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@Ed KennellBack in the time when carpenters braces where in their hey day, all manufacturers where trying to out do each other by inventing essentially " a better mouse trap". There are countless very interesting and intriguing types of braces and attachments for them. The one shown is a combination brace wrench drill. It can be used to quickly drive a bolt being fully adjustable for different sizes, and can also be used as a regular drill or brace by holding a bit. Jaws should have a groove to put bit in. The pivoting end would allow all kinds of different angled operations. A more common and refined version, where the Johnston Patented ones. The second tool is actually a variation of an "Archimedes drill". It is the precursor to all "Yankee" type drills and screwdrivers.The tip should be removable and various drill bits and screw driving tips would be used in it. That is a very old tool. They are usually small and nimble most of the times being used to pierce fretwork in marquetry. The third item are old hand forged wrought iron hinge anchor pins for a gate or small door. Because of the "barbs" in these they were most likely intended for a gate that was between two stone posts.They would be cemented into holes drilled into posts. The second part an actual pivot fastened into door would then slip into the holes.Such gate would be readily removed by simply pulling it up from anchor pins. It is more common for the hole to be in the part mounted on the door and pin to be in the jamb such as in the case of large barn doors but on smaller gates and doors pin was on actual door part.

You can get the same Facet pump from Napa. part # 610-1051. Usually in stock or a half day away at your local store. Everybody's been sceamin "Merica" lately. Then they go buy stuff from China. Pay the extra bucks and get a good pump!

Electric.. I tried the round one. Bought two put one on a C-141 only lasted a few hours. Never mounted the second tossed it in the trash. I am sticking with Facet Posiflo pumps made in USA, low current draw, choice of pressure ranges. Have had some running for several years now. Cost more than the Chicom electric but less than New Kohler mechanic pumps. Besides I like that they are being sold by a place that specializes in aircraft parts. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/solidstatepump.php

5053 Bearings and seals

Did manage to get the blackout on the hood done Saturday; added a few unique touches. Figured if it's black on the outside, it should be black on the inside......

The 312 is flying high

Transmission kaput, still have first and reverse. The 2 / 3 clutch pack is worn out, this is a common problem with the GM 4L60-E transmission, as soon as the snow is gone I'll be pulling the transmission out for a rebuild. The first image new filter, upgrade to Corvette servo, shift kit and all new solenoids. The shift kit will lesson the time it takes for a clutch pack to fully engage, this will keep the transmission running much cooler and probably give a slight increase in fuel mileage. It's advisable to install new solenoids even if the old ones were still working, as the transmission clutch packs began to slip the trans would have been operating at critical temperatures causing the plastic insulation on the wire leads to become brittle. Second image new steels, in the old days would just sand the surfaces to de-glaze then if any had severe heat spots would replace those with new ones. Last image frictions being soaked in ATF fluid, this will pre-lubricate in addition to swell them up so that proper clearances maybe observed. Clutch pack clearances maybe adjusted buy using thinner or thicker steels. It's always advisable to hang onto the old steels until the job is completed as I've often found after market steels thicker than OEM. There are plenty of youtube videos out there showing the complete rebuild, the only difference is than I have made a few simple jigs and a spring compressor needed to remove a snap ring to access one of the clutch pack pistons to replace the seals. If there's interest I'll post picture when I have this transmission on the bench. The friction ,material bonded to the plates is made from paper.

I usually gotta pay a guy to call me a friend too 'Fish!.. Let Dino know your requirements... Dan @Achtoand I will be singing east bound and down....

Just a bit of work done today as I went to my local history group today for the first time. Tomorrow is the 163rd anniversary of a mining disaster that claimed the lives of 189 men and boys 200 yards below my home. I wanted to find out a little more about it and I'm taking flowers to the shaft caps at 12.20 pm when the explosion happened. God rest their souls. Mick 🙏

You just described most of the people on Redsquare

DPCD was used on Dodge, Plymouth,Chrysler, DeSoto grade 5 bolts. That bolt would probably be of interest to a Mopar collector.

Cleanliness and preparation are essential for a good finish. doesn't matter what material you are applying or what type of application you use, poor prep equals poor results. The surface should be sanded down all the way to the metal, cleaned with an automotive paint prep solvent and wiped dry with a lint free cloth. The oils from your hand or any other contaminant in the air can result in lifting. After the first coat of primer it is best to wet sand with 400 wet/dry paper and flush the surface well then clean with prep solve again. Do this between all coats of finish. When reading the instructions on the can of spray paint you will see that the open time for a second application calls for very specific temperature and humidity conditions. Few of own an accurate weather station and I have always felt that if you rush it the thinners don't have enough time to evaporate resulting in poor adhesion.

I put an in-line marine primer bulb on my C 105... Works like a charm. $8.00... took 10 minutes...Instant starts...

I got ocean front property in Arizona, you'll buy that I'll throw a Wheel Horse in for free.... crap... now I got that song stuck in my head!

Well here is the latest progress on the car.Gaps look pretty good, nose a little off right now. It is moving along!

curb feelers? You have curbs at your place?

That transmission is just the beginning. With that red horse in you barn, the yellow better be wary, soon there will be more red than yellow. When they breed with the yellow, they come out red as it's the dominate color.

Farmall A’s have a special place in my heart...until I was 5, I got to ride on my great grandfathers farmall A... I remember it!! The farmall got sold with the house twice.. I saw the farmall 5 years ago, it has been sitting inside the whole time... I would just like to tinker on it once to get it running and ride around on it.... that would bring a smile ear to ear for me!!😁😁

The last addition. It's name.I'd like to make a recommendation to anybody needing a decal kit. Give redoyourhorse.com a chance. You won't be sorry you did.

I'll be your friend Jim

About 3/4 of the way done with my new lift for the shop. I'm only 35 but most days my knees and back feel like I'm much older! Living in Michigan also means cold floors even when my shop is heated up to 70 the floor is like a popsicle. 8ton air over hydro has no problem lifting my old 2 stage simplicity blower (about 200lbs) and my 200lb butt at the same time, have not tried the 312 or the 520 yet but I don't think it will have a issue. The lift comes apart in 2 sections in about 15 min and can be put along the wall for more space.

I don't have a picture Maxie. But the locking collar goes on the shaft first, then the bushing with the flange side down. The shaft is then inserted in the dash tower hole and the lower end into the bearing block. The bushing and locking collar and bushing are then slid up the shaft until the bushing is tight in the dash tower hole. Then lock the collar to the shaft with the set screws. The pressure on the collar/bushing keeps the lower gears engaged. Others will be along to offer pictures.

OK, I found a few items that caught my interest at the auction today.

Spring is back...54F. If you look to the left of the thermometer, you can see my neighbor plowing. Here's a close up. Crazy, plowing in Feb.

I haven’t yet thought that far ahead... but I have that tube bender, I could fab something out of round stuff if needed. I cut the first parallel piece and have some height trimming to do before I cut it to length.

I have several that came off my M-37. Too bad 50% gone P and D

Always do Pete... usually bush but these were nice so not required. Off a later model resto…

May have?!?!? Plan on bringing some to AJ's Steve and I'll get them to the BS. You guys that want one maybe let Steve know??

No typing prior to Coffee.

I don't think I can get in trouble if I bought it for somebody and got back what I paid for it. I know that I can not mail it...so you would have to see me at some point during the year. I will be going to AJ's and Portage, Wis. I am not sure about the Big Show yet, but if WHX?? is going, he can stop and pick up for those that want some. My price was $24.99 + about $2.00 tax...so in case they up the price...figure $27 a bottle. I'd say, send me a PM if interested. Let me see what the interest is. For those that don't drink, I may have a couple of empties by then.

Next one Bryce, I believe in you! They are sloppy when you take them apart and the tolerances are so sloppy they would surprise you! Everything moves around so much in there, it’s no wonder they are called slush boxes!

It’s not all too bad. Keeping everything in line is key.... but with clutches and steels, it’s like a multi step safe to crack a code. Line it up all you want on the bench, getting it together in the case is... we’ll just say it’s fun. With the electronic transmissions, I learned that unless there’s a break like in the post below... it’s best to replace all the solenoids in the valve body. Speaking of valve body, there are a handful of check balls. Taking a picture of where they came from and using Vaseline to hold them in place during reassembly is a great trick too.

Makes me glad I live down here in Oklahoma. Registration on new vehicles can get expensive...but the older they are the cheaper it gets, and it doesn't matter what they are...tags for my 98 2500 and Krystal's 94 F150 both run me $27.50 a year...even when I had my old 62 Ford C600 grain truck the yearly registration on it was only $22.50. Another thing i like is the fact that privately owned trailers are not required to be tagged.

I tried that Dan … the rod hits the tank stand just under the lift arm. I even had to put a thick bronze washer ther too to make it clear. Actually the original rod had a sight bend to the outside which cocked the trunnion in the arm abit. The S rod also clears the battery a bit better. I think I am going to have to get the engine done and back on to get clutch action sorted out. With the tension spring on might be easier. I didn't take the arm off the clutch pully rod Tom. Pin was brown welded and holes not wallowed out so got painted as is. Figured if it ain't broke don fix it...

A guy has to try lol I'd pay the $30 a bottle. I noticed that batch #1, it would look good sitting on my shelf after it's empty!

Already lighting a fire under him about that Mike... figure if we can $30.00 a bottle won't get rich but hopefully make some friends! That Batch #1 might be a good collector's piece someday. I think the old skool shape of the bottle and the cork style top is !

Feel free to ask as many questions as you want. The only dumb question is the one you did not ask. If you take a look at the transmission section, one of the threads pinned near the top is seal and bearing cross reference information. Those parts are readily available from many different sources. Good luck. Keep us posted. Please post pictures. We all likes our pictures.

Bear in mind that the electric pump will protect you from gas in the crank from busted membrane syndrome. That is one of a few reasons that all mine are converted to electric. The HEP-02A pumps work fine, and are pretty much all the same. Color and sticker may vary. 8-10$ delivered to your door directly from the nice chinamans land. Heat will kill it though, so mount in a cool place. Also, it is meant for pushing, not sucking.

Took advantage of my last oddball holiday for the school year and replace the throttle cable on HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!!

I haven’t decided. Steps / fenders / mud flaps / curb feelers?

I put together a table top out of some scrap OSB and a 12’ skid cut down to 8’ or so. Hopefully the next time this machine moves off the lift, it’s under it’s own power. The front of the frame was cleaned up and the hood mount is tacked on.

Did a little work on the frame cross member, tried to grind the spindle welds, and tried 1" 1/8 hole saw, (1st pic ). Then tried 1", cut it easily, will bring to a friends to press them out.

Got those grommets and thay fit, seem to snap in to place. Fits the neutral cam plate too. The brake lever pivot pins were worn so ground welds, welded in new pins, added brass bushing to parking brake lever. We'll see if it will help with wear. Mocking up motion control lever, have to get new spring for cam plate and brake linkage. All the linkage works really smooth so far. Still waiting for a few more bushings and grommets. Still have to find a machine shop drill out axle and spindles for bronze bushings.

A little more work done over the weekend. I had started to disassemble a transmission to put the axles and seals in then decided to change to another one. I remembered that the other has bad axle keyways and I'm swapping out the axles... So why use a transmission that's still good... Maybe Wednesday or Thursday I'll get to that... Trina disassembled and cleaned the front axle and spindles. Then painted the axle. Also.. the first RED paint was sprayed!! The rear fenders have their first coat. This is Rust-Oleum Apple Red Gloss. @Stormin She wants you to know that she has more than one pair of socks.

Nice addition to the garage. I can relate to those cold floors too. My knees don't like it at all. You may have just inspired me to build one of these for myself

83, I fat fingered that one.

I'm a big believer in those spray can handles. Make painting much more enjoyable.

That leak might indicate the axle bearing is worn, allowing the torque to deform the seal. With it jacked up and the tire off check if you can push the hub side to side and up/down. Any movement more than a hair, indicates slop in the axle bearing. Take care of that 1-1/8" 8 pinion, there tough as nails when there maintained. Thanks for pulling with a Wheelhorse!