from here too. Looks like a nice clean motor to boot. Follow the adjustment in the manual and should be good to go.

Yes that was what I was asking thank you I appreciate the fast response

1 1/2 qts to 2 qts of 90 wt. Fill until it starts to leak out of the fill hole on the left side of the transmission behind the axle.

If you are asking if the spring is on correctly, the answer is yes.

Ha, I see you're at it again. That still pic for the video is great! Just another crazy old man and his lawnmower! LoL

greent - you might need to get creative ( but fortunately for you that is no problem ! ) maybe you can get a spark arrestor or similar from another muffler / and insert / weld into your stack the mufflers I've had with spark arrestors did the best job of taming the noise (of the motorcycles I've had) also - don't overlook the wall thickness of the muffler / stack itself ... increased wall thickness can lower decibels ... some pipes / mufflers are double wall ...

thanks @Tractorhead for the thoughts. These are all great items to check. One by one, we will test these as needed if we don’t get the result we are desiring. As Dan stated, we definitely have a spark issue. When I’m confident that we have that taken care of, if the problem still exists, we will take a look at the carb. The carb is brand new and has only be on the machine since I brought it out of storage. It is a factory replacement and so it is the vacuum style. I have the original carb that came on it but I would need to do a massive cleaning as it sat with old fuel in it for about 3 years Thanks for the link Jim, I already have a performance version of this on its way, along with a performance coil. These are upgrades that I wanted to do eventually anyway. A good excuse to take care of them now. Mine is the AC version whereas Bob’s was the DC style. I am still going to put fresh connectors on the wires attaching to the coil before I exchange it...🤞🏻🙏🏻

Agreed also pays to just be a nice human being. I have gotten a few things given to me over the years and i return the favor all the time. This was given to me by a guy in ohio 4 hours away from me one way. Here is my before and after photo so far what ive did.

That should clean up really nicely. Change all the fluids, drain the old fuel and replace with new, put in a new battery and it will probably start right up.

This is the group for you. Try this site to for a good overview of your machine. http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/5/0/506-wheel-horse-312-8.html But to get the specifics this is the site for you. Also lets see some photos.

Welcome to the forum. Added your serial to the list 2 more pages https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=31-12k801&quick=1&type=downloads_file Garry

T😎

They are spade connectors on the ignition coil and I’ll try putting new ones on it.🤞🏻 Unfortunately, there is quite a bit of wire in these little machines as Dan stated. I’ll post a picture of it sometime soon here. However, if I can’t source the problem sometime soon, that may be an option I’m forced to consider.

Peanut butter sandwiches anyone!! Cant wait to see this one finished.

This ain’t no @giddyap Wheelie Horse Richard. This is the same solid core wire that I use for paint line drying, even tying parts to a tractor on a ride to @Tractorhead’s place !

Last night, I drained the fuel tank completely, then flushed it with the hose until nothing but clear water was coming out the drain and the fill. I then used the shop vac to blow hot air in the tank to dry it out good and do a final visual inspection. It runs pretty good! I took a spin around the yard and field a couple times then it died about 20 feet from the barn entrance. It was like the electrical just cut off. No crank, not even try, nothing. Couldn’t be the battery was dead, but maybe the regulator wasn’t grounded good to the battery box tab? Just to ease my mind, I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. Funny thing, the negative cable came completely off! Ends up the cable end snapped off on the trans/seat mount and that caused it to kill! Good deal, a bit longer cable and we’re back in business! The girls watched a movie with the iPad, so of course no pictures of the matter yet, but I machined and welded one of the front hubs too. I ended up drilling holes from each end of the solid bar in 3 steps up to about .725” then reamed them With a .750” reamer. It looks so good, I can’t wait to show y’all!

I would love to see some detail of this.

Well that's cool. Can you post some pics of the homegrown suspension? And what engine is that?

Normally I like to keep the original paint too. This Cub had already had some paint work done to it. The hood was never painted but the yellow parts of the tractor were touched up. Was not done recently but you can tell it was done some time ago. So I decided to touch it up some more. I just sprayed the top of the hood, leaving the sides of the hood and dash alone. Paint matched really good so it blended well. I will rub a coat of wax on it tomorrow. If I get the small hole on the deck welded I am going to have to paint that as well. I really want to see what it looks like with the snow blower attached. Seems to be a pain in the butt to remove mower deck and put on the blower. Wheel Horse is much easier that is for sure.

Whoops my bad.... didn't see the bikini from the beach ball! Still a dibs tractor tho I don't care if @19richie66 may be closer!

This is what I did with my 18 x 20 pole shed. Loft is 4 ft deep, 6' 3" head clearance, and constructed with 2" x 6" 2 ft on center. I have 39" storage on side walls about 7' in the center.

Remove the cover and slap some grease on the gears.

Exercise mine a few times a year, always on a battery maintainer and it’s stored in my basement so it’s never cold. This last outage a few weeks ago was a bit long so I poured a few ounces of SeaFoam in the tank knowing it would get pulled thru the entire fuel system while it ran overnight. Bought it maybe 8-10 years ago. Only on my second battery with 146 hours on the clock. Tied to my house via a 200 amp manual transfer switch (big switch on the left) so everything gets powered up.

I'm going to change this up a bit.... What have I done for my I bought a York rake a while ago It's 6 foot wide and weighs about 400 lbs, it really does the job. BUT It's a god awful color I couldn't take it anymore. So.... What'd ya think I like it a whole lot better

I always wanted a generator but always worried that I wouldn’t exercise it enough to have it run when I actually needed. When I found a good used generator for my wheel horse I jumped at it because it fits on almost all of my tractors, is very easy to install because I keep it on a cheap four wheel dolly that positions it perfectly underneath my tractors, and I always have at least one tractor that will start so I always have a generator when I need it. It’s not very big but I have my house wired so that I can use it to power enough critical circuits to keep food from spoiling, heat, and a few lights in the house.

Thanks @Mickwhitt Added last coat of stain tonight. If it not raining tomorrow I'll be dropping off with the new owner. And leaving with a pocket full of moneys:)

Hi all i was wondering if im on the right track I think I'm pretty close

I've lived in this house for 32 years. The power has been out a total of maybe 5 hours. I bought this Generac at the WH show about 5 years ago. I have run a fan with it twice Tractor is long gone.

Here in Gloucester Va the power goes out if t a cow passes gas. In 08 I bought and Baldor genny with an 11hp Honda engine.Expensive then and even more now.It rests in a heated and air condtioned garage When it runs it is to keeps the refrigeration and water going.I baby the thing.Always drain the fuel tank and run it until the carb is empty.The last 2 times I needed it it was hard to start.I thought the fuel shutoff screen was the issue.It has the same shut off the horses have.I pulled the old one out and the rubber grommet came out as well.The tank is now draining and I notice beading with the little fluid that came out.Water had got to the bottom of the tank and once jostled got in the fuel line.Okay got it.I put in a new shut off and filled the tank The genny starts first pull and runs like a champ until half a tank.It sputters until it dies.It acts like it needs fuel.This happened 3 times .It was running out of fuel at 1/2 a tank.I pulled the new fuel shutoff valve and realized the screen was finer than the original.I ripped it out as there is a replaceable filter in line.I fired it back up and it ran flawlessly until the power came back on.I am rethinking shut offs with screens in the horses.