Leaderboard

So what you're saying is that I can't do this with my Dremel and my DeWalt drill? Nice tutorial. Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk

Hello guys, i was given a wheelhorse 5xi series, the model # tag is faded and all i can make out is the MODEL 785...... its got a kohler 20hp v twin, its a nice tractor but theres one big problem, you know that cast looking pice on the end of the steering shaft that the steering arms connect to??? well mines smashed.... all pieces are there but how big of a pain is it to fix that? is i weldable or if not how expensive are they? oh this also cam with a huge snow blower, a 5 foot deck, a cultivator thing and a tow behind grader thing....

I did it the other way Brian

If you Really Really like the John Deere and you are happy with it I'd hold onto it. Why set yourself up for possible disappointment? Maybe you can paint the John Deere red?

Last summer, my old John Deere 160 engine bit the dust, so I purchased a used Simplicity Broadmoor. Nice tractor, BUT, when I had my Cyclone Rake attached and was cleaning up leaves in the fall, I found that the mower deck would blow leaves out the front, making the dreadful job of leaf cleanup even harder. So, I put a for sale sign on the Broadmoor, set it out by the road, and within 4 hours it was sold and gone. Now, the task of finding another lawn tractor to use with the Cyclone rake with began. Since all of my Wheel Horses would require the purchase of a side discharge deck, and extensive modification in the hitch department to be able to haul around the Cyclone, I opted to go back to John Deere. My brother-in-law had recently gotten a JD X300 from an estate, didn't really need it, so he offered it to me at an unbelievable price. It's everything I need. 42" side discharge deck, 17HP twin cylinder OHV engine, hydrostatic transmission, and reasonably low hours.

Don1977 got me thinking about this again so I decided too do it as the 1533 bearing is no longer available from toro My fix needs some machine work to beable to do this replacement the standard 1533 bearing dim. are 1 1/2" ID x 2 1/2" OD x 1/2" W the new R22 bearing I'm replacing it with is 1 3/8" ID x 2 1/2" OD x 7/16" W so this requires I remove .0625 from the differential hubs Since we don't have a manual lathe at work I setup my vertical lathe turned the dia. to 1.375 plus 0 minus .0005 1533 bearing is on the left and the R22 bearing is on the right notice the R22 is a heavier bearing and should work just fine as the original 1533 bearing is 1/2" wide and the R22 is 7/16" wide I use a .0625 shim to make up the differance shim in place on diff. hub R22 bearing installed with shim this should work fine for the old transmissions that use the 1533 bearing with 1" axles Brian

If you're around the horses for very long you'll hear of the very scarce 1533 differential carriage bearing in the stick shift transmissions. The obvious reason for this is simple - they havent been made for many, many years and what few are around are dwindling at an alarming rate. I had heard of guys "machining" a case to fit an oversize bearing but never knew any details, so being a fairly decent home shop machinist with a nice large Bridgeport type mill and lathe I thought I'd see what I could come up with. With member Groundhog44 having a couple sets of cases the 2 of us started looking. The original 1533 bearing is/was 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 1/2" - the nearest thing to that (that I could find!) was a R24-2 rs or zz with its diminsions being 1-1/2 x 2-5/8 x 9/16". With only adding 1/8" diameter and 1/16" thickness the case appeared to have ample 'meat' to handle machining out this amount. This size bearing is very common and is relatively inexpensive, so I got 4 of them to see. The first puzzle was to get the case 'fixtured' on the mill to do the boring - this was stumping me til I called my "machinist by trade" buddy and with his years of experience quickly pointed me in the right direction. He was also able to furnish the 2 heavy steel bars needed to 'hang' the case off the mill table. Let me pause here and state the rather obvious fact - this is not a repair that can be done in most of your shops, but I would think many of you know of, or have friends that have the necessary equipment - and its very possible in the not to far future that a visit to a machine shop may have to be done. In order to get a grasp of what we did, I tried to get enough pics to see the set-up... This is the 2 heavy bars mounted to the table with the mills head swiveled around in order to reach the case that will be mounted off the right front of the table to clear the mills knee. This is the case mounted in the fixture where I am about to locate center of the existing bearing bore in preparation for the boring Here I am starting enlarging the hole. The depth of the hole needed to be increased from the original 1/2" to the 9/16" which is only .0625, but has to be done. I finished this step before enlarging the hole the extra 1/8" (this is only 1/16" off each side) And this is the new bearing sitting in its new home - this is a R24 rs bearing meaning it is a sealed unit, its only necessary to 'pop' out the rubber seal to allow oil to flow through, which I have done here (this same bearing in zz designation is a shielded bearing and doesnt require anything)

Hello All, I brought a nice little tractor back home with me Saturday, but haven't been able to post photos yet as my membership ran out! I'm now renewed and I'm a supporter again! Where do I start, well the man I purchased it from, said it wasn't his, it belonged to his dad, and his dad had used it to mow the fairly large laws they have. Until it was outdated by all the modern machines this little lawn ranger had apparently been sitting in the same spot for 15 years, he didn't know any other history but that, It took a while to load up onto the trailer, as all the tyres had bad flat spots so was bounced into the trailer, then strapped down and we was on our way home. It was only 45 minuites away but the journey home seemed to take forever, Once we was home it was unloaded, and pushed round the back just out of curiosity I plugged up the compressor and inflated the tyres, the two front tyres hold air, but the two rear tyres don't they hold air for a few hours then end up flat, The bonnet needs some work, needs some beating bending and shaping, and welding new slats for the grill need making up and welding in, all round, it shouldn't be too hard, but that's the fun of a restoration, The first job was take the bonnet off, and sit it too one side ready for the work that needs doing to it, Then we got too work with removing the cutting deck and cleaning up the seat! The girlfriend was even willing to help, (rare sighting seeing Robyn with a tool) Then the whole thing went for a wash, and was left to dry ready for work the next day, I then went to work cleaning out the fuel system where I was greeted by some thick golden syrup like petrol, I cleaned out the carb, filter bowl, tank and the lines, Then we wasn't getting a spark when we tried to start it up, so I then got to removing the flywheel and cleaning the points, As of now it runs and runs okay, just needs some tuning, once it's running perfect, I'm buying a new exhaust, getting the bonnet welded up and fixed, new tyres stickers painted etc, more updates as and when the work is done, Here's a few more pictures for you too all look at!

Just won....gotta a SMOKIN deal from a semi-local online auction house on two...count em two 520's...hopefully pick them up Friday...

Just what were they thinking??????????????????????????///

I had a little time in the garage a week ago, and had the fixins to weld this together. Just pull or insert the bolt Though the mounting bracket and Gen for easy on or off you don't even have to tighten a nut and it holds just fine. I was thinking about having a battery Jump pack with a mounted start switch with test leads hooked up but either way This will come in handy to ck the output of Delco Starter Generators when they are off the tractor. I was gonna post some crap that they were given to WH Dealers for their repair shops but figured you guys would know better. So as Lars would say..... what the folck! ~Duke http://youtu.be/Kafd8pw1bGQ

I pick one up @ a show in the the box it came in from the factory with a tail light kit & all the wiring still in the bubble plastic with wheel horse stamp on the box . I left in the box thinking it might be worth more if i didnt take it out & mount it .

I had a 210-H that looked similar. I named it Gossemer after the red monster in the Bugs Bunny cartoons!

henry, henry the horse Koen

I've never seen a half-track horse. That would be interesting! Maybe something like this?

I have always thought about putting two transaxles together on the back of an existing tractor and having tracks made to go over the wheels for more ground contact...

Thanks Craig. Eventually, perhaps this winter, I will try to repaint all the sheet metal. An engine overhaul is definitely in the very near future. I noticed that it is using about 1/4 quart of oil after about 4 hours of operation. Thickened the oil with Lucas (don't like doing it) to try to slow down consumption. If I can just limp her through the summer, I will be happy. That is the thing about Wheel Horses, and other quality tractors like Cubs, Deeres, etc. from years ago for that matter. They can have issues and be sick, yet still run. Too, when you do have to work on them, you have something to work with, you repair and rebuild, and you have a tractor that will last another 30 years with proper care.

It's probably still the carb acting up, but just for grins look in the manual and double check the governor sensitivity adjustment settings and procedure, read the instructions completely and familiarize yourself with the procedure before you start adjusting things

I also like the square look of the 416, not a fan of the round look of the tractors or automobiles of today's times.Must be the old school in me.

Not yet but the day is just starting.... Late night at work last night

Just got my Lawn & Garden magazine yesterday, and the article on the kids and the club was just great. Kudos to you Scott for the great job. Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk

hey papaglide that 416 is in nice shape those hubcaps look flawless!!! imo I think it is a much nicer looking tractor the 3,4,500 series have always been my favorite. I am close to the finish line on my re paint of my 90 312H which im hoping will look as nice as your 416. keep your eyes peeled for a thread of it when I am finished.

That sounds awesome Duke, I knew you'd have it runnin in no time. The tires are going to look real sharp without a doubt. Field and Road, how cool is that! I bet ole Stevebo has already ordered a set of them front tires!

I understand about the fuel economy thing, I parked my 520 and use a C-145 and a C-101, Sold the 60 inch deck and now use 48 and 42. Takes a little longer but huge savings in fuel. As far as the JD VS 523 Xi, if were me I would stay with the JD. Like you said parts are available. The 523 is nice but I think if your wanting a Diesel there are better options out there.

What are you looking for on the 16 hp motors? What model are they?

Really nice stuff duke

I recently installed the tiller on my C-160, and with the tiller raised the front of the tractor was way to light. If I wasn't very careful releasing the clutch, it would do a wheelie, and drag the tiller on the ground. I have an old junk JD F510 that had some small weights on the back, and I figured anything from a John Deere makes good Dead Weight, right? Anyway, I had an extra mule drive laying around, so I made a few modifications to it, and bolted the weights on the front of the Horse. They snap right into the tach o matic, just like the mule drive does. Now, unless I just dump the clutch, the front end stays on the ground. Here are a couple pics, and yes they are from today. We're still gardening down here, although we're expecting temps close to freezing tonight, which is why we put bags over the tomato plants. This garden actually belongs to my good friend Byron, who is also a member here (byrunner). I help out with the equipment needs, and we're also tending it right now, as he is out of the country for a month. Matt

Two much fun? Get it.... two....too....

she is a real beauty Charlie and she certainly will turn heads, but then so will the lawn ranger. did you have to remove steering wheel to get hood off ?

Progress has been slow lately with the arrival of spring and yard chores. Had to start over on fender and hood because of a primer issue. I should be painting the motor soon. Put on new knobs, steering cap and anti-slip pads.

parked on the hill, ebarake doin' its job Stopped after a 500' mud bog trip down the hill though the woods to the cow shed Parked (and brake set) waiting for another ton of pack to haul off to the compost heaps. Once the grounds dry up going will be a lot easier. But after 7 hours we only go stuck once, the loaded wagon got hung up and the rear wheels dug in up to the gearbox. 5 min with the winch and it was back to work.

Just got back with the second load, but here is a few pics of the first one. Back of the wifes van had them hanging out the sides Back of my suburban Can you see 5 complete tractors in the pic ?? they are even all in one piece 2 suburbans, a lawn Ranger, a Simplicity, and a Anniversary edition WH plus LOTS more I'll get pics of the rest in a bit, I need to eat been on the go from 6am, it's 2:30 now

How far away is it from your place, Kelly? Looks like a nice collection and I can only imagine the nuts and bolts parts the gentleman has.

I plan on going to the Sugarcreek tractor show on May 10th coming up fast in 2 weeks. I think Wheel Horse is a feature this year so I hope to see some Redsquare members there. Anybody plan on going? I will have a custom one of a kind WH machine there and my buddy will have his custom one of a kind double engine WH there too!

Excellent Frank...just what we were looking for. Looks like your horse is correct for the engine and trans. You have a 1979...B-111...with the Foote 4000-5 6 speed trans...with a Briggs 11 hsp engine...B-252707-0151-01. The spec number tells you some of the differences that your engine has that makes it work on Wheel Horse Tractors...instead of snow blowers, stationary engines, etc. Now I would feel confident looking for parts or a replacement transmission. The model # of your tractor...92-11BF01...says 1979...11 hsp Briggs...Foote trans. And I believe the rest is your serial number...063419087.

frank...I sent you a couple of PMs. We need to know the model number and maybe a couple of pictures would help a lot.

Kinda like the idea of smoked mole, so I thought I'd givem a taste of Horse CO. Several horses were happy to join the hunt.