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I don't believe there is anything bad about splash lubrication. All of our one lung kohlers are splash and we all know how they perform. And second, the KT series 1 is not splash lubrication in any way. It has an oil pump but only feeds the main bearings and cam. The cam is suppose to drip lubricate the rods. The motors are good up to 2000 hrs as long as oil is kept up with and not operated on steep hills for an prolong periods of time. Series 2 has a filter and drilled crank for feeding the rods with oil. Besides for the price, this one was coming home with me regaurdless. I would like to have a series 2 but I believe I can keep this one running a long time if it is ok from the start. kyle

Picked up a Suburban 1961 which has a Clinton in it. Looks original, but not sure yet. Came with original wheel weights, snow plow and mower deck. Oh yea this one has the serial number on the tractor and the mower deck. I'm tickled about this find. I already cut some grass with it. enjoy!!

Thanx for all the welcomes guys, That is soooo funny Lars. Great song Haven't quite got over the time differences yet at I am writing this at 4 am as it would be 10 am in UK. Had a day in Downtown Manhatten yesterday , Liberty statue, Ellis Island etc Also went to World Trade Centre Memorial , that place literally brought tears to my eyes. What a beautiful memorial they have given to those that lost their lives in 911 The new WTC building is just awesome . Was hoping to go into the 911 museum but there was a 3 hour wait in the waiting line. So we swerved past that for another time. New York City is an amazing place to visit, this is my second time in the Big Apple & it just gets better each time. Wonderful food, Amazing architecture And the size of the trucks is just mind bowing

Ok , I am starting to feel a little nuts but I couldn't help but go and pick this thing up. Once again a late night. We where on our way to play at an open mic and it just so happens, this thing was on the way.... Very solid tractor. I am keeping this on for sure. Seat is in great shape. I sure hope this runs. Its full of grass from last years mowing and I believe it was there only mower. More later.... Here is a teaser shot.

Well it took awhile but sure turned out nice.

Not sure yet. This might be a good one to clean up and leave alone

Yup, probably cast steel. The cross sectional area of the arms is really too small to be cast iron, and the slot pretty much rules a forging out. Steel. Cast steel, in fact any cast metal, tends to be brittle. The rolling process in a steel mill tends to align the molecules, and impart toughness. That said, cast steel, stainless, brass and bronze, etc, will more readily bend, hot or cold, than cast iron, you just don't want to bend it very far. When looking at a part that appears to be cast, there are a few easy tests that anyone can do to determine just what the part is. If magnetic, it is ferrous-based, and either iron, or any number of steels or stainless (your lower grades of stainless are indeed often cast, and will be magnetic). A forging will many times visually resemble a casting, but will almost always be steel. Also, forged shapes tend to be simple, think U-joints, wrenches, hammer heads, tie-rod ends, etc. If you have determined the part to be a ferrous casting, grind a little off with a sander, bench grinder, etc., and look closely at the spark pattern. Steel will emit a copious shower of bright yellow sparks. If cast iron, the sparks will be much more muted, shorter in length, and duller. The difference is easily discernable.

OK....NOW!!!!! The new gasket material arrived, got them cut and slapped everything together. With all the practice I've had I think it takes me about a minute to get all the parts in place. She's spinning free!!! Finally, I can move on to actually accomplishing something. Another big for all the help. Steve, you're the man! Time for a beer or 6 and go watch a transmission spin.

Enjoy us Neil...

Definitely going to show Neil a good time. He may not want to go back. He will be following me on the roads, so he should be OK.

Do a google image search "argent silver paint" for examples...everybody has it. I get mine from Eastwood...automotive restoration products. http://www.eastwood.com/silver-argent-rally-wheel-paint-set.html

I just aquired this Rj58 here in the UK from a friend, i pick it up this week Its a Runner although there are a few cosmetic things that are not quite right with itbut i intend to sort them out , so i will be asking for some RJ parts off you guys the first thing i need is a rear tool box & fenders if anyone has any

My name is Gregg..... And I am an addict... Started with one, and now I'm up to three.... The urge to say no to number four is not working..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't had twenty Horses, maybe over time I did. Who's counting? Sons, grandsons, even the Ms. loved mowin'. Maybe just the riding around, relaxed. Lawns were always well kept. One day after my two sons were teens (now in their 40's), neighbor said to me, "I don't want to get involved but, your sons drag race your Wheel Horses down the road when you're not home." I told him, "Oh well." To this day, 'bout 40 years, still admiring the Stallions. Don't you just laugh, tickled, when you see a purchase goin' down in a BIG box store? Enjoy your Stallion! Many more to come, one to till, one to sweep, one to mow, one to tow, another to push, one or a dozen "work in progress." Are gnats really the New Hampshire Air Force?

I haven't had twenty Horses, maybe over time I did. Who's counting? Sons, grandsons, even the Ms. loved mowin'. Maybe just the riding around, relaxed. Lawns were always well kept. Snow was never a problem. One day after my two sons were teens (now in their 40's), neighbor said to me, "I don't want to get involved but, your sons drag race your Wheel Horses down the road when you're not home." I told him, "Oh well." To this day, 'bout 40 years, still admiring the Stallions. Don't you just laugh, tickled, when you see a purchase goin' down in a BIG box store? Enjoy your Stallion! Many more to come, one to till, one to sweep, one to mow, one to tow, another to push, one or a dozen "work in progress." Are gnats really the New Hampshire Air Force? Got to go check Craig's List, Wheel Horse of course!

Steve, Thanks for the encouragement during what could have been a bad day. Everyone's input is greatly appreciated. The Wheel Horse community is great! Semi-retired. On the input pulley freeing up, I had the case rotated 90 degrees from normal on its side and gave the input pulley quick left and right rotation force. I think a needle dislodged from the gears somewhere. There were are a couple of needle bearings in the bottom of the case with bends in them. These transmissions are heavy duty by any standard. After the rebuild, I would not be surprised to see another 40 years of service out of it.

I vote that the for the RS picture..the members who travel the farthest..are up front! Neil, Did you bring a Union Jack?

Give it a rub down with some light sand paper and some oil and paint the wheels it will look awsome

I'd give you 2 thumbs up if my I- Pad would let me!

Great job... turned out really nice.

Well the girlfriend came to pick me up at work since we are short a vehicle from the PA hail storm. When she drives up I see a Raider 10 in the bed of the truck! She saw me looking at it on craigslist. It was listed with a plow , blower and deck. But when I called , he said it was sold..... Turns out the person he sold it to was her . Totally through me off, Ill tell you. Not many girlfriends out there that will buy you a tractor lol. And here I thought she was thinking I had to many.... She said, I like the older ones , with the older hoods. Yours are to new looking. So then she saw an RJ today and now I guess we need one of them too . Oh well, I guess this gives me the right to buy some more . Only issues with it is, it leaks fuel out of the fuel shut off mounted on the hood stand. Only when the fuel is turned on. Can I replace seals in this or buy a new one like it to mount there or do I just have to eliminate it with a new plastic type?? Second issue is the starter went south. It flew apart on the guy she bought it from when he was starting it. Now I have broken pieces. The starter motor is good but not the gear drive bendix. Any one know where to find a starter for a 10 horse Tecumseh?? No one local has one.... I showed the starter to Bill Jenkins and he said he never saw one like it. It has a heavy cast iron mounting bracket that uses two bolts to mount to the block. He told me , it was the first time he saw one like it. Hope that's not a bad sign.... We would love to be able to take this to the tractor show this weekend in bowers pa. We did however kick start it by towing it behind the 520H and it ran and drove really nice actually. So that was a plus. Here are some pictures for you guys.....

Oops! Sorry Steve. I should have known you knew that. r356c, After trying everything I could to get my left hub off I ended up cutting the axle. But, not before I knew I could get new axles. I gave the hub with the cut off piece stuck in it to my son-in-law who took it to the mechanic where he works. They have a 5 ton press and took it to the limit but the stub popped out and my hub was saved. I guess it would come down to whichever part you have the easiest access to a replacement.

Thanks Guy's you just crack me up I can't wait to see your replys from the next "Will it Chop?" video.... Which is here

OH GEEZ!! NOOOOOOOO!! With all that's gone on I don't want to be too quick with the woo hoo. Let's just say I've got the mouse courser pointed to the emoticon.

Did you check with our vendors ?? Kelly is in OLIVET

As luck would have it, I just picked up a 4" angle grinder and metal cutting wheels. I will do the lengthwise cut in the hub and try to save the axle.

The Argent silver can be found, but it will most likely be with an automotive paint firm. When Craig posted the name, I thought it sounded familiar, and sure enough, it was used to paint the grille of my 1949 Ford F2 pickup. Dupont, PPG, and others have it. It is probably one of those silver paints that perennially crop up for use in a variety of applications.

Wow! - 30° Thats a pretty steep angle! While I have a couple ditches and smallish grades I dont think I have a situation that steep. Good stuff to know. Thanks Craig... Roundhouse, I bought 2 C-175's that had been sitting outside for YEARS, one useable with an Eaton 700, and the other an 8 spd with no tranny, but good engine. I've got the Eaton up and cutting grass, and am presently adapting the other KT-17 to a C-165 that had a blown engine. They are my first KT's and as I said I've really taken a shine to them. Also my first black hoods and I've take to their style also.

You are correct you need the gaskets in order to provide clearance, also you want the bushings to be a little on the tight side IMO, lube them with engine assemble lube so you know you they will not get washed out, run the tranny in 1ts and 2nd gear for a little while to allow everything to break in...

That tractor looks to be very clean, must have been kept inside - and sounds like you got a good deal on it too. On the subject of the KT-17's series 1 and their oiling method, I seem to recall reading somewhere Kohlers recommendation of the maximum grade to operate the engine at, anybody know what that was? I have 2 of the series one and both are in very good condition and I like them and the sound of them - I'd like to keep them that way!

Hard to go horribly wrong here... as they're all pretty much the same color.

Can't find any of the Argent, looked at TSC and NAPA, but I guess Rally Wheel silver is close too. Found it at TSC

I’m getting a rare sense of confidence that I have the issue resolved. I tried to check for axle housing squareness but it’s just not off enough to be certain. I honed out all four bronze bushings a little bit more and just made sure everything was polished smooth. I reassembled the differential and installed just it in the case with NO gaskets. It’s turning!! The axles are completely free and the differential seems to be rubbing just a fuzz but still turning pretty good. With no gaskets it likely is the differential housing being pinched a bit but it’s slight. The gaskets will probably resolve the rub but, worse case, I’ll need to get a little more clearance on the carrier bushings. With the assembly process used 54 years ago I believe that the tolerances needed when new parts are installed has to be a little more than today’s processes would require. I’m at a standstill right now until Mr. postman gets here today.

Why not keep the history/patina... and just clean as you go? It's only original once.

I like that air filter, great flow-thru design. Should block many bugs, house pets, and furry woodland creatures.

First of all, what year is the B-80? Looking at the hub, I would guess that it is a 1" axle, making it a 1974 or 1975 4-speed. Not sure why the input shaft is locked, but I have two disassembled B-80 4-speeds that we can get you some parts from if needed. Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk

Welcome to the states! Have a safe and fun,fun time!

After reading this thread, and we have done this before, I want to add that I do use Sea Foam in my gas for the tractors and for the boat. I like the Snake Oil thing though. I am going to take some masking tape and re-label all my cans of Sea Foam in the garage.

Welcome! Looking forward to meeting you in person at the show!

You might be able to get to 3600 RPM's by adjusting where your throttle cable sets with respect to the carb. I had another color tractor with this same problem and that was the fix. IMHO - you should run at full throttle, 3600 RPM's. This gives you maximum blade speed, maximum lubrication and maximum cooling potential. When you hit a tall patch of grass, your engine's governor will try to maintain the 3600 RPM's. At that point, you are maxed at the amount of fuel that can go into the engine and are truely making your engine's max hp. Once the engine starts becoming overloaded, the RPM's start to fall and you start getting into the torque curve. Think of torque as a baseball bat and the amount of torque when you swing it is based on your hand position. So when you're no longer choked up on the bat, your swing slows, but when you hit the ball, it will hammer it. Same with your engine hp's torque. RPM's slow, the engine has the big lever to muscle through the tall grass. When it's over, the engine returns to 3600 RPM's and your gold again.

Here's what I think of seafoam. Does it work - IMHO, can't hurt. I use both seafoam and MMO. I think of seafoam as a cleaner and MMO as an upper cylinder lubricant. I use seafoam occasionally and MMO in every tank. Does it work? Again - don't really know. The BIGGEST reason I use the stuff is, again, it can't hurt, but for me it's part of the fun of kind of checking out of the real world and back into the past, along with the old iron tractors. I'm sure if my grandfather would have bought a Wheelhorse, he'd be dumping something in the gas. I have a friend whose grandfather worked at a Ford dealership for about 40 years and swore my MMO. My friend and my self think - well if it was good enough for them, it's good enough for us. So - I say, use the treatment you like and don't look back! It's all good! Bill

Welcome to the colonies Neil. Hope to meet you at the show. Dave B Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2

Welcome Neil. See you at the show.

Welcome to New York Neil and Carolyn! As you know, it's a fabulous city with plenty to do and see. Really looking forward to meeting up with you at the show, hope you've recovered from your long flight and time change!

welcome Neil see you at the big show Brian

This all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Are you trying to clean the fuel system? Yes sea foam is a great cleaner of old varnish and stale gas. But so is ethonal fuel. Alcohol is the cleaner. Are you trying to eliminate water in the fuel? then NO, isopropal alchohol will attract water. Are you worried about your fuel lines? Then No, Naptha will soften the lines. I suggest replacing all of your fuel lines with a good quality gas line rated to accept alcohol. You might also want to rebuild your fuel pump and carb needle to a Viton style. For fuel we use Star Tron fuel stabilizer for extended down time. ie a month or more. Or you can use at every fill up. This help eliminate the harmfull effects of ethonal on many of the fuel system parts. Good luck with your decission. Al

Amanda, One very important question to be asked before giving it a Yea or Nay would be “What do you expect to accomplish by the use of this product?†Experience tells me most expectations for “liquid fix†products fall into one of three very different categories. Scenario one. “I use it a few times a year as preventative medicine.†This, in my opinion, is the expectation held by the most informed user, folks who take one a day vitamins and 81mg aspirin. These users understand 50 year old gasoline engines will develop deposits in the combustion chamber and in the valve area. These users understand gradual varnish buildup takes place in the fuel delivery system as a natural aging process. These users understand small deposits are most easily resolved by fuel system cleaners WHEN THE DEPOSITS ARE IN THE EARLY STAGES OF THEIR DEVELOPMENT. I have been using this product for nearly 15 years and believe SeaFoam will perform admirably as a preventative added during regular fuel-ups. Scenario two. “I used it when I had a fuel problem and it didn’t do a $^#^ thing!†NOT EVERY ISSUE CAN BE CURED BY SEAFOAM. A worn out throttle shaft closely mimics varnished fuel passages in a carburetor.. SeaFoam cannot cure a worn throttle shaft, problems with corroded points or a problematic ignition coil. You may not have properly diagnosed this problem and used the wrong tool to attempt to correct your problem. However, Seafoam can function very nicely as an exclusionary diagnostic tool. Many talented automotive diagnosticians use products such as this to eliminate suspect areas of the fuel delivery system in cars. The SeaFoam treatment works wonders for diagnosing and correcting fuel injector delivery imbalance caused by buildups dissolvable by SeaFoam. Scanario three. “I used SeaFoam and it caused a whole bunch of other issues.†I’m guessing these engines and fuel systems were what I call TW’s. “train wrecksâ€. Problems just waiting to happen. 20 plus year old fuel lines, brittle fuel pump check valves and years of tarnish, bugs, and trash in the fuel tank. Adding (or probably overloading) the fuel with Seafoam breaks off large chucks of varnish, bugs and debris and clogs your fuel filter or maybe even your carb passages. Dam#^$% Seafoam. Not the fault of the product itself as it is doing what it promised – dissolving deposits. You are using the product improperly and expecting a miraculous cure for your TW. Ain’t gonna happen! Use the right tool for the right job and have realistic expectations. As far as the negatives you have heard. “Too much smoke†– sorry, you are using the product improperly – you are putting waaaayyyy to much product in your fuel. “Too expensiveâ€, OK. Buy the gallon and reduce the price in half. Less than 50 cents per thankful a few times per year. It’s a hard argument to make when you spend hundreds of dollars in time / materials on your paint job on that same tractor !! If a cheaper alternative is needed, I have also personally used Chevron Techron fuel additive in everything from Porches to Dodge Caravans without issue. “Didn’t clean up my carbon deposits†– you don’t want to clean a cylinder area with heavy deposits by chemical action alone. Wrong tool for the job. You don’t want flaked off carbon “chips†down around the piston ring area. Best to remove major carbon buildup by mechanical scraping and then followup with regular addition of the additive. “Not recommended in the manufacturer’s manualâ€. I haven’t checked later model engine manuals but the K series wouldn’t be updated since it is no longer manufactured. Manufacturers typically don’t recommend any additives but I have yet to see any manufacturers specifically stating not to use SeaFoam or like products. Most manufacturers don’t care as long as the product makes it through the warranty period. As far as the composition of the product, MSDS sheets are not required to list any manufacturer’s “secret ingredientsâ€. The only time they disclose those secrets is if someone presents at a hospital ER having swallowed their product. The physician will then contact the manufacturer and then be informed of any additional ingredients not listed on the MSDS.

welcome to the USA ! you will love flipping the windshield washer lever instead of the turn signal! have fun. I guess at the show we just have to look for chap with the jellied eel!

UH oh...clear the roads.

In my sleep? Today that would have been called a nightmare. I did start getting frustrated cuz things just weren't making sense. Then I discovered the problem with the rod holding the diff in the side plates. I do need that shim on the brakeshaft at the mushroom gear end. It's rubbing just a fuzz but wasn't causing the issue. The diff was the only thing I had in place. I got the axles and pinions back out but I need new stones for my hone. I'll get those tomorrow. I had already smoothed the pipe thingys the bushing ride on but I did some more this morning, I did gain a little bit so I agree that it's headed in the right direction. I'm going to use 1/32" gaskets instead of the 1/16" so the fit to the frame will be better. There's still going to be plenty of room for the shims on the input and brake shafts. You would have had to refill that cooler several times today