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The horse I put together by mixing parts from a 518h and 520hc has become a favorite of mine sense completion. now thanks to my sweetheart it has custom decails She contacted vinylguy and he did an excellent job on them!!!! great surprise, very nice quality, thanks to you both

Here's what the question is about by the way..... Ad is asking $500 If I read the ad right, I'd say that's priced pretty well. An RJ-58, with engine has a SPR-42 snow blade and a PP-8 plow with it, and there's two of something... ad says "one for parts and one complete". Seems like a good buy to me. I'd imagine there's already someone on the way to look at it/buy it.

GENO...don't stop posting...you are doing fine and I for one have been enjoying your contribution. Just so you know...there is an ignore function here on Red Square...I use it on a couple of guys and it works great.

being from kentucky gives you the right to be chatty, i know when i'm drinking bourbon i can't shut up!

GENO, when I first got on Red Square, I had some knowledge of engines (working in a "service station") back in the 60's. My Dad had these tractors and they had been sitting for about 20 years. When he passed, I decided to try to get them running again. I found Red Square and the good people on here, they helped me with whatever I needed...manuals, advice. I started going to shows to meet these guys, get parts and see what the love was all about. I have been going to the shows now for about 5 years all over the Midwest and the north east and have met very many of the members that are active on this site. What a ride!! One day I had to rebuild the trans in my 702...1533 bearing was shot. I found a place in transmissions where I started rebuilding them with videos...no one had done that before...and I was suddenly able to help and give back. I really feel like I am part of this site now. I still ask questions (I do not know everything), but there is no feeling like walking someone through rebuilding a transmission and saving a horse with someone who normally would have not even thought of opening one. I have truly been blessed here and I know it. Never feel like not posting in a thread if you have something to offer. It could be a question, that makes everyone think...it could be a thought that has not been presented...it could be the answer that the original guy was looking for...and you could get your "hooby dooby" stepped on also. Mine is pretty flat now. The nice thing about this site is, we all learn together and most are tolerant and willing to share what they have learned. Don't worry about your post count...it really does not mean much. Go to a couple of shows and meet some of the members...listen to what they have to say...that is what is important...the rest will come naturally. Welcome Aboard Mate.

Nah Geno you're fine. It's refreshing to see some new enthusiasm around here. The old enthusiasm was getting kinda boring.

I second what Jim said. Wait till winter rolls around and the forum activity slows to a crawl . Then we'll really need more of that enthusiasm!

This is a forum. Taking is what it's all about. Keep 'em coming.

Happy Birthday Megan. 17 years old today. While ill the entire time, at least you got to make it to the Wheel Horse Show again this year. Unfortunately the WHCC 2015 show won't happen for this clan, this 17 year old will be celebrating her High School Graduation that same weekend. Megan!

How about thoughts on what's inside. Pulled the head off last weekend. Pictured is what I found. Worth saving? or too badly damaged As I mentioned in previous post, flywheel turns freely, piston /valves go up and down - that doesn't mean much but it's something. What are the determining factors in deciding whether to fish or cut bait? I have no experience rebuilding an engine but I'm game if nothing else More pics required of bottom of engine, piston, crank? Also drained the oil - was pleasantly surprised to find at least 1/2 quart.

You know? I'm thinkin' what the Squonk says is making scents here... I thought it was weird that the back of the woodruff key(closest to the trans)was curling up, out of it's channel... as the hub was backing off it. Upon closer inspection, I can see a ball of grit in there that was pushing it up against the hub. I think if you look inside of the hub...the pict tells the whole story here. Also, interesting how wet the axle is vs. the dry appearance of the hub bore.

I do not have an answer, but i have several times been surprised how even after it starst to move it fights all the way off. Most gears/bearing etc. once they pop free come off easily....not so hubs.

heres the only pic i have and it was after the battle was won....... i did mine on the floor of the garage, trans apart from the frame as well, but it wasn't sitting on the tire though. now that would have been a challenge in itself.....

So that's why I haven't heard from you!!!!!

More seat time!

Welcome to the Site Geno I've been off a couple months so you haven't bothered me.. Oh and Chuck, I thought I would mention you misspelled develop.

Is a gorgeous ... can't wait to see it's new bling installed.

My decks all leave a strip in the turns. I just do a couple end run passes to clean it up when I'm finished.

I've been here less than 2 months and this is post #500. Do I talk too much? Should I take a vacation and give you guys a break?

Anyone else had this problem? The hydro drive belt tension rod seems to still be available but not the top plate, so I ran down the street and Scot made me some new parts. He's the bomb. The top plate is now 4 times as thick and stainless. Here are some pics of before and after, new parts are still in the rough here. He also now has the unavailable top plate in his CNC plasma cutter software so he can make one for anyone who needs one out of whatever material + thickness you want. He has the rod in there too and the Wheel Horse script of course in that style you see. Terry (Vinylguy) had a hand in helping with the correct writing style for the Wheel Horse lettering part, he's the best too.

I have always wanted a John Deere 110 round fender. Some of you know that earlier this year, in a matter of weeks I bought two 1965, 110 round fenders. After looking both tractors over and driving them for a bit I decided that I really didn't care for the mechanicals of the John Deere. I also didn't like how the engine was placed inside the engine compartment and frame. I do however like their color combination, variable speed and styling. In the past month I've been approached by four different people to purchase their Wheelhorse tractor's. I purchased two of them but I decided I didn't need anymore in my heard because I already had eight or nine Wheel Horse plus the two John Deere. Even with a new barn I still only have so much time, space and money. Well I finally decided that I'm a Wheelhorse guy through and through (although I'm still looking for a nice Farmall Cub) and sold both John Deere tractors yesterday. Now I have the space and the money to pick up the rest of those tractors that were offered to me. So today I applied to get my Wheel a Horse Man Card back. A idea how long that will take? :-)

Craig- but all and all that two hub method with bolts and nuts tightened works! PB Blaster helps if you turn axle (or can) and take out set screw/bolt on hub you are trying to remove and add a little over an hour or more. Those axles and hubs don't get removed very many times in their life. It is like trying to take your wedding ring off! It takes a while!

Mike, I agree with Rob. Pull the hub off and check the key. Also, make sure that you can run the bolt further in than normal while you have the hub off. John

Yup, looks like the woodruff key ratcheted up and acted like a locking pawl. Kudos for getting it off in one piece.

Quite a puller you have there, very nice.

I agree with Geno we all price stuff a little higher then we are willing to take so offer him a little less !

Jason...you managed to get a lot of very nice pictures of equipment standing alone. Excellent Mate.

Looking good Bert! Happy Birthday too

Go to search and type in PTO Friction Disc....lots of goooooood info there....think you will like it~!

Yeah, I think it's very fairly priced.

OK .. now I get it, Morgans are tough little horses.

Absolutely worth saving. Ive saved a whole lot worse than that. Pop that thing apart and measure your bore, more than likely find its wore out of round find a reputable machine shop and get on a first name basis with them. only way I would never proceed is if on inspection you found any kind of a crack in the cylinder wall. I have a K 301 that has a chunk missing from the lower end of the cylinder from where a rod let loose-piston does not travel that far.had it bored .010 new internals overhaul kit from e bay and prob have 300 hours on it no trouble. your mileage may vary!. Even if it was cracked if you threw enough time and money at it you could have it fixed,but that is where I draw a line in the sand.Regards.

I've got leaves falling from Maples already...have not changed color though...but the natives are chopping wood like crazy. I hope I get 2 months in the fall to watch paint dry.

X2 all the way. Looks like your valves move ok to the crank. Don't be nervous about the oil...(I'd be dirty too if I didn't take a bath in 40+ years)

I called my 520 a Clydesdale awhile back and one of the girls said that one (the 518) must be a Morgan lol somehow the name stuck. Now it will literally be stuck Thanks for the comments and likes folks

OK. The results are in. I had a delay due to things coming up but the total tank time was about 8 hours. Before I get a bunch of “I told you so’s†let me say again, I never expected it to work but I just had to see what would happen. I’ve been using electrolysis for more years than I care to admit and do have a good understanding of the process as well as, let’s just say, a wee bit of experience in the electrical industry. When I saw FarmerJim’s post it hit me that I had never tried a chunk of aluminum. Why? Cuz it won’t work. But just what would happen? I had the Tecky head that was going to end up in the trash anyways so I gave it a shot. I had brushed the carbon prior to tanking to remove the loose stuff. After removing it from the tank this morning I just washed in dish soap and lightly brushed it again. More carbon came off but that could have just been from the soaking. The remaining carbon is still attached pretty good. It doesn’t look like it harmed the head and there was no buildup on the anodes. You can see that it’s discolored some and it’s not like the usual black crud that gets washed off. I would say the bottom line is what most expected. There are much better ways to clean a head up. As far as the other issue that comes up so often, it’s not supposed to remove paint either. But it does, even on clean metal. Yes, I’m sure the quality of the paint plays a part but I’ve never failed to get at least 90% of it off. What remains seems to come off much easier. My usual procedure is to start the process on the part to be cleaned. About two hours later I remove the part and clean the loose but still clinging paint off so it doesn’t gunk up the solution so much. Then I cook it some more until I get the result I want. It’s quite possible that I’ve never tried it on a paint good enough but maybe that will be another experiment. So, FarmerJim, since you want to save your head I wouldn’t try it. I know that from firsthand experience now. I don’t think it hurt it but…………..??? If anybody else asks a question about cleaning aluminum in an e-tank you can say emphatically “NO, it won’t work cuz I once read in a forum about this idiot that tried it.â€

I would suggest draining your gas tank first of all the fuel. Put new clean gas and buy some Seafoam for removing carbon and cleaning the motor and carb , etc. You can also use a tad bit in oil and change it too while at it. You can have build up, water in gas from Ethanol, etc. See if this does not improve performance first before going the route of taking to a shop to work on ! You may be surprised with the results.

Try disconnecting the "M" wire at the switch. Make sure the wire isn't contacting anything and see if you have spark now. If so, you may have a switch problem.

Sounds like the main concern you have is a hot coil not wiring issues. There are three main types of coils that find their way into the points based tractors, 1. THE CORRECT COIL = this coil has a"internal resistor" within the coil body that restricts the amount of current that flows thru the points and coil combo. The internal primary resistance of this type coil can be measured with an multimeter at about 3 - 4 ohms. If 12 volts powers a 4 ohm resistance, 3 amps flows and that equates to about 36 watts of power - warm but not hot. 2. INCORRECT COIL - REQUIRES EXTERNAL RESISTOR - this look alike is visually identical to the correct coil but its internal wiriing can overheat if an "external resistor" is not used in series with the coil. The primary resistance of this coil will be in the 1 - 2 ohm range. The external resistor accounts for another 2 ohms. Properly configured, this combo is the equivalent of the 4 ohm internal resistor coil discussed above. If this coil is used alone, the electrical system will see the lower resistance and double the current flowing thru the coil and points. The result is over-heating the coil and premature erroding away the point's contacts. 12 volts powering a 1.5 ohm circuit equals 8 amps of current flowing and generating nearly 100 watts of heat and energy. We are now seeing the coil get hot. 3. ELECTRONIC IGNITION COILS - these are the high energy bad boys of the ignition world and demand gigantic gulps of current to operate as intended. They will fry points within minutes. The primary resistance of this style coil is usually well under 1 ohm and current draw can be near 20 amps. These coils are fine if you drive them with electronic ignition modules. They will fry GT wiring very quicky. 20 amps of current flowing thru this circuit generates over 200 watts of power. Wires melt, points vaporize. Measure your prmary ignition coil resistance. Anything less than 3 ohms and you have either a shorted coil or an incorrect coil on the tractor. A correct coil should be labeled "12 volts" . If you see "external resistor required" on the coil or the coil looks like it came out of a spaceship, you have the wrong coil.

If you are using NAPA.....yes on the 1410.....as Craig said.... Geno...never heard of using that filter on this forum and I have read a lot on hydros....looks like a regular oil filter to me instead of a hydraulic filter.....

Geno, one of the great features in the software this site uses is the "IGNORE" feature. If you consistently find posted content of certain members to be trivial, vapid or downright incorrect or misleading, you can digitally ignore their posts. It's like that commercial with the yahoo that advertises Prilosec "why wait for the heartburn, treat it before it starts." Speaking for myself only, I see too many "old enthusiam" members have already stopped posting or contributing due to the ocean of "non-content" posts they now expect to see whenever they visit. Hopefully your "new enthusiam" and beneficial content will eventually make you a greybeard on this site whose advice is sought after and not ignored. Before you hit POST, ask yourself if anyone in the future will ever purposefully try to search out your post to help them solve a problem they currently have. Many new members here will need help to further develope their appreciation of the hobby. Not everyone comes to the game just to watch and listen to the cheerleaders. . . Edit - correcting the speeling - always check your speeling.

Yep, I'm in Steve...bringing my trailer too.

Thanks for the info , I'll be careful !

Need I say more

Hey Digger...the first pic looks to be either a green or red chili pepper. The second pic does resemble the scotch bonnet, also known as a "scotty bon", which is a cousin to the habanero, so they will be hot! They are a Caribbean pepper...hope this helps! :-P

Jason...we are talking about the letters at the end of the spec number. Check out Section 9 page 1 in this link...you got me what is right...I do not know. It looks like they are calling the cam thingy an ACR also...just a different type before the balls. https://docs.google....MDNk/edit?pli=1

Not all K series engines have an ACR. The ACR came in around the late '60s. Prior to that they used a 2 piece cam that retarded timing to make them easier to start.

I will post a picture in my thread here:

There she is... And I just got another one... Oh my. This is getting out of control!

Two will do it as long as there aren't any other colors then red in there.