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It lives!!! Well all four hubs spin and the centre pivot works Sneak preview here....

Thanks so much guys. ITS BEEN SAID BEFORE BUT I WILL SAY IT AGAIN: THIS IS THE BEST FORUM BAR NONE BECAUSE OF YOU GUYS; THE MEMBERS; WHO SO FREELY SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND ARE SO WILLING TO HELP OTHERS.

just happened to glance at this thread and I see 2 local members!!! Topic starter cutlas3391 and papaglide. I live in Lancaster. And Cutlas3391 if you tag at the bottom is true and you really have 50+ wheel horses I may be interested in coming to see that lol.

. This thing has oil leaks all over it. ~Duke That ain't oil leaking, it's preservation fluid.

Cleat, the Deere or Cub you refer to is not of the same line of GT's. Those are truly throw away mowers... Just becaue they do not last, the one's fron Lowes or Home Cheap-O, Deere and Cub are still cranking out quality GT's. You just have to go to a Deere or Case Impliment dealer to purchase 1. I was looking at a x595 the other day.... This is a used GT 2004 and the asking price is $9k... The "x" line of Deere is top notch... Drive on decks, quick release attachments.... And yes a steep price also. But then again so was Wheelhorse.

I just picked up this very clean Wheel Horse D250 tonight that also came with it the snowblower. Most likely going to sell the snowblower. As for the tractor runs great and the deck is also in awesome shape. Is the a D250 Club out there? Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

It finally stopped raining long enough to get the pics of the 312 Hydro I got last Saturday. Just got the new front tires on, it has the chrome hubcaps also, I have them in the basement trying to get the rust off.

Hey everyone, this Spring begins the 4th season with my 1964 model 854! I have done the traditional annual spring maintenance every year, oil change, general lube and tuneup, but this Spring she needs a bit more.. Last fall near the end of the season (I dont use the tractor in the winter) she began running rough.. wants to stall out..I think she needs a really good fuel system cleanse and carb cleaning.. I have only done one carb clean in my life, on my 1971 Ariens snowblower with Tecumseh engine.. the Kohler carb on the WH looks rather different..so! questions: 1. Is there a "carb rebuild kit" I can get? new gaskets, needles, etc. The engine is the original 1964 Kohler K181, and as far as I know, its the original carb too. (I can post photos of the carb if that would be helpful) 2. Any helpful carb cleaning videos or such? anything specific to watch out for? 3. What exactly is the sediment bowl? and how does it work? it collects larger particles from the gas I suppose? Im going to take that apart and clean it as well.. 4. Should I install a fuel filter? if so, what kind? and where? My 854 is 50 years old this Spring! I want to keep her going for another 50.. thanks, Scot

I tightened up the pedal underneath the hatch in the tunnel. That helped immensely. I tightened up where the tie rods clamp onto the spindles, that helped a bunch with the sloppy steering. Tomorrow will come the cam adjustment.

Just received my May/June issue of Lawn & Garden Tractor magazine and read the article by Scott explaining this new club to the readers. Scott, you have done a wonderful thing for these kids, and the folks that have helped with donations are also top notch! Thanks for your good work. No wonder your Fall M & G is well attended, as you are the best!

I pulled off the vinyl and foam and migged 1/4 bar stock inside and tapped with fine thread to make this seat fit the brackets on my project tractor. I think either of your ways will work.

Many of us just wire wheel them down to bare metal... then coat a couple times through out the mowing season with used motor oil.

Hey all does anyone know if this is a wheel horse generator or did someone just put the decals on it.

You live in Buffalo and are selling the snowblower???????

I've done the truck bed liner on mine but if I had it to do again I would use van sickle easy slide its a graphite coating that keeps grass and water from sticking to what ever you put it on its supposed to be great stuff

Nice looking tractor! Just curious, are the D-250 attachments specific to the D-250 or can the other D series use them. All of the D-250s that I have seen have been without attachments. I am thinking how the 5xi are specific to that model. In 1975, I bought my AMC Hornet Sportabout for that same price!

I just bought a new belt for the 5xi 48" mower last Fall on eBay. It was a Toro dealer and I only paid $53.00 with free shipping. For sure, jump on attachments when they are found - reasonably priced.

Cutlass3391, Very nice looking 250. Like the hours mine has 980 hours on it. The 1976 model was $4195.00 new. Marv

I think its the real deal. Wheel horse didn't make a generator, they just contracted with Generac, shot em red and slapped on a decal. Mike..........

Well Scot, if you have never did any fuel system maintenance, now would be the time... No sense in rebuilding the crab ,then have bad fuel lines causing problems down the road. Your 1st questions is yes, carb kits are available from most mower venders & also on fleebay I would also buy 3-4 ft of 1/4 in fuel line,new clamps,a couple cans of carb cleaner and if you want to add a filter ( which isn't a bad idea ) that too. Is your sediment bowl mounted under the tank ? thats where its on my 753, you can remove the glass bowl to clean the screen. Drain all the gas out, so you can see in the bottom of the gas tank to check for debris, Do you have an air compressor? that would be a big help to blow everything out Unbolt the carb ,noting how the linkage & cables are attached Once you have a carb kit you can dissassy & clean with the carb cleaner & blow it out, all the the little holes. If you go to YouTube, I'm sure someone has a video of the rebuild, not that hard Once you have the carb back on , run new line & clamps, You can put the in-line filter at the most convenient spot not to hinder fuel flow.

Just put the seal in the same depth as the old one. Don't overthink this procedure. Only when the crankshaft has an excess groove will you then try to move the seal to a different depth.

Or in the mails morning, its going on Sunday. Thanks !!!!

They are a couple of good guys! And I know where they get it from, I met their dad! Now, talk about a hoot. That man has some stories!!! Great people is what makes this hobby even better!

Working on getting your manuals posted Illustrated parts list Garry

We have a high end cub at work (They used to have a 520 with the 2 stage blower but now I have it ) and after 3 years it is now on it's second blower because the first one got so bent and twisted that we just replaced it. Blower is made of really light gage metal, seat pan and hinge assembly is plastic and has broken twice. Machine is shaft drive and where shaft connects to engine flywheel is a plastic coupler that has literally exploded. I can go on about how corners were cut on this machine. Unit was purchased from a Cub dealer for over $12,000.00 with blower, wheel weights, and chains. Plusses are hydro drive, shaft drive (supposedly), power steering, engine runs smoothly. I do not expect this machine to be around in 20 years. Cleat

Scott's picking up something nice for the kids! Couldn't happen to a nicer guy and group!

Mike: (1) last thing to remember... If in deed you keep it, then start collecting wear and tear parts as they come up or you see them.... Yes, Toro will get them in, but the cost a mint... That mower belt from Toro is $80.00... I could have purchased (4) Deere belts for my 212 for that price, and that was from Deere. Same with attachments.. If you know you would like to add attachments, and you see what you want for sale, better jump on it quick. The attachments, like the GT, do not come up for sale often. It is like looking for a Morel mushroom. Once you find something you feel you have accomplished something great....

I talked to the guy who bought that tractor earlier today. He said it was in nice shape and that he was going to repair it because a member of his church needed a mower. I doubt he is a member here though.

The depth is shown in the Kohler manual, as is the explanation of how to install gaskets and shims to set the correct crankshaft end play.

Outstanding Scott! Looking forward to seeing you again.

Wheel Horse switched to ONAN engines in 1988 because they had more torque at lower RPM which was needed for the big 60 inch decks under the 520 Series tractors.

Great to hear. You coming alone or bringing some horses?

Terry, Looks like I will be attending with my dad again this year. I would love to have a magnet. Trying to make it work where my 5 year old can attend his first Wheel Horse show!

I think the 418 is the same as the117 except the engine name. very fine tractors darg

Isn't it amazing what guys paid for these tractors when new?? $3,-$4-,$5.000 for a little tractor 25 or more years ago when a dollar still had some value. And today, when we talk about how durable and long lasting they are, buyers brag about how little they pay, and sellers have to almost beg for scrap metal prices.

I think (I think) the switch to Onan ended the Kohler Magnum twin run in the Wheelhorse. I'd say a 18 hp Magnum twin powered Wheelhorse would be one of the great combo's Wheelhorse ever made.

417s were produced in 2 years

Thanks so much Steve (and Big Mike). Yes, I'll be using this thread. I deviated with a posting in the transmission section due to the content of the post but I should have left it here. As soon as I get the word back I'm going to post another source for the bronze axle bushings. I got them in just two days and he's great to deal with. A little cheaper than Motion but a bit more than ASB. Not that they are hard to find but just another option and this guy has about any size needed. As I wait for all the parts to get here I degreased the frame and then stripped the paint this morning. I used my old standbys Simple Green and then Easy Off. Easy Off works best on a warm to hot surface. No problem here in the Florida sun . I decided to make an e-tank. Really more for the fun of it but it's nice for many of the parts. Rick, yes, I mentioned New York. The guy I got the tractor from is a snowbird from the upstate area. He was getting ready to head back when he listed it.

I can't answer your questions, but the 418 is one of my favorites for sure. The last one I had was very clean well kept and I used my tiller with it. That thing was so smooth and sounded great, I am always looking for those.

Funny, I had a guy over to my house last night purchasing a few things and we got to talking about Cub vs Wheel Horse. I used to be a Cub guy exclusively so I know my way around them. The fella I was talking with is a Cub guy. We really got into talking about the attachments of each brand and the ease of attachment of implements to each brand. He completely agreed with me that to install some implements on a Cub Cadet is a royal pain. I had my sons 854 in the garage with a snow blade on it that I was showing him. He couldn't believe the blade angled from the seat! He also liked the long sub frame and how it attached to the rear diff. Cub snow blades are quite heavy and don't angle from the seat. Its like the designers fell asleep half way thru designing their blades and didn't finish the job. I always got tired of having to get off the tractor to pull the pin and angle the blade manually. I wound up designing a way to angle the blade from the seat on a Cub myself.. I then showed him how fast that snow blade comes off. Again, he couldn't believe it. Next I showed him how fast I can install the mower deck under my 417 and have it ready to go. I really took my time on this as I know putting a deck under a Cub can be a real hassle so I had plenty of time too spare. It took me a little over a minute. He was speechless. Ease of installing attachments and how well a Wheel Horse pushes snow are the two reasons why roughly 15 yrs. ago I made the switch from Cub Cadet to Wheel Horse. To think if I didn't get that Wheel Horse that was included in a trade I made with a guy the switch might not ever have happened!

You may (probably) still have corrosion inside the fuse holder on the electrical contacts Although a direct short will take out a 30 amp fuse, the fuse element will blow or vaporize instantly. If the fuse body has melted, this indicates PROLONGED high temperatures near the fuse body, most likely from a high resistance in the fuse socket. The heat formed by the current running thru a resistance in the socket heats the socket and melts the fuse. Remember, a 50 watt soldering iron can generate 700+ degrees and draws less than 1 amp of current. So its not likely a simple overcharge issue will melt the fuse. Recheck the fuse holder terminals.

My Cart is now finished and done, now I'm making room for my next project that will arrive home on Saturday! Eeeek!

The only thing I can find is it is a 7/16"-20 x 4-3/4" bolt but the grade is not specified. If it has 3 marks on the head it will be Grade 5 and the torque is 55 ft. lbs. Garry

Just checking who's going only 4 weeks left I'm definitely in!