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I have been using my beat up old 633 the last month to move my car hauler around when I need it. I bought the 633 a few years back and took the K141 motor off because I didn't want to wear it out in case I ever decided to restore it...I put a 5 HP Tec motor on it that I had laying around. A few weeks ago the carb was really acting up so I took a chance and bought one of those $25.00 Chinese carbs that are being sold on ebay. I put in on and was really surprised how well it made the old motor run ! I went outside this afternoon to cut the grass and thought why not use the tractor ? My lawn is really small and to use a tractor is kinda silly...but I figured I would try it and see if the carb was up to some hard work. I wish I took a before pic... I'm really happy with the way it came out ! BT

"Man insults mower by comparing it to his Wheel Horse, mower punches him in mouth. More on this story at 6:00" What a news story.

Still More. Will post some of back end work I did last week. john

O.K. more pics. She looks a bit odd all covered in WD40. The frame forward of engine cleaned up nicely. Actually ended up doing hood Had trouble uploading images on last post so I'll try again

Here are a couple pictures of the original 953 Wheel Horse steering wheel. You do not see many of these original steering wheels still on a 953. I do not believe they used this steering wheel on all the 953's as I have seen too many 953's with the later 1054 type wheel with the rounded cap/logo insert. Glenn Pettit has a boat steering wheel in white just like this one. Last year I gave Glen my 953 steering wheel insert to use (the diamond shaped one was made out of brass and painted matte black and had a dimond shaped logo decal on it in the center which Terry Dennis has already made up too) to make a mockup plastic insert for use as a replacement for any folks that have this diamond shaped steering wheel but no insert on their 953.

950 is a pipe dream. The hrs. aren't exactly low, the seat is toast (at least 150 bucks for the correct seat) If you do need to replace the tires there is 300 right there. All of the attachments need work (blade missing some parts) and they are kinda crusty looking. I wouldn't offer 650 for it, especially if I don't NEED it. I won't say its not worth 650 but I'd want a better deal than that to get me to pull the trigger. JMO.

Went to yardsales as usual this weekend. Was at one talking to the guy and my wife came over to me and said there was a Wheel Horse over by the garage. So kinda jokingly I said to the owner "How much for the Wheel Horse". (I hadn't even seen it) He said "What Wheel Horse?". I said "The one over by the garage." Well, I came home with it. I paid him and loaded the van. It's not perfect. He was replacing the engine. The intake elbow is missing. The rear axle is model #90-2046. He has the correct rear hubs someplace. I didn't see the PTO any place. No seat. He gave me all the extra parts in the pic. A "K301S" with a gear on the shaft. The 15" wheels. A starter generator. The carb and air filter are there. So .... should I fix it up? Nothing is known about the replaced rear axle. I'm leaning toward putting it back together. If he has the hubs and I can find an intake elbow it will be well on the way to recovery. I don't have much in it at this point. Here's the pics. I became a supporter today just to make it easier to share the photos. Thanks, Joe

I know where there WAS a tire garage that used the ether method on a big truck tire....Notice I said "was", as in it burnt to the ground while trying to seat a tire!

Bob, I just reread this post and reread what Sparky wrote. I compared that with the prices that I see here in Western NY and I find myself agreeing with those prices. If I really wanted it, I would offer $700 just to get it. If I "just wanted" it and didn't care if he said no, I would lower my offer to $500. Like Van also said, $600 would be fair to all. I agree with that. I am not into screwing people over just to get the cheapest price for myself.

Bob, any decision yet? The more I read, the more my original guess price is dropping. Now I find myself in the 500. dollar range also. I cleaned my glasses and revisited the pictures. Glenn just sayin

Mowed this evening, and as is my habit, I hosed down both the push mower, and the 312-8. As I was was hosing the underside of the el cheapo Poulon Pro push mower (I hate this thing), I shifted my hand from the second cross-bar of the handle, to the first. Unfortunately, I missed the handle, and grasped the brake/kill lever instead. Damned thing popped out of the holes in the handle, and allowed the entire mower handle to smash me in the mouth. Got one helluva fat lip. To keep this topic on Wheel Horses, my 312-8 has never given me a fat lip.

So now I'm a RS Supporter. As soon as my profile gets updated I'll post more pics Hmmm a 50's setting eh? (we really do say "eh" a lot) I may be able to come up with something John

Around here anyway. Been looking to buy a small utility trailer to haul my 312 back and forth to my property out in the sticks. Putting it in the truck, removing and reinstalling the deck, and the interminable drive back and forth just isn't cutting it. I figured that I could finish putting a hitch on the Grand Cherokee, get a nice utility trailer, and haul the tractor in style, and in air-conditioned comfort. That is, until I saw what most folks want for a trailer. Unless you want a hacked up POS, any trailer you aren't ashamed to put in your drive will cost you around $600 and above. Being that I am as tight as the bark on a tree (having 5 kids will do that to you), I have decided to go another route. I figured, what the hell!, get another Horse. For $500 or less, I have found several Horses for sale that can be used at either my place here in town, or out in the country. I will just keep a tractor at both places, and cut down on the hours used on both. This solution does several things: completely removes the onerous process of transporting a tractor 100 miles every week, cuts down on the work hours of my one tractor to less than half, lessens the maintenance costs and time, and most of all, gives me an inarguable reason to buy another tractor. Geez, I am so smart.

It should say on the tire maximum pressure when seating beads. Plenty of soap is the key.

Glad you didn't loose a tooth!

Great idea. Makes sense. You obviously don't work for the government.

Here is the wiring diagram for your B-80 I do not condone the bypassing of any safety switch, but if it is necessary to do so temporarily, the wire from the "S" (start) terminal on the ignition switch goes directly to the small terminal on the solenoid. The ammeter wire gets connected to the same large lug on the solenoid as the (+) battery cable. The condenser wire and the points wire connect to the (-) side of the coil. The condenser body must be securely connected to ground.

For me, this is alway such an exciting sight to see...hope everyone who's got a pict like this will post it here too. :popcorn:

had the same problem today. we put 40 psi into some nanco 23-10.5-12 bar lugs and it wouldn't seat fully. left them in the sun for two hours, smacked them with a hammer-not too violently-a couple of times, checked them 30 minutes later and they had seated.

Seems like every thing food related is getting expensive you guys out east are lucky to have such close and fresh access to lobsters and such. And such a nice variety of wheel horse tractors for sale too!!

I was almost afraid to read this post after seeing the title! I use a 875 with the same deck as yours to mow my yard each week! You just can't beat the good job these mowers do, and the simple operations of our Wheel Horse tractors.

There's really no substitute for an Echo. They tend to be reilable and easy starting. I've had two trimmers, two saws, a pump, a drill, a blower, hedge clipper, and an engine driven sprayer. All flawless even though I bought most of them very well used. The killer for the economy grade trimmers and saws is the thin chrome plating on the cylinder bore. Higher end equipment (Echo, Stihl, Shindaiwa) use a better, heavier grade to last a lot longer and not lose compression. If you run a trimmer a lot, a premium engine is a nice thing to have. But 17 years out of an economy model is very commendable. I have an SRM-260 (bought new) which is a fairly powerful straight shaft string trimmer. It will swing two strands 0.125" diameter line from its bump feed head and will cut grass, weeds, vines, and even woody stems up to about 1/2" diameter without problem. Tipped vertically, it also makes an effective edger with no need to change anything. Big line is a nice thing. Line this diameter will cut PVC pipe (guess how I know) but it can be respooled down to about 0.080" for around the house. Smaller line requires a different head. I have had my trimmer for 10 years and have never had a jam or misfeed from the bump-to-feed head. If you choose an echo that is a "standard" striaght shaft model, they also will accept a couple of attachments if you have the need. And replacement heads are available if you want to cut heavy brush or add a different type of line loading spool. Of course they also sell the quick change split shaft models as well that offer a wide array of attachments: tiller, thatcher, broom, edger, blower, hedge clipper, underwater weed trimmer, etc. I prefer the straight shaft trimmer, but also have used the curved shaft models and like them too. They are little easier to use if you're shorter like I am (5'8"). My dad has the GT2100 curved shaft echo bought in 1992 and runs it weekly. No problems in 21 years of use with minimal maintenance. Echo warrants a 300 hour emissions life from their engines. Most others only warranty 50 hours. Not sure if this is a statistic with no value or if it means something. Echo makes good stuff. Steve

Ya I knew about the lifting pole being two pieces.

Too funny!!!

Hey Fellas.. i was bored here for a few days a go so ill went out to my shop.. to see if there was anything i could do LOL.. Hmm found some stuff.. then ill got the to make me a wheel horse sign. since i prolly never will find one here in norway. . so here are a few pict of what i did.. used as back side same stuff as they use in light sign (opalwhite cast acrylic) a board I cut slots in to acrylic stickers I had lying around that I put on then it was time to make a frame for it ... mounting the led light is about 240 of them Then it was time to try it and se how it worked.. wow it worked but the horse seems to be black.... well time to try it on the wall.. much better can se the horse head is RED but ill think it is a bit to bright.. well this was a test!! the bottom of the frame is bad so i have to make a new pice to put in there..but it light's up the shop really good..

Hell if you lived anywhere near me my Stepson would have already had them in the back of his S-10. Guy across the street got him started on scrapping now we can't make him stop. He has a full time job now but will get off of work and go out scrapping. Worst thing is he will spend all day running around with the neighbor and bring home maybe $20, he probably spent more then that in gas.

That looks great John. As much as I like seeing them restored to like new condition that one just looks right. Come up with a 50's looking setting and we're talking calendar material.

That's the one I've used in the past.......

Who ever is responsible for jacking up the prices... is full of beans.

Sounds like they need another user warning decal. Those things are supposed to be idiot proof. Do you need a good libel lawyer ?

Just a little update on how the 417 mows with the tri ribs. Not so good. While I love how it now looks with the tri ribs, forward swept front axle with gear reduction steering that I have on this 417. The problem is the deck now cuts unevenly when taking a turn and it probably picks up more grass clippings in the blower screen than it did with the old tires. This I believe is due to the tractor now sitting quite a bit higher in the front now, which in turn raise's the deck more in the front. The quality of cut that I had from the 48 inch deck previous to the tri ribs was absolutely fantastic, it honestly looked like a professional lawn service cut the grass. Though my 417 still runs super strong it does have right around 2000 hrs. on the clock. I'm thinking about switching the deck to my C-161 8 speed and giving that tractor a run. I'd love to do up my 417 as SOMEWHAT of a 420 clone if ya know what I mean...

Well all that time I spent polishing that coveted little piece of brass and now I learn that its supposed to be painted?!?! In the for what its worth department, there is still a little bit of black paint on the back side, the outer surface was painted gold when I bought the tractor. Forgot to mention in my earlier post, the other 953 I owned also had the later style headlights. Thanks much for the info Ralph.

shoot it and put it out of its misery. your horse will love you for it. hope your feeling ok, at least you didnt knock a tooth out. glenn

i'll give ya a $100

Geno- 1 brake rotor..........$1.50 12 brake rotors....$18.00 Bowtieguy- those last three words........PRICELESS!

You may want to look at this thread-

WH Nut....that is something I have tried before but as was mentioned earlier, when those twist-lock push-pulls won't stay locked, you really need to replace the cable end to end. I went through this with my 867 after buying it a few years ago.

I will probably not stop at two, but for right now, two Horseys are all I am will to spring for. There are some folks who will collect a pile of tractors, and restore/refurbish just a handful, the rest are stored in various states of decay or disrepair. There isn't anything wrong with that, as long as the tractors are kept out of the weather. Too, it keeps them from being scrapped. I am of the anal sort that has to get something back to almost new condition when I purchase it. Knowing myself to be this type, I figured if I buy an old Horse for 4 or 5 hundred dollars, I will not stop dumping money and work into it till I have about $800 or more invested. This is what happened to my 312-8. A $400 tractor that now only remotely resembles the one I use now. And I am still not done, as there are things that still needs addressing, and that bug the crap out of me. Economically speaking, just one tractor at a time for me. Then again, there may come that deal you just can't refuse.

Why stop at just two?

Will be there on Thursday night (camping) leaving on Sunday looking forward to seeing everyone there. If you can make it you should go it is a really nice show with lots of space!

And this is my other baby... Any other riders here ?

I don't believe changing front tires will help with your deck height problem. Wheel horse decks are true floating so when the deck is down, all the weight is on the rear deck wheels. Or should be at least. I guess if you raise the front end, you will also raise the height of the deck lift rod because it only goes down so far. You could accomplish the same thing by just setting the height on your dial height gauge. But I don't think it would mow very nice that way. You want the deck to float on the grass. like it was designed to do. Why not try 7 inch wheels on the mower deck and adjust your deck leveling rod??? Much , Much easier.....

Well I am going to try and get Denise's tractor up again this time with the correct orientation. Firpo, What are you waiting on, just go do it?! . I see your location, I have family from just down the river.

Same here on the $600 Bob. Last Christmas Eve I paid $425 for the 314 Hydro you see listed below. It has about 550 hours on the clock. It came with a super nice 42" SD deck. I have a snow blade that I bought for $150 that is in very nice condition (probably because it does not snow much here). Add that together and its $575. I think I paid $450 for the 414-8 that you see listed below. I'm guessing it had around 800 or less hours on it (no hour meter). It came with a 42" SD deck and a hitch for plows and such. Add the snow blade to it and again you are at $600. If you can get this one you are looking at for less thats great! If not, well I'd say $600 is fair for everyone concerned.

Humm... I wonder if Terry could hook us up with some custom transparent vinyl overlays, so we could make our own signs too.

Anyone from Missouri going?....might put this show on my "bucket list"...any suggestion on a good place to stay?

Here are some pics of a couple WH's that I have used WD40 and 4 ott- 0000 steel wool on for paint restoration. The first one is a 1967 Model #857 that I cleaned half of the hood to demonstrate how much paint is hiding under the rust. The 2nd machine is my early production 1955 RJ35 that was pretty much totally fried with rust. I couldn't see any red paint no where on this old girl. The after pics are quite amazing to see how much red paint is underneath the rust! So just spray the machine with WD40 and lightly rub it down with 4-0000 steel wool, that is the finest abrasiveness they make and I don't use any other size! So I hope this will help out guys who don't want to restore a nice original condition WH but just leave it in as found condition!! I think they look just fine the way they turn out with just a good cleaning. You can keep the oiled look on it year round with a few shots of WD40 later in the year too. I usually wipe it down with a towel type of rag just to keep it dry to the touch.

Other hobbies? Well when I'm not on a roller chasing a paver around, or locating...unlocated gas lines drilling. I spend my time mowing, riding ATV's, flea markets & garage sales with my wife in our cart. I'm also a firearms enthusiast.

Gettin' ready for the big 2013 show...don't forget to snap one of these on the way there.

The poly gas tank can be repaired. I've welded many a PE tank, tanks used for acids, gas, water, and many other chemicals. Best way for the average do-it-yourselfer? Use a soldering gun, melting along the seam (leak). Some welding shops carry PE (polyethylene) welding rod but, without it you can use a slice of any PE bottle (i.e.: used and washed a gal milk jug). http://www.usplastic...CFYNM4AodkDUAxA