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This the 606 I bought last year off of E-Bay it did not run but when I pick it up When got it home it ran for less than 30" so after a long year of wondering to day was the day I found out. That nice little Tecky sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=mdNmYdN3DbY

Just thought I would post an update to Maci's 1056. Almost completed the resto. Kohler 301 rebuilt and running. (We take 'em as we can get 'em down here). Had quite a few bits, pieces and parts that had to be located. Thanks to a few RS Members that either provided parts or a location for them. Machining parts with a drill press, grinder and file is quite the experience. Starter Generator belt cover, battery box, Gas Tank retainer are all freshly painted and waiting installation. Has been a fun project. Will be more fun to ride Maci around on it.

Finally had time to set up my dually rear end on the FEL 520-H. It was very unstable with a heavy load and the bucket at or elevated above the tractor's hood. I simulated an issue I had at my neighbor's house with a load of wet modified stone on his inclined area and with the duals, it was a hundred times more stable. No issues at all plus I had a better "bite" into the stone pile with the added traction. Too bad the tires extend beyond the bucket's width. It would be cool to see how it would do removing snow but not as I run over and pack snow on either side of me. Some pics of the setup right after I installed them. (Not the same tread but close enough for a worker tractor)!

Glad you are OK Geno...you weren't TALKING when it happened were you???

A few more.

I just put up this industrial quality 20 x 30 storage building for all my tractors and attachments. Horses look happy there. Cleat

ok..I gotta ask how this trans got 1-1/8th axles in it?????..The only 4-speeds transmissions with 1-1/8th axle's were the 953-1054 trans and they had long axles in them and the bevel gear differential....and some of those trans had bronze bushings were the axle needle bearings are now...So either the cases are from a 953-1054 or some one had the cases machined to except the 1-1/8th axle and the bore size maybe off and not letting the seal seat correctly.... .....The correct trans should be a 5053 with 1" axles.

I said it once and I'll say it again, they ARE STALKING ME!

I'm sitting in pizza hut posting this on my phone because I can't wait until I get home to post on my computer. Just picked up a c160 with excellent looking deck and snowblower. Very straight and complete tractor and nice looking attachments. Here's the only pic I have at the moment, more to come .......... Like I need any more on my plate right now....... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My GT-1100 has the 1" axles and no dial-a-height (and its missing a few other parts as well). Its one of my quietest tractors . Mike.........

I am discinclined to acquiesce to your request.......Means NO. Favorit Pirate quote that I do not limit to once a year to use. It is part of the everyday quiver as a manager:)

There is a pipe plug on the very bottom of the Uni-drive for draining the unit. If the tractor runs, it helps in draining if the gear oil is warmed up - if not, it just takes longer. Take note of what comes out - the oil may very well be contaminated with water and look milky - worst case is that there is standing water in it and you would want to split the case to check for damaged internal parts. If it is just discolored or milky, you need to flush it before refilling it. I have had good success using a 50-50 mix of Marvel Mystery Oil & new motor oil for a flush. You do need to spin the internals with the flush mix inside - drive it slowly for a few minutes or tow it behind another tractor - the idea is to get the mix to all the internals. Getting the mix inside - there is a second pipe plug at an angle on the lower left side for filling, but I find it easier to remove the shifter & boot in neutral & add the mix in that opening using a funnel - that will give you a small view of how nasty the inside is. Allow the mix to drain, repeat as necessary until it shows no water. Fill with GL-5 rated 85W-90 or 90W-140 gear oil - yours takes 1 and a quarter quarts if I recall - use the side plug as a sight plug - remove it & fill until it flows out. One more note - check the frame plate at the 4 screw holes where the Uni-drive bolts on for distortion damage & cracks - I've got 2 854's - both were damaged (but fixable). Bill

Mentone pg 4 pic's.

Mentone pg 3 pic's.

Variety is the spice of life. We all collect tractors for various reasons. Some brands are better engineered than others, some are manufactured for a certain price market, some are historically a good dependable tractor and some just defy all reason although there are not too many of these thank goodness. To each their own. Can you imagine what values our Wheel Horse's would have if they were the only tractor being collected? And, think about how hard to find they would be. Like people, I find beauty and use in almost every tractor I see. Albeit some more than others. ;-)

Mentone Fall Show/Swapmeet was a great time. Had a blast. Here are some pic's for you to look at.

Probably just needs axle seals, not a big deal to replace. Pulling the hubs is another thing, some slide right off and others, well, there are volumes of tales posted here on the woes of pulling hubs. You'll git 'er done.

Geno-mart! Glad to hear your ok through the accident.

Jack. If you put in a couple eyes and a nose it looks like a dog with big floppy ears. Lol Anyway....Looking great and coming together super nice. Glenn

Too low?......... Just right? Had to move some stuff around in the shed and that involved getting her off the table. Figured I would push it outside and get an idea of how it's going to sit. I have some new front tires on a wider rim so it wont have as tall of a tire in the front. I think I like it.

Hey Wake . You may want to think about changing your user name to LUCKY. What-a-score and at a pretty good price.

If anyone remembers my last post, I had a song stuck in my head for like ever. The best way to get rid of it? Learn it! but here's something else I've been into lately! So much 70's fusion good-ness!

He bought another plow!

if that inner seal is shot, that axle may not be quite centered in the bore

What's in your mirror... ...this time Geno?

Oil is Napa 1348. Get it with the 1410. Don't throw away your money with Fram

When I did my 312H, I used Ace hardware brand Banner Red, a bit brighter then RustyO, but looks great. I could spray on 5 coats in about 2 hrs and within 1 more hr I was handling the parts and bolting them back in place the next day, Never seen anyone else mention this paint before, I am happy with the way mine turned out.

SCREEEEECH KACHUNK!

Craig, in your next to last pic in your last post the rubber on the seal looks like it is rolled to the inside. It could be that the rubber is jammed into the first seal causing it to be distorted and creating a leak point. With the few seals I've installed over the years the rubber was always rolled to the outside and rode smoothly on the axle surface. I would try one more seal making sure that the rubber does not get rolled toward the first seal and see if that corrects the problem. If it doesn't then it's time to open up the trans, get the diff out, remove the inner seal and put in new bearing to the proper depth then use a new seal. That should take care of the problem.

I'll add one thing to that and suggest that you hoist up the front when you're draining. There's a hump inside that will trap some of the fluid.

I have not bought any, but I have always liked the looks of the Panzers, Allis Chalmers, and the Minneapolis Molines.

it sure is fun finding cool older posts like this, I wonder how the restoration is coming along. I see flhharley hasn't been on Red Square since his last post in April 2013...

My old cat was named Cody. Back then I had just gotten a boat, and named it Coadster after him. 32 is was my street address at the time. Good topic. Back on the old RS site, the same topic was started, and it had a bunch of pages to it, with a lot of the "senior members" participating. (can't seem to find that link though)

I appreciate your response, thank you. As Paul Harvey says, now for the rest of the story... This is for my Kubota. Pictured is the frame I have on the rear of it and I have a WheelHorse plow blade that I would like to utilize. Just looking for ideas. The Kubota has a FEL on front. $1900 will buy a Hydraulic 60" plow that fits my tractor or a TSC rear plow for a factory made one, haven't priced it yet. My last idea is to somehow modify the rear axle plow bracket and frame mount it underneath the Kubota and figure out how to lift it with the deck lift mechanism and use the Wheel Horse plow frame. I am in the thinking stages as I still will use my 414-8 to move snow but the thought of 4 wheel drive and the smell of diesel just gets me wanting to go that way.

What's wrong with a one stop shop? No more hunting to do.

Did all that, and then some... still managed to crush the third, and last one I had on hand last night. And yet, more are on the way.

LUCKY

You can't beat free. Will be a really nice tractor with a little love and that cart will be really nice with a little cleaning and some red paint.

That will make a great project. Keep posting pictures of your progress, we love pictures!!

Ball hones are not the best method of cylinder honing as they simply rough the surface and skip over hard spots. You would do much better honing with a three stone hone. Check your oil pump and oil pump gear shear pin, get some real assembly lube for bearings and rods(I use Royal Purple) Check your crankshaft end play and drive the flywheel side seal in after assembling the cases. Take care in the valve stem adjustments before final assembly, use new wrist pin keepers and align your ring sets to the proper gap opening orientation after checking for proper ring end gap dimensions. Some of this may not apply as the last Kohler twin I rebuilt as a KT series.

That's going to be a hotrod horse.

Today I was able to get moving on back filling the foundation after the crew removed the forms. I am just about out of the dirt that I dug out of the hole. I will be calling for more fill to be delivered this week.

And don't forget to turn the camera on .........

Thank you very much for taking the time to express those sentiments. I am not a big fan of pinned messages that are left "open". The pinned message eventually becomes a dumping ground for every random thought anyone has concerning the subject. The initial clarity of the thread becomes compromised and subsequent readers can spend days trying to decipher among conflicting approaches attempting to solve the same problem. Inevitably, someone posts a picture of a shiny tractor, comments start regarding the paint or tires on the tractor and the thread gets derailed. I do believe an alternative should be sought after. Helping someone learn to troubleshoot a dead battery or corroded ignition switch is only fun the first 500 times you do it !! I don't wish for #501 to be short changed when they require assistance with their new found prize tractor.

Save Old Iron I do wish there were someplace on this site that stored all your illustrations in one place. They are absolutely marvelous and an enormous help for our members. I have hold an Extra class Amateur Radio License, and a better understanding of electronics, than a lot of folks but you sir teach me something new every time you post. From reading earlier post of yours I gather you have a host of slides, drawings or photos stored and all that would be needed is to find a spot on the forum to post them. One sticky in the electronics section to which you could add to as the need arose would do it. Again Thank you for the great service you provide to all of us.