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Picked up this 417-8. Has 1300 on the clock but runs smooth and quiet. Came with thrower and 48” deck. Has electric lift also. Fixed a small oil leak that was coming from the pressure switch that I removed and just plugged. This brings my total to 6. Now I have a 417-8, 417A, 312-8, 416-8, 518H, and C-145 with Onan 18 on it. Not a bad little start to a crazy addiction.

Here is my 1971 Bronco 14.

Anyone have any information on these double disk set's? How rare are they, I have never seen another set before. I found these and thought it would be neat to restore. When I started trying to find info on them I drew a blank. I figure you guys that go to the big show and have been into collecting WH stuff would know. I am anxious to try them in the garden this year. Would like to pull them with a tractor from the time period they were built for. The wheels on the sides I added and are not original to the set. They were cutting up the yard when I was pulling it around. Just bolted on.

We popped 60 taps in my buddies forest the other day, but I forgot to grab pictures. In less than 24 hours, 70 gallons of sap were pulled out of the woods. I’ve been bedridden the last day and haven’t made it over to see the operation, but here’s an update via email. Last year, we talked about using reverses osmosis (RO) to filter out the clean water and keep the “junk” water, or sugar water. My buddy Josh put together a new RO system, doubling up two pumps inline to achieve 60 psi at the filters. The “junk” water goes back into the blue drum and the clean water was being collected in the small bucket for testing. A side by side comparison on the stove top proved that the clean water boiled down to nothing, while the sugar water turned to 7 or 8 tablespoons of syrup!

Hard to forget what they look like .. as I was telling the story to EB. We had a semi local old mower shop with a bunch of outbuildings. A crate of those very same brackets fell through a rotten shelf and landed on me.. They aren't light. Hard to forget. Shall we say, your picture hit me like a ton of bricks..

Prolly got the Corona virus then... take two more and call me in the morning...

I just typed the model # into google and see that a guy in PA has one. So not the only one. A person responded that it was made for the 953 to pull. The smaller tractors didn't have the muscle to work it. Kinda neat.....So are you a stoned farmer?

Treat yourself, upgrade to first and drink the entire flight

This thing can plow 3 foot of snow after that I have to put the chains on.

Frequently we field questions about safety switches and many times the answers given may or may not be correct for the particular Wheel Horse we are talking about. For accurate information it is best to refer to the “Demystification Guide” or electrical drawings for the specific model and year tractor. There is no one size fits all answer, I will attempt to provide a little food for thought and some general information on the subject. First, we need to understand how various switches receive their names. The switches used in safety systems are momentary switches, if no force is applied to them, they return to their “Normal” position. That would be the same condition (open or closed) that they had when they were on the shelf ready to be installed. Some will be NO (normally open) and some will be NC (normally closed). In the case of PTO switches there are two switches ganged together. The seat switch and half of the PTO switch are used in the ignition circuit. The second half of the PTO switch is in the starter circuit. As an example, the Seat and PTO safety switches for a Magneto or Trigger Ignition system are designed to ground out the magneto if the PTO is engaged and there is no driver in the seat. These switches are in series. The seat switch is a N.C. (normally closed) switch which opens when weight is placed on the seat. The half of the PTO switch that is in the ignition circuit is N.O. (normally open) which is open when disengaged and will close when engaged. With the PTO switch closed and no weight in the seat the magneto will be grounded and the engine will stop running. With the PTO disengaged the seat switch will have no effect. If the tractor has a Battery Ignition system the PTO and Seat safety switches are wired to interrupt the power from the ignition switch to the ignition coil when the PTO is engaged and there is no driver in the seat. These switches are in parallel. The seat switch is a N.O. (normally open) switch and will close when weight is on the seat. The half of the PTO switch that is used for ignition is N.C. (normally closed) and opens when the PTO is engaged. Both of these switches receive power from the ignition switch “I” terminal and either one being closed will pass the power on to the ignition coil. If the PTO is engaged that switch will open, as long as there is weight in the seat the engine will continue to run because the Seat switch will be closed. If the weight is removed from the seat while the PTO is engaged the engine will stop. If the PTO is disengaged the seat switch has no effect. Looking at the drawings below should clarify this muddy issue.

854 before After

Just thought that i would share what is probably my favorite pic of my little Rat Rod.

Now here is a double. This was at Scott's M&G some years ago.

What was her...never mind family site!

Let me see if I have a couple pictures 1076 before. After 400 Suburban before After Mclean 4 wheel tractor before After Raider 12 before After 1045D before. After

Have a great Day👍

In my case just personal preference, some of my tractors have stacks and others have a muffler. I like the looks with a stack But then, this is a good look too

I like the two furrow plough.

Bagger chute 'hooks'. Went on the end of the fabric bag from a 1970s Snapper push mower. 99.99% it's Snapper anyway. The Toro of that era had a rope-tie contraption to secure the bag. LawnBoy's were square .. and green. Cant find much for a picture but this shows one.

I'm hoping this works here is my snow beast it now has a tall shute

No restorations in this set of pics, but the first day we got the “new” tractors running together in late June of 2018. Some pretty strong candidates for biggest smiles, in proportion to head size at least

Hey @oldredrider! Good to see you around buddy! I'll try to call you sometime. We'll be coming up your way later this month and will come out to see you for a few. Don't you wish I didn't know where you live! See ya soon brother!!!

Been a Toolmaker for the last 36 years.....still learning something everyday!!

A good paint job is 90% prep and 10% paint. Mediocre paint on with great prep will look 100 times better than great paint on mediocre prep. Lowe's, Ace Hardware, and Walmart all sell it....at least they do here.

Grab a 12volt test light. Probe the negative side of the coil. It should flash/blink while cranking. If it stays lit, points. No light at all, bad coil or no power to it.

I got the door frame welded up this afternoon in a rare window of fine, warm weather. I will fabricate the door tomorrow and then decide on a covering for it. I'm leaning towards 3mm steel plate rather than thin galvanized sheet. There will be less noise from it flexing in the wind and it will be more secure. Mick

Don't forget to add some lyme disease.

These things here Randy...http://snowblowerimpellerkit.com/ looks like they went up abit they were 30 clams & free ship... maybe from another seller??? All over fleabay & the jungle site. I just couldn't see paying that when I can easily make them …. been hanging out with Dan @Achto too much!

I drilled and tapped a zerk in the tranny casting to help keep some grease on that pin. Looks like you are real handy with a lathe Rod! We haven't a clue where you are going Dells...what's worse is you don't have a clue either! Every body else kinda got it the it's just the pin that is SS. Aint you got a wheel barrow to roll???

Three years ago I brought home my father's 312-8 and always struggled with the choke and throttle. Back in January there was a thread discussing choke and throttle cables which encouraged me to check the ones on my horse. I pulled them out and lubricated them. Today I fired up the tractor and am very happy with how smoothy the cables are operating. They worked so well I thought they were disconnected. I checked the choke linkage to be sure it was moving. Liquid wrench to loosen and then a bit of oil worked in drop by drop. RS was a great help in this improvement.

Hey EB. No I haven’t soaked it. It was so full of crud that looked like mud when I got it that it makes me wonder what the poor thing has been through! I found a new complete carb along with tuneup kit for $50 on fleabay, so I figured I’d give it a shot. The only thing about that carb is the fuel adjustment is plugged off like all other EPA compliant stuff. I’ll probably have to remove the cap to adjust it if needed. At least I know it runs, just not getting enough fuel to maintain a consistent idle. If you look into the throat of the carb, you can see a spray of fuel pulsing. Should be here next Mon and I’ll give it a shot!

If your going to use rattle cans like many of us do get yourself one of these.You'll be very happy you did. They are less than $5 and the best thing since Pampers.

And I will add this as I always do when the subject of painting comes up. Breathing protection is a must. Do not paint without adequate protection. If you can smell it, you are breathing it. Some paints, especially those with hardeners and isocyanates can lead to serious illness or even death. Isocyanates are similar to crazy glue. Imagine getting that into your lungs. This is not to scare you, but just to remind you that adequate breathing protection is a must.

I have these two rear engine riders. I dont want to sell them but as some of you know my health issues have me considering letting them go. One is a Work Horse 832. The other is a RR-65 Wheel Horse REO Lawn Skiff. Both machines run and work as they should. Both in nice shape for their age. That being said they are what they are ... rear engine riders that their only use is to mow small yards. You dont run across these everyday is the reason why I hang on to them. The 832 if you Google it the only pictures of ones that come up are mine and another one listed here on this forum. The REO is in great shape for being 55 yrs old but in 1965 they didnt think much about safety and I would be leery of selling it to someone who just wants a mower to mow his lawn. Do they have more sentimental value then real money value? I know its easier to come up with a tractors value but what about these little guys ?

Thought i would share a short clip from my YouTube channel of me pushing snow with the old 1967 John Deere 110 round fender. I had been waiting for a good snow. Every year i use a different machine. Next year i may use a Beaver garden tractor. I love the snow my late dad did to. Check out my YouTube click subscribe and tell your friends. I just promoted this forum on every wheelhorse video i have posted. and on my channel you will see a wheelhorse icon on my background photo click it and it will take you to this forum!

I remember seeing this in the original post .. Nice old L series. Late model 'higher output' 7.25 horse. That machine will outlast us all.

At least you remembered to paint the inside of the wheels!

That’ll do just dandy!

Welcome home, Rod! Say, that choke bob looks pretty beat up. I’ll give ya a handful of scribed lines and a metric crescent wrench for that 854 so you don’t have to worry about fixing it up... I’d even be willing to toss in some high fives too!

Stacks are purely for cool factor. Really no other purpose.

You can do that … I am prolly gonna mix it with enough alcohol to kill anything anyway!

I painted a Deere front plate, and it looks ok. I think the paint is fine, it's just I didn't get all of the original paint off and the orange peel is awful. Rustoleum does sell Oliver green, which is close, but I can't seem to track down any kind of reliable source for it. Might just be me.

Quality rattle can paint today is leaps and bounds ahead of what it was not all that long ago. It will never be as good as professional quality automotive paint, but you can do a really good job with it if you take your time. Just make sure you use a quality product and not the cheapest thing on the shelf at the dollar store. I'll give a second vote to the Rustoleum 2X mentioned above.

On my wheelhorse i redid I had a local body shop do most of the tractor but i did the rear end and the motor. I used oven cleaner on the flywheel covers and other tins. Used a wire brush then took the parts and washed them. I put if i remember right 2 coats of primer 3 coats of paint and 2 or 3 coats of clear coat. I used rattle cans. I think i did a fantastic job. at least everyone tells me that. LOL I finished it in 2015.

Ya, I had put it in the implement section a while back when I finished it. Nothing but crickets, might be the only one!!

YOU ARE STILL NOT AS OLD AS ME. HAPPY BIRTHDAY MIKE.

Rodney Burger's (Lawnman_56) Shaw Du All!

Since EB already claimed Patriot, we’ll have to name that one War Horse. It looks like it’s seen a day or two of rough livin’ in the trenches...

Wednesday update: Overhead door installed today.

A good warm spot for the ole bugger