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So I had a single bottom plow given to me and when I used it my front end was a little on the light side so I had a friend fab me up a bracket and suitcase weights he has a ton of pulling tractors so the weights are something he came up with but I thought I would share even though you guys have probably already seen it

SEEMS LIKE MOST OF THE 300-400 AND 500 TRACTORS THE HOOD HINGES ARE SHOT. THEY CAME WITH NYLON SLEEVE BUSHINGS THAT WORE OUT OT MISSING WITHIN 300 HOURS. THIS IS HOW BEEN REPAIRING THEM FOR NOW. THIS IS THE 1992 310-8 I BOUGHT JUST A FIVE DAYS AGO. THE STEEL BRACKETS WERE EGGED OUT AND MY STEEL ROD WAS GROOVED BAD. I JUST USED A PIECE OF 3/8" OD STEEL DOWEL ROD AND SOME 3/8" ID STEEL BUSHING AND WELDED THEM IN PLACE, THEN I COTTER PIN THE ROD. HERE SOME PICTURES. BOWTIE IN OHIO

So I was in the shop today off and on between posts on here and eating dinner. I spent the better part of an hour trying to figure out how to mount the darn coil. I knew it filled a hole somewhere and I lined up the wires leading to it but I could not find that hole to save my soul. Then it dawned on me that the hole is in the front engine shroud. Picked it up and sure enough there it was. Another lesson learned. Here's an update on what I have done so far. Put another coat of black on the engine shrouds. Painted the black on the hood. Put the decals on the hood. It's a good thing those decals are a bit forgiving. I had a tough time lining them up and took a couple of them on and off several times until I got it where I thought it should go. I like the way they look. Terry should be very proud of his craftsmanship. He does a great job on them and a big service to all Wheel Horse aficionados.

Just picked this up sunday afternoon, guy said it was froze up... he was right but nother alittle pb blaster didnt fix.! should fit nicely behind the new c-160.

Set up day... looks like an interesting weekend.... lotsa cool iron. A couple makin steam The Iron Horse The ultimate party trailer Big Wheelie Toys A pair of red twins Local truck A cold front is forecast for Friday, so I loaded a couple of snow machines..just to be safe.

Removing wheel Hubs A friend of mine stopped by and asked how is the best way to remove wheel hubs that are stuck on the axles. In the past I had built a wheel hub puller we decided to try. But the transaxle had 1-1/8 inch axles and the puller was to light duty to remove the hubs. So it got me to thinking. How to build a heavy duty wheel hub puller with what I had lying around. I had and old 10 pound barbell weight and a short piece of 1 inch althread rod with a couple of 1 inch nuts. I drilled 1/2 inch holes in the barbell weight to match the holes on the hub. I then threaded a 1 inch nut onto the 1 inch althread rod and welded it to the end of the rod. I then inserted the rod through the barbell weight and put a 1 inch washer in place and screwed a 1 inch nut on the end of the rod. Using 3/8 inch bolts to connect the barbell weight to the hub and snugging it up to hold it in place. Using a wrench to fit both nuts and now it was time to see if this would work. The first hub we tried a little heat. The hub came off with no problems. The second hub we pulled with using no heat and the same results. Hub came right off. I need to say before we tried this heavy duty puller the hubs were sprayed with PB-Blaster all week and the light duty puller wpuld not get the job done. The threads stripped right out of the nut and plate. but this heavy duty hubs worked great with no problems at all. I guess bushings could be made to reduce the size hole in the barbell weight to accommodate smaller althread rods for smaller axles. I will try and attach PDF files to this message for both pullers. Figure maybe someone could build their own. I will try to attach some files for the light duty puller as well for the heavy duty puller Joe Wheel Hub Puller Heavy Duty.pdf Wheel Hub Puller.pdf

I'll be bringing the sunshine.

You can buy the Wheel Horse logo decals for the Craftsmen black plastic 12 inch wheel weights from Vinylguy (Vendor on Red Square) that are round and fit right in the center of the Craftsmen weights.

I've got an '83 C-175 here... hands down, one of my favorite workers.

Finally !! Barn started to go up today.....

I'd start that shredder up at 1st. light Saturday morning...the games are on at noon.

Thanks guys. Last week when I thought it could be the ignition switch I bought one off Ebay. I put it on today and it starts right up!! Thanks again!!

I just reserved a room for fri nite, will see you sat am

Nick, if you want to run ags on your 416 with standard 12 x 7 rims and you are using one of the cheaper brands like deestone or duro, i would recommend you go with the 23 x 10.50-12. the carlisle tires are going to be your only choice if you want closest to the correct size, but even they are under what is on the sidewall..... i read somewhere that of the cheaper ones, the deestones are slightly larger than the duro tires, but the height on any of them won't be 23 high, they are all undersized. i used duro 23 x 10.50-12 on my boys 875 and they look great. also used the deestone 4.00-8 tri rib on the fronts, but they used narrow rims on the early tractors and your 416 would have the wider 5.38" wheels. because the duro are undersized on the width as well they look just right in my opinion on the 7 inch rims.....

I noticed that, in the last of 3 pdf pics, you have the trans split in half trying to get the hubs off. With a couple of long box-end wrenchs, you could have reached into the trans and remove the 4 (or 5) differential bolts which would let the trans completely separate. At this point, just remove the axle circlip(s), then pull the axles out with hubs still on them. For those with access to a hydraulic press, this is sometimes an easier way to pull the hubs. What you've done would work equally as well. I have made the same type of puller using a HD worn-out 1 1/8" ID Wheelhorse 5-lug hub instead of the 10lb barbell weight. It, of course, is already drilled to the pattern of the offending hub so I didn't have to drill anything.

GREAT,did i say that it plowed GREAT. last year my 90 520-H with Carlisle 23x10.50x12 on plowed as good as my 416-H with Carlisle 23x8.50x12 with chains on basically the same tractor but a lot of difference in the way they plow eric j

Well... it's commonly used to refer to the mid-engine 1960 and 1961 models, the 400/550 and 401/551. Beyond that in a much more complicated fashion though... Wheel Horse used the term/name Suburban for several years. Just the term "Suburban" refers to the fact that this was a tractor for the "Suburban households" that were gaining in popularity in that mid-50s era. Expansion of housing into Suburban developments where people wanted their small patch of land with a lawn and a garden. Many people were losing interest in living in the "urban" city. In advertising, Wheel Horse started referring to the RJ-58/59 as a Suburban tractor sometime during production. Then, in the 1960 brochure, they named the tractors the Suburban 400 and Suburban 550 as shown in the brochure and on the manual. In 1961, the manual cover removed the "Suburban" title, but the advertising literature still referred to them as Suburban tractors. This is generally where collectors quit calling tractors suburbans... although interestingly if you look at the cover of the 1962 manual, they were still called Suburban Tractors! They were still referred to as a "Suburban Tractor" in ads as well, but I think this was going back to the original reference to Suburbia itself. Even as late as the 1963 brochure they used the term, but I think clearly this was used as a general term. After that though, I don't recall seeing the term used.

I mowed with the new 520H with the 60" deck last weekend and decided it was all I needed. I posted the only non red tractor I had on CL yesterday afternoon and it sold immediately. Now they are all red as it should be! Bye bye Cub.

Picked up a real nice 522Xi. These models are really starting to grow on me Thad (Ohio)

Hi all. Picking up this horse this weekend. Owner is not a horse guy and has little knowledge of the tractor. Wish he was giving it away though! From the pic could you guess the year?

So I am at work and my wife is blowing up my cell phone with calls and text messages.... Course I can't answer becasue I am in a meeting with a client. I finally have a minute to call her. She asks me, "did you see my text?" I said " I have been in a meeting, what do you need?" She replies " do you think we have enough branches now for the mulch we need?" I finally look at he photos... What in the H#(( happened to the fornt yard.... Well, you did not call me back so I just told them to keep piling the brances up!!!!!!!!! The pile is 7' high, 10' wide and 30' long. It does tapper off slightly in the last photo, but still! Judge for yourselfves... I had to take 3 photos in order to show the entire massive cluster of brances I have to chip/shred on Saturday........ Rob

just for the heck of it here it is in full "lawn clothes"

My intention wasn’t to just let this thread die, but updating this has taken a back seat to actually working/playing with the tractors. I’ll try to get this caught up with my progress. For replacing the 1533 bearings, I thankfully had resisted scrapping the rear end out of a Commando 8 with broken-out axle keyways. The bearings weren’t pristine by any means, but definitely usable. They came out without too much trouble. I soaked them good with penetrating oil and then used a combination of a slide hammer and mechanic's pry bar to get them out. After leaving the bearings in the freezer for a couple days, they went in without too much difficulty. In fact, pretty much all the putting it back together went smoothly. A few things to note: Got the 5999 gasket from the local Toro dealer for $9.00. Probably could have made it myself, but it's nice to support the local dealer, and keep some demand for these old WH parts. I ordered several of the 11124 Chicago Rawhide seals and one of the 6449 seals from my Toro dealer. CR seals were $6.50 from Amazon, the Toro one was $9.50. As noted by others, I think they will both work OK, but the Toro one is wider and fills the full recess in the end of the axle housing, whereas the CR one only goes half the depth. After assembly I filled it with 10W30 and replaced the filter with a NAPA 1410. After getting it all back together… Drumroll please... It worked! Well, mostly anyway. It did make a couple strange noises. The first one took me a few minutes to figure out. It was the PTO pulley floating on the PTO shaft and sliding in and out of contact with the friction material. Took it off for the time being and that noise is gone. The second noise only occurred under load and was a rattling sound that seemed to be coming from the belt guard near the tensioner pulley. After seeing me putting around the yard on my test drives, the boys begged me to let them drive it, so I let them get a little seat time idling around the yard. The lady I got it from had the seat mounted way forward, so it's a little tight for me but perfect for them. They had a great time, and it was a great way to circulating the transmission oil, to get it ready for another fluid and filter change to hopefully get out any residual contamination.

The ones I pictured above are actually trailer wire clips for 1/8" steel. I use them around here for lots of tractor and trailer applications. If the metal is thinner I bend the tooth end in a little. I suggested them cause they are $3.55 for 25 (14 cents each) and you can afford to go crazy with them.

im back again i got that B.S. fuel pump made up the plate same as what the gasket looks like.drilled an tapped the hole in center of plate.put in the pipe fitting with a nipple on the end .hooked it all up primed it an she started right up.go back out again in a few to see if it starts up again.an then put the whole thing back together.keep your fingers crossed.

Yes they will, the just look much cooler.

That's a nice looking 551! I have a 551 but it was mutilated by the PPO (previous previous owner). It will have to be a restoration/modification.

Ya. I've tried mixing and matching. But I'll take another look. Wish I had the origanal. It had a primer lever on it.

Are you talking about the flag and piece it slips into??

I Got a room for Friday also.Loading up the trailer tonight. Hope all three fit as Scott said he wanted to get 200 machines Smitty

I sent this to Nick already but for those of you who want to see a Carlisle 23-850-12 on a 414 rim here it is, I just put these on dads old tractor. The Carlisle is truer to spec.

Nick, like i said earlier, the sizing depends on the brand of tire, they are all different. the 520 mostly had 12 x 8.5 rims and 23 x 10.50-12 tires, (but the older tires are more true to the correct size). when you say on a 400 series, i assume you are talking about 7 inch rims, the 10.50s in the older tires will go on there, but they look bulged out compared to the newer cheaper tires. my 418 i just finished have 23 x 10.50-12 carlisle all trail on 12 x 8.5 rims, they are a lot closer to the true size than the duro or deestone tire. with ags, you really need to do a lot of digging on sizes to get the info. many members on here have been disappointed with the lack of true size on some of the brands...... agree with you on everything except the narrow rim was a 7 and not 7.5.

Good title, and good write up, someone doing a search on pullers should hit this quickly. So -- since I had just completed another variation on a puller I thought this would be a good place to show it. As with mrfixit, and a lot of us, I just scrounged around in the shop and came up with the materials -- a slab of 3/8" steel plate about 5 1/2" square (4 1/2" bolt circle on hub) five 7/16-20 bolts, a little to long but its what I had, and a 3/4-16 bolt. Set up the mill and drilled the 5 holes to match the hub and drilled and tapped the 3/4-16 threads. mounted ti up taking care to maintain equi-distance on the 7/16 bolts to prevent 'cocking' and hit it with my 1/2" impact wrench. The 2 hubs would no doubt been ones that would have defied any lesser means of pullers - 3 jaw, etc they were TIGHT!! Even when they started moving, they fought till the last 1/2" or so. The bolts were common hardware items and probably wont last but another couple pulls, ideally Grade 8 would be used

thank you Geno. Kent built this one with help from Dad. well to be honest, it took more than just help and also a little 'encouragement'....... he quickly realized i wasn't going to build it myself, he also realized the tractor wouldnt build itself!!!!

Thank you Martin, I just purchased the same coil from gorilla moters 3 ohm and should be in by the 8th. I will update after I install it . Thank you for your time and information Jesse

This may sound odd but I look at the end of the axle in the hub and measure it...... Sent from where I am.......

Might be a change of plans. I may be there after all Saturday morning until lunch time.

You wanted the shredder... she's helping.

got to be my V blade. link to the build

Might have to resort to fabricating the hitch " pipe" from a bit of pipe to try and make it look original. The welder has seen a lot of use recently fabricated a new deck shell from 3 mm steel:) If anyone knows of the castings or a whole trans please let me know.May be willing to pay shipping from USA? Thanks Thomas

Sure, they will fit fine, any combination you mentioned.

Clear POR -15 was used (two coats and one spray paint rustoleum overcoat) on two of my deck restore projects several years ago. They are both still operating and no rust or undersurface holes!

Finally the long road to restore my C-141 to its former glory is complete. She looks good and runs great.

That's one of the best original suburbans that I have ever seen, don't restore it

My 1993 314 with 42 inch five sector snowplow and my 1967 Lawn Ranger with the STR-324 snowthrower are going to be the main team this year. I have rubber tire chains for the 314 which I will put on when it snows! I have used Sno-Jet every season on my snowthrower also! Stuff works great!

My work cart hauling my paint turbine when I stained the fence being pulled by Marvin before his "Makeover" Show cart behind the 704

It might have been a special tractor but when you get down to it had nothing special on it Mechanically. Maybe the engine was a one timer. Other than that it was all cosmetic. I have a NOS GT 14 that was given to my Granddad when he was a dealer. He was in some kind of a dealer contest sponsored by Wheel Horse. He was awarded a special plak given to him from C. Pond himself and one of the new GT 14's. He never started it. Before it was crated up he had his Pic taken on it at the factory. They crated it up and sent it to him. We still have it, never been started. I could never sell it, but if I did I could not ask that kind of money for it. Heck the tires are dry rotted and belts dry rot to. Actually time just sitting has not been kind to it. Would not surpise me if all the seals in it are rotten to. Myself I just don't see what's so special about that tractor to warrant that kind of money.

You're doing a heck of a job Kent, It was good to talk to you at the show saturday.... Looks like your tractor shines a little more than the ones your dad has . Keep up the good work.

I used the 400x8 deestone tri ribs in mine, bought them for $40 a pair plus $15 shipping from tucker tire on ebay, and I love them.