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Getting just a LITTLE cabin fever so decide to make a Wheel Horse shop clock out of an old engine shroud and discarded wall clock. Mission was to not buy anything (leave home) and getter done..... Happy with the results..... plus I can now tell what time it is in the shop at a glance.....

Had to find something to do before SWMBO found something for me. Had a load of wood lying, from my mate's new place over the border in Scotland. So out with chainsaw, sawbench and splitter. Can't split the big stuff yet. No room. The wood covered in the cage is for next winter. What we call Cyprus Leylandi. Kind of fir and needs at least two years before use. These two were not much help. Just sat and watched. There's more split stacked under the kitchen window and were the telegraph pole kindling is stored. Now I'll have to find something else to avoid SWMBO's list.

Today i practiced social distancing in the driveway. I dug up the toplayer of gravel with the FEL sorry didnt take a pic. Then hooked up the york rake behind the 856 and leveled it off.

Here's a few more pictures.

I have a new old stock set of blades for my RJ Wheel Horse mower deck that I am going to put on today. Taking off my front CBR-32 cutter bar and putting on my RJ mower deck. new blades I had in reserve I bought years ago. Interestingly Toro still has the RJ. RMR -32 mower deck blades. (Kit #6005). For sale in inventory. Just $190.00 for four blades!!!

well I just got back with it, 7 hours round trip. he did show me that it will run with starter fluid, it was pouring the rain when I got there and I backed into it and broke one of the tail lights. may need some paint here and there but I think it was worth the trip. he gave me the manual for it also.don't know much about them but I think it will serve my purpose for a garden tractor once I get it running. I have $300 in it the way it sets now,check out the hillbilly cup holder.

That 312-8 was my first one and new since 1989 , lasted longer than my ex wife of 20 years, oh well at least the 312 still loves me.

I decided today to remove the instrument cluster from my 1984 El Camino . I took pictures of each step for your view pleasure . I am not sure they are in order since I am still trying to figure Windows 10 . The goal of the removal was to find the item number of the printed circuit , so a new one could be ordered . Don't laugh to hard Skunky @squonk and @DougC . It a long 2 hour battle with metric and standard screws. Has anyone used a plastic welding do hickey from HF ? Yes there are breaks and cracks in the 36 year plastic.

I practised social distancing as well as having gloves on. Was about 6 feet back from the road working on the yard when the neighbor drove by and waved to him with a gloved hand. Can't be too careful these days.

Depending what your trying to do, the way I was taught to do plastic welding on antique snowmobiles, was to use a pointed solder gun. Something real hot but controllable. We would use a 'sacrificial' piece of the same plastic that couldnt be seen easily. V notch it out with a file, and remelt and add in the plastic .. like TIG welding, almost a little easier on the eyes.. Sounds nuts, but it has never failed .. And I own an '85 F150 with a plastic fantastic dash .. i can speak to that.

Doing today also my Lockdown Job, firstly i reworked the Tillerengine with a centrifugal than i cooked the Chain in an old Pot to remove the old Grease and put if to cooling in another, but what i found changes my decision to order immediately a complete new Chain. after dryed and removed all the old Grease, i see several damages on the Chain, they be allready hidden in the Grease. So more time to spend for the new Chain.

Hey, is it just me, or does that look like @squonk waiting at the bus stop at the show? Maybe that isn’t a beard at all, but Corona protection!

Hone, rering and assembly is mostly complete. I’ll wet sand the head for flatness and the new head gasket is due to the parts store in the morning. I’ll throw some new fuel line on Steve too, I found some cracking along the way.

The bird house is hung! The field is still very wet!

@Ed Kennell @formariz @The Tool Crib @PeacemakerJack We might have ourselves a wood worker! I’ve done all the saw work under “my boss’ supervision”.

Clock will probably have bad timing.

Really don't worry about 1 or 1-1/8'. I asked a few years ago on here if any one had actually broken and axle excluding high HP pullers and Duals the answer was no.

my eye sight has deteriorated could you please send that to my address so I can get a better look ? i will provide address thank you in advance

Decided to part with this one. Went to a good buddy here on the square..

A little clearance for the valve spring keepers and we have a new tool!

Good grief...old guy! Can someone please make a clock using this for Johnny

We’re working on shingles now out of the shop’s pop can bin! this sucker is heavy!

Thank you Gentlemen for the great response and approval you gave me impetus to do a final rendition so here it is ……...

I'm never going to get used to you guys naming horses. C-81 looks good Kevin.

Swapped out the steering column today. The top is the ross box I got with the tractor and below is what came out. Has to be $30 worth of JB Weld on there. I see now why @scottbrucea you bought another steering box. You weren’t kidding about it being cobbled together. It’s all back to the way it should be now.

Great work you do, save that Car. i like the old Vehicle Shapes.❤️ independently if it’s a Desoto or a Ford mod.A or a Hispano Suiza J12...😍 This Cars have still character !

Mr. Prine seems to be on the mend, thank goodness. Jeff Baxter had a nice write up in the Northrup Grumman magazine. Not bad for a hippie. https://now.northropgrumman.com/from-music-to-missile-defense-the-very-interesting-life-of-jeff-baxter He is on steel guitar in this cut from Steely Dan's second album.

My pleasure. I was 14 years old when I bought the Chrysler that fender came from. 60 years later it has finally found its way onto a car that needed it. I am not a hoarder, I just can't think of throwing away anything that is useful and isn't taking up too much space.

Just be sure to change gloves after each wave. Remember they're disposable.......

You'll fit right in around here just fine..

What the hec are those pointy black things and where are the numbers to actually know what time it is?

Nice score. I'm sure with a little TLC and some short $ into parts you will have a reliable runner...... As for the Hillbilly Cup Holder........it looks poorly designed to me....the angle of the dangle looks "spilly" to me. That being said.....if the preference is for cold brews sold in 30-racks then perhaps after a strong first pull off a 12oz can the lower profile of said 12oz can might allow for it to stay in place........but I still have my concerns. Again, nice score for the price.

Man that is great ! one word you might tell her is be careful and watch them fingers god only gives us 10!! I want to see some projects!

Another Cummins Dodge owner here... Great engine. Best truck I've had since my old '83 F150 with the 300 straight six and 3-on-the-tree. A few things to know about the Dodges... Some of them have a "silencer" ring in the turbo intake to minimize turbo whistle. It was added at the request of Dodge, not a standard Cummins part. A lot of owners have taken them out over the years, but some may still have them. It's a plastic ring snapped into the inlet side of the turbo. Now, a lot of us know what happens to a lot of plastics exposed to heat over time -- if they don't melt, they slowly become brittle. Not what you want on the inlet side of a turbo if it cracks or breaks. I'd recommend taking it out, if it's there. Easy to spot; take the inlet duct hose off the turbo and either there's a plastic ring in there or there's nothing but metal. If you swap in a manual, don't shift to 5th below 1500RPM when loaded. And stay reasonably close to it unloaded. Seems to be a bit hard on the 5th gear synchro otherwise... the torque from that engine is serious! The factory exhaust or factory-style replacements are adequate but not great for either economy or noise reduction. When mine gave in to rust, I replaced it with a bolt-on system that increased the diameter by an inch. (It's necked-down to a standard flange to bolt up to the turbo outlet.) The muffler is a basic "commercial" model which is nothing but a big empty resonator can with a hole-punched cylindrical baffle that's more holes than solid. Gets a few more MPG on average, and turbo spool-up is more responsive It's noisier at the tailpipe, but actually quieter in the cab due to a change in resonance. Lots cheaper and better sounding than the fancy "performance" exhausts and mufflers, and will probably last longer. The intake heater is hard on the electrical system. If you're going to have an alternator failure, expect it to happen in cold weather when it has to work extra hard to recharge the batteries after running the intake heater plus turning over a cold engine. And there's a control circuit for the heater system that can be wonky and pop its fuse due to a short-term high current draw. Replacing that fuse with a self-resetting breaker seems to be the fix. This is a Dodge problem; apparently the Cummins specs call for a more robust and isolated circuit, but Dodge went cheap and used a standard automotive fuse setup in the electrical block. There's a vacuum pump on the left side of the engine, in front, that develops a minor oil leak around the power steering pump's shaft that drives it. It causes oil to be flung all over the front of the engine bay and makes it look like there's a terrible leak somewhere. It's also the leading cause of the truck "marking its territory" from an oil drip near the left front axle. It's just annoying, not catastrophic like it might look or an inexperienced shop might try to tell you. There are shaft seal replacement kits; you don't even have to replace the pump like some may tell you. Or you can leave it alone if you don't worry about the mess. The truck will probably burn more oil than it can leak from the pump seal over the course of an oil change interval. Some of these trucks have what's supposed to be a load-sensitive brake proportioning valve at the rear suspension. It doesn't do a whole lot of good, and it will eventually rust and leak. And it's no longer available. There's a proportioning valve eliminator kit that will make the necessary connections between the chassis and axle hardlines and the flexible line between them, leaving you with a functioning conventional brake system. Like any diesel, cold weather isn't exactly a bad problem, but you'll curse the poorer fuel economy and more sluggish performance that comes with it. Nothing like a 40 degree day in an otherwise frigid stretch to remind you what the Cummins' "normal" performance is like. It's kind of like a grumpy old horse in the cold weather, and an eager young workhorse when it's warm. Everything mechanical is generally easy to access and work on. Quite possibly the absolute worst part to have to change is the heater core, because you have to tear apart most of the dashboard to get to it. Fortunately, that's probably been done on most any surviving truck, because the factory heater cores tended to give up after 10 or 15 years, and the aftermarket replacements are usually better made. The previous owner of my truck did that job himself... In my driveway... And I didn't envy him.

I’m actually shocked at the length some will go to “fix” something. The whole bottom is sleeved in pvc pipe and resin’ed together. I’m speechless.

My personal Favorite is a Whippet Mod.98. but non reworked as a Hot Rod, i would keep it in original Shape, because i like this Silhouette 👍😍

I have several tins in storage that are waiting for clocks. I have one Kohler Twin shroud that will be the first. Nice job.

People have been known to say that about me.... Roughly ZERO times..

Looks great! I’m sure one would look great in my shop too! Might just borrow the idea with this parts engine... I’m sure my wife wouldn’t miss a clock in the living room!

Didn’t think I would be either... 6 days of bathing suit weather and 13 lbs later, I’m a sailor with an eating problem!

How about giving the guy on the left a shave?

We were to embark out of Boston on May 8, but our cruise line has voluntarily suspended all cruising until May 10 now. Hope that bug is dead soon, we have a 125% credit to use up before the end of 2022! I guess that’s another week of workin’ on tractors!

There's a lot of misinformation and propaganda out there right now. Some sources of that story are saying it's readable genetic material but is NOT the live virus.

I wouldn't let the door hit you the butt! Go get it! Randy

Just curious, why take the belt guard off to install a new air filter? The belt guard has two functions; 1. to protect the operator from injury 2. to support the drive belt when the clutch is depressed. This prevents the belt from contacting the engine pulley and allows the belt to stop so the transmission gears can be shifted. The tractor transmission can not be operated without the drive belt guard in working order and in place.

this will be my first one

We’re now up to date and I’m giving Steve a little re-ring refresh. 7 years ago I put together my first Kohler and strayed away from all advice to have the crank turned since the original rod was knocking bad. I got a couple hours’ run time out of that little engine before it started knocking something terrible again. Since then, I’ve used that head for a project, the recoil for another, fuel pump for Putt Putt, etc. last night I popped the piston out and plan to check bore of Steve, check end gaps of the slightly used rings, hone the cylinder then reassemble if things are within spec.

Received the section today along with tail light bracket. Was going to go fishing but just had to see if the fender could be made usable again. Many thanks again to 953 nut for making this possible. I am one happy camper. As a refresher this is what I started with. The radius of fenders didn't match. So a pie shaped section was remove just above the bead and the radius changed. Also the pieces were section diagonally to better blend them together. And this is where the project stands as of now. A couple of rust spots need to be replaced but they won't be visible. And a photo from the back.

3M Super Weather Strip Adhesive is what you want to use. Clean and dry both surfaces then apply and position. You can move it around and adjust it till your satisfied then walk away for a few hours and it's a done deal' I used it all the time at the GM Dealership for rubber anything that needs glued down. You can get it at NAPA in a tube like toothpaste. Also great for things like transmission pan and engine oil pan gaskets that they like to wad up and toss in a box.