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On Friday, I decided to move the B-100 (worker) from it's summer home (behind the shed) to it's winter home (beside the garage). First thing that I found was a dead battery. Okay, this battery had a date of May 2006, so I wasn't too upset when I had to get a new one. But in checking voltages, my meter said that the charging system was putting out 17.5 volts DC. Hmm... We all know from past electrical discussions that a poor ground on the regulator/rectifier can cause over voltage, so I removed the leads and checked the stator voltage. Good 40 volts AC. Then I cleaned the R/R mounts, made sure that I had a good ground. Tried checking voltages again, and still had the same 17.5 VDC. So, good AC voltage from stator, too high a DC voltage from the regulator/rectifier. Conclusion? Bad regulator/rectifier. So I go rummaging through my collection of R/R's to find one that didn't have too many spider nests in it, cleaned it up, installed it, and...still 17.5 volts. Now I am scratching my head. So let's go back to the beginning. Stator voltage - 38 to 44 volts AC depending on RPM - check. Good grounds around - check. Bad regulator/rectifier - maybe Pulled out another R/R and still the same 17.5 VDC. Okay, this calls for some serious thinking. So I sit down with hot cup of coffee and it comes to me. Check your meter. Took my meter over to a known good battery and it read 16.5. Conclusion? BAD METER in the DC mode. Pulled out my back-up meter and VOILÀ, 12.5 VDC not running, and 13.8 charging. Moral of this story...don't jump to conclusions when it comes to electrical issues.

You're right Mike, I only had 1 as of 3 months ago. Actually I started this looking for 2 others, one for a snow blower and one for a blade to do the lot and drive at the shop. Then I learned about all the attachments and how they could be very useful to me, or others including my customers who always try to buy mine. The more I learned and saw, some sort of obsession set in, I can't explain it. I really am addicted to I'm sure a lot of it also is that all I have done is work, eat, and sleep most of my life and now I have finally found something that I really enjoy. I also really enjoy my time here on the board as well, whether it be trying to help or just having fun. The great people here make it even better and I can't wait till we get things in order enough to start going to some shows! Then there's also the OCD. I've fixed and sold a few already, also many of these will be restored and sold as soon as the snow hits with a blade or blower. Then next spring with a deck or tiller or whatever someone wants. Won't make a lot of money but it's sure a lot of fun.

If by some chance with my Schedule, and I forget or miss picking games for whatever reason, I am Appointing Dino Executor of my picks, in my absence. I hope he doesn't pick MICHIGAN. Signed THE DUKE Go Hawkeyes

I thought I would post the clean up of the 502 I got at the mid mo meet and greet its been a while sense I've had a thread about what I've been working on. Here's what I have the belt guard says its a 502 but I think its a 552 it has the battery box and the HH55 looks original and it ran but the valves are shot and the seats are very pitted someone reground the valves but did not recut the seats so it would run but wouldn't pull its self when I tried to ride it around the yard I cleaned it up with sos pads and pulled the motor I'm not going to paint it I like the old pinta here's sum pics

Absolutely! Geno didn't know it had been oversold, only the seller did. (Buncha bums on CL sometimes, this is not the first time this has happened to me!). I was about an hour into a two hour drive to go get it and thats when I got the "my wife sold it" text. I just knew it was near Geno somewhere and I figured that he probably gobbled it up seeing his purchase spree lately! Geno's a good guy and is keeping a lookout for me . That tractor (not the one in his pictures, the second one I went after) was quite a deal! And luckily the guys at Sunbelt are standup characters and gave me my money back on the trailer rental without me even asking for it! (The trailer I normally use can't hold a 60" deck)

thats great you finally got it working. onan engine electrical can be tiresome and frustrating to work out whats wrong sometimes...... so, just to make sure here, you went through all this drama and aggravation pulling flywheel and other engine components, bought a new ignition module, removed and replaced various ignition components etc. etc. because of a loose wiring connection? you've probably learned a lot more about your tractors engine and how the ignition system and associated components work so all of this wasn't a waste of time, i just think you could have avoided much of the frustration that you encountered by thoroughly checking out the electrical harness to begin with. its still not clear if you discovered any of the ignition components were to blame for your problems, thats one of the problems when replacing parts with out testing. maybe you could clear that up by testing anything you replaced ( you did the module already by replacing the new with old and it worked). the coil and other ignition components could be tested to see if they were the issue. As you found out, parts can only be reliably tested by fixing or bypassing bad electrical issues on a engine or tractor harness first. (that was the idea behind the jumper wire to the coil, bypassing the bad connection/problem area that hadn't been diagnosed yet) hopefully, the problem is fixed now.

Picked up some wheel horse brochures! What do you guys think?

Thanks Martin. I've been looking into this a little bit and Cabot is what I've been seeing a lot of recommendations for. The other popular option appears to be a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and something to thin it with so it will soak in and dry. Via Tapatalk 4

Don't have to worry about AJ, he's cool.

These things are terribly addictive!

Oh yes, I know.. I'm just picking on Geno.. We have had several phone conversations and e-mails back and forth.. Its all in fun, he knows that! [emoji2] [emoji6] I'm going to edit that post to avoid confusion to the community.[emoji6]

51 Case DC this weekend. Good day with my dad.

No problemo for a car lift for sure. It was 3 trucks and the slab came out really nice. Nice pitch etc. Funny thing is the concrete contractor had his eye on the horses.... wanted to know if I had any for sale. He liked how smooth the 520 with the plow on it ran.

I think you have finally gone off the deep end. The big problem I found with having that many tractors is time! Even if they all ran and operated perfect there just isn't enough time to enjoy all of them. That's why I sold off the majority of mine. Couldn't see owning them if I wasn't gonna use or enjoy them.

Too bad you can't watch Terry Bradshaw pick these games. You could pick the exact opposite of him and at least bat .750!

Jason, its funny you ask because i was looking at the deck this past weekend while loading and unloading for the mid mo meet and greet. i think its held up well for the amount of effort i put in and how weathered it already was before staining it. there are a few areas around knots etc where the harder wood grain didn't let the stain soak as much. the trailer gets used every few weeks or so for hauling either tractors or some construction materials etc. not as much as some people here use them hoarding tractors down south, but it does get used. there are a few areas where the wood is damaged a little and it has lost its color, it probably could do with another coat, that will depend on what time i have before winter. as far as storage goes, i think it spent a week inside last winter, the rest of the time I've had it (15 months now) its spent its time outside. it gets almost full sun in the middle of summer and the brunt of our winters. i think for a horizontal surface (not like a fence where moisture runs off) its done fairly well...... heres some pics that should help for the rest of what you asked......

My first name is Ray , and i have wheelhorses...so after a few days of pondering ,i came up with rayshorses.

The issue was never me buying it out from under anyone Nick, glad you brought that up. He said his wife sold it supposedly not knowing that it was already sold. I just called Brandon and found out what happened. He sold it to both of us last night (and maybe even someone else who knows). I think the guy was thinking like some do when things are on CL, who knows if anyone will even show up. I told him I would be there early this morning cause he was only 20 minutes away and I wanted to get it before the shop opened. If I knew Brandon or anyone else had said they were coming to get it I would have told him like many others, if they don't show up call me. I don't do that to people. One thing I know for sure, his wife didn't sell it to me, he did.

If we are all honest, that handle fits the whole bunch of us !!!

The thing that makes this forum so great is the total experience of the membership and their willingness to stay with a problem until it has been solved. There are very few who claim to be total experts on all problems but up here you will always find someone who is knowledgeable with your particular problem. Factor in the friendliness of the entire group and you can see why no one goes away with an unsolved problem. As for the problems of the Onan, I submit that if folks would only follow the recommended maintenance procedures, such as valve adjustment and de-carbon every 500 hours, and especially cleaning under the engine shrouds so air can flow, these engines would last a lifetime.

Yes even doctors make mistakes. That is why our fees are so high. We need to carry extra insurance called " Medical malpractice". Check to see if you policy has a "dumazz" rider, if not get it added.

Glad you are not near Florida....... hard enough finding them and the parts for them. Although my dad managed to round up quite a few. Ill have to put a camo net over them so you can't see them with Google maps, lol. Glad to see at least someone is getting them and doing something with them. Nice score!.

Well the wrench is turning the right direction now

Hi All, Just wanted to send a couple photos of the 520-8 tilling the Garden today. Tractor and tiller did a great job, for the exception of the hitch retainer opening and allowing the tiller to come out of the bracket. I may drill and pin it to keep it closed. Well here's the pics. Take care Mike

So Geno, I gotta ask?? What's your "Grand plan"? I thought I saw you post awhile back that you had had one WH for many years and just a few months ago decided to collect. So here we are a few months later and you keep haulin em in....at an incredible rate! Are you gearing up a long winter of restoring? Or are you planning on flipping a few? Maybe start a WH parts yard like Kelly has? Or are you just shooting for a massive herd? I'm just curious what, if any, your WH goal is. Mike.......

Since I need to wait for the foot pedal from Matt, I decided to put a few decals on the old girl. I am going to get an Exacto knife tomorrow to make good clean cuts for the holes. I can't do the hood yet as I need to wait for the paint to dry and then paint the black. But I am liking what I see so far. I really like what Terry did on the decal for the gage plate. Top line says Restored by Nick Caprinolo. Nice touch and much appreciated. He does an outstanding job on these decals. I am glad I picked the Patriotic decals for this one.

got a little red on it now. deck was weathered from sitting on the trailer lot for 4 months or so. waxed the powdercoat and stained the lumber on the deck a nice redwood color......just need to load it with tractors and go traveling.....

A little time saver to confirm an Onan ignition module is functional prior to installing it, reassembling the engine and keeping your fingers crossed. The diagram below shows how to wire up a standard tail lamp assembly and a few alligator clips to complete the testing. All the wiring and testing can be accomplished on the bench. One Caution - DO NOT TOUCH THE BLACK MODULE LEAD TO 12 VOLT POWER AT ANY TIME. IF NO LOAD (lamp or ign coil) IS PRESENT IN THIS LEAD THE MODULE WILL BE DESTROYED. The modules I have tested so far power have all powered up with the tail light on. When the trigger ring is rotated near the "nose" of the module, one of the two magnets embedded in the trigger ring will turn off the lamp and continued rotation of the ring will pass the second magnet over the "nose" and once again turn on the lamp. An ignition coil puts about a 3 - 4 amp load on the ignition module. A standard automotive tail light will also put the module under approximately the same load and provide a good simulation of the ignition coil load. This post has been promoted to an article

I had both intake seats come out of my onan .Took it to an engine shop and had them replaced the seats . It only cost about $130 bucks and he guaranteed they would never come out.

What !!! Geno keeps this place on it's toes!!!! It's all in fun guys, all in fun. Thanatos, this is just an attempt at humor so please don't take it wrong.

I never fixed one either Geno , but have read some of the fixes from peening to tighten the existing seat to overboring for oversize seats. Just curious, was it the back cyl.? And what was the condition of the cooling fins?

Hi Ken--the block was full of REAL green prestone.... which is A) old school way of winterizing marine engines and a real No-No as most people simply back the boat into the water the first fire off in spring and there goes the real anti-freeze into the lake/river/ocean... I drained it prior to firing it off and the H20 impeller was already swapped.... The carb will be addressed. The 25' boat I'm putting together is going to be sold.... I don't like sedan cruisers (everybody else seems to so that's good for sales) . The basic and quick story---I bought a 1984 Bayliner Cierra flybridge for some parts and the outdrive---this is the boat this engine came out of. The boat is being stripped of all its stainless, copper, brass, lights, controls etc.. and then is being shredded by the big fiberglass eating machine for $200.... the boat is shot sorry to say. I got everything I wanted and the motor was 100% bonus and for what I paid its a complete home run. 2 months after buying the above boat I found a 1986 Bayliner Cierra 25' Sedan Bridge and bought that because it had a $3500 Volvo Duo Prop drive... I wanted that drive BAD for my 32' Bayliner. I paid almost nothing for this rig, its clean and nicely laid out.... it came with a remanufactured 350 Chevy. So I pulled that out and its for sale to someone that needs an engine---that should bring in $3000 full dress and ready to run. The 305 from the above boat is going back in and it will be for sale for $5500 in the spring. A lot of wrench turning but that's what I enjoy and I should make a decent profit after working out all the details with the guy that lets me use his shop etc... we are basically partners on the whole deal. So... I get a Duo Prop drive on my 32 footer which is suppose to increase my MPG by about 15% basically for turning the wrenches plus some spending cash in my pocket. Not a bad score in my book.... so far I have about 30 hours of labor into the whole process... the Duo Prop drives really are the best ever.... read up on them via google Tony Heres a pic of my Bayliner with my kids on board in Wethersfield Cove and another of the Bayliner I'm putting together on the trailer....

Someone tried that already!!!

good thing my trailer is enclosed!! ill just have to make sure I lock it up

The PTO engages and disengages using the lever on the right side of the tractor that connects with a rod. If it stays engaged when the lever is pulled back then it could be something frozen by rust, like the bearings. Could also be way out of adjustment or something the previous owner messed with. It's fairly simple to remove the bell with the pulleys for a closer inspection. Is it spinning all the time with an attachment like a mower deck and a belt connected? It could spin all the time if no belt is connected and/or if the little brake shoe is missing or not adjusted correctly. Drain the oil right away and do not run the engine with fuel in the oil. More common to see that in vertical shaft engines when the float in the carb is leaking. Horizontals usually will leak it out the front of the carb but it is possible if the engine is tilted in the right direction to get some in your oil. I would suggest removing the carb and give it a good cleaning and rebuild with new float needle valve. Change the oil and keep a very close eye on it to see if fuel gets in it again. If you can post some pics of the PTO side of the tractor, we can see if you are missing anything or if there is an obvious issue.

Geno, did you happen to swipe up another one today? I had one purchased, then halfway there the guy told me his wife sold it out from under me! It was "within" your wide reaching wheel-horse monopoly range...

When I first started this process I was unable to get the demystification guide. That is when I started replacing parts as I had no guide. Once I got the demystification guide it was much easier to trouble shoot(side note, every one should have the demystification guide!). The coil was bad, the plugs and wires were in need of replacement. The BIG $$$$$ item(ignition trigger/module) is in box original is on tractor. Had her out today and ran for about 2 hrs, it quit once near the end. Sounded as if it lost spark. Waited about 1 minute as I looked it over. Restarted without a problem and continued to run until I put it away. I think it is now fixed and yes I should have listened to the advice here on the forums before replacing parts willy nilly. My Father always believed in the KISS philosophy, Keep It Simple, Stupid(if a light does not work make sure it is plugged in first). I did not follow this when I started my repairs. I now know quite a bit about this tractor so as you said Martin, it was not all in waste. As a word of advice to any who read this thread who are having spark issues........ Get the demystification guide and CHECK ALL THOSE CONNECTIONS!!!! And support these forums by becoming a member. Much gratitude to all those who offered advice! Dave

you can buy ethanol free small engine fuel at the hardware store for 6 or 7$ a quart or spend $5 a gallon at the marina , also check out leaded aviation fuel at $7 to 10 a gallon. If you are using a lot of fuel over a short period of time use ethanol added fuel but when you are done running the engine shot the fuel off and run the carb dry or drain the ethanol fuel from the tank and run a splash of real gas thru it and then run the carb dry. for my lawn stuff I just pay the premium price and buy marine fuel and keep a couple of 5 gal cans on hand, When I need to run the generator for a power outage I usually run on what ever fuel is available (ethanol fuel) and when the power comes back on I drain the tank, run the carb dry and then flush the fuel system with good gas and run the engine for 10 or 15 minutes and then run it dry and drain the tank until the next time it's needed. In myopinion the drain and flush proceedure is less time consuming and costly than the aggravation of an engine that won't run or run right when I need want/need it to run. The $ 1.50 a gallon premium price adds up to $20 or$30 a year for me and that's less than a carb kit and soak solution or a new carb.

Battery Charged þ Body Washed þ Lens Cleaned þ Lights Operational þ Accessories Attached þ Probably should get some tractors ready

My H60s blow some oil out the breather tubes ... all three of them..but its manageable

Right now Amazon.com has a good price on Carlisle 23x8.5x12 tires. $58 a piece

Today I thought I'ld put some tires on the front so I could push it around easier. So I pushed it into the garage and put on 2 tires from up in the rafters. Now it rolls easy. Well, what if it moved under its own power ... that would be great! No spark. So I cleaned the points. Spark sometimes. Yea.... I didn't do a good job. Cleaned the points again .... took them out and cleaned them on the bench. Good blue spark now. It runs on ether. Put some gas in the tank. Choked it, a shot of ether and it ran for 5 seconds. Another shot and it started easily and kept running. I backed it out and rode it around the yard just enough to warm the oil for an oil change.

Tony, you are looking at this thing all wrong. It is a blessing in disguise. Now you can attack that axle and hub directly...the easy way. Sure, you have to split the trans to put the "C" clip back on the axle, but you can clean out the trans and change the seals and know what you have inside. Piece of cake and a silver lining in that cloud.

You did stuff like this when you were a kid didn't you?

I got this sickle bar mounted up.....need a new belt underneath but it all functions correctly..... http://youtu.be/xtngehjMHtM

It is a single cyl. How do I tell if it is a Magnetron ? The magnet on the flywheel feels real strong. Are you saying the wire coming from behind the flywheel should not be connected to the small lug where I have the black probe in the second picture ? Is 0.010" the correct gap ? How do I know if it has points ? Are they behind the flywheel ? Sorry I don't know much about the Briggs...I could not find a plate to get any info from. All I know is it's a 7HP in a 1969 MTD lawn tractor.

So far I am replacing pistons, rings, cylinders, rods, crankshaft, camshaft, 4 valves. possible valve guides(cylinders still being done), oil pump drive gear, points rod, both crank sleeve bearings, points and carb overhaul, seals and gaskets.

Why on earth would you guys suggest remedies that don't include finding the cause of the problem? Yep tube it.... and if it's a small nail or screw that got picked up, it'll puncture that too. Find the cause. Could be a nail, thorn or sharp stick, could be weather cracks, could be a loose valve stem... could just be a leaking bead that all you need to do is re-seat. Why buy a solution to a problem you don't understand?