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Hi all, Picked up a c175 at an estate sale a couple of weeks ago. Has always been kept inside, and has 885 hrs. In really nice shape besides the hood, no rust pits, or dents in anything else. Runs perfect, and the hydro is good and strong. Was not running when i bought it, but just took a battery and a shot of starting fluid and it purred to life. Came with a blower, 48" deck, and weights/chains. The sale it was at was a really cool place. The guy used to run a wheel horse dealer, but sold all his stuff about 10 yrs ago, this was his personal tractor. He did still have a few engine parts left over that I picked up, but nothing really special. There were 3 barns packed with stuff, you could hardly walk through, it was fun to dig through everything. Anyways, here's my tractor, never thought I would buy a horse this new, but this one is a keeper and I really like it. It will be my new blower tractor. Someday I might even do a quick repaint on it, as it would be an easy one to do. Also, I believe it is brand new in this picture of it at the dealer....

30 days now until the LeSueur, MN Pioneer Power Show. Just wanted to pop this up on people's radars. This will our 7th year showing Wheel Horses at this show. Got to meet several members who made the trip for the first time last year, looking forward to seeing any of them back as well as catching up with all the regulars. As always... hoping for new faces as well. The Pioneer Power club has been very receptive to us showing Wheel Horses at their show, in fact, it's brought about a whole new contingent of garden tractor exhibitors outside the realm of the regular hit and miss gas engine crowd. All in all, it's been fun to be a part of growing a little bit of this show. Last year I posted the following info which some people said was quite helpful, so I'll include it here again. You can get official information and showground map off the website http://www.pioneerpowershow.com but that doesn't really show what you guys need to know. It's best to get in at the Alternate gate, in the parking lot. Go in , turn left and go about 100 feet. That's where we set up. Fill in along the building first, and then across the lane as needed. We're supposed to have the whole area, but some other brands often end up filling in across the street too. First, here's the location of the show grounds, just off Hwy 26 between LeSueur and Montgomery on 265th Ave, just a few miles north of LeCenter. (Click images for larger versions) GPS address 34605 265th Ave, Le Sueur, Mn And here's the actual grounds.....One thing to remember, as you look at this map, North is to the left, East is up. Looking forward to another great show. Don't forget your lawn chairs!!

Back in the 80's I had my black 79 Z-28 and the jacket. I was all set! (My wife was sittin next to me when I opened this thread and at first she thought that guy was me!)

I've started the rebuild of my RJ58 and the CBR32 sickle bar that fits it. I've been collecting parts for it for a few years so I thought I'd get started on it. I didn't take many pics of the tear down, mostly just close ups for reference. I've got the engine tore down and cleaned up, ready to go to the machine shop. This one will get bored .010 and the crank will be turned .010. I got the parts for the engine today so I'll be able to take it to the shop this week. While it's at the machine shop I'm going to have them bore and tap the exhaust port to 3/4" N.P.T. Any opinions on which rim is correct for the RJ would be appreciated I picked up new blades for the sickle at the show in Le Sueur last year, I finally got those changed. Now I need to get it and a bunch of small parts sent to be plated.

I picked this 854 up last fall, it had a valve stuck in the engine and the oil pan gasket needed replaced as well as the points. I also had to replace the gas tank gasket, sediment bowl, fuel pump diaphragm and rebuild the carb. The tranny had water in it so I replaced all the bearings and seals, replaced the brake band lining and added a rear hitch. The seat was cracked so I picked up a good one at a show and I bought a back rest and had that recovered. It's got the wrong ignition switch in it so I've ordered a new one and most of the wiring has been replaced. The motor generator was junk but I had a good one on the shelf so I replaced that. The frame plate that bolts to the tranny was cracked, the hood stand bracket that bolts to the tool box was broken off along with one of the tabs that hold the belt guard on so I welded those things. This tractor was pretty rusty when I got it and I wanted to keep the original paint so I lightly sanded it just to knock the rust down a little then I wiped a coat of "salad dressing" on the tins. I really like the way it turned out, thanks for the idea Stevebo. The tires are cracked pretty bad so I may replace those some day but other than that I think this ones done. This may be the best running tractor I have.

Making a little more progress in between the other projects I have going. The steering sector needed a bit of work. As I mentioned, the ball joint on the original drag link had been welded into place. I ground it off and after getting some of the temper out of the weld I was able to get it re-tapped. Because it must have stripped out in the past (hence the weld) I didn’t know if I could get a good threaded hole for the new drag link I made. I think the weld helped me out here. It was a good fit but not perfect. I used Loctite 271 and after it set up it seemed fine but I decided to drill it for a roll pin for added strength. I think it will be fine. The steering pinion roll pin was a bit worn so it got replaced with doubled up roll pins. Then it was on to the hood stand. A picture of what I had is in post #39. I’m not too good at this type of metal work but I had an idea and I think it came out pretty good. The torched area filled in pretty good. The left ‘dog ear’ for the hood was cobbled up when that section was torched out. I ground the bottom tab free and reconnected it. Both ears needed straightening and that came out pretty good too. I’ve been test fitting everything as I go so I left the steering rod and hood stand in primer knowing I would mess it up some. I think I’m ready to do the final sanding and make it red. We’re leaving on vacation next week and I want to get them painted before we go so they will have dry time without my temptation to mess with things too soon. The other parts (lift arm, pedals, etc.) are ready to install once I’m done with the hood stand. I haven’t done anything to the front axle or the wheels yet. The wheels won’t take much because they are in pretty good shape. Just some sanding and a fresh coat of paint will make them look great. I’m kinda dragging me feet on those because I’m not worried about making it a roller yet and I’m hoping I come across some ags for the rear, maybe even 23-8.50’s. When we get back home I’m probably going to do the tool box and fenders so I can get things put together on top of the transmission. IDEA!! As I was taking these pictures I thought I’d post an ad in the wanted section later this afternoon. There’s a few things I need for this tractor and I’ll list them. This is really for the folks that live in the northern Indiana area. I’ll be up there the first week in August and if by chance somebody has something I need that they would part with I could pick it up rather than dealing with shipping. Details later today in the wanted section.

I would be willing to beat on one of your tractors.

YOU MEAN I CAN BOSS YOU AROUND ?

I'm in. Dibs on the Senior...I'll bring the trailer.

I have been curious about having a tractor with a loader on it. I decided that what I really wanted was a four wheel drive unit with a loader so I passed on a number of Wheel Horse tractors with loaders. Then, this Kwik-Way loader showed up on eBay and not too far from me. I bid on it and won the auction for $869.03. I figured I could find out how well they work without having to lay out a lot more money. I have a 1997 520H with the heavy duty swept front axle and gear reduction steering that it will eventually go on. In the mean time I mounted it one of my C-175 Automatics just to see if it even worked. Well it does work and it is a nice set up. Things I ran into are the following. 1. The tolerances are very tight and a little extra paint made it hard to install. I had to scrape some excess paint off to get the front loader support piece to fit into the front tachmatic unit. The tight fit is a good thing since there will be no slop when using the loader. The fit to the tractor is excellent and the weigh box attaches to the rear of the loader frame under the tractor. 2. The pump belt runs very close to the PTO harp and I had to use a bungee cord to keep it from rubbing. I may be able adjust the pump to get a little more clearance. 3. The top hinge points are worn but that is not a problem for now. I may have the holes redone over the winter. 4. The pistons all leak down a little but not bad enough to interfere with getting some serious work done. 5. The traction of the rear turf tires and the lack of differential lock did give me some problems backing up a small incline with a load in the bucket. 6. The steering is not the easiest with the standard C-175 front end. The 520H with gear reduction should be much better. If I were to do it again I would pay more for a unit in a little better condition. It also has a lousy paint job on it. Now that I have this loader I will use it and hold out for a four wheel drive unit at a later date. Here are some pics.

My Ranger has a K181 in it, easy swap, just lose the riser plate and it will bolt straight to the frame, the holes will line right up. There are a bunch of threads on here giving advice on sealing up the two piece tanks.

Here's a little update on the 57. Sunday I put the engine back together as a short block. It ended up just getting new gaskets/seals, a valve job and a new set of rings/ the cylinder honed. It should be a good engine as there was nothing wrong with it before I tore it apart. I got the shroud/hood done and ready for paint. Also, made a new speed selector rod and started making a speed selector arm, just have to pick up a piece of bar stock. Picked up a repop belt guard for it at the show, it is going to take some work to make it nice, but its better than nothing. I have a couple more brackets to finish sanding, and still have to fill some rust pits on the lift lever, but this is getting close to a last batch of paint. I don't see it being an issue on finishing this for the show in september. Anyways, here's a couple photos. Thanks, Jake

Atta boy Steve! But doesn't it make you wonder just what I do in my spare time?

You are getting voltage into the ground system somehow. It's either a grounding problem or a 12V wire shorted to ground somewhere enough to put voltage on the frame. If you're getting 17 volts with it running I would suspect the problem is before you get to the regulator. Check the wiring closely and check the grounds to the regulator and generator. It could also be the generator or regulator itself shorting voltage through it's casing to the frame. The meter going crazy when you get close without the probe touching is because the meter is picking up emitting votage, there is actually an electrical field around the tractor. I would't mess with it if you or the ground is wet because, well you know why... This is indeed an odd one.

Don, is she really going to notice another red Wheelhorse? Sent from my tractor seat.

Just tell the wife you bought it for her.

I got it Bob...the bow, the left arm is up and bent in the other and the shirt collar is different. Z WALA...must be the practice from looking at those rims for an hour earlier. BOOM SHA-KA-LA-KA... Don't ask me to pass this test tomorrow...I just seem to be sharp tonight.

Mike, ever play this game?

I have the plastic replacements.$55 plus shipping.$144 list price .I can ship or I will be at the Jones MI.swap meet Aug1-3.or LaGrange IN. The next weekend.

With pink 'n white decals, special order of course!

Nice score km3h, keep us updated. I love the pics.

Here's a great old standby... specifically made for removing oxidization from paint.

Great lookin tractor !! Congrats, and thanks for sharing.

Make sure you pull off those rubber floor boards and do a thorough cleaning under them. Be careful with the plastic "nails" that hold them in place-you will want to reuse them. I have found that all kinds of dirt gets trapped under them and with moisture will cause the foot rests to rust. Hopefully yours are OK. If not, that is what Rustoleum is for! Nice score BTW.

Nice tractor! That sounded like a good way to spend the day. I had the TransAm jacket when Smokey and the Bandit was the big and I decided I need a TransAm - 4 to be exact.

Steve... give that man a camera, a lawn chair and a lemonade! Wish I wasn't so far away, I'd love to help. Sounds like an awesome project and a lot of fun to be had. Like the old Wheel Horse ads say.... Get more done-Have more fun!

You did real good with that score Jake! The Black Hoods are classic Wheel Horses

Anybody know which one of these rims is correct for the 58 RJ?

Did a great job Denny !

Well lets not get crazy....

Thanks all, I don't know about the 520 club, but maybe someday if I find the right deal. Ken, the guy that owned all this stuff passed away a few years ago and was in charge of selling everything. My dad knew him from way back when. Everyone in the family were really nice people, and didn't want crazy money, just a fair price and someone that could use it. I spent about 3 days digging and then ended up going back in the middle of the week for a couple days and help them dig stuff out for the sale. I had a good time, and got to make sure nobody walked away with anything wheel horse. Anyways, enough with my story, but I looked up the guy on facebook, and he had a bunch of old pictures of the place from way back when and there this one was. But it is a cool photo, too bad that sign was gone, but I did score two original kohler signs for $5 Also another cool find were two tecumseh school patches, and an original 1982 wheel horse patch that I pulled out of a bin that was on its way to scrap. I'll put a couple more pictures of the stuff tomorrow for anyone that might want to see it.

I bet it is.

I am trying to envision a pink 416??? Seen a lot of Pink Rangers but a pink 416? Is that even legal Tankman?

Something that is a real "killer" is fly bait and coca-cola. Mix one 1bsp. of fly bait to 1/2 can of fresh coca-cola. ANYTHIG that eats this stuff will die almost instantly. Keep pets and anything that you love away from this stuff. It works that good. Be prepared to place lots of dead animals in a dumpster on be ready to dig lots of holes. Rob

gottah ask,. what did you do to bring out that amazzzzzing finish ?????? and what !!!!!!! is you secret salad dressing.????? .... the patina on your tractor is priceless......................... thankns for the pics......howard in virginia

there really isn't a short-cut to this repair. As I said before, examine the hubs inside and examine the axels. I have replaced axels & hubs quite a bit,and your better off doing it correctly in the long run. I mentioned the bearings because they can be worn and that leads to a leaky seal too. However, I have been advised not to drive the old bearings inward, could do some damage! Sorry about that! I guess it all depends on how "good " a job you want to do, or if it's a quick fix just to be able an drive the tractor?

That's about a 1967-ish Toro. Shortly after they bought the Springfield mowers line from Quick Manufacturing in Springfield, OH.

Great work!! Back to some good quality of life for the poocher.

Pulling a trailer and back-up mower for the C-120/180.

Very nice 854 is one of my favorite wheel horses, wish I had one.

Turned out great denny!

Denny showed me this one at the Oregon show and i gotta say if he had been away from it long enough i would have worked out a way to smuggle it out of the show area and on my trailer...... very nice original tractor there, definitely one to have.....

Nice job on the 854

That came out real nice!

Work clothes look great... the found patina is awesome Denny.

I know you're a GT history buff Steve... but you are so dead on with this comment. If you think about it... Colt started in Milwaukee, WI then became Case.. .Deere in Horicon, WI, Simplicity in Port Washington, WI, also built for Allis-Chalmers, Duetz-Allis, Snapper, Massey Ferguson, Homelite, JC Penneys and Montgomery Wards that I know of. There was also Gilson... from Plymouth, WI. Ariens in Brillion, WI, who now also produces Gravely. Jacobsen in Racine, WI, also produced Ford, Oliver, Minneapolis Moline and White. Toro has a manufacturing plant in Tomah, WI. (not sure what they make there... the Wheel Horses were made in Windom, MN) There are others and tons of older ones, but that's just what comes to mind. And that's just tractors... if you think about it, most of the engines came from there too.... Obviously Wisconsin engines made in Waukesha, Kohler engines from Kohler, WI, Briggs and Stratton from Milwaukee, even Tecumseh had a manufacturing facility there in New Holstein even though their headquarters was in Michigan. This was all a pretty symbiotic relationtionship... engines built near the people who were going to use the most of them, while lawn and garden manufacturers located near their engine suppliers. All of this of course is just Lawn and Garden.... there's ton's of farm equipment activity in WI too... but that's beside the point.

Hi Kato. I told Mike "you can hit it lightly with a hammer", and yes you can. I learned this from my dad when I was very young. I remember the first time my dad showed me this trick. We were out in a field about a mile from shop on the farm and the old Super M wouldn't start the starter just clicked. He took a hitch pin and told me to push the starter button. He hit the starter with the hitch pin and she fired right up. Several times in my life this has happend to me when I was out and a tap or 2 with the old tire iron that came with the car or truck at least got me home. Most times the first light tap makes the starter start spinning and you know where to start working. If I have a car, truck or tractor towed to my shop it is the first thing I do when it is out on the lot. 90% of the time it works and I drive it in the shop and put it on a rack. I prefer it to pushing it in and have also diagnosed an area to start working before it is even in the shop. I have been doing this on tractors large and small and on vehicles for over 35 years and never had a problem. I have owned my own repair business for 20 years now never had a problem. Another reason I do this is to find an actual problem quickly and not just throw parts at it, customers don't like that very much. The case can not flex enough to break the magnet unless you hit it hard enough to flex or dent the casing, which would be very, very hard.

I almost got run over several time by the same couple of youngsters while at the show. Being new to the whole thing I just moved on. Some of those tractors had big engines in them with the governors removed and foot throttles. That's OK if the driver has a bit of discipline and is careful but when they want to hear the rumble of the engine and show off a bit it is a bit scary. I was thinking of the vicarious liability on the show sponsors if someone got hurt.

The hood was cracked from the weight of the gas tank so I decided to mount the tank to the frame instead of hanging it from the hood. It still needs a little tweaking but looks like it'll work. I've left a small air gap between the tank frame and the hood so it won't rub. Next I need to extend the filler neck on the tank to get it back to the correct height.