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This the 606 I bought last year off of E-Bay it did not run but when I pick it up When got it home it ran for less than 30" so after a long year of wondering to day was the day I found out. That nice little Tecky sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=mdNmYdN3DbY

Just thought I would post an update to Maci's 1056. Almost completed the resto. Kohler 301 rebuilt and running. (We take 'em as we can get 'em down here). Had quite a few bits, pieces and parts that had to be located. Thanks to a few RS Members that either provided parts or a location for them. Machining parts with a drill press, grinder and file is quite the experience. Starter Generator belt cover, battery box, Gas Tank retainer are all freshly painted and waiting installation. Has been a fun project. Will be more fun to ride Maci around on it.

Finally had time to set up my dually rear end on the FEL 520-H. It was very unstable with a heavy load and the bucket at or elevated above the tractor's hood. I simulated an issue I had at my neighbor's house with a load of wet modified stone on his inclined area and with the duals, it was a hundred times more stable. No issues at all plus I had a better "bite" into the stone pile with the added traction. Too bad the tires extend beyond the bucket's width. It would be cool to see how it would do removing snow but not as I run over and pack snow on either side of me. Some pics of the setup right after I installed them. (Not the same tread but close enough for a worker tractor)!

Glad you are OK Geno...you weren't TALKING when it happened were you???

A few more.

I just put up this industrial quality 20 x 30 storage building for all my tractors and attachments. Horses look happy there. Cleat

ok..I gotta ask how this trans got 1-1/8th axles in it?????..The only 4-speeds transmissions with 1-1/8th axle's were the 953-1054 trans and they had long axles in them and the bevel gear differential....and some of those trans had bronze bushings were the axle needle bearings are now...So either the cases are from a 953-1054 or some one had the cases machined to except the 1-1/8th axle and the bore size maybe off and not letting the seal seat correctly.... .....The correct trans should be a 5053 with 1" axles.

I said it once and I'll say it again, they ARE STALKING ME!

I'm sitting in pizza hut posting this on my phone because I can't wait until I get home to post on my computer. Just picked up a c160 with excellent looking deck and snowblower. Very straight and complete tractor and nice looking attachments. Here's the only pic I have at the moment, more to come .......... Like I need any more on my plate right now....... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My GT-1100 has the 1" axles and no dial-a-height (and its missing a few other parts as well). Its one of my quietest tractors . Mike.........

I am discinclined to acquiesce to your request.......Means NO. Favorit Pirate quote that I do not limit to once a year to use. It is part of the everyday quiver as a manager:)

There is a pipe plug on the very bottom of the Uni-drive for draining the unit. If the tractor runs, it helps in draining if the gear oil is warmed up - if not, it just takes longer. Take note of what comes out - the oil may very well be contaminated with water and look milky - worst case is that there is standing water in it and you would want to split the case to check for damaged internal parts. If it is just discolored or milky, you need to flush it before refilling it. I have had good success using a 50-50 mix of Marvel Mystery Oil & new motor oil for a flush. You do need to spin the internals with the flush mix inside - drive it slowly for a few minutes or tow it behind another tractor - the idea is to get the mix to all the internals. Getting the mix inside - there is a second pipe plug at an angle on the lower left side for filling, but I find it easier to remove the shifter & boot in neutral & add the mix in that opening using a funnel - that will give you a small view of how nasty the inside is. Allow the mix to drain, repeat as necessary until it shows no water. Fill with GL-5 rated 85W-90 or 90W-140 gear oil - yours takes 1 and a quarter quarts if I recall - use the side plug as a sight plug - remove it & fill until it flows out. One more note - check the frame plate at the 4 screw holes where the Uni-drive bolts on for distortion damage & cracks - I've got 2 854's - both were damaged (but fixable). Bill

Mentone pg 4 pic's.

Mentone pg 3 pic's.

Variety is the spice of life. We all collect tractors for various reasons. Some brands are better engineered than others, some are manufactured for a certain price market, some are historically a good dependable tractor and some just defy all reason although there are not too many of these thank goodness. To each their own. Can you imagine what values our Wheel Horse's would have if they were the only tractor being collected? And, think about how hard to find they would be. Like people, I find beauty and use in almost every tractor I see. Albeit some more than others. ;-)

Mentone Fall Show/Swapmeet was a great time. Had a blast. Here are some pic's for you to look at.

Probably just needs axle seals, not a big deal to replace. Pulling the hubs is another thing, some slide right off and others, well, there are volumes of tales posted here on the woes of pulling hubs. You'll git 'er done.

Geno-mart! Glad to hear your ok through the accident.

Jack. If you put in a couple eyes and a nose it looks like a dog with big floppy ears. Lol Anyway....Looking great and coming together super nice. Glenn

Too low?......... Just right? Had to move some stuff around in the shed and that involved getting her off the table. Figured I would push it outside and get an idea of how it's going to sit. I have some new front tires on a wider rim so it wont have as tall of a tire in the front. I think I like it.

Hey Wake . You may want to think about changing your user name to LUCKY. What-a-score and at a pretty good price.

Hello. I am new to the site. I just picked up (for free!) a Wheel Horse 854 that I plan on making a project for the winter. The owner got it with the house 25 years ago from its original owner (so he says. Then again, if he's giving it up for free I see no reason for him to lie...). He said he threw a little oil in the head and gas in the tank the morning I picked it up, threw a battery charger on it and it turned over. He suggested that I drain the current oil, throw some kerosene in and crank it over a few times to clean out the gunk. Then throw some lightweight oil in and run it for a few minutes, then drain that oil and top it off with heavyweight oil. He also suggested I clean the gas tank with toilet bowl cleaner before I add gas. I will need to paint it to stop it from rusting in spots. It needs new rear tires (and probably fronts) because they are dry-rotted. There is some crud down on the frame under the engine. It looks to me that it is all original. It came with a cart and an aerator. I took some pics this morning before I left for work. Friday night my four year old and I will start dismantling the parts I need to paint.

Finally, progress!!! Got my stainless steel hardware and have start the reassembly process. I'm still waiting for a couple of parts to come back from the paint shop. Had a slight problem painting some with Rustoleum spray cans and some with Rustoleum quarts. They don't match exactly, so I had some of the more major parts repainted by my paint guy. Hope it turns out so that it is not noticeable.

What's in your mirror... ...this time Geno?

Her's another thing I thought of That 2nd seal in there could be fooling you into believing that that axle bearing is good and tight. I think It should all come apart and be gone thru.

I got to thinking a few months ago that it might be interesting to use the family tree concept to map out the entire wheel horse family. It's easy to plot right from an RJ up to a black hood knowing that they evolved into round hoods, short frame, long frame, hydros, etc, etc I'm up for drawing this up, but might just need a little help as whilst I know my wheel horse onions - I'm by no means an expert I think as a point of reference it could be incredibly useful esp. when it comes down to swapping out engines, transmissions, etc. Here's a quick sketch of what I was thinking, thoughts??

Aldon...WTF are you talking about??? Ye be a pirate or not??

I have one just like this thats going on the table for a restore for the wife. Thanks for the pics.

I've had two Massey MF10s. They were nice tractors, well built. But alas, they (and their Teccy motors) had to walk the plank!

Well I'll get pictures when I actually get to the shop. The last couple of nights been rest and recover time from very long days dealing with tons of stupid... Tonight or tomorrow at the latest...

I wish I would of thought of doing that. I even have some of the Birchwood Casey stuff. I tried everything I could think of. You done good!!

This morning I went to Tractor Supply. They sell hardware by the pound. Bought four pounds of bolts. Zink coated and really cheap. I was really surprised how many pieces you get in Four pounds. Also bought a couple pair of Jeans while I was there. Came home and fooled around out there for a while and decided to repaint the hood. Sanded it down smooth and painted it. This time it turned out the way I wanted it to. No bugs or dust. I also finished installing all the hydraulic lines. While sanding it down, I believe I discovered what wet sanding will do, if it is done right. While I did not wet sand it, I did use some very fine paper. I could see the orange peal just disappear as I sanded. When I get this job finished I am going to experiment with an old MTD hood I have laying around here. I believe it would be worth the time to teach myself to do this and then polish it up real good.

Wonder, will that towel absorb oil spills too?

I see 8 plows. I get ornery if I have to trip over 2! Call up Steve. He needs something to do this winter and he likes painting plows!

The only thing I could notice is the stock pile of snow/dozer blades standing on end..

That was all most a Big mistake, there are a couple games that I haved looked at and at least one need to be changed. Mizzouri over Indiana, I have No idea what I was thinking but I woke up. Must have been sleeping when I picked the Big Ten outright,ooppps! Kind of hoping the Hawkeyes wake up this weekend. Was a big time bummer last weekend. As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!

good find

Another really nice score... interesting to note...how all these early carts, all of a sudden, start coming out of the wood work.

He can talk about it here, we have the other brands section. If someone gets offended that's their problem, people can do whatever makes them happy. I do most of my mowing with a Cub Cadet Commercial zero turn, wouldn't want to get the Horses dirty you know.

Yes...but if you still have the trans attached to the frame...it works both ways. I always like being on top. I lied...I like the bottom also. Best answer...just like taping in a bearing. I use a punch (with a good edge)...you can see where you need to tap it and you can see if it is going in straight.

Thanks so much guys, this is so interesting. Can't wait to see more. Hey Craig, I think your screen name here is AMC Rules. Can't be a car thing because Chevy's Rule.

Riddle: what's thicker, Craig's user name list or the NYC yellow pages book?

Which one?

And don't forget to turn the camera on .........

Nappy, my thoughts would be to start simple and get a few small victories under your belt first. I would trace back the wire from the headlights and wire that to the "A" terminal of the ignition switch. I would then find the wire attached to the "B+" terminal of the voltage regulator and wire it to the "B" terminal of the ignition switch. Turn the switch to the RUN position, and flip the lights switch and your headlights should come on. First victory and you gain some confidence in your wiring / tracing ability. Next step would be trace the starter relay wire back from the small terminal of the starter relay and attach that to the "S" terminal of the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to the START position and the engine should crank (won't start yet without the "I" terminal wired. Let's get this far - cranking and headlight s on - then we can go further.

The most signifcant difference between common igniton switches is the wiring configuration between MAGNETO based ignition systems and POINTS and COIL (Kettering)based systems. MAGNETO systems do not require connection to 12 volt power sources to function and must have their "kill" terminal connected to the battery negative terminal when ignition is shut down. Kettering systems require 12 volts to be present on the coil for ignition and removal of the 12 volts will kill the ignition. These two different types of electrical configurations require 2 different styles (and part #) ignition switches. Switches that have an "I" terminal are for Kettering systems and switches that have an "M" terminal are for magneto systems. Using and miswiring a Ketterimg system switch into a magneto based tractor will fry the magneto coil.

I'm probably all alone here, but I really like that paint scheme and the small racing steering wheel. I would be tempted to leave it as is and just bask in the fact that I own my dad's tractor regardless of the paint and motor. Mike..............