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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2016 in Posts
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17 pointsSome of you know this was dealer stock sitting around for years. [LOOK IN ALMOST DONE POST.] It is not perfect some one did a paint touch up??? But I guess it came out ok. She starts up nice rides nice. I hope you enjoy the picks. This will become another trailer queen. It was a fun project. 1 more to go =1057 then I am done doing restoring. Pain in the A>>. EXCUSE SHADING OF RED IT IS SUNNY OUT OR THE CAMERA.
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12 pointsGot all the horses out to clean the barn, Well all but one that was dead [520H] no fire. But here are the rest.
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11 pointsDoes anyone know the reasoning behind the black hoods like my C-161 shown below? I like it because it was my dad's and looks a bit sinister but from the hood to the headlight bezel to the twin Briggs, I just wonder why they built it. It's been a great machine. Dad bought it when it was a couple years old from a neighbor and it has had nothing done to it but regular maintenance, a little touch up to the paint, and a fresh set of decals. Even the tires are still in good shape with only a few cracks.
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9 points
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7 pointsA couple of pics of my other addiction along side my main addiction. My 1968 Morris Minor pickup with my ride away senior . The senior is the only one in Europe.
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6 pointsCheck out out this old clip from Indy500, watch closely for some quick moments of Wheel horse involvement in the pits helping out .
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6 pointsI believe that is a 1978. The first of the black hoods and my favorite. The black hoods that year were twins and they also had a 78 C-161 single with a square hood. The dash is the same as the square hoods of the era with a black hood. After that they went to the flat angled dash. You have a beautiful example.
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6 pointsVery nice looking tractor. I like the black hoods second to the round hoods. My favorite is the round hoods with the small fenders. The c 161 is next on my bucket list.
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6 points
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5 points7-8-1776 Liberty Bell tolls to announce Declaration of Independence On this day in 1776, a 2,000-pound copper-and-tin bell now known as the “Liberty Bell” rings out from the tower of the Pennsylvania State House (now Independence Hall) in Philadelphia, summoning citizens to the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence. Four days earlier, the historic document had been adopted by delegates to the Continental Congress, but the bell did not ring to announce the issuing of the document until the Declaration of Independence returned from the printer on July 8. In 1751, to commemorate the 50-year anniversary of Pennsylvania’s original constitution, the Pennsylvania Provincial Assembly ordered the bell to be constructed. After being cracked during a test, and then recast twice, the bell was hung from the State House steeple in June 1753. Rung to call the Pennsylvania Assembly together and to summon people for special announcements and events, it was also rung on important occasions, such as King George III’s 1761 ascension to the British throne and, in 1765, to call the people together to discuss Parliament’s controversial Stamp Act. With the outbreak of the American Revolution in April 1775, the bell was rung to announce the battles of Lexington and Concord. Its most famous tolling, however, was on July 8, 1776, when it summoned Philadelphia citizens for the first reading of the Declaration of Independence. As the British advanced toward Philadelphia in the fall of 1777, the bell was removed from the city and hidden in Allentown to save it from being melted down by the British and used to make cannons. After the British defeat in 1781, the bell was returned to Philadelphia, which served as the nation’s capital from 1790 to 1800. In addition to marking important events, the bell tolled annually to celebrate George Washington’s birthday on February 22 and Independence Day on July 4. The name “Liberty Bell” was first coined in an 1839 poem in an abolitionist pamphlet.
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5 pointsYeah, My neighbor lady can't figure out why I have two Wheel Horse 520H but she has a green and yellow and her husband has a little yellow shaft drive thing...... At least mine both match!!!!! Frankly, I think they're both nuts!
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4 pointsA few weeks ago, I had no Wheel Horses. Now I have 3. And if I can sweet talk the wife, I would like to add a 753. Below is my '88 416-8, '61 401 (sort of), and the most recent one, a '61 551. Also I picked up a K91 for the 401. When I got the 551, I also got a foot rest that says '58. Not sure about that, but I included pictures of it, just in case it can be identified correctly.
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4 pointsSweet line up Elliot....gotta be the envy of the neighborhood unless they all think yer nuts! ..... you do know what you are missing tho ...a couple of round hoods just to "round out" the herd!! Thanks for the
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4 pointsThe 1977 B80 is a great machine. Diesel fuel or kerosene will work well to flush the transmission. First, remove the plug in the bottom of the transmission. It is a 1/4" allen-head plug. The transmission holds 2qts. You will have to lift the front of the tractor to get all the oil out (hump in middle of case). After flushing, refill with a good gear lube. Get a new boot for the shifter to keep water out in the future. I add oil through the shifter hole. It's faster that way. Walmart house brand 80/90 or 85/140 will work fine.
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4 pointsWent to go look at an 876 today, and came home with the tractor, and a complete all original set of bug-eye headlights with the switch and tail light! This is my second pair of bug eyes that I have and I will definitely be keeping this pair also. The tractor and plow will be for sale though! Did I make out good?
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4 pointsI use just plain old black, satin finish, exterior latex paint. I mix it 2 parts water, 1 part paint for general coating. The thicker the mix, the more it fills the cracks. Lots cheaper than the "tire" paint, and according to a friend who used to work for the Goodyear Retread plant here in town, it is essentially the same thing. Latex = rubber. Tires = rubber. No brainer.
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4 points
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4 pointsI've always liked old trucks and tractors. I've had this one for 30 years, I believe I'm the third owner I thought I wanted to collect big tractors, but I decided they take up too much room, and this one isn't even that big!
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4 points
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4 pointsNot my B/R but my buddies . I envy that . Just love finding turn of the century stuff out on the wheelers .
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4 pointsanything old and rusty with an engine really mostly smaller stuff tho, like lawn and garden machinery. this is my latest purchase, originally bought as a parts machine but after finding out parts won't change over it'll stay like it is.
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4 pointsAnything free is good...even if it's not something you really want...it's still better to snag it up rather than let it go for scrap...someday somewhere down the line somebody may want the whole thing or even need some parts off of it...I would jump on a chance for a free tractor like that.
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3 pointsPut my Harbor Freight Generator Head onto my GT 14 using the front Tach-o-matic I installed a few years back (so I can attach the single stage Snow blower from my C81) onto the GT14. Used Heavy Duty 2" inch square trailer hitch tubing which Fits over each other and slides so that I can adjust the b belt (welded nut and bolt) on the bottom of the unit. Use a 3" pulley on the gen set and the outer pulley on the Tractor. Works like a charm easy to take on and off, ran the Tractor at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and it had no problem powering the drop light and heater I plugged-in to check the operation. Ran it for over an hour with no issues, then it started pouring so I quit. Belt is 5/8" X 71" long
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3 pointsThese are the first shots of the 607 off the lift. It has been almost a year. Some of you may not of heard of these they are straight recoil like the 606 and the 605 and so on. Hard to find these 607`s not so much the 606 I have of had one seen many. All is left is put on the sheet metal and the decals. The first pick is what it look like when I first got it. The frame and sheet metal was not painted but engine was because not original but the right engine for this / HH60 . I just cleaned ever thing and buff out sheet metal. Should be a nice example of a RARE 607 when done. I hope you enjoy my progress so far. Will post when done.
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3 pointsI know this subject has been addressed in several other threads, but I wanted to add my experience to all the excellent help I used on this website to help me with my dilemma. I recently took my 14 hp Kohler engine flywheel to a machine shop to have them rebalance it along with the crankshaft, piston assembly, and rod. I got a call from the machine shop to tell me the magnets in the flywheel were loose and they couldn't balance it. When I went in to inspect the "damage", they informed me they hot tanked the flywheel, which to me was a mystery since there was no grease or oil on it to require degreasing. Evidently, the hot tanking loosened the adhesive holding the magnets. So after bringing home the mess, I set out to re-glue the magnets, but I wanted to reinstall them as precisely as I could to keep the original flywheel balance intact. So after doing some measuring with the magnets positioned in the flywheel, I came up with a solution to equally space the magnets precisely around the inside diameter of the flywheel when I re-glue them. I purchased two pieces of brass tubing, one square tubing and one round tubing, both with 7/32" outside dimension. Brass tubing is non-magnetic so the magnets have no affect on their installation or removal. I cut the square tubing into lengths of 2 5/8", and the round tubing into lengths of 1 1/4". I placed the square tubing behind the magnets to hold them out from the inner edge of the machined surface in the flywheel. This will place them in their original position to align them with the alternator stator assembly when the flywheel is installed on the crankshaft. The 7/32" round tubing spacers are used between the individual magnets to position them equally around the flywheel inside diameter. 7/32" diameter will do just that with no gaps in the spacing. The tubing is just finger tight when installed, and easily removable. After thorough cleaning, I glued the first magnet with JB Weld Original grey formula, and clamped it with a paper clamp as suggested in the hilarious video seen in another thread on this subject. Then after waiting overnight for the first magnet to set up, I glued the 5 remaining magnets to the flywheel with JB Weld Original grey formula, spacing them with the pieces of tubing as described earlier The brass spacers made the positioning very easy and precise! I have attached some pics for your inspection. Unclamped magnet is the first one installed I bought a fresh pack for my satisfaction...
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3 pointsOh my neighbors don't think I am nuts, they know that I am past nuts. But They are never to afraid to ask for a winter plow job, or when they get their Zero turns stuck to ask for help, but that's what us W/H nuts do.
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3 pointsI agree with you -- I wasn't a big fan but now I really like them. cschannuth - You have a really nice tractor there. Looks nice and mean! Keeping the memories alive!
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3 pointsThanks. It is a '78 and dad took very good care of it. The only down side is dad touched up a few areas of the paint with a rattle can over the years. Unfortunately (or fortunately since it's still in good shape), he was more concerned with protecting the metal than he was about a nice paint job. So the paint's a little blotchy but he did it so I'm going to leave it that way. It's not perfect but from 20' with the new decals it's hard to tell.
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3 pointsThanks Guys. It was fun to do. But doing this is labor intensive and time consuming. Every nut and bolt brushed and clear coated. The engine came out of a Junker Commando 6 I got lucky it does not smoke or knock. It has all O.E.M parts on it. I had it done buy a guy that does vintage cars it was hard for him to do this when you have Mustangs and Corvettes and Chargers coming in all the time But I made him do it. I will keep you in mind in lets say 10 to 15 years when I am done with this great hobby.
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3 pointsI use kerosene, 3 quarts, running for 10 minutes on stands. drain it out while all the dirt is suspended. I have had to run through twice. don't be surprised if you find a seal or two leaking. I raise the front wheels 18inchs or so to get a good drain. I've done this twice with no issues.
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3 points
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3 pointsThat's a nice example of a Block Hood Wheel Horse! Any more pics you can share with us???
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3 pointsMac......i have an 8 speed.. After the operating table is cleared off......pics and wrenches will begin......film as it unfolds...!!!!!
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsYou guys are a real help....,,,your right Richard and Bert..........build one..................Squonks take is.....short frame,,,8 speed,,,and anything over 10 h.p. Racin Bob....this was class for me tonight,,,,,thanks-you ,,,We all know you have Racin Bobs,,,,,Wild West Coral Snake Wrangling Show...Be careful,,,,,, Call of the wild can hurt !!!! Well,,,,all good decisions.....now to make one..... results coming tomorrow...................!!!!!!
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3 points1067 or 1267 Was the 1055 a short frame? These look short? Pop a 6 speed in one and you're set.
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3 pointsOutstanding job! If you decide to tie it into your home system make sure you install a transfer means. Just tying it in and turning off the main is illegal, dangerous and irresponsible.
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3 pointsNot really old iron for me, I'm afraid I'm one of those who like to chop motorcycles.
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2 pointsWith that tractor you do need to push the clutch pedal to disengage the transmission when in gear and then push the brake pedal to slow or stop the tractor. Pushing the brake only will not stop the tractor because the transmission is still engaged. (Kind of like driving a manual trans car). You say the pedal is forward but the parking brake works. The same brake band is used for both so if your parking brake is working, the brake must be working too. So it may just need some cleaning and adjustment. The brake band is located on the left side of the transmission in front of the axle. Remove the left rear tire and you can easily access it. You will see how to adjust it with a 9/16 wrench or socket. If it is covered with oil, the seal is leaking and should be replaced. If that's the case, the band should be cleaned. I just soak them in gasoline overnight to breakdown the oil.
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2 pointsWe have a GILSON and they made the Montgomery Wards and early FORDS and a bunch of other tractors that were sold in Canada under other names that slips my mind. Please post photos. One of the interesting things about Gilson is that they were a brand name in and of themselves, but they also did a tremendous amount of private brand work. The features of the private brands typically lagged the Gilson machines by a year or so, giving the Gilson dealers some advantage. Some of the brands built by Gilson included; LAWN-BOY, Montgomery Ward / Garden Mark, Plymouth (after their home town of Plymouth Wisconsin), Senator, WIZARD sold by Western Auto stores, Mor.power and Mastercraft both sold by Canadian Tire Corporation, BEAVER sold by Beaver Lumber of Canada, TECO sold by Eaton's Department Stores (Thomas Eaton Company) of Canada, BRENTWOOD , MARSHALL-WELLS , ARTISAN, FORD, TOYOTA. and New Holland. See them all here. I am still looking to pick add PLYMOUTH, Mor.power, ARTISAN, BRENTWOOD, MARSHALL-WELLS and NEW HOLLAND machines. I can't help but believe that there are other Gilson built brands that I've yet to identify, if you have such a machine be sure to Report a Gilson Sighting. Gilson snowblowers are commonly found in the United States, Canada and the Scandinavian countries. Many Gilson snowblowers are assuming the role of family heirloom as I frequently hear from third generation users seeking to keep machines from parents or grand parents in operation. I still have my dad's Gilson in service. In 1988 Gilson was acquired by LAWN-BOY. In 1989 LAWN-BOY was acquired by TORO. Currently LawnBoy is handling the GILSON parts and archives. The LawnBoy dealer network is your source for OEM parts. See my FAQ for more info on locating parts. This site is dedicated to providing the resources needed to keep these machines working. You will find resources pertaining to parts and service procedues along with historical information. My wife's GILSON...almost done!
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2 points
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2 pointsIf you are putting a 8 speed on a short frame you will have to re-fab the brake rod assembly. The 8 speed's brake drum is located in a different spot than the 6 speeds. I have a 6 speed from a 867 that I am using. steveasaurus, Racinbob and racinfool40 have been a great help in the rebuilding of the 6 speed limited slip. It's just a little different beast than the 8 speed. Once you get that 8 speed hooked up you will have one heck of a tractor.
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2 points
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2 pointsThanks Richard.... Brings back a lot of memories of my 50 years with Allis Chalmers and Voith Hydro. Hoover is one of several hundred large hydro plants I have done R & D lab testing for replacement runners and upgrades. And the Grand Coulee turbines....nearly 1,000,000 HP each.
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2 pointsNAPA Ru-GLYDE will soften and condition the rubber. wet the surface, put it in a plastic bag for a day or two; works good.
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2 pointsWhat year shopsmith ? Mine was made sometime in between 1977 and 1984, I remember that it was delivered to the loading dock of the company I worked for. Did not have to take time off to accept delivery. I have never used the the lathe.
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2 pointsNot so sure these are technically Old Iron but I collect old 2 stroke gas powered tools. Homelite & O&R tools Here's a link to my Homelite XL tool collection ,(circular saw, drill, military blower, ect. Check out the video of the tree harvester) http://myoldmachine.com/topic/429-homelite-xl-tool-collection/ And a link to the Ohlsson & Rice (O&R) section with lots of pics of different tools. Way too many to list! Think I have around 40 or more of those tools plus various engines. http://myoldmachine.com/forum/74-ohlsson-and-rice/ If anyone hasn't checked out our sister site My Old Machine, now's a good time. Lots of cool stuff to check out over there! http://myoldmachine.com/
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2 points
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2 pointsThis one of my projects a few years ago. I love the old step sides, this one when I bought it had been a special order for a chemical plant in Iowa. Then it sat for about 14 yrs. and rusted every where they rust, it was a 6 cyl. with a 4 speed, 14 bolt rear with 5 bolt hubs and 456 gears, and it had 16 5 bolt wheels that I sold and put chevy 10 in. ralleys on. The interior was also redone with an S10 interior. Hope you enjoy the pics. I am looking for another one to redo. I want a 4X4 this time. Sorry for the pics, I will get then right yet.