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Got a couple more shots this evening. Hope I don't get put in Dog house doe this but it's one Bad A$$ tractor. I apoligize but I call em' like I see em'!!! paint9.bmp

Put my starter that I bought at the "big show" last year on my rj58 today works pretty good..

my c125 is one of my favorites.....

Emptied the Workshop out for a clean and reshuffle, so drove the Horses around onto the Lawn for a Sunbathe and see how things are growing fast now- Look's like they won't have much work to do this year, so I'll just have to ride around on them

Going to Missouri in 2 weeks to pick up the family heirloom. My Dad bought this 641 Workmaster new in 1957. I was 7 years old when it was delivered and I was on Dad's lap driving it off the trailer. Can't wait to get it up here in Michigan.

Thanks to fellow member Shawn, aka Cutlas3391, I finally got my elusive black hood. I traded my GT-14 for a 1984 C-165. I think that she looks awesome. She is in pretty good shape and just needs a good cleaning, fresh gas and tune up. Shawn is a helluva guy and I just want to thank him again! Thanks bro! My plans are to give her a 10 foot resto; looks fine from 10 feet but not perfect up close. We are talking rattle cans and elbow grease! She will definitely be a worker.

Got my first black hood today traded a basket case 416-8 for it runs good I would like to see our guys first Meant your guys first

Welcome to the black hood club... you scored a really nice one there.

As much as I love the 312-8's, I would have to agree that a 418-A is a good replacement.

Looks like Black Hoods are the Spring Tractor this year. Here is my C165 right before i took the engine out to be rebuilt.

I see you got good taste in Wheel Horses Mike. The C165's are "Bucket List" Wheel Horses for sure. They really are pretty when all painted up and polished.

Update. I finally got back to the 857 this weekend. I have stripped the Majic paint off of the engine and it is ready for some real paint. I purchased some Van Sickle IH red, but I don't like the color, or the fact that it is an alkyd enamel. I thought I was getting acrylic enamel, but I failed to be specific when ordering, so my bad. If you are interested, it is in the classified section and on eBay. Anyway, today I power washed the frame and then decided to replace all the seals in the transmission. There was an extreme amount of oil and dirt and grass caked to the bottom of the tranny, and only about a quart of oil drained out, so I figured there must be a leaky seal. So, I got out the hub puller and started to remove the left hub which I suspected had the bad seal. Now usually the hub that has a bad seal behind it come off fairly easily, but nooooo. This one fought me until it broke. So, now with 1/3 of the hub broken off, the puller became worthless. It took 2 hours or sawzall and chisel work to bust the rest of this little baby off. The right side was also tough, but came off in one piece. No leaky seal found, and now I need a good 4996 hub. Monday I will remove the brake drum and input pulley. Back to the paint situation. Since this one is going to be my "toy" and not a show queen, I have finally decided to paint it with PPG Shop-Line acrylic enamel. This paint has much better coverage than the urethane, and at only $33.00/qt. it's a lot more economical. Picking it up on Monday, and if the weather stays nice for a while, I might even get the frame, transmission and engine painted this week. More to follow. Should have some pictures in the next update.

The one I missed out on.... lol Nice set up for sure !

Outside of a C195 IMO that set up with the single pumper big 16hp thumper would be my choice for sure. That is one that is on my want list.... Nice machine and she will make a great worker I am sure.

Like those tires, Jake. Lookin good!

Got to spend a little time on the ranger today....finally got it on all 4's again. Most of my time was in fixing previous mistakes of assembly...had to take the motor off again because I ran the oil drain on the wrong side, and also realized I put the dash on wrong again and its sitting a little sideways, but I think it will be ok..as there is a little play in the hood. Otherwise I basically have to take the whole tractor back apart which I really don't want to do even though I should. Found out my throttle cables don't match which was dissapointing when they came together as a set, so I will order one that will match the choke cable at a different date....anyways as far as good things I did get the belt guard, back wheels, fenders and started running the throttle cables. Here's a updated picture.

Just got my first one today. It's a 1984 C-165.

A good friend of mine always says that electrical devices operate on smoke, and when the smoke comes out of them, they are shot!

Man if that was close to me, Id buy it just for the tractor and the deck. Then throw a Briggs or Kohler on it. The deck looks clean. Deck alone would fetch 250 in my area. Nice looking machine.

I'd love to know what the inrush current of a compressor that has a running amp spec of 22 amps.!!

Thanks Duke, but make mine a Lambs Navy Thanks Wayne, I do use that trick, but I use a slab of brass instead... Some say that weld will stick to brass, I've never had a problem with it I like that Thanks Mark, that's a great compliment. Well, the fender pan didn't quite get finished as I said above.. It's not finished now but very close To hold the above big plate in place for welding and to stop it dropping through the hole, I welded a few tabs on... Like so. I forgot to take any photo's of that plate being welded on, but on the same day I discovered I had another rust problem!! I was wondering why my tobacco was drying out so fast Anyway, now for something pressing.. Making the missing indent bit that is used to bolt the fender pan down.. See what I mean by pressing I must of made about 8 of these, trying different thicknesses of metal, different strengths, different object to press them into, and finally different ways to cut the steel before pressing... Can you spot which one is the old indent bolt hole mount thingy? The trick to making your repairs look better than they are on camera is to give the metal a quick buzz over with a DA sander first A close up of the indent hole mount thingy. The underside still needs a bit of a tidy up, but it's not looking too bad.

I remember back in 2011 there was a thread on the C-162. TT provided "evidence" of it's existence in the form of a list. However, he later theorized that the mistake was made when someone said something like "that's a C-160 too ", thereby being misinterpreted as C-162. There have been no pictures of an actual decal (from Wheel Horse, not vinylguy) that shows the designation C-162 as far as I know.

Hi all finally got the D out and I made a short video hope you enjoy

This will help http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3494-tractor-1974-c-160-8-speed-details-attachmentspdf/ You can also search the Manuals library here at RS for 1-0385 Early on this engine was named an HH-160 but shortly after they changed it to OH-160 to distinguish between the flat head engines and the overhead valve engines. Garry

Back in the 70's when the leaded gas went away the early versions of unleaded gas octane boosting compounds attacked the plastic carburator floats of the day, the fix was either the older brass/copper floats or a new improved different compound of plastic float, typically a white plastic float replacing the early style black or dark brown floats. Like mentioned above the ethanol in the gasohol fuels corrodes the soft metals and also attracts moisture. the cure is to either run the fuel system dry after use or just use non gasohol fuels. Since bouts aren't required to use gasohol and their environment is wet marina's typically only pump non alcohol fuel, regular unleaded.

Looks good Jake.

Unleaded isn't the problem, ethanal will eat brass and sucks water into itself. Unleaded fuel without ethanal isn't hard to find around here. Not sure about down south

I actually have been thinking about trying something like that shorts but I don't have the equipment and don't know anybody that does. I talked to Steve yesterday and I'm going to attempt a different approach before I give up and sacrifice the axle. It's likely I won't have much time to play with it this coming week but I'll be on it the following week. It's also possible that a week of soaking might just do the trick as well.

the original K series were designed and developed before unleaded gas but they tolerate it reasonably well, the alcohol in modern fuels seems to be pretty corrosive to the white metal parts - fuel systems in particular, In my opinion finding "real gas" is worth the effort and cost. look online for real gas or check at your local marina or small airport.

What's the odds of getting the trans to hang in a 20T press, axle flange up so you could press the flange off the axle and then disassemble the trans the regular way? I'm sure that it would be a 2 or 3 person job to get the trans in position but it would be worth trying to save the parts. I'm sitting here visualizing the process, rais the press table to the top of the frame, stack junk tires and plywood up to the approximate height needed, insert trans on end with stubborn hub up, lower the table, install a proper bearing splitter or collar behind the hub and support in the press table, press the axle shaft out of the hub, let the junk tires and plywood catch the trans and then move it to the bench for disassembly. tip, I like to put a full size bakers sheet pan on the bench or floor to contain the grease mess that is inevitable during disassembly

Didn't spend a whole lot of time on the ranger today, but got the wiring done, and hooked the motor up and put the dash decal on. Also found a bronze bushing in my NOS parts that worked perfect so I spend most my time tearing it back apart to get the dash back off. lol. Not a whole lot left to do on it, will probably have to work at the farm tomorrow, but I think I can for sure have it going on sunday. Here's a couple more pictures.

worked on the hood. stripped the paint in our strip tank at work. then spent nearly 4 hours removing all the dents. after quite a bit of dent removal, lots of small ones all over, couple in the front right on the edge of the front and side were a bear to smooth out. also had one in the ribbed part of the front which i made up a flat bit of steel with a slightly curved edge to use as a mandrel to get out. smoothed all the worked metal with a 60 grit pad on a small angle die grinder. then 120 and 220 on a da sander..... then it was off to the blast cabinet to blend all the sanding. just a scotchbrite and should be good to go......

so you mowed the snow?

Sorry for the dbl post, too dumb to totally delete the first one.

Impressive! The only difference between what you're doing, and thee impossible, is, thee impossible is just a little bit harder. Mark.

Sure, rub it in Van.

Sure seems easy enough to transpose the 1 and the 2 when preparing the manual. 1200 suddenly becomes 2100 and the proof-reader missed it. If it were mine, I would go by what the Kohler manual says, not the owners manual.

Sounds to me like you have a serious flooding condition caused by a hole in the float. That is why when the bowl is removed, it appears to be working. But if it is filled with gas, it won't rise to close the float valve on it's own. Remove the float and see if it has a hole in it. If it does, fix or replace it. If it doesn't, go ahead and replace the float valve and gaskets. The #26 carburetor on the K241 is a pretty dependable one, and flooding is not usually a problem unless there is a condition as described.

I had a carb on a B-80 tractor that did just about the same thing. I took the carb off and removed the bowl -turning upside down to not to lose any parts, etc. The bowl had some yellow gunk down on the inside of the bottom of the bowl. When I inspected closer the yellow gunk appeared to be something like J.B> Weld that some previous owner had put in to cover holes in the bowl. Holes may have come from fuel, ethanol, sitting whatever -I don't know but I knew right away this was the problem I was having. The eight HP Kohler engine carbs are harder to find than the 10 but this might be one of the problems with yours!

There are tons of tie rods for different WH models on eBay http://www.ebay.com/bhp/wheel-horse-tie-rod I just purchased a new set for my Raider 12. They are better quality than the factory rods. You can sort of see them in this picture. I painted mine to match.

Hey Duke, If your going to the show I can have one of the CT guys bring that Wisconsin down!

enjoying the updates on this one, Duke. heres for the ignition being the main reason for the engine not running.

Looks like we are going to have to do a Panoramic for the group shot this year...or maybe a video with everyone saying Hi. Unbelievable Terry...what you mean to this hobby.

You guys can probably tell that the tractor has been painted by the photos in the gallery. I am going to throw a couple more out there for now and see maybe we can get some good weather and maybe a video who knows. As this process has been moving forward the words that I look for are like "awesome". How else would you desdribe it?

You may know this already, get some copper bar stock and clamp it under your weld joint. This will stop the melt threw. It takes the heat away faster. Very good repair......Wayne

Stig yer the Stig of all Stig's and being your doing such a great job, I think its time for me to Pour a Morgan and fully enjoy yer work! ~Duke

Very nice! These are 10 lb barbell plates. I had the same trouble with the valve stem.

Thanks, after a little research I found out there is a limit to uploads unless you become a supporter. I thought about just adding links but I just decided to become a supporter.

Spend your money fixing the k181 (right) Not just good enough for now. If you cant do it pay somebody to do it. Theres no reason it shouldnt start almost immediately when you hit the key. Even the pull start 181s start on a half pull most of the time. Its a tough little engine to beat and simple to maintain. If its wore to the point boring and reringing isnt a option used blocks are not that hard to find.