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This is the one from yesterday morning. This one runs and mows really nice so it may become the regular mower so I can sell the only one non- that I mow with now. The cleaning has begun, will put more pics up after Wonder Woman does her cleaning today, She cleaned 2 of the hubcaps this morning below.

A few weeks ago I come across a sickle bar mower that happened to be for a 1054.....a frame that is 1 1/4 inch wider than the regular frame.....I wanted to mount it on my Charger mutt so....... I bought a 3 1/2" pulley at TSC for the drive......shimmed the right side of the belly mount 1/2 inch on the right side and 3/4 on the left...I really wanted the pivot shaft as far under the tractor as possible and the pulleys to line up on the drive side.....some pictures......enjoy!!! Front drive unit....... Rear pivot.....this part was missing so I had to fab one up.....this is why I had to get under the tractor as far as possible....otherwise the frame supports would have been too close for the pivot hole..... Any guesses what I used for the rear pivot mount????? Nice scratch on the belt guard from my idiocracy.....knuckles and paint always get scraped up when I get too rammy.... One thing I added was a lift linkage.....this sucker is HEAVY.....for now this bent PTO rod is working...... Add I couldn't have got it completed without my bestest friend.......

put a trailer hitch in the front, gets a lot easier, espacialy with the 4wheeled carts Koen

Many of you know of Geno and his massive collecting effort, but few of you are as affected as those of us that live within a few hundred miles of him! (I have much respect for Geno, but I have to rib him a little! ) Despite that fact, I was able to wrangle me a horse today (it helps that it was closer to me). Real nice fellow that used to use it to cut his yard but hasn't needed it in a couple years. Its not the prettiest but it is solid. 1991 520H, 683 hours.

Did we happen to get any pics of this ^ . As a semi driver of 22 years , I will offer this tidbit : The longer the rig is , the more forgiving it is . After driving my 48 footer with a single screw day cab all day , it's quite the episode to watch me try to back my little snowmobile trailer into the driveway with the Silverado .

I got the motor switch out today to a HH-60 that had setting on the shelf for about a year and it fired right up and runs great needless to say I'm super excited here are a few pics I still need to get it all wired up and need to paint the wheels

Just a two wheel cart? Practice. Four Wheeled Wagon? LOTS of Practice.

Hope he has a panoramic lense. That would be a big picture

if you have 1 1/8 axles........ the B-1816 is the 1 1/8 axle bearing. 1816 = 18/16 of an inch. (18/16 = 1 2/16 = 1 1/8) B is open bearing. this is how i remember which is which. i read this on a torrington reference somewhere.... other examples would be... B-108 (108 10/16 and 8/16......... 5/8 x 1/2) etc... M is a closed bearing, B is open. M-12121 ( 12 12 1.......12/16 x 12/16 x 1......... 3/4 x 3/4 x 1 ......M -closed).

Well thanks to you guys my 312-8 has been doing great all summer! Next month I will be prepping the blower for use this winter and wanted to know if you had any tire suggestions. I will be getting new front tires (suggestions on where to buy is appreciated) but currently everything is a standard turf tire. Will these be ok for winter? Most of the time I will be moving 6" or less with a slight slop down the driveway. Also I've seen some suggest filling the tires with washer solvent..... First time using a PTO blower so all suggestions accepted!!! I also need a good source for the cable that controls the chute. Thanks in advance!

You may resume your hoarding good sir . Actually, all in all, that bum CL seller saved me over two hours of driving and plenty of gas! (Found this one less than 30 minutes away). It needs plenty of PB blaster and grease to get her back in running form again. The motion control lever was frozen in place and the parking brake too. I am torn because I love the 520 (and that onan sounds amazing) but I dont like how much gas it uses. I will never be turning a 60" deck or 2 stage snow blower, so I know I dont need that much horsepower. I DID want the gear reduction steering and the swept axle to improve turning radius... So we shall see. I love all the gauges.

Martin It was because of watching you redo that tractor that I decided to get the foot pedal from Matt. Your description of how much fun it was to drive was the clincher for me. I am glad you chimed in here as I keyed on the link and got another look at your installation. After looking at your application I see that I need to go back and make a small modification to what I did. I can't believe I was that stupid I left out the auto center lever and the parts that go with it. When making the installation I did not actually read all documentation. If I had I would have realized by what it was called it was needed. As it was, I had everything working the way I thought it should and left it out. It looked like it wasn't needed. This entire project has been a learning experience for me and the next tractor I refurbish will be a piece of cake because of the experience of doing this one.

I called the machine shop today. They don't do a lot of Onans but do a lot of Kohler work. They said they would look at it and they usually machine the block a little larger and put a larger seat in for around 50.00. Gonna run it down to them in the next day or two.

The grease fills the void on the inside of the hub between the bearings. This allows a little grease to protect the bearings, but more importantly, it keeps the hubs from filling with water when running through puddles or when plowing snow, etc.

Bet you had to drag the ol' ... kickin' a screamin' onto that "off brand" green trailer.

Try that with a Z turn. Yep all they are good for is mowing. We have a riders rodeo every year Should have seen this lady playing Frisbee golf on a Z !! Can't stop gotta keep moving.

How 'bout a discussion on whirled peas instead?

Don't write that off as a smart- ass reply.... it's just the truth. With the short wheelbase we're working with... there's just nothing else. Practice.

Love that big 60" deck...Probably the best cutting deck Wheel Horse ever had..I love mine on my 18 Automatic!

Geno (Magoo) you've done it again! Nice score. Now you need to get them all together and take a family picture.

As we all well know second place is for the birds! I am really not hoping to finish there or who knows I could end up in the basement serving donuts and ensure or something crazy like that, anyways I am not going there. I am going with the home teams this week other than one. I'll bet you'll never guess which one??? Give up??? I'll take the Iowa Hawkeyes over Purdue at home. So just for my "Special" Dino we are going with Penn State, Iowa, Rutgers, Wisconsin, Michigan State, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio State, Nebraska I just luv it when a plan comes together. Once again boys in girls it time for As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!!

Definitly the bevel gear differential...If I was you Craig I would also pull it apart and check the internal gears...This is the same differential in the 953-1054 trans and are know to be weak....but the 953-1054 ia alot heavier machine than the commando..The gears are known to crack and the plates inside that float with the pin that hold the other set of gears are known to crack and break....I have replaced a few of them...also have swapped in the 8-pinion differential in them too....This goes to show that just what the books say isn't always right..I have learned something new by this Thread..And it is good to know..Thanks for the great pics!!!!

So I went home and (much to the misses' dismay) went outside to play with the engine. I drained off the old oil and put a quart of ATF in and 8 oz of MMO. The level on the dipstick was perfect. I attached the battery and cranked her over (she took a little work to get over, but got going) and no smoke! Ran like a charm. She was a little loud since the muffler was rotten and the guts fell out. I have to grab a new muffler, and I think this one will do the job: Muffler for Wheel Horse... It has a 1" female pipe thread, which is what I need and looks like a clean version of the one I have on there now. I took a short video of the engine running: IMG_0848.MOV And a Picture of her: I am going to crank her over again with the current ATF/MMO mixture and let her run again for 15-20 minutes tonight and then will drain her off. I will add the lightweight (10W40)/MMO mix for the next time I idle her.

Picked up some wheel horse brochures! What do you guys think?

Picked this up today to fill a gap in horsepower. It is a 1981 5240. This is the lightest and fairly rare of the post-Studebaker Gravely tractors which didn't sell well due to the slope hood and pull start. It has an 8hp Kohler K181T and the desirable eight-speed transmission. There are some issues with the engine so it may be a candidate for a re-power. The Gravely is easy to do using an adapter plate. Most engines today have a common bolt pattern so it is just an issue of the correct shaft input gears and adapter. Even a clone diesel would fit. A gel cell or small AGM battery could be mounted to the hood to take advantage of the larger OHV singles' starter motor.

Over the years, I have seen several newbies on Red Square ask the question: Where do you find Wheel Horse tractors to buy? The normal answer is CL, Ebay, local trader & classified ads. Once, some responded with, "If you look long enough, they will find you"! Well, I have come to this point in my collecting! This evening a guy calls (I know his wife) and said he had a WH he got from his brother and didn't want it anymore. Lots more to the chit-chat between us, but I asked, "Do you know what model it is"? He said yes, "It is 10 horsepower"! I still don't know anything about it, but will look at it tomorrow!

There's a shop by me that you might want to call Geno ... if you want the number, let me know

If you are going to leave this unattended I would disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it. Hate to see something go wrong when you are not with it. Garry

I saw it trying to duck behind the rails, then at one point tried to make a run for it... Alas, she was tied down in front.

Got a chance to go outside today and what a beautiful day it was. I installed the Foot Pedal I got from Matt and after a bit of fitting got everything adjusted the way I think it should work. Of course I won't know until I get it on the floor with an engine in it. Actually was a very easy installation. If it works the way I expect it will, I will probably order three more. Unless I run into something complicated, I hope to have all the innards installed by Thursday. It will soon be ready to sit on the floor.

Maybe my wife is right that I do not pay attention enough. I didn't have my glasses on when I originally read it, lol.

I just found out today that the barn is due to arrive on Thursday and they may start Thursday or Friday so I will only be there on Saturday.... I am all loaded up and ready to go...

You have no idea! It was all they had left at the Sunbelt near my work and it was only 48" wide, which means we had to remove the deck after the first attempt. And it had a VERY dead battery, so we had to drive it up on life support (connected with jumpers to the guy's F150) EDIT: I will be starting a thread with pictures late tonight.

I was always taught to hold the steering wheel at the bottom. While backing, if you want the trailer (cart) to go left, move your hand to the left. If you want it to go right, move your hand to the right.

Yes, but we have a long standing policy not to discuss such on a tractor forum. All it does it lead to politics and that just never leads anywhere fun. There are plenty of other places on the internet to discuss those items.

Awesome awesome awesome. I know what the rear mount is cause you told me.

Bob: I had a similar problem with a 702. I am not a fan of drilling the 1/8" oil holes in the halves near the split - that is just another place for water to collect. I did sacrafice the original pin by cutting it in 2 places between the slot hitch & the transmission - this allowed removal of the hitch. I then drilled a 9/16" hole almost thru what was stuck in the tramsmission. I then used an air chisel with a round tip & it came right out - same for the hitch pieces. I then made up a new hitch pin out of 3/4" cold rolled steel in the lathe, a little shorter than the original. I then added short undercuts the outside diameter by .010 inch in 3 places - the center and the 2 spots where the hitch rides. Then both ends were drilled deep & tapped 1/4-28 for grease fittings. The last step was to add 1/8" holes in the middle of the undercuts to intersect the grease holes. No problems after 2 years of use. Bill

Sounds good!!

did just that I put my meter on the bat neg post and check the voltage to the positive side of the coil . With the machine running I had aprox 13 plus volts on the neg side of the coil I also had voltage aprox 11 volts ? I found a balk wire going to that white terminal connector and it had a spot under the motor that had part of the insulation worn off from rubbing on something and was intermittently grounding out ? When I repaired it the machine started to run normal ? I could engage the PTO and the motor keeps running now ( Great) progress. My volt gauge still reads all the way barred on the high side but when I put my meter on the studs where the wires are hooked up to it I'm getting almost 14 Volts , which I think would be normal changing? Maybe my gauge is no good? I also cant get my lights to come on? The switch on the dash checks out OK But no power to the lights where they hook up ? No back lights either? But at least the tractor seems to be running OK. Thank you for your time

Yep, it should shoot out several feet.

So, the new batch of SKF-11050 1-1/8" axle seals came today... decided to dig the other seal(driven deeper)out of there before attempting to put a new one in. I guess we should have explored that number off of it, that you were asking about Steve... because once if punched a hole into it, a small piece of metal was laying in there...didn't want that to falling back into the trans... took a small pick and a screw driver to carefully lift it out...sure enough, that little piece of metal lying in there had nothing to do with a seal at all... it was actually just the end of an alxe needle bearing instead. Decided...well, I've got nothing to lose at this point, so I cracked open the case so the trans guru's can have a peek at the guts in it... then discovered in my haste, I should've let it drain a bit longer before I did. So here is where it sits tonight. Guess I'm going to need a # for the needle bearing I have to replace now... and some assistance from the forum to help me get it back together in one piece.

Another beautiful job!! How much for the MG?? Make you a deal . . . I'll send you some sunshine and you send me the car

after tilling was done i put new seat on tractor and now working on a weight box for the front quick hitch. was popping wheelies in the garden.

update for monday...the c 160 runs good but needs some govoner work nothing major ...i dont think? so i moved the tiller over to the 414-8 fit was perfect and in the box of goodies that came w the 160 there was a brand new belt for the tiller! the tiller works great and garden is ready for garlic and wenter crops.

When I first started this process I was unable to get the demystification guide. That is when I started replacing parts as I had no guide. Once I got the demystification guide it was much easier to trouble shoot(side note, every one should have the demystification guide!). The coil was bad, the plugs and wires were in need of replacement. The BIG $$$$$ item(ignition trigger/module) is in box original is on tractor. Had her out today and ran for about 2 hrs, it quit once near the end. Sounded as if it lost spark. Waited about 1 minute as I looked it over. Restarted without a problem and continued to run until I put it away. I think it is now fixed and yes I should have listened to the advice here on the forums before replacing parts willy nilly. My Father always believed in the KISS philosophy, Keep It Simple, Stupid(if a light does not work make sure it is plugged in first). I did not follow this when I started my repairs. I now know quite a bit about this tractor so as you said Martin, it was not all in waste. As a word of advice to any who read this thread who are having spark issues........ Get the demystification guide and CHECK ALL THOSE CONNECTIONS!!!! And support these forums by becoming a member. Much gratitude to all those who offered advice! Dave

Hi All, Just wanted to send a couple photos of the 520-8 tilling the Garden today. Tractor and tiller did a great job, for the exception of the hitch retainer opening and allowing the tiller to come out of the bracket. I may drill and pin it to keep it closed. Well here's the pics. Take care Mike

Good advise guys.

work horse's ran briggs, not onans. i'll take all of the onans i can afford. eric j

Go for RAL 3003! You'll like it. :thumbs2: