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Of all the tractors I have had I miss this hot rod 1257 the most. The engine was a 10 of 10. Great tractor. I do not have the original pick when I pick it up, but it did not look like this. Hindsight is real.

Need some advice. I think my pto clutch might be bad, it will slip when running the tiller or 60” finish mower. I tried to adjust it but didn’t seem too help. Also the belt for the rear pto is on the inside groove and if I’m not mistaken it should be on the outside right?

Finally found a good use for those tiny sockets that you get in socket sets, sharpen them up and use them for hole punches! Really helped make the gaskets I needed. Loader tractor went down with a leak and it was time to try out a new china carb I bought forever ago. I had to pull the hood to get my fat hands in there to work. Need to pick up some cap heads socket bolts for the carb and a couple of fittings and I should have it back together tonight. I took some pics, I know how you guys are!!

my grandson just got the billy mitchell award , in the civil air patrol, promoting him to second LT ! he is 4 years in and at 17 he looks you right in the eye and talks to you like an adult . i am a very proud grampa , he is thinking about the air force , or school. i just love to have him around and figure where we are going to fish next. he was scheduled to go to VA for another training series , but that was cancelled. the way i feel about his advancement just had to be told . pete lena

Sorry about your seller's remorse, but happy to hear your praise of the 1257. I'm in the midst of restoring a 1257, but wondering if all of my efforts are worth it. You've encouraged me to keep going. Just finished rebuilding the steering linkage, and have to finish the K301 rebuild. Thanks, Jim

Zach was excited to help with the yard work this weekend with his Blackbeard and the new weight box. Our buddy beefed this box up and added a hitch so that he could pull stuff around while having it hooked up. Does that 6 year old look happy to be on his own tractor or what? He’s a great helper too...

A long search finally comes to a close. I'm always asked why I've had 4 Chargers, 2 Electros, and a number of other older and newer hydro models.. most with hydro lift too. But never a gear drive? Well. Simple. After all the years, I've simply never come across a reasonably priced, and local, early 8 speed.. Until now. Showed up on CL about half an hour away, I wrote on the first hour of being posted. Had been in this man's ownership for about 25 years, never ran even then. Got it home, removed the 1979 dated Sears battery. Added a battery and it cranks and fires on the key. Oh.. and the HH100 SSI ignition works perfectly. In fact it'd be running right now if I could get the intake valve unsticked. It fires right off but dies just as quick. Even the carb was pretty clean. Doesn't leak. Original seat really seems nice. Very soft, just filthy. The rear wheels were reversed for some reason. Have to switch them around. With any luck she'll be running by morning.

If you have a Harley Davidson shop near by and the parts guy remembers what a Shovel head is. Those same bushings were used for Shovel Head rocker box oil lines. These are what I use. My local after market Harley shop keeps them in stock.

Straightened out the garage... Stable/Barn...? ...Seems to be gettin' thatway...! a bit more today; fair bit of new "tack" to put up... Can't see it in this pic, but there's a 10 cubic foot WH cart, homemade belly blade, n plow blade, in there too, off to the left. I. Like. Red.

Finally have a nice enough day to bust out the c161 I bought over the winter and get it running good. Adjusted the timing and the governor. Both where out of wack. Cleaned the carb. Tire pressure and put the hitch back on the back. Did oil change already. So I’m going to put it to work today and see how she does.

When I rebuilt the steering linkage (with lightly used parts), I put a spacer at the front end of the lower steering shaft. Instead of relying on just washers and a cotter pin at the rear end of the shaft, I took some play out of the steering by putting a 1/8" steel plate under the front shaft bearing to make sure that the fan gear fully engaged. Still left space for oiling the front bearing. Also, changing the battery box from the over-sized one (that was original) to the smaller one that fits a U1 battery. Leaves more room for the fan gear, and for air circulation around the engine. Also, going to put springs under the seat, instead of having it bolted directly to the fender. Easier on my 77 year old spine. Jim

I know what you mean. I haven't sold or given away any Wheelhorse stuff that I regret yet but I've definitely got that feeling for several cars and trucks I've had over the years. Hindsight is most certainly 20/20. No worries. Most of us learned something from everything we do.

Spent a few hours this afternoon experimenting with welding again. The front axle modification and build is complete. I added the second small brace cover piece to cap and reinforce the split in the middle where I put the forward sweep in the axle beam. Found a scrap piece of .100 sheet metal and cut six pieces to make end caps. Ground down the ends of the two inch square tubes to make room for the welds. I messed around with some 3/32 6011 rod and was able to make that work which I was pretty happy about. I used it to weld all of the end caps on. Then, ground down all the welds so they are basically flat end caps. I'm very very happy with the way this thing turned out. Never tried anything like this before. Absolutely fantastic learning experience.

Hi all, I finished my amber beacon job off today, managed to get the mounting sorted and wire the switch into the dash. It's a little twin rocker switch, one on/off and one momentary switch to swap between 9 different flash modes.

So I ran down and grabbed this tractor from IN this morning. It’s going to get a hitch for the moldboard plow that it’s future owners already purchased, some wiring cleanup and a couple little things then my buddy’s two youngest sons will be owners of this machine. I have shared “Cade’s Cows” before, the 14 year old beef farmer. His little brothers are getting this. I’m still on the lookout for something for him as well. They are pretty big Deere fans. I told them this tractor better not get painted Green and Yellow or y’all will probably shoot me!

Hi all, Just thought I would ask members to share those neat tools and gadgets they have made to work on their tractors. I was jacking up my WH with a scissor style motorcycle lift under the rear axle. When I got both wheels off the ground I found the machine was able to rock from side to side a lot due to the front axle pivot, almost falling off the jack. So I made a pair of aluminium blocks with a magnet let into the back so they slip into the front axle gap to stop any rocking and jerp things safe when the rear end is jacked up.

It's a 1961 model 551 That hood stand and the 2 piece trans are unique to that particular suburban model which IDs it. Someone did a good job adding those lights to the hood, looks cool but not factory

Eric, I cannot take credit for this bracket, as my Dad did it almost 40 years ago, but it works. He moved boats and trailers with this bracket, and I used it as the attachment point for the winch I recently installed. The bracket stated out as 2x2 x 1/4" angle that was cut, sectioned, bent and welded into shape to clear the hood opening. It attaches with 4 grade eight 3/8-16 bolts. Hope this helps! Danny

Got a little wet and muddy today but the price was right. Already removed a perfect headlight lens and housing from the C-series that will cover what I have in everything here. Right place at the right time.

While I was fiddling around learning how to weld yesterday, Trina and her mom took her 867 down into the forest and split up a huge pile of wood. We figure it's about 1/2 to 3/4 cord. Took them maybe 3 hours? Didn't catch any pictures of her tractor but I did snap one of when she was nice enough to put Cinnamon away for me. Saturday we used both tractors n both trailers to move a couple yards of loam from the front yard to the back for our 8 garden boxes.

I bought some from Zoro a couple years back. 3/16" COMPRESSION VITON SLEEVE 10PK PARKER| Zoro #: G2130703| Mfr #: 60VLV-3 0.0 No ReviewsWrite the First Review Pipe and Fittings Size Guide DETAILS: Item: SleeVe Temp. Range: -15 Degrees to 450 Degrees F Tube Size: 3/16" View Full Product Details Orders over $50.00 ship FREE. DetailsStandard ground shipping Limited Stock Item ships from Zoro in 1 business day. $7.36/PK

Hardware dept of any good store will have the brass fittings. It's not a rubber compression piece, typically brass. Just buy a whole new fitting, they're not expensive

Yeah jump on the plane and bring it over

8-point socket works good. I tighten, drive a bit, retorque and drive a bit and repeat until I feel they are good. When you tighten the jamb nut just snug is good. Any more than that tends to pull the screw back out so you can start over. Garry

Too far and you can barely if at all move the direction lever... Not far enough it won't hold in desired position without it creeping back to neutral or you constantly holding it there by hand... It's definitely a fine fine line between the 2. On your test drive keep your 9/16" wrench handy for adjustments until you are satisfied where it is.

Or, fill it with lead shot https://www.rotometals.com/lead-shot/ Or, if you have a bunch of drawers or boxes full of hardware fill it with that. Anything is better than nothing. You can add steel powder too. Use whatya got

My way be to leave one end cap off, then pour molten lead into the box section. Finally weld the other end cap on.

Check the bottom of the circled pin. They can get a groove worn in them (other pic) which can affect engagement.

I run Cinnamon Horse pretty heavy sometimes and I've never had that issue. A few little tricks I can offer. The first is to make sure you have to set screws in the hub and you could even go to the trouble of creating a flat spot in the axle for the second set screw to grab better. Make sure you use NEW set screws. Another neat little thing is to tighten your set screw. Loosen it. Tighten it. Loosen it. I do this at least four or five times on a new installation. if you're using a wrench, not a ratchet. You can see the clock position change from one tightening to the next proving you're going a little further into it.

Newer hubs have 2 set screws 90 degrees apart to help with this problem. You can drill and tap for second ones yourself. Make sure you use new cup point set screws

When I was a kid our elders used manual labor to remove rocks from the land, now we have machines.

After @ebinmaine Request for front bumper / carrier / toolbox it gave me an idea to see how many variations of front and rear hitches the members have attached to their WH tractors for various duties. Like to see some of them and where the Ideas came from. The front hitch shown on the 417 was originally a Mackissic chipper / shredder mount that I picked up from a dealer many years ago and thought I could put that to good use. A friend of mine who I worked with in a Chemical Plant was a phenomenal welder and has been retired for many years and still loves to stick 2 pieces of metal together and mentioned I was looking for a way to have a removable hitch on the front of my WH tractors. The first pic shows the mount attached to the frame and the second pic shows the modified part that now has a receiver hitch and a flat plate on top which I had a 12 volt winch mounted on. The second pic with the modifications comes off within seconds with a pin and the other mount needs to be unbolted from the frame which is pretty simple. Interested to see whats out there.

Got the versteins on today, i really like them. Is anyone running 24x12-12s ags on the rear ? Any pics?

Hi all, Can someone help with ID of this Wheelhorse, model and year if possible?....also are the headlights factory?....an option?.....Thanks!

I can do all the MIG welding I want and the wife wont ask what I've been doing. Burn one 6011 rod and she will tell me how bad I smell. I guess "Aroma is in the nose on the Beholder"

Stick welding does have a unique smell indeed. Speaking of smells, toxic stuff, oooh squirrel! and all that, NEVER EVER use brake clean to prep metal for welding! Better yet, if you ever use brake clean around the house, make sure you always get NON-CHLORINATED brake clean. That stuff will do bad damage in a quick hurry to your lungs and everything touching your lungs!

This mule drive with slight mod was done to carry the front weight on the Black Horse. Something similar could be done for carrying a tool box.

Many years ago in the UK, welders were entitled to a pint of milk a day, to wash the fume deposits down.

Lead melts at something like 625 degrees F. A propane torch would do it. I'm planning on filling the 2x2 square tube on the receiver hitch I'm going to make for my horse with lead. I'm planning on wielding a solid end cap on one end and an end cap with a 1" hole on the other end. Stand the tube on end and fill it through the hole. I'm not comfortable making a weld joint on a lead filled pipe with no vent.

Wanted to share I traded a family friend My late dads old John Deere 67 112 round fender hydraulic lift for a 14 hp no name. I am happy with the trade and so is he. We just did an even swap no money at all. I am super happy to own this machine It has a good local back story as well. I was told the old GM dealership in ligoneer indiana bought it new and used it to plow snow not mow. that is why the deck is tiny. everything works as it should. I guess when it gets hot tho it losses compression and dies. it hasn't did it to me yet. but maybe with a good cleaning and fresh oil change and maybe look behind the crank breather i can hopefully figure it out. If anybody has some history about an old gm dealer in ligoneer I'm all ears! Also if someone could help and post the manuals for this i struggle trying to find manuals on here LOL. I measured the deck it is 36 inches across. I also have to rewire a few things. The lights are hooked into the key switch instead of the actual light switch. also did they add switches to this from the factory but not use them? It has a PTO switch mounted on the top of the dash and it isn't hooked up cause it has a manual lift. I will get a photo of the dash.

Last but not least- the big block 654- 11hp OHV, straight 1 3/4". I have a baffle on a chain that gets dropped in the pipe when needed to tone down. GPS confirmed 28mph

Thats better! Heres the main worker- 520H, factory exhaust with a 1 3/4 stack added. LOVE the Onan snarl!

Oh how I miss all of them....... 1967 Buick GS400/4sd, positrac... had a little over 32k when I got it. (I never got a picture of it but this is identical except mine had no vinyl top and had white buckets.) 1967 Buick Special. Was my first car. 300/3spd auto 1966 Sunbeam Tiger 260 Ford small block/4sp

Awesome box set up. Zack looks like he’s having a great time.

Rare piece you have, as the Gibbs Mfg soon declared bankruptcy. .

What ever it is, it's old. U.S. Supreme Court Gibbs & Sterrett Mfg. Co. v. Brucker, 111 U.S. 597 (1884) Gibbs & Sterrett Manufacturing Company v. Brucker Submitted April 25, 1884 Decided May 5, 1884 111 U.S. 597 Syllabus An agreement signed by the maker on Sunday, but not delivered to the other party on that day of the week, is no violation of a statute making it a penal offense to do business on the first day of the week. A contract made on Sunday with an agent of the other party without his knowledge, the agent having no authority to bind his principal, and ratified by the principal on another day of the week and then exchanged, is not void as a violation of a statute making it penal to do business on Sunday. The facts making the case are fully stated in the opinion of the Court.

Didn't actually do anything with the horse 'cause I'm stuck two states away from it. I did think of something to do with the horse. Lake weed clean up. We usually spend several hours manually raking the weeds, then hauling them off with the horse and trailer. I'm thinking that I can build a drag to cut the weeds by dragging it across the lake bottom with a rope, pulleys attached to the dock, and pulling with the horse. Would need somebody to drive the horse and somebody in the water to guide the drag. Once the weeds were cut, follow up with a rake using the same system. Hopefully, I'll get to try this out in about a month. Yes, yes, yes. Pictures when it happens.

I decided to do a bit of fabrication work today and made a mounting bracket for my amber warning beacon. I had a curious length of aluminium tube which was telescopic with a locking collar which I thought would make a good mast to mount a light on as I could extend and retract it. I puzzled where to fit this to Fred and decided on the seat pan. Bit of welding and turning and I'm happy I have the basis of my light mast. Just need to make a mount for the light itself to fit the too end of the tube. This is something that is only required for a vehicle incapable of exceeding 25mph being driven on a deristricted dual carriageway, in England a 70mph speed limit. I dont think I will be trying that out any time soon.

I once bought an old Michigan loader that sat 20 years, previous own used a short peice of Big-O for the fuel cap and water found its way into the fuel system. The hired hand kept cranking the engine over until the starter eventually quit and there she sat, I had the starter rebuilt, hung a five gallon of fuel onto the machine aired up the tires then purchased a $35.00 temporary operation permit then drove the loader home. After using the loader for six months one of the injectors started acting up, found an old Adams grader with the same Detroit diesel as a donor. Installed the replacement injectors and had a run away engine. Fortunately I had read the service manual beforehand and knew what to do if a run away engine should occur. Speaking of run away diesels, if your engine starts using lots of lubricating oil and the engine now decides to run on crankcase oil that is passing the piston rings, there's no way to shut the engine down other than starving it for air. Also a very worn out turbo leaking oil into the intake side of the engine can often cause an engine to run away.