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The items came home with me along with a few other tools that were on the tray.

I had been sitting on this deal for a while. A buddy found a salvage yard near his work about 3 hours away that luckily keeps old iron that they may think has value. He got a Cub Cadet 70, an oddball, and I got the 856. It will have to have the correct steering wheel, new tires on the front and some general love and care. All in all, I think we both did well! If I told you what we paid, I’d have to wear a mask! We were able to buy them by the pound rather than their real value!! Any ideas what his oddball is?

it's not a porter cable, it's dura corp/lawn master which was right after porter cable sold off its tractor line, yours is much more uncommon! it's the basically the same tractor with a different hood. most likely a 1960 or 1961.

I just picked up this super a with ice loader for 1600.ride and drive , new hydraulic hoses and hard lines, big thing is gonna need some tires in a year or so

IDK if my opinion will be shared but if you got that saw fairly cheap (price you were very comfortable with) then like Eric said above get a 18-20" bar and chain and use it when you need it or trade it for something smaller and better suited to your needs, I have 2 Dolmar saws 1 18" 1 20" bar and then a Poulan Wildthing with a 14" bar does everything I need to do kinda like the horse one for each unique job.

Maine is the most heavily forested state in the nation. We ARE logging. Stihl is - hands down - THE chain saw. There are other great brands but none can compare to the reliability and longevity of Stihl as a whole. Logging chain is NOT better than a modern "anti-kickback" chain. I learned just recently that there are arborists who have switched to anti-kick for trimming and limbing for safety and comfort reasons. Don't get to concerned with the power to weight ratio. Bigger is better - to a point. For me that point is comfort. General sizing: (From MY experiences and contacts) Up to 30cc, rare to occasional use. Emergencies, light trimming, limbing of felled trees. 12 to 16" bar. 30 - 60cc, average homeowners firewood saw range, depending on needs and desires. 16 - 20" bar. 65 - 70cc and up, you're pretty much in the commercial saws here. Most homeowners don't need a saw this big unless it's for 5+ cord firewood/year or maybe you want a powerful large saw on hand for occasional use. Maybe you have big trees around. I run 2 saws. I have an Echo cs490. 49cc. 18" bar. I have a Stihl ms180c and I absolutely love it. 32cc. 16" bar. Lightweight. Decent power. Low vibration. Well balanced. It is my Go-to saw for most things. Don't get too hung up on power to weight ratio. Look around your property. If none of your trees are large, have an 18" bar on a 59cc ms361 and learn to run it properly. Learn the personality and nuances of the saw. WEAR ALL YOUR PPE Good luck and keep asking questions. Check out forums called firewood hoarders and arborists site. @WVHillbilly520H you should throw a word or 2 here...

Me too, but sadly one of them has perfect tread, just needs sidewalls!

Many garden tractors and other equipment makers don't use a fuel pump with the tank mounted above the carb. only issue would be going up a hill just like the Model T Fords, had to back up a hill to keek the fuel level above the carb. 953, thank you. I did not think about the fuel level changing based on the tractor going up hills. Danny

I thought I would share these comics that Jada wrote for class... They’re actually pretty good if you asked her dad!

You got it Kevin. All works out pretty much the same. Joe and I joke that we’re bearded brothers from another mother. His son, Clay, and Emory are good buddies as well. It’s just nice to see him and his son getting to enjoy stuff like this together. This hobby is as much or more about friendships as the tractors!

Well maybe I will take it somewhere to have it checked out and tuned. Its cold up here in NY and I have had no trouble starting it. Fires up after a few pulls. The guy I got it from bought it brand new but as you can see from the photos its had its use. I got the saw, a generac 5000w generator, and a brand new mossberg turkey gun for $300 so I believe I did well. Zero use for the bird gun as I dont hunt but I would have paid the 300 for just the saw and generator. He told me he always used non ethanol gas in both. I always use it on all my small engines plus sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Thanks for the tips and advice. I like to listen to what everyone has to say, especially with things I have no experience with.

Electrician came by yesterday and mostly laughed at my concerns/issues. Wires on the right are all 3 or 4 way switches for outlets or light fixtures. Was told to put them all in a junction box and tie them together from whatever switch they came from. Almost every thing that can be turned on by a switch can be turned on from 3-5 other switches as well, so removing the switches in the center of the room won't make any difference. Wires on the left are the power for the island outlets/dishwasher and garbage disposal. Electrician disconnected them from the breaker box and told me to call him back when I had the ceiling opened up in the basement to fish new wires though to re-power the island components. So no nearly as big of a deal as anticipated. Other weird thing is that those columns were not actually connected to the ceiling in anyway. Just dry walled around and stuck there. Once I cut the 2x4 on the outside it basically fell out of the ceiling with some wiggling. @953 nut wins the best guess for how the kitchen island is vented, no prizes for winning. Sorry, budget constraints. @rmaynard and @JERSEYHAWG / Glenn here's the venting for the kitchen sink that was being asked about at one point.

Thank you Stevebo, means a lot. This is the monument our local history group paid for on the site of the disaster. Mick

We miss him!

With a little help from my friend.

Porter Cable

I picked these up the other day. They are 4.00-18 with a 1' bore. I would like to make something to tow behind the RJ or the Speedex. it could be something useful or something just for fun. I have a few trailers already, not saying I don't need another but I'm just looking for something not so plain or ordinary. Throw some ides at me and pics if you have them. Don't let these wheels just sit in my shed

Update on my EZ Rake. Sorry I should have taken more pictures. After welding the bracketry, I took it for a test run and it worked great! Next I completely disassembled the entire unit, sandblasted the deck/shell and belt guard. Everything else was glass beaded down to bare metal. I then primed all the components with rustoleum clean metal primer. Next I painted everything that used to be white, Rustoleum sunrise red. I found out these came in both white or red and I couldn’t find the proper off white color so I went with red to match my C-161. I’m now ready for reassembly.

Sorry to have taken so long to get back to this thread... About the blade/chain brand Oregon is absolutely fine as replacement and they (bar/chain combos) can be had on the jungle site for less... I leave fuel in my saws or run them dry either way they'll start right up 6 months or longer between runs (just my experiences here) another way to learn to sharpen a saw chain is just try it on an old chain that you aren't worried about messing it up... Now for the 835 Mossberg that my friend is a very fine Turkey/Coyote gun (not an ordinary bird gun) the barrel is "overbored" (.835" vs .750 standard bore) and with the right choke tube and shot combo is lethal out to 60-70 yards... And for what you paid for everything you may just want to go buy yourself a lottery ticket too.

If their for a cart to be towed around behind a tractor they, don't need high speed roller bearings, an Oilite or plain brass bushing will work fine. Since the wheels have 1" I.D. hubs, use 3/4" ID x 1" OD bushings. You can use a 3/4" rod for your axle and drill it for a grease fitting.

Don't forget Model A's! Here's the last A, a 30 model, that my great grandfather restored around 1978. My grandfather has it now. We brought it home from my great grandmothers house after she passed at 94 in 2015. About 2 years ago we pulled the tank/cowl out and had it cleaned out. Had around 1" of varnish all the way around from sitting after the tank got so bad it wouldn't run, which was around 2001. Still presents well!

No No No leave the axle as is never destroy old parts just ad to them !

have @ebinmaine take it Owl head maybe they will fit on some old biplane?

It was a late night but here it is. I am down to only a few things left. I have a few touch ups to do and choke and throttle cables. I also have to change the hood bump stop a bit and then DECALS.

and the hood is now red

It is also food grade, so you can use it on your pancakes.

I'd be happy to do that for you. In the interest of full disclosure I can't get a good edge on a knife either. Okay, at best. To sharpen my saws I bought a couple of file holders which you'll see in the pictures later. Those are what made all the difference in the world. Hold it at the right angle and take your time. I won't say it's Fail-Safe because obviously there's a learning curve to everything... but boy... do they help.

Actually, I have added the parking brake lever and the cover. I have found a few of those covers and more of those levers then I need. The 502 is now at JoeBob's...if he still has it. He did a full resto on it a few years ago. It was in pieces in my Dad's shed and those pictures are of when I got it back together and running. I had to make a few parts. Re-bend that rod to work for you.

Thanks pullstart. All my family were in mining so in the dim and distant past who knows? I will post a new thread on the subject. Back to the build.... Cut out the slot for the steel angle and will be cementing it in place tomorrow with any luck.

At my families business we sold about every saw but stihl. We used to tell people why buy a stihl, it says 'steel' on it, but it's made out of aluminum! C-85

We do have some members that will tell you the IPL's are not all correct...they did not always re-draw things in those as they changed through the years. With that said, here are some pictures of my old 502. It has a straight rod and did not come with the parking brake handle. Having an issue up-loading pictures.

Gas storage. Definitely empty. If you don't already do it, get NON-ETHANOL. Little 2-stroke engines like that are a bunch more susceptible to ethanol damage than even a Kohler garden tractor engine. Their own bar and chains are of great quality. Depending on the dealer you use, you may pay a premium for them. That said, I would not hesitate a split second to get an Oregon brand bar and chain on there. 18 inch bar with anti-kickback chain would be more than adequate for your usage and the 20 that it came with as well. Around my place we try to do as many repairs as possible on our own. We'll tackle pretty much anything if we can get some information and the right tools. Even with that in mind I don't generally tune my own two stroke engines. I have three of them. I have a fantastic Small engine guy that treats me very very well. if it was me and I wanted that saw looked at and tuned up correctly I would absolutely bring it to my favorite small engine shop and spend 50 or $75 because it would be well worth it in the long run.

Nice team of horses you have there. I can't wait to see this one and the tribute one when done

Nice scrap yard finds. I can't believe what some people throw away.Of course,I like the WH best,but would not have refused the other two.Have fun with your new toy.

That is why I asked if there is a hole in the shroud. Without air flow the smaller R/R will not last very long.

Howard, I have your phone number. Even if you don't get it running, I'll plan to add it to my stable. #3, just like Dale Earnhardt.

The tribute tractor is one we're going to put together specifically for the Owl's Head museum show. It'll be an 856 chassis with a 1976 milspec Chrysler single cylin Here's a pic from last fall of the "Horse stable". Near to far is Trina's Pony, 657. Trina's 867 which is her primary worker. My Cinnamon Horse C-160, my Patriot Horse B80. We also have the Charger hydro project and a 1949 Ferguson TE20 with FEL (in the spring.) So if all goes right ... We'll have 7 GTs and a farm tractor...

Before I realized they made transmission jacks, I cut the heads off of a pair of long 3/8" bolts, rounded the end then cut in a slot for a screwdriver. Screw these into the engine block, make sure your transmission once its installed does not hinder the removal of these dowels. Laying on my back head facing towards the engine would work the transmission onto my chest then lift it onto the dowels. While holding the tail shaft end suspended with a free knee install a couple of bell housing bolts. The take a beer break. To secure the torque converter in place during transmission installation use a 7/16 combination wrench, the open end of the wrench is placed over the converter then secured into place with a longer bolt screwed into one of the dust cover threaded holes. The heaviest transmission I has ever installed without a jack, cast iron power glide into a 59 Pontiac rag. Now at 70 have a transmission jack.

ZXT thanks for bringing this to my attention, the truck previously belonged to my other half used primarily as a grocery getter. She recently gifted the truck to me along with the transmission parts previously purchased. Now that I'll be using the truck I'm going to take your suggestion to replace the sun shell. Here's an image of the sun shell ZXT is referring to, they're infamous reputation is having the internal spline strip out. Anyone interested in down loading the shop manual, this link is live for the next 30 days there's two files in this offline folder. https://tinyurl.com/vxvzxs2

That was the Oaks colliery disaster, largest loss of life until Senghenydd in Wales. The one that happened today is the Lundhill colliery explosion. Mining was our biggest industry and left lasting scars on our area and our people. Now there are only a couple of disused mines left, so its important to remember what we can about the industry. Mick

I'm thinking you need a couple of cross members. Those, along with the additional stringers you are adding will help increase the torsional rigidity - better cornering performance, ya know.

I can think of worse songs to stick in your head. Want to know some?

well its looking pretty sad now all ripped apart. found a you tube about to flip and remount the clutch. I got to go harbor freight and get a 301cc engine like the one he used in his in the video. that old hh120 is one heavy engine! as it turned out it wasn't seized, the starter Gen was. maybe someday the original may get back into it but would still need alot of attention. some of the sheet metal is inside now getting ready to get scuffed and buffed.

Bolens

@Ed KennellBack in the time when carpenters braces where in their hey day, all manufacturers where trying to out do each other by inventing essentially " a better mouse trap". There are countless very interesting and intriguing types of braces and attachments for them. The one shown is a combination brace wrench drill. It can be used to quickly drive a bolt being fully adjustable for different sizes, and can also be used as a regular drill or brace by holding a bit. Jaws should have a groove to put bit in. The pivoting end would allow all kinds of different angled operations. A more common and refined version, where the Johnston Patented ones. The second tool is actually a variation of an "Archimedes drill". It is the precursor to all "Yankee" type drills and screwdrivers.The tip should be removable and various drill bits and screw driving tips would be used in it. That is a very old tool. They are usually small and nimble most of the times being used to pierce fretwork in marquetry. The third item are old hand forged wrought iron hinge anchor pins for a gate or small door. Because of the "barbs" in these they were most likely intended for a gate that was between two stone posts.They would be cemented into holes drilled into posts. The second part an actual pivot fastened into door would then slip into the holes.Such gate would be readily removed by simply pulling it up from anchor pins. It is more common for the hole to be in the part mounted on the door and pin to be in the jamb such as in the case of large barn doors but on smaller gates and doors pin was on actual door part.

Make the owner an offer he can't refuse AHS.

You can get the same Facet pump from Napa. part # 610-1051. Usually in stock or a half day away at your local store. Everybody's been sceamin "Merica" lately. Then they go buy stuff from China. Pay the extra bucks and get a good pump!

Gonna use it!

I put an in-line marine primer bulb on my C 105... Works like a charm. $8.00... took 10 minutes...Instant starts...