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Mike was not happy because he had a finicky Tecumseh...I am shown here trying to do an exorcism. Jason's Wheel Horse Weed Whacker Flight for Life Choper making their landing at the show. Ron had some interesting equipment in his collection. A few shots of the horses... This guy was interested in my 702...I let him take it for a ride. JoeBob... and finally...a few pictures of the group...

Got her back this AM, runs smooth and quiet. The noise was coming from an out of round crank. They attempted to get a smaller rod but said that the one needed was no longer available, so lapped the crank to the rod and that silenced the noises ( I can't afford a new crank). They also adjusted the governor and carb, all at no charge, however to show my appreciation I gave a generous tip. There will be very little touch up required, apparently they were very careful to leave as few scars as possible. I am completely satisfied.

It's a Stable if it's all Red and if you have any Green in there...it is a Petting Zoo. I think it looks like a 1964 (704)...could be a 654. Some pictures of the other side and knowing what engine is on it would help.

Ok. I must thank Steve first for reminding me. Thank you Steve. Secondly, do I list my picks like Steve asked or do I do it like Rob and others have? Hmmmm. I never like being told what to do so with that in mind.. Minnesota, WSU, MSU, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Northwestern, Purdue, Wisconsin, Indiana, Maryland, Michigan, Ohio State, Penn State. Steve, only because you reminded me!

Anyone else had this problem? The hydro drive belt tension rod seems to still be available but not the top plate, so I ran down the street and Scot made me some new parts. He's the bomb. The top plate is now 4 times as thick and stainless. Here are some pics of before and after, new parts are still in the rough here. He also now has the unavailable top plate in his CNC plasma cutter software so he can make one for anyone who needs one out of whatever material + thickness you want. He has the rod in there too and the Wheel Horse script of course in that style you see. Terry (Vinylguy) had a hand in helping with the correct writing style for the Wheel Horse lettering part, he's the best too.

So Im already on to number two. Going to pick up a new from Jake tonight. So how many 's do you need before you can call your garage a Stable?

Great year again at Pioneer Power... The big show's double features were "Classic Tractors" meaning anything made before 1970, and "Vintage Snowmobiles". I thought the turnout for regular tractors/gas engines was a little weak, perhaps due to no specific brand feature. The snowmobiles however filled the feature building and they had to find space for the overflow in adjacent buildings. I think I heard they were expecting 125, and by Friday morning there were already 160 with more showing up all day. The Wheel Horse turnout was pretty good. I never took an actual count, and we were definitely down a few from other years, but we still had a strong showing. It's been interesting to watch how our presence at the show these last 7 years has begun to really draw out other Garden Tractor exhibitors. There were a few Wheel Horse items on the auction... none of which came home with club members. Not that prices were unreasonable... just no one felt the need to own them. Reportedly the D-250 brough $650. Supposedly ran and drove in (don't they all, right?), didn't start at auction. Lawn Ranger brought short money, but no one was particularly interested in it. Likewise with the little dump cart. A few faces.... Joebob ol550 TerryM (and son Andrew) prondzy (and wife/daughter) and shynon Rest of show pics... good turnout of horses and attachments. A few others mixed in here.

Member posts are celebrated in 1K intervals here Geno... we'll see you in a couple weeks, OK?

Nah Geno you're fine. It's refreshing to see some new enthusiasm around here. The old enthusiasm was getting kinda boring.

Looks like someone is working on a new stable.

THAT MAKES SCENTS!!! OR IS IT SINCE OR CENTS! I HAVE NO IDEA!!!!!

For the sake of clarity, electrolysis is not defined as the process of derusting or cleaning metal. A similar mistake would be defining driving your car behind a gravel truck as a "paint striping process", although that would be one result of such an activity. The fact rusty iron "derusts" when used as a cathode material is just a happy consequence of using rusty iron as the interface material in the electrolysis bath. In backyard mechanics terms, the electrolysis process steals "extra" oxygen from "rust" so the rust no longer has an overabundance of oxygen which can be used to combine with additional iron to form additional rust. Clean iron electrodes will still allow electrolysis to occur. Any energy applied to the anode / cathode elements in the bath with a voltage applied in excess of 1 - 2 volts DC will break apart the oxygen / hydrogen bonds in the water bath the electrodes are in contact with.Try hooking a 1.5 volt AA cell up to a small electrolysis setup - you will see voltages at this level support the process, albeit much slower than a 12 volt battery charger. Aluminum can be used as an electrode but will suffer much faster "erosion" than iron. The fact the surface of the aluminum is being consumed, by default will release any material clinging to the surface of the released aluminum. In backyard terms, yes, the aluminum is being "cleaned". The destruction is not equal across the entire piece of aluminum and coked up areas will clean slower than non coked areas. The cleaning comes at the expense of uneven loss and pitting of the aluminum electrode (your engine head). Electrolysis as paint stripping process? Electrolysis results in derusting at an atomic level, that is why it works as effectively as it does. "Rust" is neutralized in nearly every pock mark, crevice and crack on the surface of the item in the bath. Given that paint is not an insulator at the atomic level, if you have enough patience to allow several days of exposure of your painted part to the electrolysis process, paint film pigment carriers will be broken at their interface with the metal piece and the paint will fall off the part in sheets. The only resistance to lifting the paint film I have encountered is when acid etch primers are used successfully in chemically bonding the primer to the metal surface. If you want to investigate paint stripping by electrolysis, hook up a battery desulfator to the electrolysis bath. The desulfator "kicks" 50+ amp electrical pulses thru the painted object several hundred times per second. Paint doesn't stand a chance against a desulfator treatment. Slow but effective. @ Racinbob - love your spirit of investigating new ways to accomplish things.Don't loose that spirit. @ Farmer Jim - clean your carbon deposits using mechanical methods, Break cleaner and wire brush. If break cleaner doesn't work, then try brake cleaner. Cleaning coke from heads is not a beauty contest.

I replaced my nylon bushing with a little bit bigger bronze bushing

There she is... And I just got another one... Oh my. This is getting out of control!

Hello, I need help figuring out what model of wheel horse this is. I got this from my father in-law with a blade. It's in rough shape and there is no identification on it anywhere. It has a kohler motor but that's all I know, everything else is worn off and no id plate. I am wanting to restore this with my daughter and need a manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I've attached a few pics.

Naw!!

WE can only hope....

Just another Update... The C-105 I brought home last night had a slight electrical issue.. Got that knocked out a she runs like a !!

The HD spindle kit that was offered had the Spindles in it and rims. The kit was to be used on a standard front axel. The spindles are 3/4. They are basicaly like the standard spindle except they have a brace welded on the bend to help keep it from flexing. They are just a tad longer because the rim is just a little wider to accept bigger bearings.

Gonna be soooooooo...nice.

Or as an alternative, try what I did - I "gave" my wife one of my 310-8's to play with. She's now adopted it and I can't get it away from her long enough to drive it myself! Duff

Scot just sent me the artwork. The Horse head square is 4' X 4'. The Wheel Horse writing is 4' wide also. The pic is how it will be placed on the floor of the trailer. It will be made from 1/4" steel and painted in sections before being put on the trailer. The trailer bed will be routed first so that the logo sits flush with the bed. I added color to one, the white area in the pic will actually be the Ivory color for the wheels.

Hope he's making more.

Well... technically... it's Mayo One... The Mayo Clinic's helicopter ambulances. They fly in every year on Saturday afternoon. Here's a different shot from a few years ago. one year they had just landed and had to fly again to respond to a crash.... they're pretty much always in the air around here.

Spent some time with Scot yesterday and we have the script for the Wheel Horse lettering all done and in the CNC plasma cutter. We cut out a few to see what they will be and they look great. They should look really good 4' wide. Thanks go out to Terry (Vinylguy) for his help with this too! Scott is sending me the file in a bit that will show the completed logo with the writing as it will be in the trailer floor when done, I'll post it when he sends it to me.

The letters on the model number mean different application type stuff... A=narrow block or special oil pan P=Pump Q=Quiet Line G=Generator R=Reduction Geared S=Electric starter T=Retractable starter I think there are a few others, those are just the ones that come to mind. And yes... TT probably knows them all.

Great pics Steve! If you had a claw hammer you could have fixed the Tecky! Was there a bus stop for the homeless there ?

I'm sure we'll meet at a show or more likely I may be close to you buying something... That's how I met Don in MD and Glenn in Jersey. Don't get too much like me or you're gonna have to build a bigger garage, much bigger.

km3h, I don't want to rain on your parade, but if you are going to put a FEL on that tractor you need to locate some HD spindles. You will bend the regular spindles very easily. As for putting the needle bearings in. It's a good idea. I did that and it did help somewhat. One of my bearings ended up being crushed. The weight was just too much for it. Maybe a bad bearing I don't know. Steering reduction is the way to go. But that can get costly. I am in the process now of converting over my 414 to steering reduction. I have operated tractors with FEL's both ways and I can tell you Steering reduction is the way to go. Those loaders put a lot of wear on the tractors. Like I said I don't want to rain on your parade here, but I would hate to see you ruin all that nice work your doing.

My pocket book and these Horses is the only thing kicking me lately[emoji14] Its worth it!

Your gonna need a bigger boa..I mean trailer.

Little humor for all the service guys. I am sure you have seen this, but it is still funny and I am Air Force..... http://www.grunt.com/corps/scuttlebutt/marine-corps-stories/marine-corps-humor-differences-in-the-military/ Rob

Come on guys. I don't really expect it to work. It just hit me that I wanted to see what might happen on an aluminum head I didn't care about. Stranger things have happened. The etank is off right now for the night but I'll give it some more time tomorrow and report back. Can't I have some fun with my stupid experiments?

I kind of thought the above pics were a little dark, so I decided to take a few more. Maybe this will help.

Sounds like a Briggs and Stratton engine. Post all the numbers of the engine's data decal. Garry

Well to be honest we never had to follow directions, just make sure we opened up a pathway for the ground pounders to follow. Directions were an option you used as discretion in the Air Force. THEY TRUSTED US to get the job done with as few casualties as possible. LOL :)

That's pretty common. The 701 fenders really stuck out at the back and many were flipped around so people didn't hit them when walking by. The 1962 fenders were more rounded off to eliminate this problem. Also... your rear wheels are on the wrong sides. Valve stems inside so they don't get knocked off. Should fix your width problem too.

I thought for sure that would have been the easiest way to read it.. Each one would print off so nicely on a single piece of paper.. (facepalm) dang-it! You mean your not supposed to use the little white pieces of paper that come with things to start camp fires... Dang it!! I knew I went wrong somewhere..

The e-tank, as has been described on this forum, is set up for rust removal from ferrous metals, and since heads are aluminum it will not work.

I wanted to make my 7000th post something interesting, and actually worth talking about. But then I said nope, I'm just going to pat myself on the back and look forward to the next 7000. Thanks to the powers that be for providing this great forum for me to bloviate.

The blades aren't keyed in a specific position. Moving straight ahead the blades overlap each other. Now position the center and one of the outer blades so the ends are at their closest and you see they miss by about 1/2". A product of the center blade being farther forward than the outside blades. Designed this way otherwise they would hit. Turning to about 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock positions the center and outer perpendicular to the grass and the gap is missed. It's always to the inside of the turn and easily cut on the next pass. As the blades wear it's magnified some. Kinda hard to explain.....at least this early in the morning.

Definitely talk to them and give them the chance to correct the issue. Who knows maybe they will give you a discount on your next service, or some new head gaskets.

I always liked those tractor metal seats, they have a vintage look and have an artistic side... I decided to put a little more work on it. Painted the base in mat black, under the seat in red and the seat in white with a little artistic touch

I can push 8+ inches with these With no problem at all

I went with this also on my K-301 several years ago. The point saver works great and David Kirk is a great guy to deal with.

Mike its simple electric 101... You turn on the switch ,A spark ignites the grass & then you have lights.... ....

I completely agree Chuck! I know first hand how much it takes to put on an event. There are many hidden costs to make the day a success. I am going to have to put out a donation jar at my show again this year to help cover insurance, disposables, port a potty, etc... I appreciate all of the time they put in to make Mentone a great event!

As I go to about a dozen shows a year,the $5 fee is way too low.This year I have paid between $15 Jones,MI and $170 Greenville,OH.Most are $25 to $50.This been said I will donate at least $25 plus something for the fund raiser.I don't want to see this great show disapear because of funding.I think we can help can all help Gene and Richard out by making a little bigger donation.It takes a lot of work to put this on ,lets show them our appreation.

This is a really nice show, great people and really great deals on parts. I plan on being there, with everything . . . Glen