Leaderboard

I wanted to make my 7000th post something interesting, and actually worth talking about. But then I said nope, I'm just going to pat myself on the back and look forward to the next 7000. Thanks to the powers that be for providing this great forum for me to bloviate.

You won't find anything better than chains. Perhaps you should try rubber tire chains. http://www.rubbertirechains.com/ Several members have tried them. Hopefully they chime in.

Hey All, Well like the title says, I have acquired my first Wheel Horse. It is a 1974 C-100 with a plow. She is in pretty rough shape body wise, and a bit cold blooded, but once you get her warmed up she can plow as much snow as I can throw at here. I don't know a thing about tractors so please be easy on me. I plan on rebuilding the engine and cleaning up the body a bit. This is the first time I have took on a project like this, so I'm hoping some people on this forum can put up with my ignorance and help me out along the way. After all I am way out of my realm here, by day I am a Humidification product engineer. So my very first question to you folks is this: I have been lurking around the forums and google and I see all these, I hope Im saying this right, like "pulling tires" like big tractor tire treads. How do I get a set of those and how do I know what size I need? (there is my first ignorant question, sorry) So any help would be much appreciated... Thanks in advance AJ Oh I tried to upload a photo but it is way bigger than the 1MB limit. Any camera now days takes every picture at least triple that. Update: with pictures now (Thanks to my new supporter status). I will get better ones tonight as I just uncovered it this year. It was on the side of my garage, I know that is probably a sin in some of your eyes, but rest assured it is now going to be taken care like a new born baby!

I'm using these with 50# outside weights and 25# inside weights and no chains. I have a slight angle on my driveway and this combo works great! The tires are 4 ply (and only come that way) but I have found that a 2 ply turf will give the best traction (keep the air pressure low). They are 23 x 10.5's mounted on a pair of wide rims from a 520. Mike.......

Update on the black hood. Put the battery and starter back in and pulled the plug and cleaned and set the gap. Now to check for fire, If I suspect I will not have any fire, I just hook up my 70 year old HOMO SAPIEN volt meter and give her a crank. Seems there is always fire when I use this method of testing. After I finished my rendition of the chicken dance, I put the plug in and with a can of starter fluid in hand, I gave her another crank. She lit up and ran great if I hand fed the fuel. we have another runner. Now the fuel problem. Pulled the line into the carb and cranked... no fuel. Pulled the line into the fuel pump ... no fuel. Pulled the line off the tank valve.. no fuel. Blew the valve open with air and drained the tank. Now have good fuel to the fuel pump. Cranked over and no fuel from the pump. Replaced fuel pump with one that luckily did not sell at the big show. Good fuel now from the pump. Hooked up the line to the carb and cranked her ... she fired right up, ran 30 sec and died with fuel pouring out of the carb air intake. Now what would cause all this excess fuel. I gotta go for dinner .. I'll check back later to see how many Know what is causing this last problem. Yep, this Black Hood w/plastic fenders is starting look for an empty stall in the barn.

I know it's way ahead of time, but I got the fuel tank polished, and just had to sit it in place to see what it looks like!! Yippee!! Now, I have to store it for a few months without scratching it!!!

I think of it as you got to trade green to get red :)

Made up new receiver and hooked up trailer to check my work. Trailer raises and lowers fine, not enough to automatically detach but good just the same. I have a heavier duty hitch on my other 520 if I need to move something heavier. Cleat

Well guys I am back or at least this particular post is. Well its been a long eight months or so without college ball so its now time again to play ball. As we all know we need to keep this as clean, everyone here already knows this but reminders don't hurt. Bashing is to be Expected, but Not Personal!!!!! No Exceptions!!!!! You do Any Harm towards another person and you will be Removed (Yes, even me!!!!) <-- placed in Red by Admin's and Moderators. We are kind of hoping that we will have some guys that will stay in every week so they have the bragging rights for a year. There will be a weekly bragger but thats good for only a week. Hopefully some of you all will join the challenge for the season. I guess other than the picks need to be made by midnite the night before the first game of the week. Steveasaurus will post the games for us and will post starting time for the first game of the week. Anyone can join in. This is a fun thread, expected to remain that way!!! Thanks again, oh wait I almost forgot!!! Go Hawkeyes!!!

I have a lot of the parts cleaned up and waiting to be painted. This won't be a perfect restore like your Martin but it will give me the gumption to finish several other projects I have started and put aside. I have a Case 444 stripped and the frame is primed. Been sitting in the corner for a year. Also have the 417=A all but finished. Just needs to be put back together. By the way Martin I found the nylon bushings at Jack' Small Engines. The 5883 was $1.39 and the 5666 was $1.19. Ordered ten of each. They also had the big rubber grommet 106267 for $4.92 so I got two of those. I am still picking little pieces of the wire brush out of my skin. Have to wear an apron the next time I use it.

Where to start . Well, I'd say clean out 1/2 half of the garage and don't think about using it for the car again until next year. Take copious pictures of everything on the tractor. I mean everything. Each part, nut, bolt, pin, lever, rod, spring, wire, etc., etc. Then and only then, start taking it apart. The pictures will be your best friend when you start to put it back together.

Tubes it is Geno.

Can't wait to see what the glossy look looks like when it's done.

If it works I'm gonna put wanted ads all over the planet!!

This is for your wheel horse fever. And the dr. Says to me. Buy three sets of wheel horse hub caps go to bed and see you next week. So I took his advice and did just that. Let's see if it helps the fever. Glenn Ps. Momma won't notice three little boxes coming in the mail. Will she? Shhhhhhhh. Lights out. ZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzz

I just finished up outside. Had a pretty good day and accomplished a lot. I finished the steering pedestal. I am going for the glossy look on this one. Don't know if you noticed but there are two Wheel Horse frames hanging in this picture. One is from my 417-A and will probably be next. Next is the top of the pedestal. Got primer but ran out of black paint. Finish it tomorrow. I may cheat a bit here and use the hood and rear fender from the 417-A, which I already have painted. I was able to get a chrome heat shield for the muffler on EBay for $25.00 and it should b e here tomorrow. Now all I need is a new set of tires. Need to wait a bit. Been going through money like rain water on this stuff lately.

Wellcome to the craziness. NICE 1ST TRACTOR. You will soon find out what I mean. Lol Thanks for the pics and best of luck. Glenn

I put this hitch together to make use of the rear lift installed on this tractor for the rototiller. Since the tiller is only on for a short period of time I figured I might as well make use of it to move my utility trailer around the yard and be able to hook up by just backing under it and lifting until the ball engages. Wheel horse lift hitch plans.pdf Cleat

Thanks for being a part of this forum and sharing your knowledge Bob.....you've been a great help to many! Mike............

Very nice work there.

Glad to have you aboard. You can use a simple editing program to make your picture smaller, or if you plan on staying around, become a supporter. Lot's of perks are afforded you, among which is picture size. I am not a pulling guy, so I too will let others respond to the tire question. As far as the engine rebuild, the K241 is a very dependable engine. Rebuilding is relatively easy, however, a reasonable amount of mechanical skill is necessary, as well as some good basic shop tools, a place to work, and a good reliable machine shop handy for taking measurements, and machining as necessary.

Welcome! Get that picture size sorted out! We love pictures! From what I have learned on here is the tires you are looking for can be had at miller tire website. Im not sure on your model but I would guess a 23x10.50x12 would fit nice. But let some other give some input too.

So today started good. I got the dash pedestal cleaned up and ready for paint. Wish I had a sandblasting cabinet. Used a grinder and a wire brush Also used a drill and brush. Took some time but it came out good. The inside was a bear to get clean but I managed to get it done. Now a nice coat of primer and then some sanding and paint. Before After Going back outside in a while and do some more.

I've recently refinished the hoods on my 2 black hoods and I used satin black. I don't believe the factory used gloss, but I could be wrong. I wrestled with this decision, I pretty sure that they didn't use flat, but I wasn't sure on gloss vs. satin. In any case I am pleased with how they came out. C-85

ok, no fair, you are banned from posting anything else! Actually we will all want to see a video this winter of that monster pilling up the snow. Rob

Rick, If you do end up taking the clutch shaft /lever apart, below is an alteration I do to all shaft pins. Depending on the shaft and pin dia., this will increase the pin shear area and strength 2-4 x. One caution....If the pin is designed to shear at a specific torque to protect other components, do not add this pin.

Mike, the 416 runs great!!! Transmission shifts nicely and the gears are quiet too. The mowing deck has the factory reinforcing bar, and the spindles are quiet. The only extra noise I have noticed is one of the pulleys on the mule drive needs to have a little oil worked into it. Thank you for asking:)

I'll get to use this lt85a agco at work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take your time Steve PLEASE!!!!!!! dont forget to bring the book? the ( YOUR MY FAVORITE) one

Ill be using the 312-8 as I do for everything! Ill be using the 312-8 as I do for everything!

The hole on the PTO side of the grill was for an idler pulley (part #: 4794)used on the ST-374 snowblower.

Glen, the only prescription for the fever is MORE COWBELL!!!

I get to use a shovel at work. I'd love to get my hands on a cheap short frame tractor and plow and leave it there. i 'd fill the tires and chain it up. 8 hrs. on a tractor beats 4 hrs. of shoveling!

Very nice Van. They seem to be in pretty good shape. How do they run? I like'em! Thanks for sharing.

If I manage to scrounge up a winter cab. The deal will be sealed. NO SNOW! Glenn

if you want to spend the time and save some money, mcmaster carr and similar places have the plastic bushings. i could never be bothered to sit there and measure out what was needed, but I'm sure if somebody wanted to spend the time and cross reference it, i would be sure to steal all the part numbers if they were posted......

davenport, you just have to look look look and look. till your sick of looking. I have a friend grew up in Clarence, Iowa, are you any where near it? just curious.. Oh, and another tip, put FREE ADDS in your local craigslist, to all the craigslist areas that you are willing to travel to. Best of luck. Glenn

Initially, I didn't go for them either Ed... but they have a way of growing on you. My black hood has become one of my all time favorites now.

Now don't let this get out Richie.......I keep a pot of oatmeal cooking on the F-150s manifold. They can't resist that oaty aroma.

Any special bait you use to trick them to get on the trailer? No wonder we cant find any down here......you and Geno are taking them home.

heres a good one for carlisle.... http://www.carlisletirestore.com select the style of tire and they have a chart listing mounted diameter, make sure the wheel size is comparable to what they list mounted, (width etc)

Don't say that lol I'm done with summer lets get to fall and winter but lets not have sub zero temps like last year.

Thanks, I will have a look. I used the acid/scotchbrite technique, just finished in fact, I was amazed with the results.

Dont scrape anything...... Get some muriatic acid. Apply it only with a Q tip to the aluminum in a well ventilated area. Keep wiping it off and adding more. You only need a little. I would not soak it. It creates extremely strong fumes so you do not want to breath it in. Do this OUTSIDE!! Wipe some oil or grease on all the machined surfaces of the crank because the fumes will instantly start to rust any surface near it. Take your time. If you see black , its still aluminum. Keep going till you dont see any fizzing anymore. You must nuetralize all the acid after you feel you got all the aluminum off. I dunk the crank in water in a bucket with a cup or so of baking soda to make the water alkaline. Then rinse with the hose some more.Then lightly polish with green scotchbright pad cut in strips with some oil as a lubricant. Finally oil the whole thing well and stick it in a bag till your ready to use it. PS For future reference ... never order parts till you have everything all measured either by you or your local machine shop. They usually do it for free...... Your doing good and glad you took the time to tear into it and not throw away.

Hmmmm...I vote moons or the bottom right since it's a 50's era. Just my I like Cragars on something more like a cherry red 69 Chevelle 396 or like my old 69 Nova

How about this one. He wants $800.00. It has been posted for months and he also has put it on EBay. Describes it a good runner. Says he cut grass with it this year but looks like it is buried in last falls leaves.

Tag Team!!! Nice.

A great bit of 'red neck tech' there coldone - for me it's answered where to get the hardened steel to make a tool in the style of the drag link bit used by Jack. Unfortunately I damaged the slot in an attempt to use an impact wrench so my thoughts were running along these lines. Paul sent me a spare end cap screw so now I should be able to make a tool and pray! Re the hydro - Unfortunately the various Sundstrand manuals contain different content but I have one that has a detailed description of how the relief circuits work which together with the diags showing states in neutral, forward and reverse found in all versions of the manual perhaps give a reasonable understanding. As far as I can make out..... the charge relief valve remains shut until the charge pressure reaches somewhere in the 70 -150 psi range. The pressure generated by the main pump is fed to the hydro drive pump only until the valve starts relieving at which point it alows oil to bypass through the implement control circuit. It passes through the implement control valve assembly and back into the system to return to the reservoir. It's a critical feature of the desgn that the implement control valves be the type that alows an open flow through them in the 'neutral' position. It this pathway is partially blocked for any reason the charge pressure will be higher than it should be for normal operation. A dysfunctional D high pressure problem could relate to this. I have come across a hydraulic hose in the past where the rubber had swolen internally reducing the bore down to a very fine hole which fluid would still pass through at high pressure. When an implelent valve lever is operated this bypass flow is directed to a ram moving it until it reaches the end and there's nowhere for the oil to go. At this point pressure in the whole system rises rapidly to the 500 -700 psi range at which point the implement relief valve opens alowing oil to bypass the implement circuit and return to the reservoir. The motion drive circuit between hydro pump and hydro motor is effectively a sealed circuit but both do leak some high pressure oil by design hence the need for the charge pump that replaces these losses. If for some reason the loss has gone off the scale that the charge pump can cope with then along with the charge relief valve not seating correctly then this could also account for low pressure dysfunctionality. That's about the best explanation I can give. I'm sure Paul will chip in if I've got anything wrong here. If anybody with a dysfuctional D wants a copy of the Manual that has a pretty detailed explanation in it send me a pm with your email and I'll forward the pdf file. Andy