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Emptied the Workshop out for a clean and reshuffle, so drove the Horses around onto the Lawn for a Sunbathe and see how things are growing fast now- Look's like they won't have much work to do this year, so I'll just have to ride around on them

We had several snow falls this year. 4 I believe. The biggest dumped 9 wet inches. I used the solid arm to raise and lower the plow instead of the chain. I'm going back to the chain. The weight of the blade is heavy enough to keep the blade on the ground. Plus the chain allows the plow to follow the driveways contour better. I also love the rubber tire chains. The weight of the C-175 was enough to plow 9 inches with no problems. I wouldn't think a metal chain would be as good as these rubber ones. I took the tires with the rubber chains off and put on Deestone lug tires. Putting on the chains is a PITA. So now I just swap the tires out. Much easier. Yesterday I used a mold board plow to tear some ground up. I had the C-175 really grunting. The lug tires don't work as well plowing the fields as the rubber chains do. So I felt the rubber chains were the best on snow and in the dirt.

Even retired my better half makes sure I have limited time to play. I flushed out the tranny with some stuff I had on the shelf but won't use in the vehicles anymore. After draining the old fluid, dumped two quarts in, spun the tranny a fair amount and drained it. It may not have done much because it came out pretty clean. I'm thinking that I'll paint the frame and tranny together. The front end, hood and stand, motor, pedals, etc. are off. I was almost giddy as I easily removed the pulleys and the right hub. I was pretty sure the right side would come off easy because of the seal leak. Well, giddy turned to when I got to the left hub. Right now it's soaking and the puller has all the tension I should put on it. So far it's not budging. Tomorrow, if it doesn't free up, it's an impact wrench. I have a host of ideas, mostly from searches here. I have an NOS 3523 gear on the way that I know I'll need. Hopefully the original input gear or another one I have will be fine. I had hoped to know by now and have a complete list of needed parts.

I got a couple of spinners last year at the show . They only worked on the fat wheels.

Well, I will try to shed a little light on this: Substrand hydros you can use the axle's and differential in an 8-speed..Most of the substrands I have tore down have the 10-pinion or the 8-pinion differential in them and all are 1-1/8th axle..as for the rest of the internal on the Substrand hydros nothing else will work in the 4-8 speed tranny's..Not much on the inside of one.I have also come a cross a couple of the hydros that had the bevel gear differential in them also... As for inter-changeablility between the 4-8 speed trans..the shift forks..reverse idler and the 3-gear cluster will inter-change in all of them...some models you can also inter-change the 11-44 tooth pinon gear that turns the differential...You can also swap out the axles and differentials from a 1"axle 8-speed to a 1" axle 4-speed or vise-versa.... You also Have to take into consideration were the Brake hub mounts..older 4-speed trans the hub mounts on the 1" pinion shaft as with some of the 8-speed trans you find in Raiders..all the others mount on the 3/4 shaft located close to the front of the transmission..which can easily be changed by changing some bearings from capped to open..and swapping out brake shafts.... Their is so many little things you pick-up along the way by digging into them....One other thing to keep in mind if you have a newer trans I'm gonna say mid 80's they switched bearings as in the 1533 ball bearings..I have come across some 1"axle 8-speeds that use a different bearing in them and is the same bearing in the eaton hydros..you can use the differentials out of the Eatons as well but the differential end caps have to be turned down on a lathe to fit the 1533 bearings..Thats what I have been doing to build pulling trannys that will have the heavy 8-pinion differntials in them...As far as part numbers I am still working all that out in my spare time...It's easier for me to tell some one how to do it than explain typing and giving part numbers..So if any one has any questions please feel free to contact me...I hope some of this make sence.

During the couple of years I've had the 316 it's been undergoing a program of gradual improvement rather than a full on resto. The dashboard project began over a year ago with me sending some photos and dimensions to Mark for the decals. Didn't want the tractor out of action during the mowing season so perhaps in Autumn (Fall), which turned to Winter, and two dump cart restos later, finally Spring. The decals came with the dump cart order so having completed the trailers thought I'd best crack on with it or the tractor will be out mowing again. First thing was to test that the tachometer would work with the Onan, which it did, just needing to be calibrated against a hand held optical tacho (just out of view to the right). The next step was to fab a new dash panel from a piece of recycled WH. I really can't recall what it came from but it was the right thickness, the right width, and it was even possible to utilise two of the holes already in it. A bit of drilling, cutting, filing and painting later things were taking shape. My original intention was to reuse the engine hours meter and voltmeter but visually the original voltmeter looked out of place so I got a matching Durite voltmeter from the marine range. I also fitted a new ignition switch to replace the one that a PO had added a screw in eye to relace a lost key - result a key wouldn't operate the switch any longer. It was always going to be a tight fit but the measurements taken said it should. and it did (just) though adding the connections to the main wiring harness was challenging given my chunky mechanic's fingers (sometimes a blessing, sometimes a curse). The net result is, I think, good - just got to do the top panel with all the warning lights next but I suspect that will have to wait till Autumn now. Re the ignition switch, having had an aftermarket switch fail after little over a year on another tractor, I ve taken to getting these from the US. Choose the right supplier and even with shipping its no more expensive, and they're by the OEM, Indak - even have the correct letter codes for the terminals. Andy

Not a very big update, the boards are now painted a nice burgundy gloss, I'm still waiting for my (GOLD) decals and coach line to arrive, here's a few pictures. Here's a few other pictures,

Just back from camp tonight! This weekend goes by so fast! Few pics coming. We stayed on the native trout streams locally and did well using redfin minnows. (Black-nosed Dace). Did a selfie with an 18 inch Native Brown.

Did some discing in the garden. Didn't really accomplish anything but wasn't expecting to. I just wanted to do something with my 416-8 repowered with a new 20 horse Onan.

Hi Guys, I am new to the forum so please excuse my ignorance in where to post. I have used the search function trying to find a re-power alternative to my Wheel Horse "Air Horse" tactor / aircraft tug. I did not find what I was looking for so I am asking for some help. This is probably the best aircraft tug available today and I want to save it instead of selling it. It has a KT-17 and hydro drive. The hydraulic pump also drives the wheel lift and steering. I have not been able to make the KT17 run properly since purchasing it. I have changed the plugs, rebuilt the carb and set it according to the manual, changed the fuel filter, etc. Basically, it will not run unless the choke is on and then it runs poorly requiring varing choke and throttle positions. I either need to have an expert go through the engine and make it right or re-power it with something modern. I need reliability as this is used to move many aircraft on a tight schedule. While I am mechanically inclined, I just don't have the time to tinker with it right now. I would greatly appreciate a recommendation of a shop that could fix what I have or re-power this machine for me. I am not afraid to spend money on it and want it correct. I would prefer to take the whole machine to a shop and have it repaired at their shop. I live in NE Indiana (Auburn) and would be willing to travel 100 miles or so. Thank you in advance for your help!

I've owned a troybuilt for over 40 years and they were always great machines. i got a 312-8 last year after all the hype i heard about them, and a month ago i picked up a good tiller for it for $300. Well, i put it to the test today, and all i can say is, goodbye troybuilt !!! well i guess i'll will keep it to weed between the rows, but no more real work for it, i got a real tiller now.

Heading to camp in the morning. Have to scout for trout again. (Plus sample the keg of Lionshead)! Back on Tuesday fully refreshed with a liver full of new scars! Going after the native Browns on our wild trout stream Saturday morning then hitting the stocked streams later in the day! Here is a native Long Run Brown!

Those old walk BEE Hinds are so cool. They got some beauties on the other side of the pond. http://myoldmachine.com/topic/365-british-anzani-iron-horse-restoration/

Bring it to the meet and greet and we will get it tuned in.

Noise Makers, Chewing Gum, Poison Worms, All that stuff doesn't work. I know cause I've done everything and spent more money than you can shake a stick at. I had 6 of those Sweeney Mole Stakes that give off a shrill buzz. After I seen mole runs within inches of them I figured all the MOLES were doing was dancing! What I found that works is a Nash Mole Trap. I have 6 of them and have used with GREAT results EVERYTIME within 48 hrs or less. You want to know you killed em, using all that other non sense leaves you guessing. I killed 37 last year at different locations and made a few bucks at it too which has kinda taken the sting outta the crap I bought over the years that didn't work. Anyways After I catch em if they aren't dead I reward them by giving them Free swimming & diving lessons by dropping the trap in a 5 gal bucket "O" water! Jeesh I have yet to have one pass my swimming test! Then I hang them on a stick in the front yard so all their friends can see what happens if they show up at The Duke 'O' minium! ~Duke http://youtu.be/_SuqoKt06yg

Thanks for letting us know what it took to fix it! So many times a member will post a "problem" asking for help. Folks give their ideas for fixing the problem, but we never find out what helped! Knowing the repair will assist in diagnosing future problems from the computer screen. OK, I'm done.....

You didn't say what problem you are having. Many times the acceleration springs are bad and new ones will bring it back to life. The Raider, Electro and Chargers would all work, I don't think a "C" will. I did this type of change out about a year ago, mine were both gear to gear. Do a search on here for Hydro Gear output gear and you will find a tutorial I did on the subject. It was a half day job, but not too involved. You need to change the output gear because they are different to make up for the 15" vs. 12" rear tire size. As far as the moaning goes, I think they all do that. I know mine always has! Good luck.

I ordered a set of rubber chains last fall and love them. I have a set of steel chains and a set of cables, but even the cables will leave marks when you spin them. I do not mow with this tractor or drive on hard payment so I am thinking about leaving them on year round. Ron

no updates, we are painting some red tomorrow so some wheel horse stuff might get thrown up on the line, won't be much though..... i blasted some stuff tonight that i had sitting at work in my 'office', but other than that i haven't had time to get anything done. most of the powder i do at work gets done after hours on a line thats not running. we are busy at the moment and all six lines we have are going 16-24 hours a day. unless i go in on 3rd shift (which aint going to happen) theres just no time to get a line to myself. the red i can squeeze in when we are running customers parts in case red, but the black i chose, we don't do very often. i have a bunch of black parts sitting at work ready to paint but just can't get anywhere to do it. also, my job is flat out from the time i get there until i leave, so the motivation to stay back isn't always there either. and sitting on the couch with the dogs sounds good when i get home too... which is what I'm doing right now......

Not to be picky but how do you know if the spindles are good if there is no PTO shaft to run it???? The PTO shaft is another hard to find item... I paid $300 for mine but it had the complete PTO shaft. Then i spent more on a top link, I do not have any pics of my rear mount on the D200 but here is a L59 on my Case VAC..shell and spindles are same as the WH version

Hey Bert: I must have missed it when you came on board. Welcome from Orange County NC. Also too, thank you for becoming a Supporter

it's junk, i'll just come pick it up lol. seriously they generally range from $300.00 and up i would love to find a usable because the 1 i have needs to much work if it is usable at all. but i have to many irons in the fire right now and no money if you know what i mean. good luck eric j

The lubrication chart calls for 90/140 for your 14-8. I would just go to Walmart and get a gallon jug of 85/140 for $12.76.

Inasmuch as your dash panel is already broken, remove it from the tractor...with the steering wheel in place. Break away the dash panel completely. If you cannot get the roll pin out, put the steering column and wheel in a 20-ton (+) press. You may have to wiggle it around some, depending on the style of hyd press you use. Be certain that the metal base (hub) of the wheel is FIRMLY bottomed out on a thick steel plate with a hole of close to 3/4" diameter...dia of the steering column. With the hyd press setup complete and STABLE, put a little nut on top of the shaft and press it down through the steering wheel. It will actually SHEER the roll pin and when it does, you'll hear a really really loud BANG. Continue to press the shaft until it drops out. Now you can punch out the 2 remaining pieces of the roll pin in the steering wheel, and the 3rd piece still in the steering coulmn.

hey guys just mounted up a toolbox and beer holder just an old ammo can and baked beans can quick and ez

How fast!!! eeeek.... :D

Thanks guys! I really appreciate it. Sorry haven't been on much. I have been very busy working and with finishing up my last semester at college. Not to mention the many other things that are going on in my life. There is definitely not enough hours in the day! I have not exactly been locating anything lately I haven't had the time. Plus I will be moving this summer as we have to sell my family's farm. Instead of collecting tractors due to moving and space issues, instead I have been buying firearms before more restrictions are put in place. But I've gotten some new additions in the last couple of months. I will share some pictures with you. (no firearms pictures) I got a new truck: Its a Chevrolet Crew Cab 2500 Diesel which I installed an Amsoil Bypass filter set up, and I run Amsoil motor oil. Duke. I got a new puppy:Shes a royal pain in the ass. She is a rottweiler pitbul mix, she is 5 months old and weighs almost 50 pounds. Shes actually a great dog but she thinks shes in charge, already breaking that train of thought and she doesn't like it. She likes to play rough with my lab who is 12 years old so we have to separate her on occasion. She plays fine with other dogs and puppies though

First ride of the strimmer bike!!!!! Not going to fast first of all then going slightly faster for a bit, works nice once the friction drive gets grip and the engine gets in its power band its like whooooooaaaaaaaaa!!! (friction drive kicked in yo!) ((Honda reference) I'm going some time to a huge field near me and people take there bikes there all the time so ill see you then, meanwhile enjoy this little 1 minute video. James

The projects have priority...neat idea though. Have fun, be safe, wear a helmet on your tater.

Thanks you could either make one or pay me! (its fairly easy to make) James

OK...now I want one.

Good work!! Seems like a cool idea! Seems like it would do better with a clutch... most straight shaft trimmers have a centrifugal clutch, not sure of any curved shaft models that do....

Neil, Don't let anyone arrange your sleeping locations!

The grass is finally growing here and I had the chance to mow with my 520H for the first time. I bought this 520H last year in pretty rough condition and have been restoring it since (I use that term loosely as its not on par with many of the restorations I see here Heres some pics of the tractor and deck when I bought it And how it looks now: I honestly didn't have much hope for the deck, the metal had a few rust holes and welded plates when I bought it. However, the spindles were in good shape with no noise so I tried to salvage it. I used JB welt to patch the holes, we'll see how it holds up. The engine itself runs great, smokes a little when you throttle it up but doesn't smoke when running and doesn't seem to burn large amounts of oil so hopefully it has some good life left. I have to say that Onan and 60" deck sound pretty awesome when running. My neighbor came outside just to comment on how cool it sounded. Now I just need a new seat, but it has to earn it first

Yep . . . 2" morters will do it

Neil - are you into railroading at all? The B&O (Baltimore & Ohio) Railroad has an excellent museum in Baltimore. We used to have a family pass to take the first grandson there when he was totally into trains, then we dropped it when his interests went elsewhere. I still love the place. Link: http://www.borail.org/ The Baltimore Orioles (major league baseball) will be having a home stand the week of June 22 through July 3. Three games against the Chicago White Sox, three games against the Tampa Bay Rays, and four games against the Texas Rangers. Link: http://baltimore.orioles.mlb.com/index.jsp?c_id=bal There's always something to see in Gettysburg Link: http://www.nps.gov/gett/planyourvisit/index.htm or Antietam Battle Field Link: http://www.nps.gov/anti/index.htm Baltimore has one of the best Aquariums in the States Link: http://www.aqua.org/ There are so many other things to do in Baltimore Link: https://www.google.com/#q=things+to+do+in+baltimore So, having said that, I will let those in other parts of the country post their ideas. Can't wait to see you at the show.

Being a C-85 owner.. you're exactly right, I lust for the 16hp Kohler.

The Pa. grand canyon just outside of Wellsboro,Pa.

Awesome score... one of the holy grail tractors.

Wait a a gosh darn minute there Mr. AMC!! There is a lean-to structure on the back of your shed. That's how you fit all those goodies in there!! "Ignore the man behind the curtain" Wiz of Oz Sigh! and we thought it was magic! Dennist: looks like the Coffee mate I put into my java this a.m.!

Frank...racinfool40 has used, good transmission parts...send him a PM. Do you know what part you need? A few pictures would help. He will be at the Mentone swap meet in 2 weeks if you want to come down. Actually, there are no clutch parts in the transmission...the tension pulley with the drive belt is your clutch. If your horse is 1976...it is either a Wheel Horse # 5091 or a Wheel Horse #103907...probably the difference in axle diameters...1" or 1 1/8". Wheel Horse called both of these...8 speed transmissions...they counted reverse times the hi/low. Just so you know when you talk to Mike. He will feel much better giving you parts if you talk the right language. Just so you know...there is no problem getting the parts for your trans...should be able to make it last another 80 years.

You could always go full Caddyshack and put c4 down the holes!

This is what produces the tapping noise that keeps the critters out of my yard. http://www.beeman.com/store/product.asp?ret_id=1240879&pid=66381

Trailer starting to look tip top now, please note... Although the sides look nice grey, that's just an undercoat base layer to seal the wood, that will be painted a different colour, From rags to riches

Matt, heres some more pics! couldn't sleep so i went back out and played around for a couple hours. put the engine back on the tractor, made sure all the wiring was good. bolted a few more things on. heres how it looks right now.....

got the flywheel bolted down, screen on. the oil filter and drip tray installed. heads installed with new bolts, replated washers and new gaskets, part # 110-3181. then it was time to build the engine harness. cut all my lengths first, i cut two of everything as i might make up another to sell. wire is 14 ga. tinned marine wire. started building it from the molex connector. crimped terminals on on end of all 9 wires that go to it and pushed them home in the connector. once i worked out where each wire went, i taped them off into their branches. used high temp fiberglass sheathing to cover the wire. then i started installing the harness to make sure the fit was good. ends of the fiberglass sheathing were covered with heat shrink to seal up the ends as well as stop the fiberglass from coming apart. i changed the ends of the oil sender harness to packard single terminal connectors instead of the non insulated push on terminals. installed blower housing and bracket for retrofit onan coil kit part #541-0522. coil, plug wires, regulator installed and wiring hooked up.....

85/140 is what the lubrication manual calls for, but I don't see why 140 wouldn't work well in summer weather. Might be a little stiff in winter.