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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/25/2020 in Posts
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12 pointsOur dog Meeha/Mirror took us for a jaunt through the forest this evening. So peaceful. Here's a few pics and a couple videos. All of you watch them... Often. Over and over. It's good for you. And share with everyone you know. It's good for them too. Woodpecker drinking fountain A giant white pine Turkey tracks
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11 pointsI went out and had a nice day on the REO...did a couple of videos, but the batteries are in need of replacement. I will do them again with new batteries. Anyway, I filled up the gas tank...checked the oil...looked over all the controls...2 pulls and it was running sweet. Here is a few pictures of me on this...we had a 60 F day today.
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10 pointsAttached you will find two sheets of TIPS on mounting Tires and Tubes on your tractors. These came from Morrow Tire in Slater, Missouri where I have bought tires for my Wheel Horse tractors over the years.
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8 pointsHere is a couple more vintage pics from circa 1998, my daughter and my father. 1975 B-80 and 1996 314-8.
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6 points
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6 points
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5 pointsAfter changing tires for 25 years, I let the young guys do it
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5 pointsA couple of other things. When you are seating the bead take the valve core out. It can restrict airflow and make it hard to get the tire to seal initially. Another thing that can help get that initial seal is wrapping a ratchet strap around the center of the tread and cinching it down a little to bow out the tire. With tubes, always use some kind of powder lubricant on the tube. After you've put the tube inside the tire, but before you've put the second bead on, remove the valve core and inflate and deflate the tube a few times to make sure there are no wrinkles in it. If a wrinkle gets trapped in there it will eventually cause the tube to wear through.
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5 pointsThanks to the unexpected staycation (going on week 2), I was able to complete a couple major indoor projects that we wanted to get done (master bathroom and main bathroom renovations). However, today I had enough of the inside work and needed to get out and do something with the WH's. I removed the front blade from the 418-A and put on a Brinly plow that came with the 520-H donor tractor that I picked up last fall. It was a little wet, but I decided to plow the garden anyway. Here's a pic and a little slow motion garden plowing drive by. Garden_Plowing_Slow_Motion_Drive_By_3-24-20.mp4
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5 points120 grit would work to shine it up. A Scotchbrite pad a on a grinder also works really well to knock the rust off of the share. The final shine on mine came from a few 1/4 mile long passes in some clay/loam mix soil. It's not often that I get to plow in such soil & end up with an almost chrome appearance on the plow, but it sure looks cool when it happens. Around home sandy soil is more of the norm, sand still puts a shine on but the share will have little more of a dull finish.
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4 points
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4 pointsYer a sally Skunk... did that once and they charged me 10 bucks. Wouldn't get out of bed for that. Even greased the the tech another ten for not marring the rims. Took another set in to the same place and got bent over and scratched rims for 40 bucks... wt%??? Talk about inflation and not just the tires! Needless to say the tech did not get a tip. Bought a HF mini for 40 and just did 4 6-12s with no problems. Now money ahead. Best part no scratched rims by an unruly tire monkey! Forgot about the baby powder trick. Thanks for the reminders fellas...Would have made getting the lug staggers I was lookin for (duals) much easier without twisted tubes. Pet peeve is not having the stem perpendicular to the rim. Looks like I got yer OCD Oilwell!
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4 points
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4 pointsThese are for sale locally, cheaper on rims than I can buy a set of Deestones for. I’d rather support local than overseas in this time of need if I can help it.
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4 pointsI've used a tiller on my C-160 auto, but the C-160 with an 8-speed trans is better suited to maintain a constant slow speed. With the c-160 AUTO, there is often a speed control issue involving the BROKEN TAB on FRICTION SHAFT on the outside of the hoodstand. This shaft MUST be lockled down by this bolt, otherwise, the control mechanism will be free to FLOAT back and forth. So, check this out. If the weld is broken, it can be weld-repaired in place, without removing it from the hoodstand.
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4 pointsI've had the opportunity to work on an export Harley & may understand why you don't like them. The export model that I worked on was so de-tuned and choked off that it didn't have enough power to get out of its own way. After changing the exhaust, air cleaner, cam shaft & ignition I had it pumping out more horse power than your van has. I'm not saying that they are the best motorcycle on the market because there are definitely more reliable bikes. To me it's just something about their ride and the sound, Ohh that beautiful sound. Maybe that's why they used the advertising slogan "If I have to explain it, you wouldn't understand".
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3 pointsHey guys I was given an M18 vertical engine today. I don't have anything that will take a vertical. Is their anything on this worth saving? I think a lot of the parts will interchange with the Horizontal engines. I read on here about guys having problems finding parts for their 18 hp kohlers. Just tossing it out to see if anyone wants anything off of it before I set it to the road.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsNICE MOCCASINS!!! Getting on it is one thing. Getting off of it is another matter entirely! You look awesome on it! My new key switch for my RER came in today @D_Mac
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3 pointsdish soap on the bead is a must! I always mix mine with water though I used to use baby powder in the tire and on the tube on my race bikes to prevent chafing at the lower pressures i was using depending on the terrain for the event
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3 pointsThe seal came in yesterday (National Seal #312518) The brake drum slid right off luckily! The old seal came out relatively easy, I checked for play in the shaft and there’s none. Installed the new seal and topped off the transmission oil. Reassembled everything and no more leak!👍Thanks again for those who chimed in to help.
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3 pointsI would get those if the price is right Kev. Loaded or with weights they'll work fine last a long time. Check the offset on those rims tho looks awfully deep …. IDK might just be the pic. Cool vid @Andy N. ….you just scored yourself an invite to plow day! Hey Dan is that yer wallet layin ther in Jack's pic???
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3 pointsI agree with Dan. If you look closely at the tires I have on GhostRider, they are about the same as those. I haven’t had any complaints with them concerning traction. If those are a good price Kevin...go for it! We love those AG’s on our GT’s😁 “I never met a set of AG’s I didn’t like!”—😆
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3 pointsI would think that those would work out good Kevin. The sharper lugs should give a good bite in the field.
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3 pointsI had a belt that was supposedly original to my tiller which is 30 years old and it would kick off for no apparent reason. I found a new old stock belt, Wheel Horse1599 on EBAY for less than $30.00 with shipping and it works great. Used the tiller for two hours last week with no issues. I like the NOS stuff when buying from a reputable person or dealer. Keep working on it and you'll figure it out.
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3 pointsSystem of a Down - Chop Suey! was on the radio a while back. Rylee loves her music rockin’ and loud. Bose stereo in the truck, cranked past 10! I told her when it came on, if she could recite the song all the way through after listening to it, I’d give her a dollar. I’m still a dollar rich!
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3 points
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3 pointsWell it was a success. I got time to work on it this past Sunday afternoon. I leak tested it before installation. There is gas in it in that pic with the shut off valve installed. The oil bottle I had was blue. It's not pretty but it worked. I used a small pointed tip to make a groove in the seam first then filled it with the plastic using the triangular tip which worked well but I think I a little hotter iron would work better. The plastic rod seemed to want to stick to it. Thanks again for all the help and advice. Case closed. On to the next project. Todd
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3 points@JCM Jim did you see that the State of Maine put some Free Fishing Weeks out to get people outdoors? No license needed for inland freshwater until April 30th.
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3 pointsThis is the one I put on my 95 a couple years back... You will have to make brackets but other that that it was 99% identical to my Anniversary 520H seat and a bit softer to boot also has provisions for the factory arm rests ...https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_8258_8258 ... The other seat I would recommend from TSC or NT is the "Kubota" replacement from Black Talon ... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200490177_200490177... JMHO these 2 look the closest as a factory replacements with out the price. Also here's a shorter back version that @cleat likes... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200519222_200519222. Pic 3 is the Toro seat on my 96.
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3 pointsWith my OCD impulses satisfied, I welded up the hitch. I am not a welder. I can make a weld pretty or I can make a weld strong, but I struggle with doing both at the same time. This was where my father's ghost gave me his second advice for the day: "The ugliest weld in the world is the one that fails and leaves your $%#@ laying all over the #$%& road." I cranked it up and burned it in good. When I was done I christened it with the phrase that man law states must be muttered any time you weld something, hook up a trailer, or tie anything down: "Well, that ain't going nowhere." I put on the loop for the safety chains and called it a night. Just needs some primer and it will be ready to put on the trailer.
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3 points
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3 pointsI'm not a huge fan of Ute's, they don't hold enough stuff and in the Scottish weather is a nuisance having everything out in the open. My utility vehicle of choice is the humble van. Currently I have a short wheelbase Ford transit - want something longer when it comes time for a replacement. I can carry stuff all over the place in this and it never gets wet, don't have to mess around with tarpaulins etc. It's only a 2.2 litre engine making about 85hp but it goes fast enough even fully loaded.
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3 pointsI always thought you guys had the coolest rides, hard to beat a UTE as a unique Street Rod.
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2 pointsWell, I’m in the new fandangled brotherhood of Blackhoods, I suppose! This already has a steel fender pan and the FEL makes the hood look most proportionate. I’m doing a base line on this. The front axle is very tight, spindles are well greased and one tie rod is a bit loose but nothing to worry about. There is one outer wheel bearing that is sloppy, so I’ll add that to a needed list. I am going to remove the hood for safe keeping for a bit. There’s a bit of a miss that I plan to diagnose and other than fluids, this is a good solid tractor. @jay bee told @zekepiks that I was looking for a FEL and Skip responded to me via Redsquare. I appreciate them both! I have yet to meet Jay Bee, but Skip is a very nice man and was as up front and honest as he possibly could be with everything. I’m tickled Pink!
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2 pointsCannot sleep, the quarantine today moves me arround.. 🙄🤔😎 Btw. Great work. Does it work as expected? edit - aaah seen it, youre onhydro!👍 Have some Fun with your Loader and Welcome to the „Loader Club“ ...😎 i worked yesterday on my Tiller to disassemble, but hackstar rusted heavy on. maybe will loosen it today with some Heat..
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2 pointsWish I lived closer, I would take that engine for parts. I have thought about converting my KT 17 to electronic ignition. The coil, coil mount and flywheel should fit. The stator, and voltage regulator should fit any kohler. Carb and air cleaner assembly can be used with some modifications. I believe these engines can be flipped for use horizontally, but only if used with an electric clutch. Part it out and sell the parts. Just my two cents. Bill
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2 pointsThat's great Steve. I'll bet you're chomping at the bit waiting for the grass to grow.
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2 pointsThat used to be my tip as well, but I put new tires on my Horse right after I got it and it would have cost me $80 to do that. Doing it yourself really isn't that hard if you've got the right tools.
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2 pointsId check a local upholstery shop i had a motor cycle seat done for a 87 Yamaha radian i use to own and the guy did new foam and re wrapped it. It was perdy and only $75.
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2 pointsCool deal. I tossed some sea foam in the tank the other night too. I’ll run the whole fuel system dry then inspect it. There’s a new electric fuel pump under the seat.
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2 pointsI actually came across one of your posts containing those pictures when researching. The tab is in tact and the bolt is tight. This is pretty firm soil and having bamboo roots running across doesn’t help either. I might have to put together my one geared WH and use it for this.. It is less noticeable when doing other work but only because I’m not having to move at snail speed. I might need weights. I’ve been keeping my eye out for a set. I’ve not thought of going in reverse.. I would think that the tractor would compact the dirt that you just tilled. The belt I have is probably older than I am so I will get one ordered. Thanks guys!
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2 points1990onan520-h, you can decide on what is comfortable and expense wise, i have 3 of these , got them agri supply , https://www.agrisupply.com/universal-tractor-seat/p/14119/?utm_source=Shopzilla&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=MerchAdv&zmam=77232640&zmas=1&zmac=15&zmap=14119, look at the lower part of the ad for bolt hole set up , exact w/h bolt pattern , pricing is also very good , your choice , pete
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2 pointsThanks to all! I got my GT-14 fitted with the mule drive and 36'' belly mower. Took it out for its first actual mow this week. Pretty excited. Thanks
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2 pointsI figure your hydro runs okay when not tilling? I have used both manual and hydro to till and one thing that helps control the machine is weight. I use 100 lbs of wheel weight and put 50 lbs on the front. Makes a big difference. On the hydro you need to keep the RPM up so it works correctly. I prefer the hydro with a hand control. There are times I am even using reverse to go super slow. It can be tricky, mostly the tiller will push the machine.
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2 points
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2 pointsI had one the other day at work I swapped out that was a 2013 battery. Can’t believe it lasted that long. Was the factory battery with the assembly technician’s markings still on it.
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2 pointsRemove the 3/8" bolt holding the drum on. It should slide off pretty easy if it has leaked for awhile. Can be done from outside. Dig out the seal with a pick. screw driver or put a small screw into it an pull that.
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2 points