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Today is Austin's 4th birthday and his grandfather said he could drive the tractor as soon as his feet will reach the peddles.

It was an Awesome weekend!! Received a message from a co-worker from years ago. He is also a Wheel Horse collector, tkol1969. He had put 2 and 2 together and figured out I lived two blocks away....lol His GT-14 was down at the Big Show when the GT-14 was the featured tractor that year. After I got the 1054 back up and running drove it over to his place for a "special delivery" The tool area behind the seat of the 1054 makes a good place for carrying beverages.

Being close to another collector makes the hobby much more fun! My next door neighbor and I both do the WH thing and it definitely adds to the fun. We have bought sold and traded all sorts of stuff just between the two of us! His property is about 30 acres and years ago we made a trail that was about a mile long thru the woods for our kids to ride motorcycles and quads....I bet him and I have ridden that trail with a WH tractor at least 300 times! And if I need to go his house or vise versa we just putt on over by tractor ! Mike.....

The relationship between Rocky and Bullwinkle was always a bit suspect!

If you buy wh's like I do they are too far gone to leave in the condition of patina. I also enjoy seeing how well I can bring it back to life. I also like to see some left in the state they were found if they are not too far gone.

Here are a few snaps at our little show. Ther was a real nice showing of RS members there and their horses. OK guys sorry about this but trying to upload pics via smartphone Hotspot isn't going to cut the mustard.... ( I'm too cheap to get internet at home) Will get some more up tommorow on some real hardware at my office....

My vote was for restore, because I am a "restore" kind of guy. My personal feelings are that if you want to leave your tractor as found, or oil it up, that is your prerogative. But if you are going to take the time to try to improve the looks or make major repairs, you might as well go ahead and remove and stop all the rust and corrosion at the same time. Otherwise it will continue to eat away at the metal, no matter what you put on the top surface. Clear-coat or paint over a non-repaired surface is akin to putting a band-aid on cancer.

RedRanger, in honor of your poll, here's my Red Ranger with 33 years of patina.

Well know I've owned 2 420s and currently have # 50 with 140 hours in my garage id like to buy a new one to store and use mine as a cruiser . Is there many new ones left out there at dealers etc ? Or near new ? also I'd like to do a list of all the known 420-lse out there if we could . Here is mine # 50

Trying to post my first video. I've replaced and adjusted the slack in the shifter . Installed a new shifter boot. Cleaned the fuel system replaced a hub and axle seal. Bought a drive belt cover and AG tires on wheels at the big show. Changed oil. Removed the lift for now. Replaced all the nuts and bolts and washers on the steering column and console. O K, my question is can some tell me the current part number for the drive belt that connects the engine to the transmission? Also can someone tell me the current part number for the two belts that connects the starter/generator to the Kohler engine? I can probably match the old S/G belts to something at NAPA but I don't have a drive belt that's even close to being the correct one. Thank you guys! VID_20160710_143633573.mp4

I am not a collector so I don't buy lots of tractors. I use what I do have and I like to know I have a good mechanically sound tractor. The 854 I just rebuilt was a must for a total teardown and rebuild so I built it the way I wanted it. My raider 12 will be tore down and rebuilt in the near future.. I will be making modifications as I go to suite my needs and taste as well. My profile says I like round hoods and I will have a 12 hp shorter frame 6 speed round hood with front and rear hydraulics. I say shorter frame because I want a tighter turning radius.

I prefer shinny & new looking. It is interesting though that when I go to shows and park my restored tractor next to my rusty rat, the rusty rat seems to draw more attention.

I have two 953 drivers, one is a hot rod custom and one is rusty, has no paint at all is literally as dirty as the day it was drug out of a neglected barn (had it at the Big Show) and they both get complements. I have a third 953 that I will do a full restoration on, it is one of the early ones with the Ross steering. That being said I am glad that different folks do different things, variety is what makes life interesting.

If the tractor has original paint that looks GOOD, and there is till a good amount of original paint and doesn't make it look like a basket case, then I'd leave it original. But if there's more rust or surface rust than paint, I'd restore it

The bituminous coal powered puller took it to the house today at Fawn Grove Olde Tyme Days. Running a little too rich? , Add some air. Then take her out the end. She has a really cool horn too.

I agree with redranger if it still looks good in it's original clothes, leave it that way. If it really needs restored then have at it. Course there's nothing wrong with one that looks like it just came off the showroom floor either. It's just personal preference.

Hi Guys, I found a Tow-behind model TA1 York rake on craigslist and bought it the other day. I love it so far. I have a couple quick questions... 1.) How do you know how worn the teeth are and when they need replacement? 2.) Has anyone incorporated a weight system on the rake? If so, how? Thanks, John Essex, Ma

In the late 60s early 70s I had just got out of the Army and was living with dad at that time with my first real job. Worked 3rd shift at Dana Corp on the molding floor pouring iron. Got off one morning and stopped in for a few beers at the local tavern then went home, there was dad with this old RED tractor/mower he had just bought from someone he knew. He was just beside himself with the deal he made. I said dose it run and work ? They said it dose he says then hits the starter. Full throttle, 3rd gear I guess, foot slips off the clutch and that old WH jumped right into a new 3 car garage wall he had just built, bang. Dads butt is off the seat hanging on for dear life, bang, again hits the wall a second time, dad in the air again, bang, same thing. That old Horse just wouldn't go down. Finally he got it under control and I am on the floor rolling. Dad, not pleased. Almost 50 years have passed and that memory just stays as fresh as yesterday. Who knows why we choose RED ? I believe that memory had something to do with my choices, whats yours ?

Van, go to Napa and get a 4L700W and 2 4L310W belts. Their belts are Gates and they use those numbers. They will be the green Kevlar reinforced belts. You need the W on the end.

Even if they're only for exhibitions , i love watching those behemoths effortlessly yank a sled as far as the pilot wants without so much as a hint of wheel-spin . Mass / weight + traction will win every time . Thanks for sharing .

To the best of my memory, the old drive belt number was 1576, replaced by 9691. The common number for that belt is a 4L700, 1/2" x 70". The S/G belts are commonly known as 4L310, 1/2" x 31"

Antique tractor pulls today. Coal Power won it all ... and had a cool whistle.

We've all heard the saying "it's only original once" and it is true but yeah if ther is more rust than paint go for it. When I first aquired a certain 400 Suburban I had visions of new sparkly red with stainless hardware. I have since been made to see the light by others here that forgot more than what I'll ever know about horses so I left as is and it turned out beautiful. In the future I have since subscribed to the thinking of if it's been restored before by a half hearted attempt by a PO then go for it. It really does depend on the tractor. I have seen 953's 953 and it does have a character that demands as much attention if not more that new red.

Sqoose

not sure which was the male or female and real sure I don't want to know, thats a great picture.

Went to Old Red Rider's house today to pick up the C-121 I bought from his friend Mike at the Big Show. I was able to visit with Paul and Mike for a couple of hours before having to drive South for 205 miles back to my house. Here is a pic of what was in my rear view mirror, also a pic of the homemade Bologna and Cheese sammich I had for lunch. There was no Rhubarb pie to be found for dessert so I had to settle for Apple pie.

I voted to restore / refresh to new. I have only seen a few with a full patina that I liked. But thats just me and my opinion. I just think they look great being brought back to showroom new. Btw, thanks for starting this poll. Glenn

I didn't vote because a lot of it depends on the circumstances .

Got all the horses out to clean the barn, Well all but one that was dead [520H] no fire. But here are the rest.

Yea Mike, you could get snake bit just reaching for you key up in that neck of the woods! I had a neighbor two doors over that had the B80 I have now. We always rode our tractors over tho see each other too. He gave me that B80 when I needed some parts for my B60 and I ended up refurbishing it after it had set outside for a couple years. He was glad I did. Always was glad when I'd ride it over to see him. There's a thread about that somewhere here. He passed several years ago and I miss him an awful lot. Enjoy your friends in the hobby fellas, the memories you make will be priceless one day.

I live in Connecticut....even without my neighbor the competition is fierce ... ( Stevebo...Kenb...Jason...etc...) Mike.....

Of course, a first Richard... to get him started on the way.

They are common belt numbers which relate to size. 4L = 1/2", 310 = 31" and 700 = 70". Just take those numbers to any auto parts store and they can cross them over to Gates or any other brand. Just be sure that the drive belt you get is fabric covered. I have had much success with the Huskee blue Kevlar belts from TSC.

Steve going to go do something about his incontinence I presume .... Ed on the right. Was a great day with some good guys!

Terry M's kids I got do have some good pics of your kids without the hobo in them if you want Terry! @Terry M Mike after dickering with a guy for a box of Kohler cranks...his technique is to keep an eye on the seller then go hit him up when he's packing up to leave. You don't really want to have to load that stuff back up... make you a offer... there was a bit of a flea market & parts there. This gal (Kate??) is the editor of the garden tractor magazine I guess, was a beast of a case 4 steer she was driving!

Guys just chillin & havin good talk... l-r Shynon (Tom) , Me, Joe Bob, Terry's boy Andrew, Steve & Mike

Had to come down and open the store for a little so while I'm waiten for a guy to come get his parts had a little time to throw some more up. Joe bob's camper and in back of him was a guy named Ed who I had never met before but was a heck of a nice guy and had some dandy horses. Yours truly horses, The first on in is Shynon's Other brands This one was really cool! Always some good hit & miss stuff at this show...this year was no exception Lots of old Case tractors....

As most indicate iytreally depends on the condition of the tractor and your preference. I started out as a restore everything guy and am seeing the light on leaving some of them original. I have one that I,m riding the fence on doing a wet sand and clear coat

Nothing like those self powered enclosed trailers!

Found a little more info.... I have been researching Montgomery Wards garden tractors to find out what Manufacturer built what tractor for M/W and when they were built. There are a lot of ideas on who, what and when certain tractor were built and sold by Montgomery Wards. I hope you enjoy what I have learned through all this. This story actually starts in 1872 with a new small cast iron foundry called "The Western Malleable and Gray Iron Manufacturing Company" in Milwaukee, WI., making gray iron castings. Around 1900, Western was producing Gasoline engines under the name "Simplicity". In 1911 the plant was moved to Port Washington, WI., and continued to build engines. They also started producing 2 models of farm tractors. Thing were good for the company until the end of WW1 when Henry Ford introduced his famous "Fordson" tractor. Ford, with massive production capabilities, was able to sell his new farm tractor at a price where few could compete. Many tractor firms were forced out of business, and in 1920 Turner Manufacturing was one of them. Mr. William J. Niederkorn who worked for Turner Manufacturing, bought some of the assets and the Simplicity name. In 1922 he formed the Simplicity Manufacturing Company. The first product of the new company was a cylinder-boring machine for re-boring automobile engine blocks to be rebuilt. By 1936 the company was looking for something else to do as the "Factory Rebuilt Auto Engines" were now available. Montgomery Ward contacted Simplicity In 1937, to see if they would and could produce garden tractors for Ward to sell through their Catalog and Retail stores. Simplicity developed two garden tractor models for Montgomery Ward to sell, and soon they were very successful. Simplicity soon began to manufacture and sell these tractors through Lawn and Garden Equipment dealers all over the US under the Simplicity name. When WW-II started,, Simplicity had to stop making Lawn and Garden Products to help with the war effort. The War Board directed Simplicity to produce a variety of Industrial Machining equipment. When WWII ended, Simplicity stopped the production of Industrial Equipment and focused on the fast growing Lawn and Garden equipment business. They developed full line of Garden Tractors, Snow Blowers, Rota tillers, Riding Mowers and four-wheel Garden Tractors. They sold under both the Montgomery Ward brand name and the Simplicity name. In 1950 Montgomery Wards offered 3 models of the 2 wheeled Tractor. The 1 1/2-2hp Hoe-Trac, the 2 1/2-3hp Chor-Trac and the big 6hp Power-Trac along with over 20 various attachments. By 1955 Wards offered 5 different 2 wheeled Tractors and 2-4 wheeled Riding Tractors, made from 2 wheeled tractors fitted with a steerable rigid mounts sulky. Wards offered 36 quick change attachments for their tractors. The first fully engineered with the engine and steering axle in the front 4 wheel Garden Tractor was the 7 horsepower “Squire 7", introduced in 1959 and stayed the same for 1960-61. In 1962 a slightly more powerful engine was installed and it became the 7.25 horsepower “Squire 7 ¼”. In 1963 big changes started to take place for Montgomery Wards in their Lawn and Garden tractor lineup. M/W still offered a Simplicity built Garden Tractor, the 7 ¼hp “Squire 725”, this would be the last year for the 700 Series based tractor. Wards also offered a Bolens built “Squire 6”, based on the Bolens 600 with a different Cast Iron Grill, hood and Steering Tower. Bolens also provided M/W with several of the attachments for the “Squire 6” that they built. 1964 still saw even more changes for Montgomery Wards. Gone from the lineup was the Bolens built tractor. Simplicity supplied their new LandLord based “Squire 9” Garden Tractor and also the “Squire 6” Lawn Tractor based on the Simplicity Broadmoor. M/W also offered a Garden Tractor called the “Squire 7 ¼HP”, built by Quick Manufacturing using a Springfield Garden Tractor, but having a Cast Iron grill and different hood. Quick Man. Also provide M/W with a full line of attachments they built for their tractor. The 1965 M/W lineup was basically the same as 1964. 1966 brought more changes to the M/W Garden Tractor lineup. Simplicity built the "Squire 10 Deluxe" Garden Tractor. Quick Manufacturing provided 2 Garden Tractors, the “Garden Mark 10” and the “Garden Mark 8”. Both tractors were based on the Springfield Tractors with grill and sheet metal changes only. Simplicity still offered the Power-Trac 2 wheel tractors thru M/W. In 1967 Montgomery Wards offered 3 new Garden Tractors, the “Squire 12” with manual lift, Squire 12” with Hydraulic lift, “Squire 10” and the “Squire 8”. These tractors were produced by Gilson Tractor Co.. Gilson also provided Wards with all of their attachments to go along with their tractors. Warde still offered the Simplicity built Power-Trac 2 wheel tractor as well as all the attachments were still available. It's not known if these were leftovers from the Wards stock or if A/C continued to build and supply these. 1968 saw the same Lawn and Garden Tractor equipment available from Wards. M/W did start offering a 7 hp Riding Lawn Tractor which appears to be built by MTD although I haven't been able to back that up for sure. This is a work in progress and I will be adding more information as I gather it up. Please be patient with me. [Source: The Story of William J. Niederkorn, prepared for the Ozaukee County Historical Society, August 8, 1967, Marquette University Press, courtesy of Simplicity Manufacturing inc.] [Source: Montgomery Wards Catalogs, Farm Catalogs]

Today we held our annual Antique Engine and Tractor show, not a big show but thought I would share. These two Suburbans were at the "Big Show", the owner isn't a member here, said he isn't internet friendly! This one is for @AMC RULES Watermelon for all. Hope you enjoyed the show.

I know this subject has been addressed in several other threads, but I wanted to add my experience to all the excellent help I used on this website to help me with my dilemma. I recently took my 14 hp Kohler engine flywheel to a machine shop to have them rebalance it along with the crankshaft, piston assembly, and rod. I got a call from the machine shop to tell me the magnets in the flywheel were loose and they couldn't balance it. When I went in to inspect the "damage", they informed me they hot tanked the flywheel, which to me was a mystery since there was no grease or oil on it to require degreasing. Evidently, the hot tanking loosened the adhesive holding the magnets. So after bringing home the mess, I set out to re-glue the magnets, but I wanted to reinstall them as precisely as I could to keep the original flywheel balance intact. So after doing some measuring with the magnets positioned in the flywheel, I came up with a solution to equally space the magnets precisely around the inside diameter of the flywheel when I re-glue them. I purchased two pieces of brass tubing, one square tubing and one round tubing, both with 7/32" outside dimension. Brass tubing is non-magnetic so the magnets have no affect on their installation or removal. I cut the square tubing into lengths of 2 5/8", and the round tubing into lengths of 1 1/4". I placed the square tubing behind the magnets to hold them out from the inner edge of the machined surface in the flywheel. This will place them in their original position to align them with the alternator stator assembly when the flywheel is installed on the crankshaft. The 7/32" round tubing spacers are used between the individual magnets to position them equally around the flywheel inside diameter. 7/32" diameter will do just that with no gaps in the spacing. The tubing is just finger tight when installed, and easily removable. After thorough cleaning, I glued the first magnet with JB Weld Original grey formula, and clamped it with a paper clamp as suggested in the hilarious video seen in another thread on this subject. Then after waiting overnight for the first magnet to set up, I glued the 5 remaining magnets to the flywheel with JB Weld Original grey formula, spacing them with the pieces of tubing as described earlier The brass spacers made the positioning very easy and precise! I have attached some pics for your inspection. Unclamped magnet is the first one installed I bought a fresh pack for my satisfaction...

The 110hp Case's like the one in the video above were the first tractors with power steering. If you watch close you will notice that there is no steering wheel. Levers controlled steam to turn the spool for turning the axle.

Bet that thing is pretty much a freight train locomotive with different wheels. Thanks for sharing your pics!

This little unit came in the deal as well...not sure what it is or if it will run but I thought it was cool so I bought it lol

Hello all. Well its been testing and adjusting recently, the carb is now perfect and idle is smooth at around 850 now. and that must mean that something good must have been happening! which is exactly right! as i had the running gear and everything like that sorted, i thought put the pedals and steering wheel on and go for a ride! I have to say this is mighty fun! it feels so nice to drive and glad to have it near a good stage. Some body work parts got treatment meanwhile. Then i couldn't resist more 'testing' but it wasn't very comfortable, so for temporary use, i put the rear section back on which was better i had to say. Loving this thing, cant wait to get it finished! just a few bits to sort out. James

Update: I got her running and working! I changed the oil/ flushed all the old gas out/ cleaned everything and put her back together and bingo she runs like a dream! She is a beast. Now I need to replace the PTO clutch belt and reattach the mower deck. On the look out for a brinly plow now to expand the garden! Thank you guys for all your help and advice. This place is great. Marty

You got a good deal even if it does not run, which I think it will by the way. Here are some easy steps for bringing a wheel horse back to life that has sat a few years. Take the spark plug out and put a little marvel mystery oil in the spark plug hole. Pour about 4oz in there and just let it sit. Then remove the air cleaner assembly and backing plate being careful not to break the PCV hose in the backing plate. Then remove the float bowl from the carb, throw out the bad junk in the bowl and clean the inside of the bowl until it shines. Do not put the bowl back on yet. Get all the old gas out of the fuel tank and put in some fresh gas. Blow through the fuel tank until you have fresh gas coming out the bottom of the carb. Then put the bowl back on but not the air cleaner . If gas does not come out let us know so we can walk you through what to do then. Next if the engine oil does not have water in it or does not look like molasses then don't change it just yet. Only change it if it looks worse than just old oil as you will need to change it a couple of times after you get the engine running. Then with the transmission in neutral move the PTO lever forward and with your hand rotate the engine over several times to work the rings through any rusty spots in the cylinder. Then disengage the PTO lever. Next install a new battery, close the hood, and sitting on the tractor spin the motor over about 10 seconds to get everything used to spinning without and compression and to blow all the MMO out of the spark plug hole. Remember you will have to set on the seat, push in the clutch, and have the PTO lever disengaged . Ok now you are ready to start the engine. Take a small wire brush and clean the old spark plug. Install the plug. The actual starting procedure is best done with two people. Have a trustworthy friend sit in the seat. You are at the left front of the tractor with a can of carb cleaner. Do not use the environmentaly friendly kind. You need the regular high explosive combustible kind. DO NOT use starting fluid. This will damage the engine. High explosive carb cleaner is calmer and more like gasoline. Have the choke completely open, do not close the choke. Give the engine about half to 2/3rd throttle Have your friend turn the key to get the engine spinning and with the engine spinning give 3 or 4 quick shots of carb cleaner directly into the carb intake, when the engine fires continue giving shots of carb cleaner until the engine runs by itself on gasoline. Let it run at 1/2-2/3rd throttle for about 15 - 20 minutes then change the oil. Just use some cheap stuff first time around. The restart the engine and let it run 2/3 throttle for 30 minutes and change the oil again. This time use a good quality straight 30weight oil. Install a fresh spark plug and reinstall the air cleaner assembly with a new air cleaner . Enjoy your 312-8. The one you see in my avatar is one I bought new 25 years ago, and is still the favorite of all I have owned since. Van