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I may not be, or ever be, an epert WH man like so many of you here. And thats ok. I may never even 'know' WHs like y'all. But i know a great place...and PEOPLE...when i see them; God puts them in front of me. And i have found all that and more here. I wont go into details yet, and in fact, involved parties might say im putting the cart b4 the horse with this post. But i dont think so. Even if things dont go as planned or hoped...an act of kindness...an expression of willingness to help a stranger...yes, me...has me feeling humbled...and grateful...for this place. And those that make it up. And i just want you all to know what a wonderful thing you all have created, with site. I truly thank every one of you for letting me be a part of it. God Bless every one of you.

Mine would have to just say Buy. Haven't sold one yet...did loan one to my Brother but I get it back someday....

To hand out at shows to prospective buyers/sellers and what not. Bottom has mine and the Missus's phone numbers. about 12 bucks for 100. from here.. https://www.gotprint.com/products/business-cards/info.html

The Snowblower shown is a 1973 7 HP Tecky with 24'' which sold for new for $ 432.60 an a 1981 Fairway rider which sold for $ 707.50 both new that my father bought and the blower is now owned by a friend and my brother in law owns the rider both Great Machines.

Crap I left out the m .com!

@Squonk we could pull him on a mailing list for Depends and other ole goat products.

There's no selling going on at J&C Stables.

Stumbled on some pics of a friends tractor in Northern Maine back in 1989 the same person I bought the 51 Super A from. When I was there for a visit with the 86 K -20 with the truck camper which can barely be seen in the first pic in the left corner the Oliver had a york rake which we removed and put a rear mower on and I had the pleasure to mow a very large area with it and from what I remember they had to pry me off of it. Does anyone know anything about this Make and Model, would like to hear your comments.

Anybody that can't figure that out for themselves isn't likely to send emails anyway.

Just remember: If you get any solicitation e-mails from dairyfarmersonly.com it wasn't me!

Now that we all know your e-mail address, LET THE FUN COMMENCE!

Jim! Did you just call my thread a BS thread ? Oh that’s not cool...I’ll be submitting the proper forms to Karl to deal with this.

That’s where you check your roof for baby seats and coffee cups. Great reminder while you’re not moving!

It’s just east of Omro, isn’t it?

Reminds me of a good bumper sticker I've seen... "If you think OSHA is a small town in Wisconsin, you're in trouble..."

One of my favorite fishing holes just south of Moosehead lake near the Appalachian Trail with my daughter. When you hear it coming you tend to put the rods down and watch and listen, not something you see, hear and feel in our normal work week. Gotta love the great state of Maine.

Ok Jimbo and Skunk.... just cause you s got shortcuts to Jeritol on your desktops don't mean I got yer bowel malfuctions! I think that would be udderly fantastic if I was to get some emails from some well endowed dairy gals!

Ahhh… I've seen enough pics of the bus stop Skunk... no thanks..... and only the people I pay to be my friends get the phone nos.....

You need a belt cover in order for the belt/clutch system to work properly. Even with the clutch pedal released, the belt will bounce around on the non-drive side.

Trans flush and refilled. Also engine oil changed. When I came to adjust the governor, I found the arm was loose on the spindle. That was because the pinch bolt was not tight. When I came to tighten it, the nut fell off. Along with that end of the bolt. New bolt fitted and the governor works as it should. The tractor is already now to go to it's new home. Being collected some time next week. I'd like to thank those who have given me advice and support. Much appreciated.

I'll add lunch boxes, coffee cups, and fishing rods.

Mobile phones as well. Cell phones to you USA people. Don't ask how I know.

Two new rectifiers arrived last night much to my surprise. The Chinese version. Not supposed to be here 'till Monday at the earliest. Fitted one this morning and all is well. Ammeter showing a nice charge. Am I a happy bunny or what. It's been a right pain, but I now know a little bit more about electrics. All that's left now is to flush the trans and refill with fresh oil, change engine oil and a little adjustment to the governor.

@Willlawre don’t listen to Jim @WHX24 about me... he’s got enough spare hoods he could send us all a welding table for our birthdays! Best of luck with your travels and decisions! My 502 was my first Wheel Horse, I bought it just to mow my lawn, not knowing a thing about this site or vintage tractors at all. Now between myself, my two daughters and my wife, we’re at some 16 and store them in racking... If you’re this into the old Wheel Horses and want a real fun time, block out June 25-27 and we’ll see you at the Big Show, in Arendtsville, PA just outside of Gettysburg. There’s good deals galore and all kinds of show happenings!

I intend to stick around. Things just dont always go as planned. But i plan on learning n sharing. Count on that.

Ain't that where @PeacemakerJack is from???

Cards turned out good Jim. Guess you'll have to be prepared for lots of extra emails now.

Especially not to they guys that are thinning the herd!

I'd say it is OK to post this thread here. The only way I would put an original Tecumseh back on it, is if I had one in the shop. It is getting impossible to find parts for them and the price for parts is through the roof. 8hsp Kohler would be great for trails.

Afternoon, all. Possibly taking a trip up to ebinmaine's tomorrow. Going to be taking up more or less everything to a 1968 Charger 9 hydro lift. Just to be sure I have everything, you'd simply remove the two hose fittings off the pump, and remove the actual valve bodies too? Seems to me I read that the bodies were different between a hydro lift and a manual lift machine? It's not right in front of me at the moment so just trying to figure what all is supposed to go with it.

This is where I get them Mike. http://www.psep.biz/store/delco_alternator.htm

Two of the best charts you can use to keep track of your Wheel Horse tractor requirements. I keep them on the wall of the garage.

It seems most of the tractors I find show 40+ years of use and some or a lot of neglect. So I've gradually developed this list that I call my Minor Overhaul. I usually don't do it all at once, its more of a progressive thing as I get it running, or go deeper to get it running. Clean, de-grease pressure wash complete tractor,. Possible remove seat, seat pan and hood if tractor was filthy. 1. Install new spark plug, start tractor and check if it made a difference. 2. With tractor running spray carb cleaner around base of carb and top of carb throttle shaft to check for air leaks. (if engine speeds up there is an air leak which effects performance) 3. Check fuel pump output (with hose to carb removed , open hose should spurt gas noticeable with each pump) a weak pump can be a symptom of hard to start after sitting a while. 4, Clean fuel tank & check shutoff valve body and check hose flow to insure tank strainer isn't partially plugged (i have found the body of the valve/strainer can get scaled up so I hand ream it with a drill bit, or just replace it) If you pulled gas tank to clean now is a good time to clean all around transmission and notice any leaks which might indicate a transmission seal needs replacing 5. While replacing hoses with both hoses off pump, now is a good time to spray carb cleaner into each side of pump, sort of to flush it out. (try to get ethanol resistance hose) 6. With carb still installed) Pull the bottom bowl, if its full of gunk move to pulling carb for a full disassembly cleaning, if bowl is clean or only has a slight amount of trash pull idle and main jet needle screws and spray carb cleaner through them. (As part of pulling jet screws, count the number of turns inward they will go until they stop so you can reinstall them in the same position) 7.Run tractor and see if fuel system work improved running 8. If not much improvement, pull the tractor hood, most of this work is on the front of the engine and this make sit so much easier. (Pull battery cable for safety) Pull the carb and since it is off do a full disassembly cleaning. If throttle shaft is worn (wobbles or found during air leak test, install a bushing in the recess at the top of the carb. Kohler makes a bushing for this but they are a little hard to find in stock. I stack 2 brass thrust washer I get from ACE Hardware in all those little drawers (Hillman part# 58087) Test the throttle shaft fit and if tight hand ream very slightly with a drill bit 9. With the carb off now is the time to get to do head and valve work. 10. Pull head and decarbon head and top of piston 11. Pull valve cover and internal baffel (note position of cover and baffle as they must be reinstalled in the same vertical position to vent properly) 12. Pull valves, and clean (I decarbon them using a wire wheel on a bench grinder) Check valve stem diameter for wear and install in valve guide and check for excessive wear (wiggle) Lap valves and check, adjust valve clearance 15. Measure cylinder wear top, and bottom of stroke (and compare to Kohler spec sheet 16. Drain engine oil, fill with diesel or kerosene, crank engine over for a minute to wash everything inside, drain ((I jack tractor to tip it slightly to the side to make sure all the diesel is drained out overnight), refill oil, Mobil 1 17. Reinstall head, with new gasket torque per Kohler spec sheet now, and retorque hot, after running engine 15 or so minutes 18. With engine tins off, use an air blow gun and blow/clean behind flywheel and all cylinder cooling fins, If really dirty/grease consider pulling flywheel and cleaning under it 19. Now is a good time to find the timing marks on the flywheel. I sand and paint the area white, then when dry use a paint pen to mark the Timing mark and TDC mark 20. file or replace points and condenser.. 21. Remove starter, clean gear and gear shaft, relube with dry graphite. if tractor was filthy, disassemble starter and clean/lube per procedure in Kohler Manuel, reinstall 22 Reinstall engine tins 23. Clean or replace battery positive cable and clean or replace all ground cables Service Transmission With tractor operational, check if any seals are leaking and need replacement Drain transmission (jack up front of tractor to make sure oil trapped in front of hump drains out (If oil showed indications of water or excessively dirty (milky, brown or white color, or clear water) Fill transmission with diesel or kerosene. Drive tractor around, or jack up and run through all the gears) Drains transmission again being sure to jack up to drain area trapped by hump Replace filter if a Hydro Clean hydro coling fins and all linkage, regrease linkage, replace coling fan if missing blades Refill transmission with oil. Replace shifter boot if cracked/broken/missing Tractor Body Pull front wheels, clean and re-grease wheel bearings Grease steering shaft fitting and gear Spray some white lithium grease in holes under clutch and brake pedal Replace any missing bolts and tighten where needed. Replace any missing/worn rubber hood,seat, etc rubber bumpers Rebuild front hood hinge with brass bushings Parts Possible Needed Spark Plug Air cleaner (if needed) Fuel hose and if needed new clamps (optional) tank shut off valve with filter screen and rubber tank bushing Carb cleaner spray can Carb base and air cleaner gasket carb overhaul kit If needed, fuel pump overhaul kit, or new mechanical or electric fuel pump If carb throttle shaft is worn 2 Hillman brass washers part# 58087 (or you may decide to buy a new aftermarket carb) Valve cover gasket, mesh filter, red rubber spacer, baffle gasket Head gasket Diesel or kerosene Engine oil Valve lapping compound and valve suction cup stick Transmission seals Transmission gear oil Shifter boot Anti-seize compound (I like to put this on head bolts and any bolts/nuts in hot area Rubber bumpers Hood Bushings (hillman # brass) Tractor drive belt Hydro cooling fan Dialectric grease Electrical If it works and wire terminals are not rusted/corroded, I leave it alone . If I have to diagnose a electrical problem, I start by removing each wire, cleaning terminal with a brush in Dremel and reinstalling (use dialectric grease) one by one. (This has cured some electrical problems without ever having to trouble shoot further)

Nevermind, I found it......I completely overlooked it

@pullstart 16 horses?!? Ill maybe prolly end up with 3 lol. Talked to the wife and shell be done driving school bus before June 25th and I got 8 days vacation left I'm coming down to p.a. this year. Putting in for the time off this afternoon when I head to work. Still think I'm gonna take a look at this RJ but if it doesn't work out that's 5 more months to save up for sonething at the show maybe. Do a lot of guys bring running and driving horses for sale or are they mostly projects?

Loaves of bread!

Richard does really superb work. I follow all his work. I bought a carb he refurbished off him. Spot on. Really nice chap and very helpful.

I have some random generic wrenches laying around I feel the need to try this. While I have never used a masonry bit for anything other than cement, I have successfully drilled through hardened circular saw blades with cobalt bits quite easily. A few years ago I made some knives out of 12" miter saw blades and drilled holes for the rivets in the Jarrah wood handles. When it came time to drill holes in the tangs for the handles, every titanium bit I used did nothing but walk around the center punch marks but the cobalt bits cut through like the steel was butter.

Working on a winter project, using a K181, and trying to test start the engine I ran into a problem. At times the starter would not engage or engage and crank slow Oh the battery was dead...nope. Looked at the solenoid, actually jumper-ed the solenoid.....nope. Rechecked the grounds to the engine and battery connections...all okay. Now I am focused on the starter, took a hammer and gave it a few light taps...still no change. I left the hammer laying on the starter and decided to try it again and the head of the hammer was between the frame and starter frame...spark city. As it turned out, I had painted the engine and starter separate, then assembled when dry, there was enough paint to cause a bad connection. Buffed off the paint on block and starter mounting area and she started like a new one. One would have thought the bolts would have made enough contact....nope! I know a lot of people here refurbish engines and just wanted to pass along as an area not to over look.

This overhaul procedure applies to Sundstrand HydroGear models 90-2046 and 90-2062 as well as earlier Sundstrand models 3100077 (1965 thru 1967). FIRST....It is CRITICAL to keep these parts CLEAN when making re-assembly. Keep a small tub of kerosene to rinse EVERY PART while working on, AND as a rinse just before assembly. Also CRITICAL to use Start-up oil too… Get 2 sheets of 220 400 and 1000 grit sandpaper and tape to a SMOOTH surface plate. Using a ‘Figure 8’ motion, sand off the scratches or score marks on internal parts. PS…put a drop or two of oil on the grit paper….it’ll last much longer. Prepare to refinish these if scored: Brass Piston Slippers, Base of Cylinder Block, Face of Charge Pump Housing, both sides of the 2-pc Gerotor Set. With the 9 PISTONS (with brass slippers) in the CYLINDER BLOCK, mark ONE of them with felt-tip and put a corresponding mark on the cylinder block at the bore THAT piston came from. Then lift the 9 Pistons with the RETAINING RING out and set into the plastic cap of a spray paint can...or whatever you can to keep them in original order. One by one, using a ‘Figure 8” pattern, progressively thru 220—400—100 grit paper, sand out all scratches and scoring. DO NOT take off more material necessary to bring parts to a buff finish…don’t need mirror finish on any parts. As each SLIPPER is buffed smooth, use compressed air to blow thru the NEEDLE TIP of the Brass Slipper to clear it of any debris. (I use aerosol air can…pretty handy to have. As each slipper is finished, rinse it in kerosene and replace to retaining ring. On to the next one…. If the BASE of the cylinder block is scored….probably is…use the same ‘8’ motion to sand it smooth too. THOROUGHY flush in Kerosene. Inspect cylinder bores for damage or nicks of any sort. CHARGE PUMP HOUSING: Same ‘8” motion to resurface if needed. GEROTOR SET…this is a 2-pc set and MUST be refinished together. EXTREMELY careful to remove as little material as possible. This Gerotor set fits PRECISELY into the cavity on the backside of the Charge Pump Housing. Removing excessive material (making it thinner) MAY be detrimental in that now the cavity will be too deep. It would be a good idea to sand smooth the backside of the Charge Pump Housing to make the cavity less deep in order to retain the precise fit of the Gerotor Set. THRUST WASHER: this is HARD steel and not easy to sand. If scratched, just flip it over.

Good man Willa ... sounds like you got your heart set on an RJ ...so be it! Don't worry about the no hood color. .that's just paint. He might deny it but @pullstart uses hoods for welding tables! Look it over good. Lift up the rear, they are very light, and check for any movement up and down in the axles. Check for weeping seals in the tranny. Ask the seller to start it and look for smoke. Don't be too surprised if ther is some on startup. Gotta remember this is a 50+ YO tractor. Run it thru the gears seller allowing . Grille the seller like a sammich on what he knows about it and what he might have done to it. Scope out his facilities if possible just to clue yourself in on his mechanical abilities and if things have been just thrown together or the seller really has shown it some love. Ask him if he is a member here and uses our advise. ... heck maybe we even know him ..small world ya know. These and many more things are just dickering points. Don't lowball and offend the seller but don't overpay. An RJ unless it was well loved is not really the kind of tractor to do well unless it was loved. You mentioned earlier you would prefer to have a tractor you did not want to do alot of work to ... make sure that holds true. Don't be afraid to pass if things don't feel right, plenty of other horses in the pasture, and just chalk it up to a nice ride with the missus. Good luck and keep us posted.

That is why these are a must.

We got 'im boys !! Another addi.... Uhhh.... Wheelhorse appreciator....

@bottjernat1 @stevasaurus @WHX24 those are all really nice rigs ya got there! @ebinmaine and everyone else in this thread thank you so much for all the help and explaining. I was seriously looking at the 520hc but then found the RJ and was debating between the two. I think the style of the RJ and all of your comments and advise I believe I'm gonna go with an RJ to start out with. I appreciate all of it and in gonna give him a call tomorrow. Talk to wife into taking a ride this weekend have a look. Its only an hour away! Thanks everybody! I will be most most days here now hah

Seems like you've got a decent list there already. That's good. Oil has about 50 million opinions. funny thing is pretty much all of them are correct as long as you CHANGE THE OIL.. I just did a thread on Kinetix brand oil. during my research about it I learned a fair amount about zinc and phosphorus and why it should matter. I'll let you read down through the thread because there's a lot of very valuable information in there but the end result of it is CHANGE YOUR OIL. Transmission oil. 8 speed or hydro? 8 speed. Pretty much any 90 weight or 80w 90. hydro. I can't really answer that because I don't have any experience in it yet. Wheel studs. For the sake of your sanity and ease of installation of the rear wheels. INSTALL REAR WHEEL STUDS. Change ALL the fuel line. Pop the carburetor off and clean it out and rebuild it. Easy job. File the points. I don't know enough about that later model C series wiring system but double check all your grounds and it never hurts to add extra ground. Make very sure that your battery ground is going directly to the engine. I'm sure I'll have more things that come to mind as others post.

Jim 857 is a go to worker of mine! She a got new axle bearings this winter and maybe a motor refresh next winter. Time for some 857 pics! Just one of the many great things about RS is the way the pics just pop at ya not those itty bitty thumbnails like other sites! Did I mention the fellas like their pics here Mr. Walker?!?!

To all, Thanks for the responses. I thought it would be 80 or 90 weight oil, more like the rear end on a car. As an aside, the tractor was my Dads back from 196-67. I probably starting mowing the yard about then, it has lasted thru a few Ohio homes and is now with me in Florida. If I can keep it running I will give it to my son. 8HP Kohler engine, I have the dozer blade for it also. May run forever.

This is apparently how we spell "STOP" in Pennsylvania...

When I was a young lad, the village I lived in had a railway station. One day some mates and I were waiting for a train. The station and furniture was in the prosses of being repainted. On the ground by a freshly painted bench seat was WET PAYNT in chalk. A mate pointed out the misspelling to one of the painters. "Made you take notice though", he said.

I love it when you make up a nice label, and when you're done, you realize you misspelled a word. They had a guy do some parking lot painting at work, and spelled trucks as "truks"..... I always liked the old dymo labelmakers, guess they would be considered "retro" now