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Well the story continues, revenge has been served. Yesterday I had to visit the big box store that my neighbor bought his tractor from. As I got into the lawn and garden area I heard someone raising there voice with one of the sales associates. Wouldn't you know it, there was m y neighbor raising heck with the sales associate. I had an idea what he was upset about. I continued to look what I came in for then ventured back over to the lawn and garden area. While I was checking out some other stuff the associate came over to ask if I needed help. Well I could not help myself I had to mention I noticed he had a up set customer. He chuckled and said yeah. He told me that the guy had come in wanting to return his lawn tractor because trying to pull a heavy roller thru some new landscaping up and down his lawn he blew the transmission out of it. The sales guy was trying to point out to him that it says right in the manual it does not recommend pulling a roller as it puts too much strain on the transmission. So revenge has been served, I thought about driving the Ol' C-145 down there pulling my big roller but no since in throwing gas on the fire. I will bet he won't stop by again.

Well, here is what has worked for me, in the past. Casually take your horse for a stroll, down the street, to his house. Make like you are thinking about purchasing one of those POS's. Put yours along side of his. Ask him all kinds of questions about his vs. yours. Look it over real good, usually about this time, I spring the final question. Do you mind if we test their HP strength? I have never had anyone turn this opportunity down. They are usually so pumped about all the questions and now, "he can really prove to ME" just how much a POS it is. Course he has no idea that just becasue his has 26hp and only weighs in at 480lbslbs. that 26hp LT/POS will be in for the fight of it's life against your's that is nearly double that in weight, but only 14hp. Once you pull him backwards, and probably hear something snap in his transmission, you can just sit their, smile and say whatever comes to your mind at that time....

In my quest to find a 1045 that I could afford. I bought this 1257 and rebuilt motor/ starter generator and removed fender pan and installed tool box with round hood fenders, 8 speed trans. Little oil on the tins. This is my 1045/1257. I like how it turned out. Thanks for looking Tom

416-8 used for digging and moving dirt 418-C and 2 stage blower for snow removal 654 for pushing snow and dirt 855 for mowing and a bunch of little round hoods for cruising around the engine shows

Was another fine day today.

That is too funny!..... Perfect..... I don't know but I think I'd have to pour jusssst a little bit of salt on that wound.

Thats not a V8, thats the starter for the other two engines, lol. What a machine.

hauling people and everything i can (seat moves up and down with 3 point) dragging dragging driveway and green tractors.

It's funny because when AMC and Munn owned Wheelhorse, nobody called them AMC/Wheelhorse or Munn/Wheelhorse. Here is how I see it...........If it has the Wheelhorse brand on the tractor, it's a Wheelhorse, period. If it's a continuation of a WH model even if it doesn't say Wheelhorse on it, it's still a Wheelhorse. None of my tractors built during the Toro age are referred as Toro's. They aren't. They are true Wheelhorses or Toro/Wheelhorse if you wish. . To Cocky-Rocky.............If it wasn't for Toro and their marketing and management at the time, we wouldn't have many tractors to use or collect. They could have shut the line down and cranked out cheap imitations of both the garden tractor and lawn tractor lines calling them anything they wanted! But they didn't! They manufactured what were in essence, true over-built, over-engineered, heavy Wheelhorse tractors. The garden tractor line accepted the same WH implements as far back as the late 1960's for 16 more years ending in 2001 in one form or another and all this during a shift in society for cheaper, throw away when they wear out equipment. They even created what many consider bigger, better versions of the WH designs with the Xi Garden Tractors until 2005. They even kept the parts for the older tractors and those they continued to manufacture available for a long time. Just imagine if if MTD had bought them out. I owned a 1975 HD Sportster that I traded even up for my 1980's C-175 with a deck and a plow. As you said, AMF kept HD afloat but destroyed their reputation for quality. Toro kept WH going and did it without much sacrifice on quality at all. My 310-8, 416-8 and 520-H are Wheelhorses. Your 267H was designed by Toro but influenced by Wheelhorse. Look at that tractor and how heavy it is built verses what you would buy now for a similar lawn tractor. You have every right to call it a Wheelhorse. Because it is.

As promised, more photos.

What Bob said...Thanks for letting us know. Glad you found and fixed the problem.

Glad you found the problem. Thanks for letting us know what the resolution was. It is always helpful to others who may have the same or similar situation.

Im glad some people feel like that. Leaves more for us.

I can't imagine one good reason why... you stopped that gorgeous to entertain his nonsense in the first place. .

So I finally got around to taking a couple of pictures of my new 603. This was a one owner tractor I picked up in Bay City, MI. Has both deck and push blade in very good condition. The gentleman that owned this lived on a small city lot and took very good care of it. I haven't had a chance yet to look it over or try to get it running yet. Here's a few pictures.

I put this hitch together to make use of the rear lift installed on this tractor for the rototiller. Since the tiller is only on for a short period of time I figured I might as well make use of it to move my utility trailer around the yard and be able to hook up by just backing under it and lifting until the ball engages. Wheel horse lift hitch plans.pdf Cleat

More pics!!

And it was free gonna mod it to fit my 654 I recently bought

If you have the adjustable tie rods, you can order new ends off eBay, McMaster & Carr, Amazon etc. If you have the non-adjustable tie rods, you can use a punch and hammer to tap around the ball socket to tighten it up.

Some people don't deserve a classic WH. If you don't know why they are better, you will never get it. Others live in a throw away world and do not understand or have the "Knack"! The Knack

Thanks pal ! It's sitting on jack stands (front only) with the front wheels still on, parking brake on, rear wheels chocked, in park in a level garage! It's sitting on the stands only to get the oil pan off, then it comes down again since I can work under the Jeep without it being hoisted up.

Karl, please be careful under there and use any and all safety precautions. There can't be enough overkill when it comes to your safety.

I always use stripper myself and it takes a lot less time and elbow grease that way and if you have a pressure washer, it will take most of the paint off. After I get it down like you did I usually sand blast that rust or just spray it with rust converter and primer before I paint it. I guess you could use some kind of acid to remove the rust or maybe toilet bowl cleaner. I can hear the laughter now but have you ever tried it? As far as scrapers are concerned, I bought a set of plastic scrapers at HF a while back just for that purpose. They won't scratch the metal.

Glad I read through this. You may have just given me the solution for the same problem

Jason, Terry sure is going to Pioneer Power with a Wheel Horse plow, going to turn some dirt. Any takers? Mike paint is burning off on the bottom. Tom

http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1079-rural-pastimes-day-1-picts/#entry10614 Take a look here, even some wheel horse stuff too

A little farther back would be great. I think I am looking at the deeper half of case of your trans. This would make that threw bearing where your break shaft come out. That mark may just have been a milling mark from the factory and is not an issue. If you have 1 1/8" axles...you want the KOYO B-1816 and the seal SKF 11050. These are available from Motion Industries or from NAPA. I just bought these from Motion Ind a few weeks ago...the B-1816 was $11.70 for 2 of them and the seals were $5.06 for 2. The TORO 1526 was changed to TORO 9416, but you will pay much more buying them from TORO. What you want to buy from TORO is the gasket you will need between the case halves...TORO #3912...just paid $5.13 for that. It is possible you have 1" axles in an 8 speed trans...you need to check that. Also check the diameter of your brake shaft and input shaft to get the right seals for those. If the input shaft is 5/8" you need seal SKF 6105. If the brake shaft is 3/4" you need seal SKF 7410. If your brake shaft is 1" you need seal SKF 9815.

Yes, this sounds like something I have done before, believe it or not, with r/c cars. 1/10 scale axel pins held by set screws definitely benefit from a small notch where the set screw sits. I like it. I'm gonna try this fix since it won't cost anything. I'm flat broke...

That is one of the best stories I've heard about the new "homogenized" lawn tractors. I would go over there and pull his roller...laughing the whole time. Now He'll probably buy a

Your neighbor sounds like a typical blowhard to me.

I am on vacation in Arizona myself as I write this. My wife and I have been gone a week. Started last Sunday making our way to the Grand Canyon. Then south to Sedona, then to Phoenix. Saw a pre-season AZ Cardinals football game last night where they whopped the Texans. Today we'll drop south to Tucson then over to Carlsbad to dwell in the caves before heading to the Midland-Odessa area to see some friends. I'd live here in a heartbeat if the occasion presented itself

km3h, No sir, I have not tried any of the above suggestions yet, it's all on hold until tomorrow. I will try the jumper to the solenoid first, and take it from there. The entire tractor has been restored, engine rebuilt, trans gone into and repaired, everything was removed and either replaced or refurbished. The wiring was a mess when I got it, I have another post here concerning the wiring harness. I removed all wiring and started all over again, doing it all myself (that could be the problem ) . Pictures are posted of the tractor in the restorations section, with questions about the fuel pump. I have checked and re-checked the wiring, using the wiring diagram for this machine and all seems to be well. I did paint all parts, starter and other electrical, but removed paint everywhere they make contact with other metal parts, and used tooth washers where I could, for better contact. I will start here tomorrow and keep you posted. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

mine run in???? maybe we could get them together and the two of them can find a nuetral and stay put. ha

So they would become a set of dedicated winter tires then right? Of would you back em all out in the spring? Mike...........

If your going to get a carb, get it from the US instead of one direct from China. Even if it costs more. Otherwise you may be in for a long wait.

You can also weld the bracket back together and it will work fine. Done it many times.

I consider my 1989 520-H a Wheel Horse product. It was in 1990 that they began to be branded as Toro Wheel Horse, like my 1990 520-H. The tractors produced from 1974 - 1982 were built when Wheel Horse was a subsidiary of AMC, and 1982 - 1986 produced as a subsidiary of Munn Investment Group. They were never AMC's or Munn's. Wheel Horse was a subsidiary of Toro, as well at least in 1990. I have both a 1989 Brochure and a 1990 brochure. Both state a subsidiary using the South Bend address - and were printed in South Bend as well. My . 1989 Rear Panel: 1990 Rear Panel:

more of the Hoover Dam...... upstream..... thats all i have, I'm sure thats way too many for some of you, but i thought these pics might be of interest....... thanks for looking! i had some more pan shots but for some reason they won't upload using the standard pic method. i might try the photo bucket way to upload.

It turned out the belt guard was bent up we fixed it and now it works perfectly! Thanks for all the helpful answers.

hehe, made me laugh, i recently saw a transmission/rear axle off of one of those tupperware machines, left axle twisted and broke clean off. my horse survived being upside down in a ditch 2 times don't see that happening with one of the new "tractors" you'll lose all your tupper ware Koen

Why not just 'Pin it' so it stays at the top where it deserves to be placed? . Hi Lars

Wait until something is wrong with it and what it costs to fix it...if they can fix it. Wheel Horse was just made for all of us "Shade Tree Mechanics".

Ok here is the plan when this one he bought dies next year or year after tell him you sure are glad you have that Stone Age tractor and ask him how much he wasted on the one he just had to replace

Atleast you dont have to pull the flywheel off and change the module. What a pain in the dupa. I would change a coil any day over the module ,but on the plus side .You get to clean off them cooling fins when you do a module. Look into a 12 volt harley coil in the 3 to 5 ohm rating. Many have done this with success. Both harleys and Onan fire both plugs at the same time. Much cheaper than the Onan. I believe Martin may have a part number for you if my memory serves me correctly. Good luck

Its a TORO. Anything produced after 1986 (or maybe its 1987) is a TORO product. TORO used the Wheel Horse name on lots of tractors because of the excellent reputation the WH name had. Mike...........

May have been a 800 special they used that trans and style hood Correction the A90 used that hood, and trans, the 800 special used that trans but the newer hood, both had starter/gen 8 hp briggs

I took the engine to a machine shop and it looks like the block is OK. I plan to have the cylinder re-bored and re-grind the valve seats. I do have to completely break down the engine and I am having difficulty getting the flywheel off on side and the belt pulley on the other. Any hints? When I get it back I will install a rebuild kit and hope for the best.

I made this post to show you the final result of the front lights. I tried to respect it as was the original one. To finish definitely the restoration just missing tail light and decals. These would be the last step.

I would say that most of the problems with the techy carb and cleaning it and still not running right is the fact that you can not get to the place the carb clogs up just taking it apart and soaking it will not clean the low speed passage which is the place 90% of them clog up you have to remove a brass plug from the carb body to gain access there is a small metal rod in this passage also.with the bass plug removed you can get the metal rod out and use a pipe cleaner and spray carb cleaner on the passage way to clean it a fast check to tell if you have a clogged low speed passage is with the carb off the tractor remove the jets, bowl ,float, needle hold the carb body next you your ear and shake it up and down you should hear a clink of the small metal rod moving back and forth in it's passage way if it does not the passage way is clogged up Brian