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Just found this article in this months; "Farm Show" magazine: Excerpts from the article: "Hometown parades are a big draw in many rural communities, and Palmer Feldman and son Gordon have come up with a proven crowd pleaser. Their tractor 'horse' hitch features four Wheel Horse garden tractors that pull a covered wagon, with all the operations controlled from the wagon. The pulling is done by one hydrostatic drive tractor on back, while the other tractors just tag along. Steering is done using reins attached to the tie rods on all the tractors. We take it to parades every summer where it's always a big hit. People can't figure out how we control the tractors without anyone riging them. My son Gordon did most the work. All the tractors are equipped with Kohler engines. Three of them have 16hp engines and standard transmissions. The forth tractor has a 10hp engine and a hydrostatic transmission and is the only tractor used to drive the team. A boat cable runs from the tractors hydrostatic gearshift lever back to a lever mounted on the wagon. Covered wagons in the old days had a lever on one side to control the wagon's breaks, we're using that lever to operate the tractor's hydrostatic transmission. The operator steers by holding onto a pair of reins, which are attached to the tie rods on all four tractors. A pole runs forward from the wagon between the two sets of tractors, while a pair of crossbars connect the tractors from drawbar to drawbar. A tie rod extends from the pole to the outside of both front tractors. The reins run from a pair of pulleys mounted on the pole 3' ahead of the wagon, forward to the steering rod on each tractor. We alaready had the tractors because for years we operated a Wheel Horse dealership. (Palmer Feldman, 16543 Co. Road, Township, WI 54175). This magazine is a bi-monthly only about "Made it Myself" reader stories about home-made Farm & garden/yard equipment, there are usually 5-6 full pages on just Garden Tractor implements & modifications only, in each 44 page issue, most are very unique and original, and with no paid-ads, very basic and sincere. ( www.FarmShow.com ).

I purchased two solar battery chargers for my horses last fall. They went into use in October. This past weekend was my first time back. I'm happy to say both tractors started with ease. Well worth the $20 a piece @Northern Tool! http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200578629_200578629

Maybe its hope, maybe a little stupid, but today i pulled off the snowblower and started putting on the tiller. these broken ribs from the ice fall are making that a slow job, but what the heck, still have time to get it done.

First day of spring Thurs... caught some Daffodils peeking out here today.

Mine came apart twice Craig. The biggest thing with these recoils is you need to give them a nice and steady easy pull. Let the recoil catch, and then pull. NO YANKIN. You will also want your engine to be in perfect tune so its starts on ONE pull. If your engine is a hard starter ya better take care of that.. The K90 on my RJ 58 started on one pull after sitting all winter a few weeks ago... The handle on mine broke because the rubber was hard.. At least I think that is why.. I replaced the handle on mine with a 1950's Mercury outboard handle that I had laying around until I can find a new cable and handle that I can afford.

This one ought to be worth a buck or three:

First time posting a pic, so may take a few attempts. Attached is my 314A. If all goes well I will start to take apart to take down to metal to primer and paint within the next few days. I'm sure I'll have some questions to follow. Thanks Brian

Im sorry to hear buddy :/

Sold mine last year...$200.

Probably worth the $75 he's asking for it. I see he lives near me.

Probably about the same as on the FB page

Check this out...http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_consumer&mn=07-36TL03%2C+36%22+Tiller%2C+1989&dn=810370R2-70R20003-0002

Got the block cleaned up after being soaked in mineral spirits and blasted the head and oil pan. Will work on blasting the block tomorrow. Here's a couple pictures.

I have used 4 of them on my recoils now...all worked well.

So i found a gear box and fabed up a mount and it works!!! Now all i have left to do is fab up a guard for the angle box, paint, and wait for the weeds to grow.

I agree 100%! The first sign of WHA (Wheel Horse Addiction) is when you pick up a Horse to keep the Stallion company. One Horse dozin', one sweepin', one mowin', one tillin', another Horse culvatin', after another Stallion finishes plowin'. Don't forget one with a cart to pull the grand kids 'round in!

Just fast enough to empty your wallet

I know Glen Pettit offer the replacement Schnacke recoil handles, but I don't see them on his site... anyone seen/used one of his yet?

Yes sir, University of Toledo is right in the hunt with Minnesota. They play in the Minnesota region. These should be some good games. Toledo will probably get a chance to beat up on some Big 10 teams. Shall we say "Illini" for instance! Lol

I've used Bob before for hard to find bits and he will allways help if he can but also try posting on the forum as there are a number of us who have odds and ends left over from projects. Andy

Looking very good Andy (as expected). I can see you having some sort of liner in them when you use them ! ,..... or are they going to be on Light Duty Show Candy?.

heres a pic of what you are doing,i had to increase the screw size because of stripping,but a homemade screw will work

Ok here is what I believe will be on the trailers........ I will not throw out any prices as I need to go through some of the stuff first. Tractors: GT 2500 B-111 Possibly a Work Horse This list of tractors may grow within the next month Motors: 12 h.p. Kohler 6 h.p. Kohler Maybe a couple more and/or parts for more Snowblowers: Various blowers in all different conditions Mower decks: Many different conditions Hoping to have a few real good ones (42") that are ready to mow Snow plows: No long frames available but may have some springs, quadrants, angle levers, and some blades if I have room and there is interest. Currently working on some other deals and will update the list accordingly. Pictures will start to trickle in within the next couple of weeks. I believe my landscape trailer will be a "name your price" sale. I don't want any of it to come home......that means empty!!! I am willing to deal, so bring cash and let's have fun!

many thanks for all this input, I checked the dog point screw, and sure enough it had fallen out; as I put it back in and it fell into two parts, sheared clean through, and had been for some time it would seem. no chance of getting one soon this side of the pond so for tomorrow I set up a cap head screw in the lathe and will turn the end to suit. Cap head screws are quite hard so it should be up to the job. help is appreciated thanks again

Engine 30 wt sumer...10w-30 winter. Trans 10w-30 motor oil...BUT!!! check yours first. some older ones ran Type A ATF (Dexron) If the fluid is cherry red it is ATF. I do not think the effort of flushing te esystem to change over to motor oil is worth the effort. Other Sundstrands work just fine on ATF. Your call but do not mix them. Loader us 10w30 or 10w-40 motor oil. Filters were not included but I highly recommend you rig one up. The picture earlier in this thread is a very neat installation. Mine is not so neat but made with fittings I had on hand.

Here is a pic of the DOG-POINT screw and lock-nut.

here's the new flyer http://www.gmntcc.com/assets/Brochure2014.pdf

That's awesome Wayne. Ill be there next year.

If the set screw is good, firmly snug the point of the set screw into the small hole on the ball of the shifter and then back out 1/4 turn...tighten lock nut. I am assuming that you are in neutral...if not...move the shift forks until you are looking at a square formed when you look down the hole the shifter goes in. You can use a long screw driver to move the forks if you need to.

After looking at Hydro's adapter all you would have to do is cut a heavy gauge 2" tube on the same angle as the sears tractor and weld it on. Then add a boxed angle to the back of the sears plate for the lift arms, two 3" x 3" x 3/16" angles should do it. I would also add a bracket down to the WH tow hitch and add a bolt there. It might need a couple of triangle braces from the tube to the back of the sears plate can't tell from the picture where the 2" tube would be welded on. Cut the lift handle off and add another bracket for the WH lift to attach.

This is what I did to use the Sears 3pt.I basically recreated the rear frame of the Sears and moved it back so the lift handle would clear the fender. I wanted to get rid of the handle and fab a linkage to connect to the lift cable from the WH but never got around to it. Here's the link- http://

I know Zip about Hydros and Cat Linkage, so I have to along with Andy. The Stigian Fab work speaks for itself

A joy to watch and follow Ian Andy

I would be interested in an adaptor also. I have two sears 3 pt. hitches , one had the electric motor , which went bad. I have plow, disk and cultivator . I would like to use on my 418. Seams like to me that you could use the WH. plow bracket to connect to the sears draw bar and use the upper sears lift bar to raise and lower the unit. When the weather gets better I will see what I can come up with. Being I retired my old custom 10.

CURSE YOU RED BARON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Neil, myself did nothing but supply the pieces. Bob is truly a master at buildng these. This tractor conversation started a few years back at one of the shows were we hang out for a few days. He told me buy some tires we'll build one. He's well, what is he? Artist? Creative? Imaginative? Skilled? Talent? He's every bit of that and a whole lot more words could be used to describe him. Where do you start? I'm the lucky one here. The tractors Bob builds are How do you decribe? I know how I feel about this question but I am going to leave this question open to see what kind of responses I get. I say "Totally Awesome"

Most welding helmets today have the large window and are available with an auto dark feature with adjustable filter darkness, call me old school but I prefer the protection of the small lense, 2 x 4 inches helmet painted white on the outside to reflect the heat away from my face, I also use a #12 tint gold plated lense between plastic cover plates. The #12 tint is darker than standard but it helps protect my previously sensitized eyes, the gold also helps to reflect the light and also gives a red tint to the weld and arc which I find easier on my eyes, the plastic cover lenses are to protect the tinted glass lense from dirt and burns.