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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/2020 in Posts
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10 pointsFour years ago, I bought a 1257 for $100 that the PO said just needed a voltage regulator. He had painted the whole tractor, so it looked good. Figured I would fix it and sell it to help pay for some other WH projects. Since I'm restricted to the house (and workshop), I figured now would be a good time to fix the simple electrical problem. 1. Volt regulator okay, but problem was the starter switch, $45. 2. Battery, axle oil seals, generator belt, rear inner tubes, PTO clutch, etc. etc., $200. 3. Got it started, but ran rough, Chinese carburetor, $15. 4. Still ran rough, so pulled head. Exhaust valve shot, $12. Cleaned, lapped, and adjusted. 5. Noticed piston had some play. Bore mic'd okay; just needed honing. Rings and new piston, $45. 6. Breather parts missing, $20. 7. I figured that while I have that much apart, I'd fix the play in the steering linkage. Lower shaft beyond help, $50. 8. While taking the steering shaft out, found the dash housing cracked in two places. Luckily, I have a spare. 9. New decals, $80. Now i have everything scattered all over the workshop while I wait for parts. It's going to look and run so well, I'm not going to want to part with it. IF I HAVE TO BE LOCKED DOWN AT HOME, THIS IS A GOOD WAY TO PASS THE TIME.
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7 pointsThese are some pics for you @WV Hillbilly that I said I would post because of the Red Dirt on the frame of this car when a very good friend of mine bought when he Graduated from Norwich University in Vermont in 1986 and also a fellow Master Plumber . It had a small block 350 when he bought it but I told him it would look a lot better with a 396 in it. Long story short we picked one up after listening to it run and then he and I removed it and drove home. After installing many new parts and started it up months later it had a bad knock, must have been a mixture of gear oil and sawdust in the crankcase when we heard it run, he got discouraged and there it sits with a 1991 inspection sticker on it. He does have 4 sons but they are just not interested on working on much like we were when younger. I bought my 1970 Chevelle SS at 17 and never stopped working on it for the 23 years I owned it, I guess just a different mind set back then. Enjoy
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6 pointsFinally dragged the ol 654 down to the shop and went to thrashing yesterday on a 'mental health' day. Some of you may remember my thread awhile back, trying to decide on the hopped up 5hp briggs race kart engine, 6.5 Predator race kart engine, or the old generator 11hp OHV with the busted crank snout. Once I hit the 11hp with the tape measure, that decision was easy. And yes it fits under the stock hood! Big block power, baby! I removed the crank, turned it down to 1" and cut a keyway in it. To fit, the fuel tank mounting bosses had to be cut off the block and plates welded to the frame to offset the engine to the left about 1" for belt alignment. The governor arm is literally about 1/8" from the fuel tank securing strap bolt, everywhere else there is ample room. (No I was NOT the guy who hacked up that beautiful round hood to fit it- thats going to get fixed.) The factory tank even works, but unfortunately I had to lose the glass sediment bowl to do so. Still LOTS of work to be done, but she took her maiden run yesterday after a 7 hour thrash and hack lol. With a 6" engine pulley and 3.5" trans pulley, it is a handful to say the least! This is going to be a trail toy, and I plan to get the lift operable and keep a second pulley and belt set on hand to do some garden work as well. Yep, this is my second Wheel Horse. Addiction confirmed Will keep you all updated with pics and progress. Please see my thread in the transmission forum if you know your way around these early Unidrives- having some issues with shifting.
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5 pointsFred is correct...the bolts are in backwards in the video. This was pointed out to me very early, but the transmission was already gone so to do another video was not an option. I have also told many members that the video is incorrect according to the manual. Like Jim says...there is enough room to put them in backwards without having a problem. The thing is, in all the transmissions before the 10 pinion...what I did would be correct.(to have the nuts facing the brake shaft side. I wish I could go back in the video and say what is right. BTW, looking at those pictures in the thread, those bolts were that way when I opened it. I just put them back the way I found them. So sorry for missing that in the manual. As far as trying to picture what is going on in that differential...picture this...the limited slip does not work when not going in a straight line. That is when that spring just holds those floating pinions in place and a regular differential is in effect. When you are going in a straight line, the internals of the differential aren't moving, they are just going around with the mushroom gear turning the bull gear. Then the spring puts pressure on all the pinions so if one side starts to slip..the pressure of the spring will keep the floating pinions tight and turning. This type of transmission is based on going in a straight to make it do the Limited Slip. You can kind of visualize this in the 1st few seconds of the video when I turn the axle with all the pinions in place without the spring. With the spring in, I could hardly turn the axle by hand. Hope that helps. I went back in that thread and made a correction about these bolts just before that video. That should catch those that use the thread to re-build that transmission.
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5 points
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4 pointsPainting up some old wheels and tires from an RJ that I am redoing ! Used some Valspar Antique White because that is what I had four cans of and used on the front wheels and now on these rear. usef about the last bit of my original M. E. Miller black tire paint concentrate today! Bought this bottle more than ten years ago and used on many sets of tires ( also have lots away to folks as the concentrate would last along time and do many tires with just a small amount)! Now have the ready to use bottle which is just not as good.
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4 points
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4 pointsChisel under the end....Dremel with a cutoff wheel slice a slot the length of the key down almost to the bottom then collapse the sides in.
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4 pointsNot a great day to paint outside here 34 degrees 38mph wind gusts and snow flurries all day....But I don't like to paint even on nicer days
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4 pointsI think I may have one, I am headed back up to the barn this afternoon and I'll check. Maybe a trade for some decals? I can get back to you this evening. Joe
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4 pointsI clamp a piece of angle iron to the bench. Then roll my stock against it with the end you are going to drill closest to me. Then I get a piece of wood or steel or what ever you have that is half the thickness of your diameter. Place it against your shaft and scribe a line. Rotate your stock and scribe again. After multiple times you should have center
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4 pointsThere is one there. But basically, you have a ring of five gears that rides with one axle and a ring of five gears that rides with the other axle. There is a round piece of spring steel that contacts all 10 gears. It puts pressure on them and holds them from being a true open differential.
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4 pointsWhatever you do , DON'T GET RID OF IT ! You'll regret it the rest of your life . I sold this '69 Camaro after my dad passed away in '07 and every time I look at it I figure out a new way to kick myself in the *$$ !
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4 pointsYes sir it did. Being very fortunate to have a mill and lathe in the shop, I pulled the crank, squared off where it snapped, turned it down to 1" and cut a 3/16 keyway in it. Luckily there was plenty of shaft left to run a pulley.
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4 points
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4 pointsFirst time poster on RedSquare. I have looked and this site in the past and found helpful info. I think the Wheelhorse community might enjoy this video vlog my family and I are doing about restoring a 753 that has some family history. Sure some of you can relate to this project. This is the first episode on youtube. you can find the rest on our channel ELET Productions. Hope you find it and enjoy the work we are putting in to this project. Subscribe to the channel if you want for future updates..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M91LjTzejIc&t=10s
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3 points
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3 pointsPut a voltmeter on the solenoid small wire, when you turn the key there should be voltage. If not, find the faulty safety switch, ignition switch or connection.
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3 pointsI've never been that bored, guess that is why I use hub caps. But, if I wanted to paint two tone rims I would paint the entire rim the color you want for the backing plate. After a week or more I would mask off the plate area on both sides and paint the rim.
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3 pointsI got a new shift boot today. Much better than the rotten one that was on it. Also, I decided to try and wet sand and polish "Roy" today. Glad I did. Does anyone know if the headlight lens that they sell at wheel horse parts and more will fit an 867?
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3 pointsThis is true and the reason they do is because you don't want the nuts to hit the mushroom gear. We checked it both ways and determined that there is enough clearance if they go in backwards. Dino says he did a few bass ackwards and nobody's come back to strangle him!
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3 pointsI agree . The cylinder will be somewhat of an oval shape. All the wear will be on the front and the back of the cylinder. The sides won't have as much wear.
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3 points
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3 pointsIt's the new math. It's confusing to me. If you drop a piece of metal 2" and then you drop a piece of metal 2" again, you get potato. Or Cheez-Its. I can't remember. But I still get an A.
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3 pointsGreat rescue !!! Great way to spend a day. I enjoy reading about others who share their ability to do this type of work. Turning down the crank after the damage to make it usable is a form of labor that has been lost. Most now look at the worth or value monetarily of the project and would have tossed the motor, It is a pleasure to watch as this and other projects unfold here on Red Square.
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3 points
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3 pointsSounds all too familiar.I've been down that road many,many times in my life working on projects.I've got a 1998 Jeep Wrangler in my shop that started out only needing front fenders replaced.Turning into an almost complete rebuild.Oh well.It keeps me off the streets and there's worse things to spend money and time on.Your Wheel Horse is lookin' good.
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3 points
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3 pointsHere's a picture comparing the stock horse axle and the custom axle I'm thinking about modifying for use. The custom axle makes a tractor sit about an inch higher than stock. I believe that was done to allow the frame to be level with the tiny wheels/tires that were on it. I'd cut at the blue lines. Take a piece of 2" square tubing and put the center section on TOP in the middle. The 2 outside pieces BELOW at the ends. This would accomplish 2 things. A. Obviously extend the length. B. Raise the tractor 2" + in the front to allow for more tire clearance and also ground clearance.
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3 pointsSat this extra pair of 23x10.50r12’s next to Putt Putt today. He needs a bath. And some dually adapters! Had a chat on the phone with @PeacemakerJack... that’s always a good time bench racing ideas and dreams!
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3 pointsAny visitors to Rylee's bird house? I had this guy checking mine this morning, but I haven't seen him since the wind storm blew thru this afternoon.
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2 pointsTry tapping down with a punch and hammer at one end in an attempt to rock the key so the opposite end pops up.
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2 pointsYou are on the right track. Pulleys exert a thrust perpendicular to the crankshaft. That is why a long (1" or so) sleeves bearing on each end of the crankshaft can handle the stress, they have small lips on the ends that can deal with minor side to side movement.. WH manual PTOs push in on the end of the crankshaft. those little flanges on sleeve bearings can't handle it. K series Kohlers used ball bearings not sleeve bearings on the crank. They can handle the end loading, the balls transfer the load to the sides of the race which is a lot bigger than the small lip on the sleeve bearings. At some point WH used B&S engines that didn't have ball bearings on the crank. to accommodate the end loading they put a steel plate over the crankshaft that was against the engine housing/block and was notched against a pin so it wouldn't rotate...Steel plate needed as block were aluminum alloy like your M18. Next came ball bearing then the manual PTO. The bearing stopped the end loading from going against the sleeve bearing in the engine. When I stops snowing I will get you the part number for the bearing WH used. the plate you could easily fabricate.. issue is will there be enough crank left for your manual PTO....
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2 pointsIt must have been heartbreaking to have to part with such a collection , especially because of a divorce. Makes me sad for someone to have to go through that.
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2 pointsMight just as well grab it, so you stay in trouble... instead of getting into it twice!
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2 pointsCould go a few different ways. I'll send you a p.m. in 2 or 3 hours.
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2 points@Stepney have a Happy Birthday and enjoy your Day. don‘t get the other Thread displayed before. swaped over!
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2 points@Stepney @Racinbob I'm always amazed at the details yall experts can pick out of a picture to help identify the year of a tractor @Daddy Don @fescuevona @HandyProfessor @dclarke @Chase~N~Dreams Ya'll are the closest to it, its up on the Oklahoma/Kansas Border.
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2 pointsLooks fun! Are we doing something about that big glob of yellow someone spilled on the engine?
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2 pointsA shaft seal can be damaged just passing over the groove for the lock ring that holds the drum on. I have used masking tape over the groove to prevent damage and use the brake drum as a slide hammer to start the seal squarely in position.
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2 points@ELET Productions it lets you post as many as you like and unlimited downloads per day. Also helps keeps the lights on here and ad free. You also get the secret handshake and decoder ring! The vids are out of the park!
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2 pointsNot a pressure buildup. The shifter isn't sealed. I'd say what Eric said or the seal was damaged when it was installed, Also check the shaft for excessive wear or a bad bearing.
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2 points@ELET Productions go here to become a supporter: https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/
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2 points
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2 pointsI know 2 muskrat recipes. one has you clean him Attach him to a cedar plank. Spice him with several seasonings cook in front of a hot fire. Then toss the muskrat and serve the plank, or this one.
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2 pointsLucky for me Trina has them trained pretty well. Board? No not really. Twisted and immature? Yes definitely!!
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2 pointsMy nephew got his first house. I thought I would give him his first tractor with some parts I had lying around.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points