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I have always wanted a John Deere 110 round fender. Some of you know that earlier this year, in a matter of weeks I bought two 1965, 110 round fenders. After looking both tractors over and driving them for a bit I decided that I really didn't care for the mechanicals of the John Deere. I also didn't like how the engine was placed inside the engine compartment and frame. I do however like their color combination, variable speed and styling. In the past month I've been approached by four different people to purchase their Wheelhorse tractor's. I purchased two of them but I decided I didn't need anymore in my heard because I already had eight or nine Wheel Horse plus the two John Deere. Even with a new barn I still only have so much time, space and money. Well I finally decided that I'm a Wheelhorse guy through and through (although I'm still looking for a nice Farmall Cub) and sold both John Deere tractors yesterday. Now I have the space and the money to pick up the rest of those tractors that were offered to me. So today I applied to get my Wheel a Horse Man Card back. A idea how long that will take? :-)

Had to pick a tractor for todays mowing Three little horses In a row All decked out Ready to mow Who do I choose For the task ahead It'll have to be Something Red With the 520 I know I'd have it made I can mow all day In the shade But I know the Onan Guzzles his gas So I think today He gets a pass We'll wait for winter When the north winds blow And see how you do In the drifting snow Now The little Tecky I know is the best But He's worked so hard He deserves a rest So today the Red Raider Must do it all For this job ahead HE GETS THE CALL

Hey fellas, dont forget my card. Is this the card where everytime time mrs scowels at a new tractor then the card gets a star punched into it? Glenn

Things are sorta backed up in the processing dept, but if the green ones are gone we will try to speed things up for you.

We challenged my daughter to read a bunch of books over the summer and told her if she did that we'd take her to Chicago to the museums. She made it, so we made the drive up there this weekend to visit the Field Museum and Musuem of Science and Industry. She really wanted to see Sue, the T-Rex on display at the Field Musuem: But there was one heck of a surprise in store for us. Now, Chicago is a big place with millions of people so I didn't expect to run into anyone we knew. Let alone someone from this forum... None other than Stevasuarus from Elgin was there! What are the chances?! Steve

Cobalt drills, pricey, hard to find, brittle as hell but effective. I fought one of those on a 655 for 2 days strait at work after hours I think I would up using other roll pins to finally beat it out. Was too hard to drill as the drill will always wander to the softer cast iron material even in a drill press and I could not get the frame in the mill or I would have one that. Also you can cut the shaft in the middle pull the two ends out press or drill the shaft out of the casting and make a new shaft. Did that on my Lawn Ranger

Welcome back from the Dark Side Dave.

I have had this happen here Clickable pic USA happened thru my ignorance needed i size smaller

well, the deck shell appears to be a 1960 RMR-32 deck. That's the only one I can think of that had the runners like that. There should be a little hole on the back side between the two flaps sticking up, that's where the lift rod connected. The stripped frame appears to be the matching Suburban that went with the deck... so I'd say either a 400/550. And the other frame looks to be like a 1962 something to me... so 502/552/702. I'd lean toward 502 by the shift decal placement and switch hole plug.

Here's a better offer.... I'll come pick it up, fix it, and bring it back to you. It may take 10-15 years, but I'll bring it back...I promise.

Can't wait to see and chat with some of you there! I have every intention of being there with my one and only WH.. Edit: I have 2 now!! Edit again: I have 3 now. Maybe four on Friday!

It only takes one to make you a real man.

I'm going out on a limb here and this is just my opinion, but i would think that the absolute best tires would be ROUND TIRES!!!!

I bought a HF about 4-5 years ago. I love the fact that I can blast small parts without having to set up outside with my pressure blaster which is way messier than the blast cabinet. Have no problems with leakage except when you open the door. I have two issues with the cabinet: First is the cheesy plastic glass covers, they don't last very long so you definitely need to get a extra package or two. Second is they need an internal baffle for the vacuum port. I tend to suck a lot of media through the vacuum so I made a cyclone dust collector that goes between my blaster and my vacuum so that any media I suck up drops into the cyclone. I also use allergen style vacuum bags along with the normal pleated filter in my vacuum. It prolongs the life of my pleated filter and helps to reduce or eliminate any blow-by. I also put a cart under mine. It makes it easier to move when I need access through my back door. A good water filterseparator is a must have at the cabinet, otherwise you're media will clog up.

Are you sure the pin has not sheared and the holes are no longer aligned. On the Raider clutch I just repaired, I could see some movement between the shaft and lever when I applied torque, so I knew the pin had sheared even though there was enough friction to operate the clutch. So I had to tap the shaft out, then remove the three pcs of pin. When I put it back together, I added a set screw and a second pin. This placing of the pin near the OD of the shaft increases the shear area and the strength 2-4 X

As mentioned above, I used a kit from TP Tools that supplies you with all the hardware. It came with plans to build the cabinet with plywood. I modified the plans to a larger unit. Cabinet measures 24" high, 30" deep and 60" wide.

I finally got a chance to rebuild a transmission with a hi/low mechanism. This is a 6 speed #5060 transmission with the 10 pinion limited slip differential. Notice the brake shaft comes out the hole closest to the axle housing. The 8 speeds brake shaft comes out of the cluster shaft hole. I did a series of videos for this thread along with some pictures. The videos are split up between different phases of rebuilding...ie...the differential, the hi/low shift mechanism, the rest of the gears 1 & 2 (my batteries died in the camera). Most of the information will be in the videos...be advised that I did some struggling while doing these videos and I left them as is because it is not always easy. Hope this helps you guys. correction... According to the manual the bolts that hold the differential together are in backwards in the video. The nuts should be on the input shaft side (right side) of the transmission. Sorry, I missed that. Just got the trans split. I use a 1" old wood chisel to start and then work the case apart with a pry bar. A couple shots after getting the case half off...trans is in neutral. The trans case works as a work bench for the differential...very cool Here is the reason the trans needed to be opened. An axle gear lost it's teeth and the pieces were lodged in the pinions. Finished and back together. The rest are the videos...1st on is the differential... Next 2 are dealing with the hi/low mechanism...1st one taking apart and the 2nd on putting together...be nice...it was my first time. Now, 2 videos putting the rest of the trans together...batteries died just before I finished the first video. Thanks for looking

So the tractor would not start, but I had just run it about 20 minutes before I parked it. The dash lights and gages turn on when I turn the key but it won't turn over (starter not engaging). I got on here and searched for the symptoms, and found a lot of people having issues with the 9 pin connector. Everyone's problems sounded familiar so I started to investigate the condition of my connector and found this: Not sure if this is the culprate, but according to the wiring diagram it looks like the cooked wire goes to the starter. Anyone replaced this connector?

Looks to me if you re route the exit chute, you could pretty much make the chipper a 3pt attachment and run a drive shaft strait from the d series pto to the chipper. It will need a little modification, but I'm sure You could do it

I got the thrust bearings from McMaster-Carr yesterday. They are very fast at filling and shipping an order. Had to try them to see how they would fit. Will have to grind .015 inches off the top of the axle in order to get the top washer and cotter pin in. That won't take long and if what I hear is true it will make the steering a lot smoother.

Nice plow... more garden, = less grass to mow.

Nothing ruins like a Deere.

I have replaced the entire connect with male and female insulated spade terminal Sta-Kons...It worked awesome and now I no longer have any worries about that fire hazard of a connector.

Power window motors work well for that application, that's what I use for my 2 stage chute.

Yep, links to our vendors.

The punch thing once filled up always means you get one free. That means after it's filled you get to bring another one home.

Yep, someone has been in there before me, doing a 20ft rattle can job at some point it's past. The other end of the shaft, I believe is welded to the idler pulley bracket. I'm this close to cutting in half, but a new American made punch set is already on it's way... patience is the key here, lot's of good ideas presented here that I'd like to give a try first. I'll let you know ultimately, what ends up working for me.

I bought this package with intentions of selling the 417 but after seeing what it is it became a keeper. Maxx is powered by a 454 30 over with World Merlin racing heads, long tube headers, a cam you can hear even with the fuel injection and many other improvements. Coupled with the 5 speed and posi the diesels don't stand a chance. The Escalade is no slouch though with a 403hp 6.2L and 6 speed automatic. Of course Maxx doesn't pass many gas stations either.

If you can find a small enough end mill that will get it out. Or you will have to drill out to the next biggest hole size. Sounds like your bit is getting inside the pin and wedging itself When I did my steering repair, the service bulletin had me drilling oversize right from the start so it went easy. Load that tractor on your truck and bring it here. I'll get it out or I know someone who will.

There's a lot to take in with all the models they made.

Awesome Ed! Better watch out with the Tecky comments, AMC is in here shhhhhhhhhh.

Craig; just wondering if you are the origional owner? If not, maybe someon had a brilliant idea and decided to use loctite, superglue or some other sort of bonding agent to keep the pin in tact. Rob

http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/wheel-horse-34520-lawn-tractor-9-pin-wiring-harness-connector-p-1508.html

I bet Ed is right about that pin being sheared. That puny pin would have a tough time bending even a cheapie punch. Or that roll pin could be bent in a sorta Z shape. When I replace the steering roll pins in my 704 I found that in the spindles. I was drilling them out for bigger pins anyway so it didn't matter.

As posted earlier on another post I had same problem..(same red wire)..did not replace the entire connector...with proper tool, I released the "pin" . removed it from the wire and installed a new "male pin" and pushed it back into the plastic body...pin is a stock item at Toro....cost 4 bucks!...the same pin is used on medical equipment and can probably be purchased at any electronic supply business The "female" connector was not damaged but Toro probably stocks it also. Lesson learned...should have looked at the 9 pin connector first, but all the shade tree mechanics convinced me that the starter relay is always the problem....NOT.... (note to self: sell my new relay to the first shade tree mechanic that stops by to see how things are going) I also replaced the black fuse block...found one at ORielly Auto Parts store with a plactic cover that covers the fuses...I moved it up higher and installed it just to the right of the battery....now it is easy to see and fuses stay clean..cost was less than 10 bucks. So for 15 bucks, the problem is solved...but I could have bought another Wheel Horse with the money that I might have spent on labor....lets see, if shop labor rate is 35 bucks/hour X 10 hours.....yep, thats about TWO horses!!! PS...good to see you found the problem....that 520H is one awsome tractor!

I am a very lucky guy, she loves the Horses and working on them.

Did you have to buy the wine for your wife before she would let you buy another one ! Nice find

No need... bring a coffee can. Chock full O'nuts!

Hey Nick, there's a lot of them on CL!

I would check the seat switch first. Then go to the PTO switch. From the info so far I would definitely lean towards the seat switch.

James, that horse is broke in the wrong kinda way! You probably need to tighten up the friction disc. If you have the manual, it explains how to do it.

Great videos Steve. Very informative and you know they say a pic is worth a thousand words but a video is worth much more. I have a question, do you use any kind of sealant on the trans gasket ? Thank you for the taking the time to make and share these videos. Many of us will benefit from them.

There are several grades of that muffler and prices vary Napa sells it Part # 7-03679. About $45.00 Very well made and I used one on my Power King. I have seen flimsier ones sold for more money

yep that's the one!! the new one chasing the old one, and heading down to Oklahoma with stuff for a tornado relief drive. I don't follow sports much, to many tractor and buckskinner things to do here. I'll let you guys play the big ten games and ill just root for the hawks

This vid? jwl, I hope you'll join us and make your picks this season.

OK Rick, that model just uses a spring which is good. Check out what Ed mentioned. Good advice and I've seen that as well. Disconnect the spring and see if there's any binding. Make sure the return spring is good. If in doubt, just replace it. They are still available. Just go through everything. It's a very simple setup. I suspect the problem will expose itself.

Here we go.. MINNESOTA WASHINGTON ST. MICHIGAN ST. YOUNGSTOWN ST. IOWA NEBRASKA CALIFORNIA WESTERN MICHIGAN WISCONSIN INDIANA MARYLAND MICHIGAN OHIO ST. PENN ST.

Reminds me of the day my barber found a wire imbedded in my ear. After she removed it, I remembered I was wire wheeling some wheels several days before. I never knew it was there, even after showering. Luckily she didn't think it was a course silver hair and ruin a $500 set of clippers trying to cut it off. Wear a full face shield over safety glasses when operating any grinder. Wires break off and stones explode.

I've owned all of the D-auto models at one time or another but only kept the 1973 18-Auto as my "collectable." So I'll toss my 2 cents in the fountain... I've never been overly impressed with the abilities of the D-autos compared to the C-series, but they certainly have their following. I always felt that they wanted for traction, especially when equipped with the floatation turf tires on the rear. I tried plowing snow with a 56" blade on my D160-K and didn't find it very satisfactory. On my D180 the snowthrower was so heavy on the front that even with wheel weights and extra ballast hanging on the hitch I couldn't get back up my driveway when the blower was lifted. Both tractors had weights and chains. They're also not particularly manueverable. They have a wide turning radius and slow steering that made them uncomfortable (for me) to use for mowing. I'm not sure if the available turning brakes improve this much. The engines used seem to put out obscene amounts of power, so you'll seldom overwork the engine on a D. The tractors were decent machines, but they did have some problems that years of (mis)use can highlight. For example, the early D's and all of the 18-Autos had 3/4" diameter front spindles. These were prone to breaking even without the added stress of front implements. Retrofits to 1" spindles and axles cured that. The steering boxes seem to get very loosy-goosey over time. The transmission itself seems to be a bit undersized for the tractor. The hydro used was also used on much smaller C-series tractors and seems more vulnerable to overheating and premature wear in the D-autos. Transmission temperature gauges were fitted after the 1974 revision and later a transmission cooling fan was added to help alleviate the heat. I think the size of the tractor and its big implements (like the 56" blade or the loader) set these things up for abuse. At some point, 1975 or 1976 I think, Wheel Horse added a pressure relief valve to the transmission bolted to the frame behind the left rear tire to help absorb spikes (and damage) from hard use. These improvements, I think, indicated that the hydro unit was a bit marginal for some applications. The divorced hydro pump and motor was actually, in my opinion, a brilliant idea. Why run a long shaft or belt from the engine to the transmission when a couple of pipes could do the same thing? Simple and effective. The differential bolts have already been mentioned. It's not terribly uncommon to find a tractor with a welded transaxle casing from one of these errant bolts getting pushed through the cast iron. Speaking of transaxles; in/around 1976 Wheel Horse relocated the parking brake control from a separate control on the dashboard to the Direction Control Lever (DCL). The DCL, then, had the obvious positions of Fwd-N-Reverse but also added a Park position accessed by pulling the DCL rearward into a separate slot near the Reverse position. The Park position engaged the parking pawl inside the transaxle (another weak spot). Anyway, apparently this reconfiguration caused problems with operators shifting into Park while still on the move which, of course, introduced the possibility of causing internal transaxle damage. One guy I talked to who has scrapped probably a couple hundred D-autos over the years said it could even cause the transaxle to drop out of the tractor if the loads were high enough and the traction was good enough. The Parking brake control was later moved back to the dashboard and the extra slot was filled with a bolt-on plate. Eventually, a contracting band on an external drum replaced the internal pawl on all Wheel Horse hydros including the D. But they did offer some big attachments and a lot of guys really like them. Strangely, the biggest belly deck ever offered was a 48" unit. But 60" and even a 72" rear mower (from Woods) was offered. The 72-incher is exceedingly rare and I've only ever known of one of them that Jim M had. 54" and 56" front blades, 50" mid blades, Ark 550 loaders, 48" thrower, and - of course - the backhoe attachments were offered. You can see that the dreams and plans for the D-autos were big. The 50" tiller is a brute. Early versions were actually 38" in width with optional extensions for the total 50" width. But be advised that the input gear tends to be a bit weak and the tiller should NEVER be used with the 3pt hitch set up to provide down pressure. It can overload the tiller and can lift the rear of the tractor enough to propel it forward with considerable and uncontrollable eagerness. The market was for "estate" owners and pretty much whomever now would be buying a Sub Compact Utility Tractor. They remained in the lineup a long time and must have acheived pretty good sales considering how expensive they were. 1973 marked the introduction of the series with the 18-Automatic. In 1974, the tractor was mildly changed (the dashboard changed to include more gauges, the parking brake lever moved from the "hump" to the dash, and the space under the hood grew taller by about an inch) and the D160 with a Kohler k341 single cylinder joined the lineup, the D180 with a Kohler k482 replaced the 18-Auto, and the D200 with a k532 was added. The D160K was a stripper tractor with no headlights, a simple seat, and smaller engine. The top line D200 was fully dressed with PTO/3pt/and turning brakes. D180's and D200's had a "suspension seat" mounted on a big spring and easily adjusted forward and aft. I think the seats themselves were different. And the D200 had a 5-gallon gas tank whereas the others were smaller. In 1978 (I think) the 16-kohler was dumped for the Onan 16 horse twin BF-something. The D180 was dropped. And the D200 soldiered on. I think eventually the 3pt was added as standard to all D's. Probably to use up parts or something. The C195 and D250 experiments and the end of the run for the D-autos put the nail in the coffin for WH dipping a toe in the larger tractor market. I too found implements hard to find, but 3pt/PTO attachments can be had if you look outside the WH family. The 2000 rpm rear PTO and the cat 0 hitch really became the standard for many garden tractors up through the 1980's or 1990's. Deere and Cub Cadet (probably others) offered 2000 rpm bush hogs, tillers, and finish mowers. The location of the PTO shaft itself was a bit goofy on some Cubs that might make their implements hard to interchange, but there is more out there than I first realized. The D250, on the other hand, is really wacky with a 1000 RPM PTO that spins in the opposite direction (CCW). The D-autos were GOOD tractors. But not great. The C-series were GREAT tractors. Wow, that's a lot of typing for 2 cents. Not necessarily much value though. Steve

I see great minds think alike, we both had matched sets. :dunno: