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BEFORE AFTER

Excellent thread idea Daron!!! I don't have a decent before pic of Patriot although here's a video of the day of Trina's first tractor drive ever, on Patriot. When we first got it from @Stepney it was all "patina". Cinnamon has a build thread with it's nastiness in all its glory. Here's some of Trina's Pony before and after. Then the others as they are today. The one on the right is the 1267/1287 mongrel that didn't work out so I disassembled it. Near to far is Pony, Pigpen, Cinnamon and Patriot.

!982 C-125. Before. After. 1978 C-121. The Black Horse. Before. 2nd from left. After. 1979 C-81. Bought part restored.

IRV!!

Tony and pullstart, thank you for the welcome. I replaced the starter solenoid today and I dont know how you guys get to those bolts but I added access holes

Suburban 400 before: After: 657 before: 500 Special before: Combined what was good on both tractors to get to this after (still not 100% complete):

My restoration, just wanted to share...

My dad made three drawbar hitches for our 953/1054 tractors. These attach to the rear angle iron snowplow/dozer hitch and can be used in tandem with the slot hitch as they ride below the slot hitch.

A gift from Rodney Burger when I was in Florida this moth! These little Original Clinton mufflers have a great sound and can be used on your Kohler motors too! Rodney Burger (lawnman_56) had it on his Suburban motor! i am going to use on one of my RJ’s!

You will need to drill holes in the side plates of the blower for the mounting holes of the flange bearings. If you're going that far, might as well check the rear bearing behind the big sprocket too. You can use either 2 hole or 4 hole mount bearings. Don't use the type with a locking collar because room is tight there but use the type with set screws and they'll fit. I can't remember if that shaft is 7/8 or 1 inch but you can find bearings here. Just verify the size of the shaft. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Bearings/Cast-Iron-4-Bolt-Flange-Mount-Bearings/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_Lock_Collar:Set\+Screws Some side to side movement of the auger is normal with the original bushings. It will lock in place with new set screw bearings. Easiest way is to remove the side plates to install the new bearings

The golf saying we go by is “swing hard in case you hit it!” We’ll see how far we get with a plow mule build. There’s the C-81 “Steve” that looks like it would do aright in a furrow, but then again “Stormy” The 1056 already has the plow dog seat with arm rests... and maybe a limited slip in that 6 speed?

I’ve worked off and on all day with no noticeable changes. I’ve been welding up places on the chassis and tub. On the tub, I’ve got welds about every 1/4”. Think I’ll stop there before I blow it full of holes. I think it will hold. I did work on the exhaust. Nothing too loud or noticeable . Emory wanted me to put on loud exhaust and I think this will fit the bill. Might wrap it with heat tape for a hot rod look.

I leave tomorrow for a week of training and the wife saw next week's forecast with 4 scheduled days above 50 degrees so she asked me to unburry her Miata from winter storage so she could drive it those days. I took the Miata for drive around the block and the WH's for a drive around the yard. Beautiful day for both.

WorkHorse 1848 saved from scrap.... Has not run in 10 years. Deck is solid but no belt guards.

Greetings to everybody from Northern Italy. Ended up becoming a WheelHorse fan quite by chance. Was looking for a leaf-vacuum on trailer for my dad's property as raking leaves over 1 hectare at age 86 is back breaking. Found an advert for an E-Z vac ( a rarity here in Northern Italy or in most places in Europe, I reckon). The advert included a WheelHorse C125 with the E-Z Vac. Started reading about WheelHorses (especially on this forum given the breadth of knowledge and advice I found here) and realised that, although the tractor was 40 years old, I had stumbled upon a gold nugget. Purchased both for 850 euros (937 US dollars at 29 february 2020 exchange rate) last week. I attach some pictures. The C125 carries the following Mod number: 01-12K8-91 - according to TractorData it is an 8 speed model built in 1980, I assume that the 91 stands for location and indicates Belgium (I know that a US built tractor will have a 01 as the last two digits). Now comes my question: could a C125 have been built with a Kohler K341 right from the start? The engine on my C125 is clearly a Kohler but is missing the Identification Decal. However the previous owner jotted down the following number on the owner's booklet: K341, Spec: 71179a, Series 1021-7509. As they seem too complete to have been made up I assume they are correct. According to the Kohler's Single Cylinder Service Manual K91-K341 (Fig. 1-2, page 1.3) they seem to indicate the engine is actually a K341 built in 1980. As tractor and engine appear to have the same 1980 "birth date" I assume they came together right from the start. Can anybody confirm whether a C125 was ever built/sold with a K341 engine on it? Apologies for the rambling. Hoping to get an answer.

I thought the weather was very unusual yesterday and last evening when my significant other came home from work I mentioned spending the night in the Bunkhouse. This would be the first overnight stay. Loaded up the old ice fishing sled and Allagash wooden packbasket with essentials, donned the headlamps and trekked into the night looking forward to lighting the Jotul stove and enjoying Happy Hour. It was 40 degrees upon entry and within 2 hours a comfortable 70. I hope you enjoy the pics of my 2018 Christmas present from my sister, even family likes to play jokes on me regarding my occupation. The thermometer is located in the screen porch and questioned if it was accurate, just seems odd.Woke up a 4 am and opened the windows to let some heat out. Spent from 8 pm to 8 am this morning and had a great time, looking forward to Spring but with just a little bit more SEAT time.

Attached the 48 inch deck to my 414 today hit all the grease zerks and had to replace the drive belt for the deck as well. Ready for the mowing season. Still way too muddy around the property and more rain is on the way for next week. Up to 3 inches in two days.

I was put to Wheelhorse 3 or 4 years ago by a trusted small engine repair shop. One of the techs is a former Toro dealer employee. Trina and I needed a tractor that was physically heavier weight for towing loads of rocks for stone walls. We now have 4 running, 3 in project stage. Wheelhorse is reliable, easy to maintain and repair, bull strong. Lots of implements if you desire them. We've done frame off restorations on 2. Mechanical restorations on 3. Other brands are interesting to look at. None are as simple and practical. Ours are built to work hard and we need them to be just so.

I suggest buy them both!!🤗 One to plow the driveway & garden, one for mowing the lawn. Plus it would make a good start on having a heard of Horse's.😊

Gotta have it...warms ya from the inside out

Almost forgot the most important picture.

Last evening after dinner we decided to do another overnight off the grid. The brook is starting to thaw somewhat due to the swings in temperature. Nice to be able to head out to the cabin and spend some time wondering what it must have been like to live like that before all our modern conveniences.Amazing how little hardwood I put through the Jotul stove to keep it a comfortable 70 degrees inside. The temps outside were much different than in January when we stayed in the cabin. Brought some Apple pie @Sparky just in case.

Happy Birthday Chris. I left your cake at the Steam Pageant grounds last night. Better get there soon before the raccoons find it.

I can’t wait to start it up outside and let all of those people who complained about the sound of my woodworking enjoy its mellow sound. Who knows, they might not even notice ...... naaaa, no chance!

It held up quite well. The gear on the pump was approx 4.5in. It went up a bit slow but did the job

I bet it’s gonna sound as quiet as the Yugo that EB thinks I wrangle Horses with!

Now that's pretty cool! How did the starter stand up? I figure turning a PS pump isn't much of a load so it should do fine. As far as replacement carbs, I have a couple and I recently learned that they are not all equal. I have one on my GT-14, one on my CC 1650 and one on my dads C-141. I bought the one for the C-141 probably 2 1/2 years ago and didn't install it up until a year and a half or so ago. It ran alright, but never as good as I thought it should. After a short time, it decided to start flooding over, but the float would free up if you tapped the bowl. I let it sit about a year and came back to it and pulled it apart. It had a POS plastic float in it which had sunk. Definitely not a good carb. I think it was a $9.99 special off of eBay. The other two I have, which were also off of eBay but were around $15 have performed flawlessly. I have no complaints. One of them even came with two different choke rod setups to fit whichever style you have which was nice. I think the cheapo carbs are alright if you don't get the absolute cheapest. Eric, I have found that Evapo-rust in an ultrasonic cleaner does wonders to dirty carburetors. It also seems to soften corrosion up, which might free your carburetor up. I let them soak for a couple hours, turn on the cleaner for around 5 minutes, rinse them off in hot water and let them soak again. How many times I repeat this depends on how bad the carb is. I re-use the Evapo-rust each time.

Detachable front weight. I made this bracket to mount solid on the tractor with a bolt on each side and the bracket butts up to the accessory mounting plate and sits solid against the front of the frame, the weight I slide in left to right and drop a bolt in it and it is solid. Weld are not pretty but will hold fine, I used 1 inch axle shaft to stand the weight out in front a way. Bracket and weight come in at 50 & 1/2 pounds, that should help with that heave cast iron plow. Welds need cleaned up and paint applied yet.

Thanks for all the help so far! I got a number to contact tomorrow for the part! Got a new plug, air & pre-filter along with a drive belt put on, now time to drain the transmission change filter and re-fill

That my friend is a good score! Anybody here would be happy as heck to get that for 10 bucks! Congrats!

Never thought a spindle could look beautiful.

Why not? They probably make good snuggle buddies.

Thanks I think I am getting one today

Happy birthday Chris!! 🎊😆🎊

So far so good on mine once all the bearings and bushings were changed. Haven't had the need to do any supporting of that gearbox and the auger still runs true and straight. It certainly couldn't hurt to do it. If your gearbox has movement while spinning, maybe the auger bushings are worn or the bearing behind the paddle or both. Hopefully not a bent shaft. Changing those ridiculously expensive auger bushings with actual flange bearings is a good upgrade to do along with the support bracket.

HAPPY BORNED ON DAY, @Chris G

I thought about getting one of those. Maybe one from HF just to start off with. Seems as thou I clean about 25 carbs in the spring.

Hap😎py Birthday @Chris G!! Have a wonderful day!!

I use a Gunk soaking kit to clean them. Works quite well with a little patience. I have 2 carbs that have the shafts corrosion welded to the body. Been thinking about an ultrasonic cleaner.

That sure looks like it should have a sweet mellow tone

Yepp.. We're all VERY familiar with Terry. @Vinylguy is one of our site vendors. Great guy!!!

That is correct, I have had a few "mid year" tractors , these were mostly tractors that were supplied with previous year parts until they were depleted then began using the "updated" parts for the actual year model. Pond was not the only company to do this, it was common practice within multiple manufacturers including but not limited to IH on the Cub Cadets. The automotive industry often used this practice as well. In some cases the "updated" differences for a specific model were minute, it could have been anything from a badge change to a complete makeover or a crossover to a model change, as with the Raider 10 specifically the 1-0360 in 1973 had no "Raider" badge although it was still listed as the "Raider" and its sister the 1-0365 was a "No Name" and was identical. In 1974 the Raider 10 was reclassified to a "C series", with a transmission change, and kept the "Raider 10" model (1-0390), in 1975 the Raider 10 was dropped and named C-100 (1-0391). Just my 2 cents As for where I get decals, I have found a couple very good and reasonably priced suppliers for vinyl, Redo Your Horse (www.redoyourhorse.com) and The Decal Store (www.tractordecal.net)

Almost forgot about my wheelhorse treasure. Luckily I beat Rodney to the back row, all the way in the corner. This little beauty was laying on top of a pile of misc crap. Asked the guy what he wanted for it and he said “I need to get at least $10 for that”. I didn’t even try to haggle the price.

PM me your address I will mail you some. i bought a bag from McMaster.

Initially we were gonna go that route and get a newer one but she talked me outta it because the older ones are easier to work on than the new ones

I worked on stretching the hood some tonight. Added 12” to it. Talk about a hood that goes on forever! My new welder like to blow through sheet metal at its lowest setting. Might just rust up the new stuff, sand down and coat with linseed oil and not worry about finish welding and bodywork. Might be the “Frankenrod”.

Hopefully your welds are better than your tacks

More pictures from this weeks Florida Flywheelers Show and Swap IMG_0437.MOV IMG_0437.MOV meet. IMG_0478.MOV IMG_0479.MOV IMG_0482.MOV IMG_0484.MOV IMG_0493.MOV IMG_0497.MOV IMG_0498.MOV IMG_0500.MOV IMG_0507.MOV IMG_0499.MOV

Like was said before, if your not concerned about being all original it might be easier to swap in a new motor like a Kohler K181 (8 hp). This is my 657 which is pretty much identicle to your 656, it has a Kohler 8hp pull start under the hood now and fits perfectly.