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Today's turnout of red at the pull. My 2 at the end then dad's 2 in the middle then a friend's two closest.

NFL....nope. This was the scene from my dining room this afternoon while I watched the Ravens and Steelers. There were actually two eagles feeding on this road killed deer all day. Only one would feed as the other stood sentry about 100 yards away. They showed no aggression to the raven and seemed to feel more comfortable when the raven was feeding. It appeared they welcomed the second pair of eyes to watch for danger. The deer is about 70 yards from my back door.

Got the dual mounted up and plow mounted let's go roll some dirt

The Machine got a fluid change and a new stack, didn't want to scare any diesels away

Well got a message yesterday from a friend of the family saying they had a wheelhorse they wanted to sell...and even though I have 2 under the knife as we speak I was naturally curious. All she said was it has 500 special on it. So we wet out today and found it was in fact a 500 special and was in pretty good shape ( except the mower deck that had been cut and welded). Don’t know much about these except the basics so if someone could chime in with some details I’d appreciate it as always. Plus at $100 I couldn’t leave it to A. Rot or B. Go to someone who wouldn’t appreciate it so we made room in the shop for it.

Working on Moms John Deere it became apparent I needed a set of snap-ring pliers that was a little more stout than the Craftsman set I have ( with the interchangeable tips). The Craftsmans are fine for the lighter duty stuff but once you get into the heavier ones they (the tips) start to twist & bend under load . Did my homework and watched some reviews and decided on the Icon brand @ Harbor Freight .If anyone's familiar with Sears' "companion" line of tools , I would put these in the same category. Well made , decent price and fairly heavy duty .

Hardly offensive. If it wasn't for the I-H red... our early model W-H tractors would have left the factory naked.

Went about 150 miles south yesterday into Jim's @oliver2-44 territory to a show I'd never been to, but will definitely be going back. Jim had another event to go to and unfortunately wasn't able to come. Here are pictures of just a few things that were at the show. I'm sure my phone would have run out of memory had I taken pictures of everything! The first picture was taken on the way to the show at a gas station. Yes, that is a huge shopping cart with a big block Chevy on it.

Uh oh just can't stop thought I was done buying thought of selling off acouple I guess not, with all these big hp hydros @PeacemakerJack has been talking about and posting picture plowing really has me in the mood which lead me to buy this today... @PeacemakerJackand @WHX24 got me hooked, also have to thank my wife for letting me buy another one on short notice, I'll make a thread on the tractor

Update on Scottie: It is now October 6, 2019 and I realized that I have not posted anything since Scottie's last surgery. So here I am updating you all on his progress and what has been keeping Scottie and I pretty busy. On July 30 Scottie had his reconstructive surgery to reconnect his bladder and urethra. He came home on his birthday and had two catheters in place. He had one supra pubic catheter and one urethral catheter in. We had to wait until September 5, 2019 to have a check up and cystogram done on his bladder. Our appointment for the cystogram was at 9 am and we had a consult with the surgeon at 11 am. We got called into our appointment for the cystogram. What is a cystogram? A cystogram is a test that requires a special dye that goes into Scott's bladder and they have a machine that takes pictures of his bladder as they fill the bladder and empty his bladder. All of the images that were taken of his bladder and urethra came out better than what the surgeon expected. Since there were no complications the surgeon decided that the urethral catheter had to come out and see how Scottie does peeing through his penis. The surgeon was worried that Scott would leak through his penis and we had to let him know if that happens. We left and went to go get breakfast and came back for our 11:00 consult with the surgeon. Once we made it back to the clinic Scott had to go to the bathroom and he peed a little bit without leaking. We arrived at our appointment and we were told that we need to watch Scott for leaking, painful urination, straining during urination, and of course no peeing through his penis. Scott informed the surgeon that he peed just before the appointment and the surgeon was surprised. He and I both were surprised that Scott peed without difficulties and had no leakage. We were set home with a new regime on how to care for Scottie...basically we have to retrain his bladder how to pee again and we have to stretch out his bladder like it was before the car accident. I have to call Rochester weekly and let them know how it is going and if we are having difficulties. How is his retraining going? Well, we have to remind him to go to the bathroom every hour and ask him different questions about his urine flow. We have been improving on reminding him to urinate as he is able to do that himself now. We did however have a little setback this past weekend where Scottie had a major bladder spasm and his urine flow was restricted and he had to strain to urinate. I called Rochester and explained to them what was going on and they wanted to do another cystogram on his bladder and after that would see what our next plan would be. We went over to Rochester on Wednesday and had the cystogram done. Later that day, I received a phone call from the surgeon we found out that Scottie's urethra and bladder surgery was successful and that the area looks and operates like it did before the accident on December 12, 2018. However, he has another issue where his sphincter is not relaxing for him to urinate. He was placed on a new medication called Flomax and he takes it in the morning for 5 days and then we have to notify Rochester how he does and move forward. However, the medication is not working like anticipated and so I have to call them on Monday and see what our next plan is. Scott has started 10th grade and he is taking a full course load all while being home bound for school. His classes that he takes are American Studies 10, English 10, Chemistry, Geometry, Algebra 2, Choir, and Agriculture Mechanics. He is only about a day or two behind the rest of his classmates and until he got a new medication he was asking for more homework. Now with the new medication, he is tired more and has headaches, and is cold most of the time. We do have another appointment with the brain doctor about his concussion and we will find out what medication they want to put him on for that. All in all, we received good news and at the same time we also know it will be long road before he can go back to school another 4 to 6 months. We truly appreciate the prayers and support you all have given to us through out this time and we know that God is here every step of the way. God Bless you and your families and just know that we love you all like family and we appreciate you being there for us every step of the way.

Mounted and tried out the new to me cultivators (that came with the donor 520-H) on the 418-A. Worked good for first run. Needs some minor adjustments and more weight. Oh, and finally put the new Wheel Horse decal on the back of the seat pan.

Took two of my Horses to a tractor show yesterday. I rode around on the C160 and a buddy of mine drove the C120. Got there, unloaded both of them, and the C120 wasn't charging. Cleaned the connections at the regulator and fixed that issue. Gassed them up and hopped on the C160 and it wouldn't start. No power to anything. Looked around and found a taped wire splice under the dash. Rigged it temporarily with a wire nut and we were good to go! Drove around for few hours at least and used less than 1/4 gallon of gas each. Not to shabby! This was the first time I've had any real seat time in the C160 since I bought it. One thing that I came away with from that show was that I hate the muffler on the C120. Noisy thing! You couldn't tell the C160 was running when next to it.. let alone talk to someone!

At a house party last weekend, saw a sad looking horse in the bushes beside the back yard. Mentioned it to the homeowner, who said he bought it at a farm sale around 12 years ago. He used it until the deck on the C-195 self-destructed about 8 years ago. It was running poorly, and he had just bought a full size tractor/loader, and a zero turn mower, so he stuck the WH in a corner of the garage. Then he needed room for another car, so it went to the edge of the yard about 5 years ago, intending to sell it. Never got around to it. Then he said the magic words: "Want it? Take it." I picked it up last night. It's rough. It was repowered by the original (?) owner, with a Kohler 18 magnum. Engine seems seized, but I can see a nest under the tins. First move next weekend will be to clear that and see what impact it has on the engine, if any. I'll be closing the camp in a few weeks, so I won't be doing much to this one until Spring. If the nest isn't the seizure problem, I plan on loading the cylinders with ATF/acetone 50/50, and letting them cook over the winter. It's missing the air cleaner cover, the right side belt cover, and the rear PTO parts. The PO doesn't remember if PTO parts and side cover were on it when he got it, or not. The floor and dash plates were off it and under the hood when I picked it up. I'm going back next weekend to root around in the brush to see if anything got buried in the leaf debris. The biggest concern I have is that the tractor rolls easily. When I asked the PO if the Hydro was disengaged, I got a blank stare. He asked me what I meant. He told me that he had to push it with the Kubota because " it wouldn't roll in neutral" . I hope the tranny isn't completely shot. Here are the ID numbers for the WH and the engine: WH: ID # : 19KE01-24426 2182 (appears below the ID number) Kohler: Model: M18S ?????: 24543 (Sticker is behind muffler shield; couldn't read what this number designates) Serial: 1618805556 I got my C-161 running with help from here, but that was a piece of cake compared to this. I've never attempted anything potentially this extensive. Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Happy Birthday @19richie66, we are all glad you were born!

Was it knocking prior to this? Seems odd that it would be running fine and then lock up when idling. Did you try turning it by hand to see if it is in fact locked up? I've heard of the balance gears on these engines (assuming yours has them) breaking and causing the engine to lock up, usually catastrophically. If this is what happened, having it happen when idling might have been your saving grace. People have done engine swaps but anything you put in it is going to require some level of modification. I'd pull the engine off and pull the pan and see exactly how bad the damage it is. Putting a few new parts in your current engine might prove to be easier and cheaper than swapping to a modern engine. If you just want to swap something in for a while and be done with it, look on craigslist or Facebook marketplace for another K series. You might find one pretty reasonable.

That might explain why some people think they're rare up in that area. Only one person has them all. Nice display Dan!

953, I planned on doing just that. I work pretty slow though so I wanted to wait until everything was complete and then post it all at once. When I post the HY-2 Rockshaft build I plan on posting drawings for every part except the pump and cylinder itself. It seems every time I see a post about one someone is missing a bracket or a pulley etc. So since I now have a complete one, minus a rockshaft. ( I have a later model shaft where the cylinder mounts to the foot rest area) I plan om helping everyone else out.

I use a socket and extensions in the hydraulic press to remove and replace the bearings. One inch impact socket works great on 1 1/8" bearings.

This is the story of how I removed a broken head bolt from the K181 in my 854. I am posting this up as it may help some of you in the future with your own issues. Use it at your own discretion, it may not be the best way of approaching this situation, but it worked well for me. A little backstory on the situation, I purchased an 854 before last winter intending to use it as my worker in the garden in the spring. Unfortunately that didn’t play out the way I had anticipated. The motor would run for 10 minutes or so and then seemingly shut off like you turned the ignition off. Mind you the only motors I have ever worked on have been Cummins diesels. Never any small engines or gas motors for that fact so this was a new adventure for me. I originally chocked this up to being a vapor lock issue caused by the fuel line heating up and boiling causing a lack of fuel in the pump/carb. After installing a longer fuel line to move it farther from the exhaust this did not solve the problem. I moved on to the fuel pump. Upon removal of the fuel pump I found a decent amount of corrosion, enough to significantly reduce the volume coming from the output. A short disassembly and cleaning later and I was shooting gas several feet from the pump while cranking. The issue persisted. Moving on to the carb, I found the carb decently clean, but disassembled and cleaned it just to be sure. With the carb reinstalled and adjusted the issue persisted. With my issue still persisting I removed the head to check for any issues I may see internally with a quick inspection. I found a piston that is obviously loose in the bore, which I expected with the blue haze this motor has while running. However I do not think that is causing the 10 minute run time, I since believe that the issue is electrical, likely coil related. But on to the real meat of this, the broken head bolt. While removing the head I broke the bolt closest to the exhaust port. This seems to be, from some of the other posts I have read here, quite the problem area. Luckily the head bolt broke approx. ½” or so above the deck of the block so I thought I could get it out. Several attempts at removing it were tried: - Apply heat with a MAP gas torch until bolt was red hot, followed by plenty of penetrating oil. (Before each attempt) - Vice Grips (Simply rounded the bolt) - Cut slot in top of bolt, use impact screw driver (Remaining bolt broke off on either side of the slot) - Welded a Nut on ( Broke 3 nuts off) I finally stopped these approaches when the bolt was approx. .125” tall for fear of damaging the deck of the block. At this point I resigned; it was time for a professional to work on the motor. I would have it bored and have them drill the bolt at the same time. So there it sat taking up space in the garage for several months, a monument to my failure while I saved some spare money to have it fixed. While my plow, disc, and cultivator gathered dust behind the shed and my garden mockingly grew up in weeds. While at work one day the thought hit me as I watched someone use a drill bushing on a tool to transfer a hole from a mating part. Maybe I should try another attempt after all that motor runs strong when it’s running so I could live with the blue haze from the loose rings. I really don’t think the issue that’s causing the motor to stop is internal since it runs so good when it is running. So I went home and measured the size of the clearance hole in the head, and armed with that information I had a friend make me some homemade drill bushings. Using some O1 rod we turned three bushings with .340” OD’s and 5/32”, ¼”, and 17/64” ID’s. I purchased a set of left hand drill bits at Harbor Freight and a center drill. I also purchased a 17/64” left hand bit from MSC. (MSC PN 81127177) and a 5/16-18 plug tap (MSC 77430080). Here are all the tools I used. The first step was to install the head back on the motor to use as a guide block. In hindsight I would have cut a 5/16 counter bore on the back side of my drill bushing to fit over the broken stub of the bolt and be sure I was lining up perfectly. However hindsight is 20/20 and I will do that next time. If your bolt is broken below the surface of the deck you could thread the end of a shaft that fits in your head and use that as an alignment dowel as well so there are several viable approaches. With the head loosely bolted down I carefully adjusted it until the gap around the bolt looked even and then cinched the head down tight. This is the last time the head will come off until the bolt is removed and I was ready to tap. After the head was situated and tight I installed the .250” ID drill bushing in the head and tapped it down gently until it contacted the bolt. A healthy shot of oil was shot in the bushing, I would recommend tap-matic or another cutting fluid but I had WD-40 at hand so I used that. The compressed propellant also works well to blow chips out if you do not have access to compressed air. Using the #3 center drill, which conveniently has a shank diameter of ¼” and the ¼” bushing I drilled a starting hole to keep subsequent drills on track. This only needs to be .050” deep or so. I quickly found that the top of my bolt was very hard. Since this was my first time using harbor freight drills, I was unsure about using the 5/32” drill, and there was already a .250” bushing in the head so I skipped that step and started drilling with the ¼” drill. I would drill ¼” deep or so slowly with moderate pressure, I found after the first ¼” or so the drilling became much easier. I must have quenched the bolt with the penetrating oil with my original attempts at removing it with heat and penetrating oil. I would periodically check my depth by marking the drill with my thumbnail and then putting the drill bit down an open hole in the head until I was sure I was deep enough. Although, the hole would if drilled too deep end up in the exhaust opening, which should not harm anything, but wouldn’t be ideal. I expected that the drill would “fall” through the dead space at the bottom of the hole, but I never experienced that even after drilling deeper than I would have ever expected. (The head bolts are only 1-1/2” long and that includes going through the head) I was impressed with the Harbor Freight drill, and it made short work of the drilling, drilling 1 ½” or so deep in short time. At this point the bushing had ridden up out of the hole with the chips built up under it and was easily removed. If this happens while drilling you will want to remove it, and blow out the hole and then replace the bushing. This ensures your drill is tracking straight at all times. I blew out the hole well, and then replaced the ¼” bushing with the 17/64” drill bushing. The reason for the 17/64” drill bushing is that it is quite close to the minor diameter of a 5/16-18” drill bit. Think of the minor diameter as the size of a bolt if you removed only the threads, the solid portion left inside is the minor diameter. This means when I drill out with this size, if I am centered well, only the threads should be left in the block. Depending on how stuck the fastener is the left hand bit may even catch some of the threads and spin them out, otherwise all of this work could be performed with cheaper and easier to obtain right hand standard drills. As with the previous size the 17/64” drilling went well, and it even pulled out the first few threads. I proceeded in much the same way only drilling ¼” or so then stopping to blow out the hole, clean the drill bit, apply more lube, and push the bushing back in the head, while checking depth against another hole in the block. A short time later I had a drilled out hole, and it was time to remove the head again after thoroughly cleaning the area to prevent metal chips from migrating to the cylinder bore. With the head removed I was relieved to see that my hole appeared to be well centered on the bolt and I moved on to the tapping operation. Much to my delight it threaded almost as easy as the tap turned in an already tapped hole, simply pushing the remaining threads out of the hole. I stopped every few threads and backed up to break any chip that was forming, as well as stopping every ½” or so to blow out any chips. Again being careful to not introduce them to the valves (Motor turned to be on the ignition stroke so both valves are closed) or the cylinder bore. Job successfully completed! I purchased some new bolts today to reinstall the head, and will be picking up some anti seize as well to thoroughly lube the hole up. I am not a member yet, but when I have some extra cash I will be, and at that point I will upload some of the multitude of pictures I took during this process if anyone is interested in those. After that it’s on to seeing if a new coil, condenser, spark plug wire, and spark plug fixes this thing for good!

So here we go again...As soon as I finished up the last wheel barrow conversion I knew the Wheel Horse & Sylvan Lake Western RR was gonna need more capacity...two simply wasn’t enough to meet the demands of the nieces & nephews... So... I saved an old folding chair cart from the scrapper along with some beat up old metal folding chairs... It will hold 4 chairs in line. Plan is to put in a floor, secure the chairs, add seat belts, paint frame red, chairs and hitch black. Thinking of using extra set of rears that came with my recent WHrat WHrecker build...should raise whole thing up to perfect height for level platform... Will become car #3 in the Wheel Horse & Sylvan Lake Western RR... seating for 6-8 depending on passenger size... Pic of the frame so far and the existing RR cars it will attach to...

Small show here but Dan @Achto obviously likes to strut his stuff in his hometown. Me thinks you are hoarding Dan! He even picked up a vertical 210 for the outrageous price of $0.00 for the occasion! More pics tommorow but no guarantees ..we'll see what we can do. Weather outlook is not promising. I have five ther now with four more to haul in the AM. I can not count how many he has ther without taking my shoes off and it's too wet for that! Not looking to be good as we are the only ones with GT's ther. Usually more guys set up by now Dan says.

Still going thru our extensive stash, I'm 99% sure but can anyone confirm - are these genuine Wheel Horse ?

I just rebuilt my Kohler carburetor. My throttle shaft was very lose with .0025 play in the shaft I read that the following bronze thrust washers work well as bushing. I installed two and no more slop.

Yep. you need the "mule drive" and a belt. You can use a vice grip pliers to adjust the mule drive and tighten the belt.

Thanks everybody. I had a great day. Good church service, blessed with great friends, family and good food. I’d call that a good day.

What! You're not gonna let a little rain scare you out of some seat time are you?! I've been out today in the rain cutting grass that hasn't been cut All summer long!This 414-8 did not let me down ! The rain felt good although I had to stop once because it was just coming down too hard. We had 99 90 + temps this year!. She did get a bath though after all that cutting ! I took the 42 inch RD deck off andput this 48 on in . Makes for a quicker job!

Have a lot of dead trees I’ve been cutting down all summer, finally bought a log splitter so I can use it.

Thank you all so much for the reply's. @Crazywheelhorseman, that would be great! @pacer, i had seen a couple of those kits, but I don't see the float in them? Shouldn't it come with a float? I've also heard some say that switching to a better made float can help, but again, I cant find the floats anywhere, even in those kits. I'll check into the vent for the gas cap @bcgold. Again, I want to thank you all for the quick responses. Really hoping to get this D running good. My son (13) is a wheel horse fanatic. Started with a B80 last year. He has a small farmstand that he pulls around the neighborhood with it. He was very excited to upgrade to the D, both for pulling the wagon, as well as to do some of the garden work next year. He is so anxious to have it running right. He also plowed some driveways in the neighborhood with the B80 and he hopes to be able to do that with the D once it's running right.

Whoooo hooo!!!!!! Starts and runs. Now i have the issue of figuring out why it goes so fast with the hydro barely engaged

I love this tractor!!!! J&C PD is only 13 days away...NOT THAT IM COUNTING DOWN OR ANYTHING

Kohler flathead engine are cooled by air and the oil inside it. The lower the RPMs the less air is blowing on it to cool it and the oil is not circulating as fast, neither are good for an air cooled engine . I think Kohler recommends WOT when running. A few years ago I ran a 12 hp at full throttle for few minutes and checked the temp of the head and the side cylinder fins with my digital thermometer, then ran it at idol for the same length of time and checked the temps again. I don't remember the exact numbers but the temps at idol were way higher then at full throttle . Other than saving a little gas, no real reason to run it at low RPMs, run that thing a full throttle, that's what it's built for .

Me too! That is a Cub muffler on Zach’s tractor. It tones down an otherwise super loud 16hp single. If you must stay Wheel Horse or you have one available to you, I have also found the 300 series mufflers used with the Magnum singles to be quiet yet functional... 774E46CD-9968-48EB-8C23-04FDF8C3D3CE.MOV

There are those that will NEVER let an air cooled engine idle other than right before shutdown. Air cooled engines need airflow and most are splash oil lube systems as well. We don't ever let ours set at less than 40 to 50 percent throttle. Also, it's just a use of fuel to let it sit like that. Start it. Warm it up for 3 to 5 minutes. Use it... Shut her down til next use.....

quick update....no video yet but the motor does run. Was really excited to hear that old Kohler fire up. Will need to clean the carburetor and the fuel pump. Hope to possibly get that done today and maybe a video of it running.

I just bought a C-175 with a mower deck and snow blade (not running) for $150. I'm pretty sure I paid to much for it (sitting on 4 flat tires) but, I just love the way it looks! Even though there rear tires are flat and have huge cracks, those 23x10.50 bar grip tread make it look tuff!! Plus the owner said "It was running when I parked it" in 2003!! I intend to do a full on restoration after I hear it run. It has 1525 hours on the clock. That sounds like a TON for this little guy.

I love the Black-Hood years! I’ve had a whole bunch of em come thru here and there is always at least one in my small collection, right now it’s a C105. Wide Ag tires do have a cool look don’t they . Even flat with dry cracking they catch yer eye! If they don’t hold air maybe a set of tubes will get em back in service.

Some years there are 4 or 5 Wheel Horses at Zagrays, this show there were a whole lot more! Some shows it’s just @wallfish and me but this show there were WH guys all over including a good showing of Red Square guys! I’m sure I missed somebody, sorry. @Docwheelhorse @SALTYWRIGHT @stevebo @Brennanbo @VinsRJ @grnlark @Chris T @whtractors24 @Retierd Wrencher I hauled 3 of mine and came home with one less...that wasn't the plan . Couple pics.....

Please review post #7 before attempting to remove the throttle plate screws. And remove any burrs on the shaft before reinstalling it in the new bushing. Close the throttle to center the plate when you tighten the screws. Use Loctite to secure the screws.

Thanks, EB. I'm pretty sure I can guarantee the questions!

I wouldn't let anything idle for 30 minutes let alone something air cooled, i think you are tempting fate.

Looks so awesome...nice work

3rd (9/16 hole) or 5th (5/8 hole) down in the link. The only difference between the 2 is the size of the hole it mounts in. If you search that same site you can find the 5 slot wire connector for the switch as well

Ooo, good point

I’ll start by replacing the fluid. Is there a decent way to “flush” the system, or is there just a drain valve? I think I have some mineral oil, I could pull a line and cycle the pump low, then top it off for a flush and drain again I suppose. There are 5 gallon buckets of hydraulic oil around here from the snow plow business.

Happpyy birrtthhddaay!!!!!

You'll learn!

Well, I’ve got the range of motion! It has slack at 7” high and pulls way above the ground. The pump is struggling, but there are two other holes. Maybe I can find more leverage up higher... maybe I should try changing the fluid in the pump?

You know Craig that I will always have a special spot for the 1965 hydros... something about growing up using one weekly. Thanks for sharing that little beauty with us

Well Josh it wasn’t planned to be Rylee’s, but she sure did take a liking to it! I am amazed how large it is, but how easy it is to drive for both big and small people. Who am I kidding, I’m not that big either, but I imagine someone of normal height could still manage just fine! Bottom line, I do ‘t plan on getting rid of it... so some day it’ll be hers or Jada’s when I’m gone The basic shape of the hitch is formed. I’ll have to tack it and work the bends together the way I feel is close enough. It seems very long, but it’s shorter than the first Brinly style hitch I made.

Finished up the transmission and got it connected to the frame. While I was waiting on transmission part gave the blast cabinet a real workout with a lot of small stuff. Then got ambitious and took the tower apart. Parts book shows the collar with the lift arms removable from the shaft. Soaked that sucker for two weeks with penetrate. Didn't even phase it. So....the tower frame complete with lift arm went into the blast cabinet. Boy was that FUN!!! The basic frame is done and the rest of the parts are getting their final coats (don't have enough "clothesline") A guy I met a while back called me last Monday and said he was going to sell his 83 C-175, plow and snow blower. Already have a nice plow and rebuilt a snow blower last summer. Not looking to rebuild another snowblower or a plow. Guess I'll have to list em on the classified.