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The horse I put together by mixing parts from a 518h and 520hc has become a favorite of mine sense completion. now thanks to my sweetheart it has custom decails She contacted vinylguy and he did an excellent job on them!!!! great surprise, very nice quality, thanks to you both

Here's what the question is about by the way..... Ad is asking $500 If I read the ad right, I'd say that's priced pretty well. An RJ-58, with engine has a SPR-42 snow blade and a PP-8 plow with it, and there's two of something... ad says "one for parts and one complete". Seems like a good buy to me. I'd imagine there's already someone on the way to look at it/buy it.

GENO...don't stop posting...you are doing fine and I for one have been enjoying your contribution. Just so you know...there is an ignore function here on Red Square...I use it on a couple of guys and it works great.

being from kentucky gives you the right to be chatty, i know when i'm drinking bourbon i can't shut up!

GENO, when I first got on Red Square, I had some knowledge of engines (working in a "service station") back in the 60's. My Dad had these tractors and they had been sitting for about 20 years. When he passed, I decided to try to get them running again. I found Red Square and the good people on here, they helped me with whatever I needed...manuals, advice. I started going to shows to meet these guys, get parts and see what the love was all about. I have been going to the shows now for about 5 years all over the Midwest and the north east and have met very many of the members that are active on this site. What a ride!! One day I had to rebuild the trans in my 702...1533 bearing was shot. I found a place in transmissions where I started rebuilding them with videos...no one had done that before...and I was suddenly able to help and give back. I really feel like I am part of this site now. I still ask questions (I do not know everything), but there is no feeling like walking someone through rebuilding a transmission and saving a horse with someone who normally would have not even thought of opening one. I have truly been blessed here and I know it. Never feel like not posting in a thread if you have something to offer. It could be a question, that makes everyone think...it could be a thought that has not been presented...it could be the answer that the original guy was looking for...and you could get your "hooby dooby" stepped on also. Mine is pretty flat now. The nice thing about this site is, we all learn together and most are tolerant and willing to share what they have learned. Don't worry about your post count...it really does not mean much. Go to a couple of shows and meet some of the members...listen to what they have to say...that is what is important...the rest will come naturally. Welcome Aboard Mate.

Nah Geno you're fine. It's refreshing to see some new enthusiasm around here. The old enthusiasm was getting kinda boring.

I second what Jim said. Wait till winter rolls around and the forum activity slows to a crawl . Then we'll really need more of that enthusiasm!

This is a forum. Taking is what it's all about. Keep 'em coming.

Happy Birthday Megan. 17 years old today. While ill the entire time, at least you got to make it to the Wheel Horse Show again this year. Unfortunately the WHCC 2015 show won't happen for this clan, this 17 year old will be celebrating her High School Graduation that same weekend. Megan!

How about thoughts on what's inside. Pulled the head off last weekend. Pictured is what I found. Worth saving? or too badly damaged As I mentioned in previous post, flywheel turns freely, piston /valves go up and down - that doesn't mean much but it's something. What are the determining factors in deciding whether to fish or cut bait? I have no experience rebuilding an engine but I'm game if nothing else More pics required of bottom of engine, piston, crank? Also drained the oil - was pleasantly surprised to find at least 1/2 quart.

You know? I'm thinkin' what the Squonk says is making scents here... I thought it was weird that the back of the woodruff key(closest to the trans)was curling up, out of it's channel... as the hub was backing off it. Upon closer inspection, I can see a ball of grit in there that was pushing it up against the hub. I think if you look inside of the hub...the pict tells the whole story here. Also, interesting how wet the axle is vs. the dry appearance of the hub bore.

I do not have an answer, but i have several times been surprised how even after it starst to move it fights all the way off. Most gears/bearing etc. once they pop free come off easily....not so hubs.

heres the only pic i have and it was after the battle was won....... i did mine on the floor of the garage, trans apart from the frame as well, but it wasn't sitting on the tire though. now that would have been a challenge in itself.....

So that's why I haven't heard from you!!!!!

More seat time!

Welcome to the Site Geno I've been off a couple months so you haven't bothered me.. Oh and Chuck, I thought I would mention you misspelled develop.

Is a gorgeous ... can't wait to see it's new bling installed.

My decks all leave a strip in the turns. I just do a couple end run passes to clean it up when I'm finished.

I think my motor has died. It recently started running rough, and now it is at the point where it will bog down, and almost stall under load, or going up hill. I replace the air filter, and plug, which was full of carbon. I ran it some more, and it fouled again. When idling, it seems to miss , or pop. I don't think this is good. I don't know how to rebuild it, and not sure if anybody in the area does. I am starting to look now. Like auto shops these days, they just replace parts and don't rebuild. It has run for a long time with a hole in the muffler, so I am wondering if the exhaust valves are toast. One of the local shops said they would look at, at $72/hr labor, plus parts. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mike Tallahassee Florida

Didn't have a puller on hand, so I decided to give the old "use another hub" method a try today. Ended up cranking on it a for good twenty minutes, and sweating like a stuck pig, to ultimately get it to pull off. While it's no surprise to see it soaked in oil, as the leaky axle seal was the whole reason I wanted it removed in the first place... I am surprised at the amount of effort it took, using a cheater on my 1/2" drive, this thing fought to the bitter end... well past the key way to the very end of the axle. So, I'm wondering, is it normal, for the old accumulated oil to act like some kind of super adhesive glue in there, or could something else going on in there that I'm not aware of...using a woodruff key too big, or the key way wollowed out, maybe?

I'd like to see video of this baby in action!

I would not recommend beating on a hub,in or out,the retainer ring inside wont take much,i too have had hubs hold on till the end,so I made this homemade puller because I didn't have a spare hub,its a piece of 3/8 angle iron,and a 3/4 inch bolt and nut,welded the nut to it,drilled five holes that line up to the hub,tighten her up and put the torque to her,once it breake free I use the air gun the bolt is on backwards in the pic

According to Squonk what he says alway makes cents. Maybe he's right. I always work these things back and forth. If they move out some, I drive them back, lubricating it to death in the process. On the really bad ones I'll take emery cloth and clean the inside that gets exposed, drive it back, clean the outside, repeat, repeat. I guess it helps break stuff up and get some of it out of there or at least moved around and broken up.

Happy birthday! Neat story Bert. Please show us the pics when Morgan is done!

Quite a puller you have there, very nice.

steve, i thought that was the case with mine, but there was no evidence that the axle end was ever beat on. still had the machining markings from the factory and i checked the axle measurement when it was cleaned up (emory cloth and scotch brite) and no mushrooming. i think just the corrosion alone was what was holding mine, it wasn't much and didn't pit the metal, but it was enough to make me sweat.... the keyway that was exposed to the elements was also slightly rusty and had crap in there. maybe that was part of the issue as well, as the key had to slide all the way through there.....

Craig, i think what you experienced is par for the course with hubs that are tight on the axle and haven't been removed very much if at all through their life. better that way than loose on the axle..... the last one i did was for the 416 8 speed i just finished. i used much the same method as you (but with the later thicker hubs) and both sides fought me all the way for quite a few hours. i used mild heat, lots of pb blaster in both sides and through the set screw holes and slowly did it. every time i would get that hub loaded up with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn it would eventually move with a loud crack. it was slow going, but they finally came off in one piece and once the axle and hub were cleaned up and new keys installed, i had the two sweetest hub/axle combos in my collection.......

Now that's a Wheel Horse man blade!

Yeah, I think it's very fairly priced.

OK .. now I get it, Morgans are tough little horses.

That set screw should be an Allen head, 5/16-18 x 5/16, and the woodruff key is 3/16 x 3/4. If you have a Fastenal in the area, they should have what you need. Oops, looks like you are one step ahead of me.

The tip on the Harbor Freight HVLP gun is 1.4. That is what I use. And just a note about Majic paint from TSC. If Majic was the only paint available to me, I would let my tractor run naked. I have tried the stuff, and if you think Rustoleum dries slow, Majic is slower yet. I painted the engine block on my 857 with Majic just to keep it from rusting over the winter, and more than 30 days later, I picked it up to move it and my hands were covered with red paint. I stripped it all off and repainted with the PPG acrylic.

Don't know how many of you guys watched the Rutgers/Washington St. game last night. Rutgers won in a high scoring, back and forth game. I think Rutgers went to a bowl game last year...they are for real. I personally welcome any team to the Big Ten that can beat a Pac 12 team. It is going to be hard to pick the Rutgers games this year.

I see the idea behind that.....but I will stick to the application....hydraulic application = hydraulic filter......

The tips do mean everything. If you use a small tip for primer you will have big problems, it will actually try to dry before it hits the metal and not adhere. I've been painting for 37 years. Better get your gun in order before you do anything. Until you get the hang of what paint, primer, clear, etc should look like by the way it runs off of your mixing stick you should use a chart and mixing (measuring) cups.

Yep, I'm in Steve...bringing my trailer too.

As ".Mickey Gilley" says.. "talk to me"! Lol!

Need I say more

Wow that's great !! Our PP are really good, just tried them We got another batch coming on And wife is really into this now. She's got her eye on a sweet pickled Okra thing now with carrot strips in . We had about a gallon of okra to pick Today. Every 2 days or they re to big They going to ware us out I just got to go with some cherry peppers Next year. Whoop Hhoooo. Jim in texas

I do a lot of that, Racin'Bob. And it isn't just one deck. My 42" RD deck does it bad. Both my 42" SD and my 48" SD deck do this. The only deck that has minimum missed strips on turns is my 37" SD deck. I just love that little deck. It and the 48" deck give me the best cuts. All the decks are tuned, sharp and in good mechanical order.

And here we go again! Haha! The cherry peppers are doing unbelievable this year! Looks like I may one if not two good picks left! I love it!! :-)

Yes...it's Napa 1410. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Transmission-Oil-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL1410_0303851348

Well... technically... it's Mayo One... The Mayo Clinic's helicopter ambulances. They fly in every year on Saturday afternoon. Here's a different shot from a few years ago. one year they had just landed and had to fly again to respond to a crash.... they're pretty much always in the air around here.

Ah... I always figured those to be like a type code. Never seen anything published on those. Tecumseh used them for parts list revisions.... could be like that?

Jason...we are talking about the letters at the end of the spec number. Check out Section 9 page 1 in this link...you got me what is right...I do not know. It looks like they are calling the cam thingy an ACR also...just a different type before the balls. https://docs.google....MDNk/edit?pli=1

Don, it's more of a theory of mine but there's clearly about a 1/2'" space between the tips of the blade where they would meet. Maybe the turbulence gets some of it, I don't know. It's always to the inside of the turn. If you're turning to the right the center and right blade can be perpendicular to the grass 'exposing' the gap and missing the grass. The center and left blade would actually overlap a bit more. If you position all the blades straight side to side they overlap. All the above suggestions are great. A properly adjusted deck with sharp blades will minimize it. Whenever I can I either swing out over a mowed area and make a u-turn so I come back at the unmowed grass straight or, if I need to turn right, I mow just past the row and make a 270 degree turn to the left. Or just stop, back up and do the turn that way.

Steve, not 2 pages of all BS. I was quite serious when I said I get to pick my favorite team next week. Michigan will actually be playing their first real 'game'.

Two will do it as long as there aren't any other colors then red in there.