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Every weekend that Notre Dame has a home game one of the things we look forward to is the low flying military aircraft coming over the house. I don't know if it's practice runs or they are just putting on a show for the locals but it's cool. This week it was two large prop planes, maybe cargo? I couldn't manage to get both of them in one picture but the two of them were close. It never fails to send chills down my spine. Even more so when the fighter jets go over. Their speed and noise combined with the low altitude rattle the entire house. These big guys seemed to fly so slow that I could keep up with them on my Wheel Horse.

Just got back from a Facebook marketplace haul less than ten miles away. He was asking $100 for all of it and I offered $50 and he took it No plans for it yet but I couldn't resist it!

@cafoose I remember in 1989 when I went to my local dealer to purchase a WH and found the 312-8 was in my price range and unfortunately the 520-H sitting next to it with a price tag of 4000.00 and another 700.00 got you a 42'' SD deck not something that a lot of customers were willing to dish out unless you really knew what a WH tractor was capable of and to this day it amazes me that someone could let a beautiful piece of USA machinery end up in that state. I applaud you for bringing that home and saving it in some way to let yourself or others possibly let it live on. Thank you

Last week one day these three bi planes flew over our house. They were all painted yellow and we’re flying pretty slow too.

I have had a rear clevis hitch on 1 or the other of my 520s for past 20 years and had a trailer pin hitch adapter made for it to pull my 17cuft wagon over full of sand/gravel and moldboard plowing plus heavy Brinly style box blade repairing 1/4 mile dirt/gravel driveway for many years not broken yet and I'm not easy on my equipment.... You may want to visit here before building your hitch... https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hitches-liftkits.html ... He has every thing you need the clevis hitch rockshaft cable and guide tube.... I just checked out your other posts with the 3pt rear attachment and 12v linear actuator... Just throwing you out another idea ... Make a clevis hitch adapter for you 3pt and no need to make it like the factory version.

Wheel Horse axle seal for the 701 is 1232 replaced by 100863 SKF or CR (Chicago Rawhide) replacement is 9815 Napa has SKF or CR seals Garry

The hoods on the tractors on the ends are original paint - and were not pampered. Wiped the hoods with WD-40 to remove any gunk - and then a quick application of Mother's mag wheel polish brought them back to life. Hood on the middle tractor was repainted. Looked good - but did have some orange peel. Used Mother's mag wheel polish to reduce the orange peel and improve the shine.

Yes I really like those tires too. They would look good on any round hood but RJ's and 'Burbs especially. Those might be a good choice for the front of this since original style tires are almost non-existent. Unless I can find some other block style tire. Giving thoughts to have this my winter project or at least get it running and driving.

We get RAF planes over every so often. Mainly fighter jets on practice/training flights. Sometimes if there's an exercise on the Hercules. They come over that low at times, you can see the pilots. About 20 yrs back, during a big exercise, six chinooks came over together at 1-30 am. The noise was deafening. I reckon no-one was asleep between Carlisle and the Solway coast.

So I finally dug my WH out of storage and finally reassembled it! - I had unfortunately mothballed it *forever*. I had moved to full time at my work shortly after pulling my tractor down which put the project hold, dragged on for a year to which I put all my parts in storage (got heaps of new parts during that first year), pushed the chassis around the garage as vehicles changed around it. I lost hope in that I would ever have it back together again as a complete tractor - even gave my hub caps out to a 260 series that I gave my grandparents. This is just after I got it all out, I removed the ignition coil and tins from the engine - I had to guess a little but it all made sense in the end. The hardest part I found was putting the wiring loom back, since it was so long since I removed it (and I don't see any of these tractors at work) I had completely forgotten the correct routing. What is also missing is table full of parts in bags. Just put the engine back in sheet metal was just sitting on the frame at that stage Looking a bit better here (had the loom in) - still sporting the original Dico's.... (what is missing is that I had the tractor together shortly after this photo but didn't take any photos for 13 months - oops) Second wind about a year on since the tractor was put together, brought the deck into work to asses how bad it was - I had stored the deck out under a tarp for the 3+ years since getting the tractor so I was expecting the worse, but it was surprisingly in amazing shape. I didn't clean out from the guards when I got the tractor so there was still grass from the PO there, little bit of bubbling on the stiffener plate but otherwise in really good shape. Spindles were dry but have responded to greasing the idler bearing is good (really unusual for me as almost every customers machine I work on needs idlers). The reunion/marriage of the deck back to the tractor! I replaced the front tyres here also was a fun night.... (had the rears done earlier at work) So, I have my hubcaps back and I have polished them back up again but they are not the same was they where sadly - I will take real photos with my camera if the weather holds. I did forget one thing, the return spring on the PTO lever. I was really stoked when I started the deck up and it was whisper quiet, no vibration through it also - very pleased with my tractor!

I'm new to the Wheel Horses and never owned one I started to fix mower on the side and resale them to make extra money and one day I got a message from a guy that said he had a wheel horse mower if I come pick it up I can have it so I asked the story on it and they said it stopped running and they took it to a shop and they told them due to them not making them know more they would have to fabricate a part inside the engine and it would cost 3000 dollars they said know why so I ended up picking it up and the next day I went out turned the motor over by hand it had compression so I drained to 3 year old gas , replaced fuses , and cleaned all the wires up put new gas in and a new fuel filter charged the oil and filter and put a new battery in it with hopes it would maybe start I turned to key and it turned over so I turned the fuel line on and sprayed a little carburetor cleaner down the carburetor and turned the key again and it fired right up and after riding it around my year I fell in love with it I just had to share my story with everyone

Hell yeah ! Nice parts score!!

Patients ran out while waiting for an email back from M.E.Miller so I took @857 horse's advise & gave them a call. The sweet lady that answers the phone informed me that they only have 1 of these tires at this time. They are waiting on a container with new stock but they do not have an ETA at this time. I'm mot sure if you all were aware of this fact. M.E.Miller does not buy these tires from Firestone. They pay a royalty to Firestone and have them reproduced by another source. She put me on the waiting list and will notify me when they come in. I'm glad that they are not discontinuing them.

Yes, this original post is kind of old. Since the original post I added a grader blade and found a pristine set of red-horse hubcaps (not pictured) I also have a sickle bar for the 552 beside it (courtesy of @AMC RULES) that I have to restore.

Case 130 update it is a roller now,trans oil changed,hydro lines repaired,steering repaired,next step is to get engine running.

Hello Everyone, First off I would like to say this is a great forum, heaps of information, helpful people and respect for machinery! This is the story of my Horse, it was traded in at work on a new machine (not sure what the customer bought but in my opinion they got the raw end of the deal), I was immediately interested in it as I have seen a lot of lawn tractors but nothing like this before, it was in a sad and sorry state it did not run but the panels were all straight and was complete. I got it home and replaced the battery and checked over the engine, it cranked and started once primed, the sound of the Onan roaring to life is amazing. I have done some cleaning on it, polishing the hubcaps makes it stand out, they are not perfect but look good still! My intent is to give it a good clean, fix anything that is on the way out or missing. I am currently tossing up having to repaint some areas around the pump and bonnet, I know since it is after 1990 'Toro Red' is the preferred colour over Rust-Oleum Regal Red, what is everyones thoughts? And here is some pics! Love at first sight! After its clean (looking good) Getting down and dirty (Probably the heaviest engine i have had to move) Yummy, frequent cleaning would have prevented this (and a air blower would help) After its clean! Will keep you all posted!

If you clean the parts, grind a chamfer on each side to be welded, clamp the two pieces tightly and heat them prior to welding you will have greater success. Even cast steel has a granular structure that will fracture if only heated at one point.

Change over 1997 Toro 520H.

done painting for now, just touching up the foot board, engine is back in, time for re-assembly...

I hope so Ed. I'll have a weight box slipped into the receiver hitch if I need more weight. Right now I'm figuring on just dropping a bag of river rock in it. What do those weights weigh on the back of yours? To follow up on my comment "If everything goes as planned " just a few minutes ago we found out that it did. Next Friday is the closing day

The 103480 is a NO (Normally open) switch. Contacts are closed when the rocker is pressed. The 98-2392 switch has 2 pairs of contacts. Wide terminals are NO and narrow terminals are NC. It may work if it mounts the same. Wide terminals may also be a problem unless they are what we usually see and the narrow are about 3/16" wide. Have seen those but rare. Click on the picture Garry Didn't the speed control stick move from the hoodstand to the steering column about this time? May be the reason for the switch change.

@formariz Easy fix.

I ran across this guy on YouTube recently, and I'm really enjoying listening to his versions of some old blues tunes, the word "authentic" comes to mind. Turns out he lives a couple hours from the little town in South Carolina where I grew up so many decades ago, and I'm hoping to take a road trip down that way sometime soon, check out the old neighborhood, that sort of thing, and maybe get to see him play live if the stars line up just right.

Here is the pictures of my other 3 like I said they need alot of work but the motors are not locked up and the shifters all move so will see in time

I have a couple round nose models that are in line for resto's. I'd like to do one up with ag's and one with the Town & Country's. Not sure which one will have which tires yet. I'm thinkin' both will end up with these tire on the front.https://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/4-00-8/4-80-8-firestone-turf-guide-4-ply/ That's not set in stone yet though.

I have sold a lot of stuff on and if I used their shipping I got a 25% discount with USPS. I always chose the Free Shipping option and feel buyers like it better that way. I have had a couple of lost packages that the USPS won't even refund the shipping cost on, but the insurance cost so much it isn't worth it. I have found that packages that won't go through the machines always make it to the buyer. Packages like this one may aggravate the USPS, but it gets to the recipient.

Hey I see you have the electric start. What is the model number ? RE??. Mine is a RR-65. Also I see the double pedals up front.. brake/clutch? Even though these REOs are much older I find more information on them then the RR 832 Work Horse. I like how low to the ground the REOs sit. The seat on the REO is about 6 inches lower then on the Work Horse. Your photo makes me laugh at the huge yard you have and then the little mower. Please tell me you never had to use that mower to cut all that grass! I like both of mine but like I said I dont have much of a yard. I would be interested in letting them go and moving on to next project. My memories of cutting the lawn as a kid was on an old Ariens RER. Its the memories of shoveling the snow with a shovel I want to forget !!

I think you'll be amazed at the traction with those rubber chains Bob. With steel chains, I could not get up my steep paved driveway with the plow or blower raised. I had to plow down only and circle around thru the grass to get back to the top. With the rubber chains I can plow up and down.

I figured I'd take advantage of the beautiful day and get my 05 ready for winter. If everything goes as planned we'll have some 300'+ of blacktop drive to clear so I decided to go with these Terra Grips instead of the steel chains I've been using.

You should do a detailed step by step with pictures

My thoughts exactly. I'm actually thinking maybe a predator Retirement will be here before I know it

Those are 20 lb each Bob. I actually have removed 1/2 of them and I still have good traction. So I have 100 lb on the rack plus the wheel weights that are around 50lb. each. And 175 lb of ED.

Nice match on the patina like you said earlier. That was a good addition. You can get rid of the ads and have unlimited photos if you become a supporter. Always a great idea as that's what keeps this website running.

yes - agree it can be annoying ; cutting grass with an Onan powered Wheel Horse can be annoying as stuff will fly everywhere I keep extra supply of the foam pre-filters on hand and change more often don't be tempted to not pre-treat or use less oil (or whatever) on the pre-filter just to prevent more dirt and foreign substances from being attracted to the pre-filter - that would be counter productive ; the job of the pre-filter is to trap that stuff and keep it out of the filter (and engine)

The switch you show is EMB602.... search for that... there's a few on ebay. Or check with a local appliance repair.... they are refrigerator light switches.

My brackets are not keyed so have to play with their location when the idler bolt is tightened. Maybe that is what they tried to eliminate by keying them. I can see it being needed to keep the belt in the idler pulley. Can you trim some metal off the front of the bracket so it does not contact the belt with the pedal down? Wonder if the clutch pedal rod trunnion on the left side could be lengthened enough to prevent the bracket from contacting the belt and still allow shifting? Garry

I don't think that was ever the intended purpose of that bracket. Mine are adjusted so the bracket does not contact the back of the belt and it works great. If the belt won't stop driving with the clutch pedal down something else is wrong. Garry

from the looks of your connectors, one of the first things i would do , just to verify power flow , is to lightly sandpaper the male side of the plug , to enhance the connection , and use a small amount of DIELECTRIC GREASE on the pug in ends, that by itself might give you a sign of life. you can also find those connectors on line ,giving you the opportunity to cut out and remove the problem . good grounding is vital to that dash area, and making up a couple of grounding wires , from chassis is easy. jmoo, pete

Ok Dan ... here's the real deal...what resto are we planning that would incurr the use of these tires? Time here to give us hints! Paint? Orginal?? Inquiring minds want to know! No need to mention model nos here since bank of J&C financed most of your tractors!

Click on the picture Garry

I don't burn gas in my truck. I bought a 2013 ford f150 in 2013. Took it straight to the shop and had it converted to run on CNG. Have 73000 miles on it now and never had any problems. I pay $1.39 per gallon for CNG and also can run on gas if I want to. I have only run on gas if I am in an area that does not have any CNG services in their town. Still get the same mileage and same power as if I was using gas. I know there are some states that you can't find CNG but most of the places I go I find it without any problems.

Too bad I wasn't dealing with this four years ago. I used to work in Lewisburg.

I agree ... why is the starter running with the engine? Unless of course you mean a starter generator. If that's the case, a cheap bearing likely will fail. I've had that countless times. Always buy quality, inspect your work, and get it right the first time. These are quite simple. A shop manual and quality parts go a long way, even in simple repairs. ..This isn't a vintage British sports car. You can't give up this easy

"Why do I even try?" Because when you finally figure out the problem, it makes me feel proud to accomplish it. Keep plugging away(my suggestion), OR, imo it's completely fine to pay someone to figure it out. I do that occasionally. Either way, Good luck! Cory

Working on Moms John Deere it became apparent I needed a set of snap-ring pliers that was a little more stout than the Craftsman set I have ( with the interchangeable tips). The Craftsmans are fine for the lighter duty stuff but once you get into the heavier ones they (the tips) start to twist & bend under load . Did my homework and watched some reviews and decided on the Icon brand @ Harbor Freight .If anyone's familiar with Sears' "companion" line of tools , I would put these in the same category. Well made , decent price and fairly heavy duty .

953, I planned on doing just that. I work pretty slow though so I wanted to wait until everything was complete and then post it all at once. When I post the HY-2 Rockshaft build I plan on posting drawings for every part except the pump and cylinder itself. It seems every time I see a post about one someone is missing a bracket or a pulley etc. So since I now have a complete one, minus a rockshaft. ( I have a later model shaft where the cylinder mounts to the foot rest area) I plan om helping everyone else out.

Was a nice cool evening after work today, so I loaded up the 753 and brought it to our new house. Kids really enjoyed going for a ride. Going to build a barrel train to pull behind it in the near future.

All good advice and may be worth Pinning this Thread somewhere. Just something to consider. You may already have what you need to torque the 3/8" Square Head Screws/Bolts in your Tool Boxes. I'm sure someone must do the same. If you have a Male Hex drive Socket of reasonable size you can use this set up- Works well for me, saves buying another Socket and it's a square (4 point) socket = less burring risk. Only drawback is retaining the final 3/8" drive socket on the Hex drive end as it's not magnetic. I just use a piece of clear plastic bag over the hex drive end a push the final socket on to hold it there.

The front frame half was badly broken so instead of trying to weld it up I got a frame from a 58 and and cut the spot welds off the front half and modified it to a 57 Brian