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On Friday, I decided to move the B-100 (worker) from it's summer home (behind the shed) to it's winter home (beside the garage). First thing that I found was a dead battery. Okay, this battery had a date of May 2006, so I wasn't too upset when I had to get a new one. But in checking voltages, my meter said that the charging system was putting out 17.5 volts DC. Hmm... We all know from past electrical discussions that a poor ground on the regulator/rectifier can cause over voltage, so I removed the leads and checked the stator voltage. Good 40 volts AC. Then I cleaned the R/R mounts, made sure that I had a good ground. Tried checking voltages again, and still had the same 17.5 VDC. So, good AC voltage from stator, too high a DC voltage from the regulator/rectifier. Conclusion? Bad regulator/rectifier. So I go rummaging through my collection of R/R's to find one that didn't have too many spider nests in it, cleaned it up, installed it, and...still 17.5 volts. Now I am scratching my head. So let's go back to the beginning. Stator voltage - 38 to 44 volts AC depending on RPM - check. Good grounds around - check. Bad regulator/rectifier - maybe Pulled out another R/R and still the same 17.5 VDC. Okay, this calls for some serious thinking. So I sit down with hot cup of coffee and it comes to me. Check your meter. Took my meter over to a known good battery and it read 16.5. Conclusion? BAD METER in the DC mode. Pulled out my back-up meter and VOILÀ, 12.5 VDC not running, and 13.8 charging. Moral of this story...don't jump to conclusions when it comes to electrical issues.

You're right Mike, I only had 1 as of 3 months ago. Actually I started this looking for 2 others, one for a snow blower and one for a blade to do the lot and drive at the shop. Then I learned about all the attachments and how they could be very useful to me, or others including my customers who always try to buy mine. The more I learned and saw, some sort of obsession set in, I can't explain it. I really am addicted to I'm sure a lot of it also is that all I have done is work, eat, and sleep most of my life and now I have finally found something that I really enjoy. I also really enjoy my time here on the board as well, whether it be trying to help or just having fun. The great people here make it even better and I can't wait till we get things in order enough to start going to some shows! Then there's also the OCD. I've fixed and sold a few already, also many of these will be restored and sold as soon as the snow hits with a blade or blower. Then next spring with a deck or tiller or whatever someone wants. Won't make a lot of money but it's sure a lot of fun.

If by some chance with my Schedule, and I forget or miss picking games for whatever reason, I am Appointing Dino Executor of my picks, in my absence. I hope he doesn't pick MICHIGAN. Signed THE DUKE Go Hawkeyes

I thought I would post the clean up of the 502 I got at the mid mo meet and greet its been a while sense I've had a thread about what I've been working on. Here's what I have the belt guard says its a 502 but I think its a 552 it has the battery box and the HH55 looks original and it ran but the valves are shot and the seats are very pitted someone reground the valves but did not recut the seats so it would run but wouldn't pull its self when I tried to ride it around the yard I cleaned it up with sos pads and pulled the motor I'm not going to paint it I like the old pinta here's sum pics

Absolutely! Geno didn't know it had been oversold, only the seller did. (Buncha bums on CL sometimes, this is not the first time this has happened to me!). I was about an hour into a two hour drive to go get it and thats when I got the "my wife sold it" text. I just knew it was near Geno somewhere and I figured that he probably gobbled it up seeing his purchase spree lately! Geno's a good guy and is keeping a lookout for me . That tractor (not the one in his pictures, the second one I went after) was quite a deal! And luckily the guys at Sunbelt are standup characters and gave me my money back on the trailer rental without me even asking for it! (The trailer I normally use can't hold a 60" deck)

thats great you finally got it working. onan engine electrical can be tiresome and frustrating to work out whats wrong sometimes...... so, just to make sure here, you went through all this drama and aggravation pulling flywheel and other engine components, bought a new ignition module, removed and replaced various ignition components etc. etc. because of a loose wiring connection? you've probably learned a lot more about your tractors engine and how the ignition system and associated components work so all of this wasn't a waste of time, i just think you could have avoided much of the frustration that you encountered by thoroughly checking out the electrical harness to begin with. its still not clear if you discovered any of the ignition components were to blame for your problems, thats one of the problems when replacing parts with out testing. maybe you could clear that up by testing anything you replaced ( you did the module already by replacing the new with old and it worked). the coil and other ignition components could be tested to see if they were the issue. As you found out, parts can only be reliably tested by fixing or bypassing bad electrical issues on a engine or tractor harness first. (that was the idea behind the jumper wire to the coil, bypassing the bad connection/problem area that hadn't been diagnosed yet) hopefully, the problem is fixed now.

Picked up some wheel horse brochures! What do you guys think?

Thanks Martin. I've been looking into this a little bit and Cabot is what I've been seeing a lot of recommendations for. The other popular option appears to be a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and something to thin it with so it will soak in and dry. Via Tapatalk 4

Don't have to worry about AJ, he's cool.

These things are terribly addictive!

Oh yes, I know.. I'm just picking on Geno.. We have had several phone conversations and e-mails back and forth.. Its all in fun, he knows that! [emoji2] [emoji6] I'm going to edit that post to avoid confusion to the community.[emoji6]

51 Case DC this weekend. Good day with my dad.

No problemo for a car lift for sure. It was 3 trucks and the slab came out really nice. Nice pitch etc. Funny thing is the concrete contractor had his eye on the horses.... wanted to know if I had any for sale. He liked how smooth the 520 with the plow on it ran.

I think you have finally gone off the deep end. The big problem I found with having that many tractors is time! Even if they all ran and operated perfect there just isn't enough time to enjoy all of them. That's why I sold off the majority of mine. Couldn't see owning them if I wasn't gonna use or enjoy them.

Too bad you can't watch Terry Bradshaw pick these games. You could pick the exact opposite of him and at least bat .750!

Jason, its funny you ask because i was looking at the deck this past weekend while loading and unloading for the mid mo meet and greet. i think its held up well for the amount of effort i put in and how weathered it already was before staining it. there are a few areas around knots etc where the harder wood grain didn't let the stain soak as much. the trailer gets used every few weeks or so for hauling either tractors or some construction materials etc. not as much as some people here use them hoarding tractors down south, but it does get used. there are a few areas where the wood is damaged a little and it has lost its color, it probably could do with another coat, that will depend on what time i have before winter. as far as storage goes, i think it spent a week inside last winter, the rest of the time I've had it (15 months now) its spent its time outside. it gets almost full sun in the middle of summer and the brunt of our winters. i think for a horizontal surface (not like a fence where moisture runs off) its done fairly well...... heres some pics that should help for the rest of what you asked......

My first name is Ray , and i have wheelhorses...so after a few days of pondering ,i came up with rayshorses.

The issue was never me buying it out from under anyone Nick, glad you brought that up. He said his wife sold it supposedly not knowing that it was already sold. I just called Brandon and found out what happened. He sold it to both of us last night (and maybe even someone else who knows). I think the guy was thinking like some do when things are on CL, who knows if anyone will even show up. I told him I would be there early this morning cause he was only 20 minutes away and I wanted to get it before the shop opened. If I knew Brandon or anyone else had said they were coming to get it I would have told him like many others, if they don't show up call me. I don't do that to people. One thing I know for sure, his wife didn't sell it to me, he did.

If we are all honest, that handle fits the whole bunch of us !!!

The thing that makes this forum so great is the total experience of the membership and their willingness to stay with a problem until it has been solved. There are very few who claim to be total experts on all problems but up here you will always find someone who is knowledgeable with your particular problem. Factor in the friendliness of the entire group and you can see why no one goes away with an unsolved problem. As for the problems of the Onan, I submit that if folks would only follow the recommended maintenance procedures, such as valve adjustment and de-carbon every 500 hours, and especially cleaning under the engine shrouds so air can flow, these engines would last a lifetime.

Yes even doctors make mistakes. That is why our fees are so high. We need to carry extra insurance called " Medical malpractice". Check to see if you policy has a "dumazz" rider, if not get it added.

Glad you are not near Florida....... hard enough finding them and the parts for them. Although my dad managed to round up quite a few. Ill have to put a camo net over them so you can't see them with Google maps, lol. Glad to see at least someone is getting them and doing something with them. Nice score!.

Well the wrench is turning the right direction now

Hi All, Just wanted to send a couple photos of the 520-8 tilling the Garden today. Tractor and tiller did a great job, for the exception of the hitch retainer opening and allowing the tiller to come out of the bracket. I may drill and pin it to keep it closed. Well here's the pics. Take care Mike

So Geno, I gotta ask?? What's your "Grand plan"? I thought I saw you post awhile back that you had had one WH for many years and just a few months ago decided to collect. So here we are a few months later and you keep haulin em in....at an incredible rate! Are you gearing up a long winter of restoring? Or are you planning on flipping a few? Maybe start a WH parts yard like Kelly has? Or are you just shooting for a massive herd? I'm just curious what, if any, your WH goal is. Mike.......

Since I need to wait for the foot pedal from Matt, I decided to put a few decals on the old girl. I am going to get an Exacto knife tomorrow to make good clean cuts for the holes. I can't do the hood yet as I need to wait for the paint to dry and then paint the black. But I am liking what I see so far. I really like what Terry did on the decal for the gage plate. Top line says Restored by Nick Caprinolo. Nice touch and much appreciated. He does an outstanding job on these decals. I am glad I picked the Patriotic decals for this one.

got a little red on it now. deck was weathered from sitting on the trailer lot for 4 months or so. waxed the powdercoat and stained the lumber on the deck a nice redwood color......just need to load it with tractors and go traveling.....

A little time saver to confirm an Onan ignition module is functional prior to installing it, reassembling the engine and keeping your fingers crossed. The diagram below shows how to wire up a standard tail lamp assembly and a few alligator clips to complete the testing. All the wiring and testing can be accomplished on the bench. One Caution - DO NOT TOUCH THE BLACK MODULE LEAD TO 12 VOLT POWER AT ANY TIME. IF NO LOAD (lamp or ign coil) IS PRESENT IN THIS LEAD THE MODULE WILL BE DESTROYED. The modules I have tested so far power have all powered up with the tail light on. When the trigger ring is rotated near the "nose" of the module, one of the two magnets embedded in the trigger ring will turn off the lamp and continued rotation of the ring will pass the second magnet over the "nose" and once again turn on the lamp. An ignition coil puts about a 3 - 4 amp load on the ignition module. A standard automotive tail light will also put the module under approximately the same load and provide a good simulation of the ignition coil load. This post has been promoted to an article

Hello All, short story--I bought a 1984 Bayliner Cierra 25' boat for the Volvo 290 Duoprop outdrive... anything beyond that was gravy. Boat was abandoned 10 years ago after the owner died... it sat uncovered and the hull is shot. Motor was left uncovered and was covered in leaves, dirt, mouse nests and any other terrible "crap" you could dump on an engine... Well I tried to turn the motor over in the boat and it wouldn't budge... figured it was seized and shot, so I pulled it out to strip it for parts and get the boat cleaned out to be crushed. I started looking at the motor and pulled the alternator off---the first surprise was that the alternator was seized and the belt was rusted in the pulleys. So I then tried turning the motor over and it moved, stiff as heck but it moved. Out came the plugs and nothing but rust.... I filled the cylinders with kerosene and turned it over slowly and let it pour out and carry away the rust and crud. The distributor guts where rusted to heck so I through a Mallory electronic unit in.... I also pressure washed the motor out of enthusiasm. The risers are dated August 1998... and after I split them and checked them out they went back on. I added some fuel and some water and heres how it ran... no stuck valves and the carb didn't even act up! Simply amazing how an engine can sit for ten years and get rained on, peed on, filthy and so on and still be OK... I ran it for about an hour and fogged it out. Its going to end up in a 25' sedan cruiser I'm putting together. The way this motor turned out was a stroke of luck.... I haven't seen any other similar situations turn out this good. Heck--I've seen motors rusted completely solid just over the winter after sitting uncovered never to run again.... s430.photobucket.com/user/andoverct/medi...zps8740f6f5.mp4.html Tony

That is the exact reason I choose to swap the trans from the 105 to the 100. Because the hub had creeped its way towards the trans and after some quick searching on here, I decided it would be better to swap them. I am glad I did because I would have been Assistant Captain Dumbazz!!

What !!! Geno keeps this place on it's toes!!!! It's all in fun guys, all in fun. Thanatos, this is just an attempt at humor so please don't take it wrong.

Gear reduction steering has 2 fittings, one you access from the top between the steering column gear and gear closer to engine. The other one you access from underneath basically right below where you just greased on the small block holding the lower gear. Also do not forget the tie rod ends, spindles, front axle pivot, and wheel bearings. Standard steering models just have the fitting you access from above, the spindles, front axle pivot, and wheel bearings. Cleat

good thing my trailer is enclosed!! ill just have to make sure I lock it up

In 30 + years of repairing stuff I've learned one thing. If something doesn't make sense it's usually something stupid that is wrong. No lying here, When I started reading Bob's post after he replaced the regulator the first time and still had the same thing Bad meter popped into my head. I have a furnace right know that misfires once in about 100 cycles. I have data recorders plugged in all over the place trying to catch what's going on. Real PITA. I use Fluke, and Field Piece meters and occasionally need to grab a Craftsman inductive DC ampmeter. I even got a $2.00 Johnstone Supply meter I keep in the truck.

Another culprit to look for is a leaking fuel pump. If the diaphragm gets a small hole in it, it can still pump gas (weakly), but gas can get through the hole and end up in the crankcase.

Well at least we have a plan for next time. If he finds something close to me I'll go pick it up and pay for it so it will be here when he comes to get it. What's the worst that could happen, if he doesn't show I'll just keep it.

Haven't been to that show in two years. Nice place, with lots of room to ride as well. Great show to relax at as there's not much "hustle and bustle" going on there. Thanks for sharing the pics.

The PTO engages and disengages using the lever on the right side of the tractor that connects with a rod. If it stays engaged when the lever is pulled back then it could be something frozen by rust, like the bearings. Could also be way out of adjustment or something the previous owner messed with. It's fairly simple to remove the bell with the pulleys for a closer inspection. Is it spinning all the time with an attachment like a mower deck and a belt connected? It could spin all the time if no belt is connected and/or if the little brake shoe is missing or not adjusted correctly. Drain the oil right away and do not run the engine with fuel in the oil. More common to see that in vertical shaft engines when the float in the carb is leaking. Horizontals usually will leak it out the front of the carb but it is possible if the engine is tilted in the right direction to get some in your oil. I would suggest removing the carb and give it a good cleaning and rebuild with new float needle valve. Change the oil and keep a very close eye on it to see if fuel gets in it again. If you can post some pics of the PTO side of the tractor, we can see if you are missing anything or if there is an obvious issue.

Brings some down to Florida. We need more of them here.

When I first started this process I was unable to get the demystification guide. That is when I started replacing parts as I had no guide. Once I got the demystification guide it was much easier to trouble shoot(side note, every one should have the demystification guide!). The coil was bad, the plugs and wires were in need of replacement. The BIG $$$$$ item(ignition trigger/module) is in box original is on tractor. Had her out today and ran for about 2 hrs, it quit once near the end. Sounded as if it lost spark. Waited about 1 minute as I looked it over. Restarted without a problem and continued to run until I put it away. I think it is now fixed and yes I should have listened to the advice here on the forums before replacing parts willy nilly. My Father always believed in the KISS philosophy, Keep It Simple, Stupid(if a light does not work make sure it is plugged in first). I did not follow this when I started my repairs. I now know quite a bit about this tractor so as you said Martin, it was not all in waste. As a word of advice to any who read this thread who are having spark issues........ Get the demystification guide and CHECK ALL THOSE CONNECTIONS!!!! And support these forums by becoming a member. Much gratitude to all those who offered advice! Dave

Nice Geno, I guess you weren't kidding when you said they would become an addiction, lol

My H60s blow some oil out the breather tubes ... all three of them..but its manageable

Today I thought I'ld put some tires on the front so I could push it around easier. So I pushed it into the garage and put on 2 tires from up in the rafters. Now it rolls easy. Well, what if it moved under its own power ... that would be great! No spark. So I cleaned the points. Spark sometimes. Yea.... I didn't do a good job. Cleaned the points again .... took them out and cleaned them on the bench. Good blue spark now. It runs on ether. Put some gas in the tank. Choked it, a shot of ether and it ran for 5 seconds. Another shot and it started easily and kept running. I backed it out and rode it around the yard just enough to warm the oil for an oil change.

How do you pick up the pennies with those short arms?

Tony, you are looking at this thing all wrong. It is a blessing in disguise. Now you can attack that axle and hub directly...the easy way. Sure, you have to split the trans to put the "C" clip back on the axle, but you can clean out the trans and change the seals and know what you have inside. Piece of cake and a silver lining in that cloud.

I got this sickle bar mounted up.....need a new belt underneath but it all functions correctly..... http://youtu.be/xtngehjMHtM

Was thinking of different ideas for a front weight on my 633 and this is what I came up with. Simple yet effective. It weighs 40lbs and it's made from flat steel stock and concrete filled lolli columns. Just had them around the house. The best part is if I need more I can jus weld on what I need.

Which one?

You'll love the extra space. I know I do.

I purchased 1/2" rebar, cut the sticks six foot long. I drove the bar in the ground about 2 feet and spaced the bars 10 feet or so around the garden. I left a four foot opening at one corner. Per the advice of a fellow that worked for me, (farmer kid), he said, I needed to buy a fence unit that is capable of knocking back a steer. He said the hide on a deer is about as tough and the extra power is needed to repel the animal. He further said to install a hot line at four inches above the ground, run a ground that is in contact will all the rebar’s at about twelve inches, another hot at twenty four inches and another hot at forty two inches. I attached the end of the run with extension springs so I could turn off the unit and access the garden with little hassle. All worked well and no more problems. I must say, I could have imported tomatoes from Italy cheaper!