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Well now that I can post pictures we wanted to share this with all of you! Here is the beauty that my husband is really proud of and now owns after a year of wishing and wanting lol. He picked it up last part of January 2020!! The old man bought it a few years ago from the original the owner we understand. Now the guy my husband bought it from, said his health wasn’t up to it so he set this tractor inside his shed strapped on pallets and covered up! He posted it for sale several times over the past year, but we felt it was out of price range at the time. Then it disappeared so we figured it sold then it came up again different pictures! However many conversations later we have it in our heard! They both settled on a price both could be happy with! So our youngest daughter made the trip with her Dad to get this 854 and have some quality father daughter time as I couldn’t get off work. It’s a surprisingly well kept surviver, having the original paint. The blade has its decals, original paint and the mower deck the same plus it has new wheel horse brand belts on it...! It was a day in travel time but the following day he was playing on it.. Replaced the battery, added gas! Then noticed gasket on the fuel tank had dried out and was leaking and the fuel pump was leaking against the engine as the gasket was placed up side down. That has now been replaced and a gasket for the fuel tank ordered but it stopped leaking so the gasket is on hand if it starts again. He added rear weights and chains and it’s now his go to tractor! The HY-3 lift allows him precise height of the blade! Has used it twice moving snow and comes up with excuses to use it for other things! IMG_7087.MOV

Finished up adjusting carburetor and Governor and getting Irv running once again. Took it out around the yard for a little seat time! I need to put my ags back on and clean it up.

Dan and I set a round hood on fire today... well mostly Dan ... I was pretty much there for air compressor wrenching! Too bad you guys don't get to see the finished goods 'till the unveiling!

We decided this year to plant a garden. So my oldest son and I laid out where we want it, and spent the better part of the morning digging up rocks. I've got a new dump cart ordered, but it won't be here for a few days and he was getting impatient wanting to haul off the rocks we dug up. So with a little help from the 753 and an old bathtub we had laying around we got it done.

Oooooooooooh I think I’m excited!

We have more that need picked up! One in Canada at our friends place and two in Arkansas! We have lots of implements!!!

My wife’s 2011 Suburban is getting up there in miles and now’s the time to unload it, if we ever will. Years ago, she had this ‘97 Jeep she got from her dad. It was hurting, with the wrong rear ring and pinion, a knock in the 4 banger, the transmission would jump out of gear, etc. She ended up selling it to her mom, as a gift to her step dad who had the time and means to give it some lovin’. It has matching ring and pinions now, a fully rebuilt 5 speed and an engine with about 87k miles on it. He built the front bumper, added some 1.5” or 2” lift springs, etc. It’s been in many of my pictures, because when they sold us the place, the vehicles never followed them home. After a few years of not “jeeping” with buddies, he parked it. Tonight, they agreed to sell it back for her to put around town in for the same $500 she sold it to them for! Now while we hunt for a newer “Burby”, she’ll have some reliable wheels to scoot around in.

Saw this while searching FaceBook Marketplace just now. Kinda cool 😎 ain’t it !

he's obviously fishing for the clueless buyer. there are people out that pay stupid money for things. a few examples I have seen. 1. a good friend had a gorgeous restored wheelhorse. an individual saw him driving stopped asked about buying it, he said no, the guy on the spot offered 2500 cash, it sold. 2. similar situation I had someone stop and ask about my one panzer tractor. wanted to buy it. it's not for sale, he had zero clue what it was. he just liked the color and wanted it for his kids, he assumed it was in the 3 to 4 thousand dollar range and probably would have spent that. 3. an individual on another forum wanted a restored panzer. he spent a few thousand on one, then had it shipped to Australia. he stated from the beginning money was no object to him. I guess the point is there are people out there if they want they will buy it, there is saying or something there is an ass for every saddle.

Now here's a man who thinks like me . I'd bet a paycheck he has had NOT ONE stupid caller saying " I have $ 324.00 in cash / 2 frozen pizzas and a lifetime membership to The Sneaker of the Month Club " .

@Achto you have more talent in your pinky than I have in my whole body. Can't wait to see this beauty in June @WHX24...kudos to you too. I'm sure Dan couldn't have done it without you and a fine tuned air compressor wrench ear. Will you be wearing a matching costume to the tractor at the unveiling of silver bullet?

I ended up with the front section of the frame about 1/4” higher than at the transmission mount. That can be adjusted with air pressure. The chassis overall length ended up a tickle more than 67” and I was shooting for 65”. Once again, close enough for the girl I go with! Next, I should work on the steering arms, correcting Ackerman and building the front of the steering system. It’ll be nice to roll this thing around in the shop without fighting the front wheels flopping all over the place!

It’s a great sunny day to make a frame look a little straighter than it was.

Go to tractor supply and buy #40 chain, a couple of extra links and have enough chain to do again. BTW

If I haven't already said so, The mid sixties tractors didn't really have a "series" such as B, C, D, 300, 400, 500 etc.... The model number is the identity of the tractor. Your 1276 would be a 12 horsepower 7 = hydrostatic 6 = 1966. Closest by series would be the 1974 and up C series automatic/hydrostatic. My logic there is that your 1276 is a long frame like a C and Wheelhorse started using the series lettering system that year.

ok so I walked the dogs and then set about putting the lintel in place. Its propped until the mortar sets. I did support the floor joists before I cut out the brick work to fit the lintel. Mick

Summer time we like to display them on the side walk! My mother in-law is riding on 1958 RJ it is as old as she is, 🤫🤫... 😂. Then my hubby and our youngest pose for a photo op!

I don't call holding the plug into the worn out wall outlet so the compressor will stay running wrenching!

I was going to hunt for the trademark until you threatened to @squonk me! Nice Flames! Will you be finishing it off with some candy apple red?

I always wanted a lift

I took a few hours to go to the inlaw’s for the Daytona 500 but left after the food, the nap and the rain on lap 20 showing no sign of being dry for quite a while. We made a deal on a Jeep at least! One side is clamped in place and welded up a bit. I used piece of 1/4” scrap plate to fill the gap. It was a tight enough fit to prevent the welds from shrinking and bringing the nose down.

I never thought about that, thanks for the heads up. central heating pipes feed, I'll move it and pipe a radiator in while I'm at it. Couple of power sockets and lighting, I may move in lol. If I buy another mower I may have to move in..... Mick

Yesterday I took the 16 auto out of the shed in order to melt the snow out of the blower housing while it sat out in the sunshine. I heard a bang while it sat idling. When I went to move it, it wouldn't move and the belt wasn't spinning. OH NO I wanted to get it back to the shed, so I released the relief valve and I still couldn't push it. I didn't really want to "but" I got chain and the 877 and dragged back to the shed and pushed it into the shed with the plow blade against the blower. One problem solved! Today tore it apart and found this Easy fix with a new belt, checked the pulley, oiled it, put it back together, closed the relief valve, and fired it up. Runs and operates like it should

here is one that is only $2999.99...half price! i may even consider delivering it for gas money

if you haven’t noticed, we like reading the pictures best.

I picked up a hella stout wagon today, it has a tag on it Jake's Nashville Tennessee. Has 18 inch tall side boards with slotted angle iron attaching it all together. I removed the sides and set them aside for now, I will need to put new tires and clean the old grease out of them so it rolls easier, then fix a tongue so I can use my 656 to pull it. It is very heavily built for sure. 30 x 60 will sure be a nice size.

Maybe his wife is putting pressure on him to sell it off and this is his way to keep it

I've always wanted a Suburban. One of these days.

Was expecting dynamite.

A few more Trail Cam pics these are 2020. It looks like the young Bucks are still showing their antlers off.

I was hoping to see a few Trail ride pics this year but I would assume in some parts of the Country there just isn't enough white stuff so I hope I won't bore you with my pics from today. After packing the snow down there is a real good base for a tractor ride, walking the woods or a ride on the ATV.

Just be carefull you don't trip over that pipe.

Well interesting enough there is a story!!! Glad you asked! Today is the anniversary this very day! My father in-law was born in 1961 hint the 1961 suburban 400 painted blue/white! A tough surviver! It has a snow blade painted white that has temporary decals with the words (dozing through cancer) the blue is for representation of the particular cancer! The idea is to get a decal of a tractor spinning tires and driving into the words cancer! Letters scattering! He fought bravely and through that fight was a born again Christian who loved the LORD JESUS CHRIST!! Three years ago he went home! That started this addition to horses! How you say? My father in-law (Billy) sister’s husband had a 1960 in there garage and every time my husband and father in-law traveled out there to see her, it’s been told to me that my husband would throw a fit wanting to play on the tractor! Years of doing so my father-in-law actually purchased the tractor for my husband. My hubby did everything from yardwork the lawnmower pulls tell the transmission got caught in two gears. So it sat for awhile tell someone spotted it, offered money to the father in-law! When he was getting sick my father in-law tried to buy it back! The guy refused and my husband really wanted it. My husband never wrote the name down regrettably..hoping his Dad would get well. After his father pasted, he struggled and I wanted to help him feel close to him still. I not ever seeing a wheel horse began to hunt for one! We did find one, and thus the continued breeding of these things! I’ve become as addicted as him both for different reasons! Thanks for asking it allowed me to share!

all supports removed and bricks cut out to floor level. Not bad for a non builder like me. Mick

thank you very much ! I really enjoy being a part of the Wheel Horse community.

Here's another option to the above 2 methods. A combination of them will allow for thinner material to be used. When the wheel wells are solid it will hold everything tight and limit vibration. A U joint in the steering wheel shaft will allow it to be moved out of the way if the top mounting point can swivel up and be pinned to lock it in position when driving it. Kinda like an old school BMW Isetta does. Also allows you to position the steering wheel lower and or angled different if that straight shaft isn't comfortable to reach.

Max says this is too deep to cross dad. Usually a very small stream you can stride across. It was clear yesterday but shows how much rain came down last night. Back to the underfloor job later. Mick

I’ll take two! Nevermind, I’ll take @elcamino/wheelhorse‘s idea and have a Big Show spree!

Got those grommets and thay fit, seem to snap in to place. Fits the neutral cam plate too. The brake lever pivot pins were worn so ground welds, welded in new pins, added brass bushing to parking brake lever. We'll see if it will help with wear. Mocking up motion control lever, have to get new spring for cam plate and brake linkage. All the linkage works really smooth so far. Still waiting for a few more bushings and grommets. Still have to find a machine shop drill out axle and spindles for bronze bushings.

Gapping the ignition points at .020 has always been the standard answer to how points should be set. That probably will get you into the ballpark where the engine will run, but with a bit of additional effort you can improve the engine’s power and performance. The Kohler engine manual in the Red Square files section covers two methods for setting the ignition timing, Static Timing and using a Timing Light. This manual is a relatively new manual and it overlooks the fact that many of our engines were built prior to the ACR (automatic compression release) camshaft. Earlier engines (mostly 1965 and earlier) had a Spark Advance camshaft that can not be timed using Static timing. At rest (and very low RPMs) the timing is retarded to fire slightly after TDC. The timing mark (SP) on your flywheel is at twenty degrees before top dead center but at rest the points on these engines break about ten degrees after top dead center. The only reliable way to check or set the timing on these engines is with a timing light. There are a couple ways to determine what camshaft you have. Presuming the camshaft in your engine is the one it was born with the data plate on the engine has a suffix that can tell you what camshaft was used. The table below will tell you the suffix applicable to your engine. The other way to determine what camshaft you have is to remove the cam gear cover and take a look. If you see a mechanism attached to the cam gear it is the ACR cam. The following engines have the spark advance camshaft; K-141, Suffix prior to “C” K-161, Suffix prior to “J” K-181, Suffix prior to “D” K-241, Suffix prior to “D” For those who are interested in more details of the why and how of static timing; read on! With a battery ignition system, the ignition points are closed the majority of the time. With the points closed and the ignition switch ON the primary windings of the ignition coil have current flowing through them and are developing a magnetic field in the iron core of the ignition coil. The moment the ignition points open the magnetic field collapses and induces a momentary high voltage pulse in the secondary windings of the coil which goes through the spark plug wire and arcs across the gap of the spark plug. If this occurs in the presence of a compressed fuel/air mixture of the proper ratio an explosion will occur within the cylinder. If this explosion occurs at the proper time in the engine’s cycle there will be pressure applied to the piston forcing it downward on the power stroke. The ignition points will continue to open further after this has occurred. How far they open is immaterial, their work has been done for that cycle of engine operation. What is important is when they open relative to the position of the piston on its compression/power revolution. If it occurs too soon there will be backfiring, too late and there will be a reduction of power. In the case of our Kohler engines the sweet spot is twenty degrees Before Top Dead Center, that is what the “SP” mark on the flywheel is set to). At the moment the points open the condenser quenches the arc across the points extending their life, the rest of the time it just sits there. The PDF we refer to on this site for static timing of the later model engines calls for an Ohm Meter to be used (PDF attached below). I prefer a 12 Volt Test Light. The light will be connected between the battery “+” terminal and the lead that connects the points to the coil (disconnected from the coil). When the points are closed the light will be on, the moment the points open the light will go off. You don’t have to be focused on if like you would on a meter. With the test light situated near the sight hole for the flywheel (spark plug out so the engine will turn with ease), turn the flywheel slowly by hand in the clockwise direction (counter-clockwise if on the PTO end) until the moment the light goes out. If the “SP” mark is centered in the hole you are done, if not you have a little work to do. This was the point where extending the lines to the outside came in handy. If the points are opening too late, they need to be opened further, if it occurs too early they need to be closed up some. Make gradual adjustments until the “SP” mark on the flywheel is centered in the sight hole at the moment the light goes out. Now tighten the screw securely and turn the engine over several revolutions to be sure the points are consistently opening at the proper moment.

I did as above today and some other things. The regulator on the tractor was badly corroded so I hucked it in the trash. I have a regulator from a 77 C-160 on there now and I moved it... To the exact outside of where it was. I added a ground wire for the VR. I found that the 2 AC wires were corroded and the insulation was completely off in one spot. Cut that all apart and rewired them. The ends of the VR/ignition switch wire were no better so that got the same treatment. Checked the kill/ground wire. It has a small spot near the ignition switch end that will be heat shrink wrapped. Trina took the plastic cover off of a C series dash and polished up the bare metal. I installed the key switch and throttle cable. Not happy with the throttle cable so I'll either rebendify it or swap out for a new one. Next will be to find a spot for the starter solenoid then finish wiring.

A guy that pays that is looking for a divorce. Hmmm, maybe that would work?? You can tell the seller is not a Wheel Horse guy. None of us would post a price that ended with $ .99, we would all be like $250, $25, $6,000, etc. Can you imagine telling someone...you bought your horse for $399.99???

The second V is cut out and the area is wire wheeled clean. The MIG is running low on 75/25 so I’ll roll the TIG up front next time I’m in the shop. G’night y’all.

More shop time today, made a dummy plug for the hole saw to bore out the 1/2" pin holes in the arms. Drilled top holes on posts to accept thd 1" pins. Cut crossbar to lenght and made the bottom plates.

Little bit more done this weekend

Well not as nice and tidy as you lads, but it does me. 9" hollow concrete blocks. Built up in three tiers. Four 3" x 6" x 12ft spars topped with two stainless steel sheets. All materials came from where I used to work. Demolished wall. Very large machinery packing case and the stainless was part of a wrong order. Below an ex hospital bed. Again free. Rescued before it was consigned to a scrap skip. Really handy multi use. Lift, welding table. Also for working on engines etc and all sorts of other things.

I’m glad you let BBT wear more than one pair of socks. Otherwise she’s look like she has hobo socks. Like mine sometimes... I feel like holding a celebration of life when I see another sock in the laundry trash... looking forward to seeing Colossus come together!

AT the BS $5,999.99 would buy a lot have to get Pullstart to be the load master .

Well, I finally got back to my creation - it’s been a long week with something to do every night. I just finished tacking the tins together. I’m using my new inverter welder - talk about a learning curve! It burns much hotter and blows through much easier than my old transformer welder! Both are flux core, but this little dude really has the punch! More later.