Leaderboard
-
in all areas
- All areas
- Markers
- Marker Comments
- Marker Reviews
- Articles
- Article Comments
- Article Reviews
- Classfieds
- Classified Comments
- Classified Reviews
- Wiki's
- Wiki Comments
- Wiki Reviews
- Blog Entries
- Blog Comments
- Images
- Image Comments
- Image Reviews
- Albums
- Album Comments
- Album Reviews
- Files
- File Comments
- File Reviews
- Posts
-
Custom Date
-
All time
November 28 2011 - September 25 2024
-
Year
September 25 2023 - September 25 2024
-
Month
August 25 2024 - September 25 2024
-
Week
September 18 2024 - September 25 2024
-
Today
September 25 2024
-
Custom Date
02/26/2014 - 02/26/2014
-
All time
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2014 in all areas
-
5 pointsSolution to pouring thinner from a metal can without sloping it everywhere. Cut a hole In the side of a plastic quart container. Fasten it on with a rubber o ring. Presto, hands free operation.
-
4 pointsUnfortunately we've seen this type of post happen many times in the past! Reminds me of the post a few years back by some new guy who said he ran into a woman, who's dad or grand father was a dealer in the early 50's and had a Senior, Junior and some others brand new in the crates. He was supposed to go back to look at them in a few days after posting. We all posted for weeks looking for an update and never heard another word. Until I see it, I will never believe it!
-
3 points
-
3 pointsI think somebody was having some fun at our expense. I hate to admit it but I sure was sucked in again. I couldn't wait to see an NOS in the crate 520….. UGH
-
2 pointsVery interesting progression is happening on My Old Machine (myoldmachine.com) with building a Wheel Horse from Scratch. This may be a topic worth following!
-
2 points
-
2 pointsIf you are mixing paint and dont like to spill thinner from those hard to pour from metal cans I have a solution. I took a plastic quart oil container and cut a 2" hole in the side, cut out the bottom and sliped an o ring over the spout. Presto, hands free operation of funnel and no mess!!
-
2 points
-
2 pointsOk please let me add my 2 cents here. I spoke to Cecil Pond directly and he said there was no exact wheel horse red. He said there were many variations in the color over the years as mixing paint was not the exact science it is today. I painted my c-121 with ppg two part epoxy primer, three coats sanded between coats, three coats of ppg red ( I have the code some where ) and three coats of clear. Cecil laughed and said he was pretty sure it didn't look like that when it left the factory! I then painted my c-161 with rustolium sunrise red and it is pretty close match at a third of the price. I just wet sanded the heck out of it till I practically had no finger prints! So like someone said earlier paint it a color you like. That will be your Wheel Horse red!
-
1 pointCame across these pics @ Thigh Highs, High Heels & Hot Rods Thought you you might enjoy them Craig... I did ... along with the Thigh Highs & High Heel pics...
-
1 point
-
1 pointThis is Navajho White (mixed) at ace to match rusto navajho white.
-
1 point
-
1 pointBy the time you buy the deck, bagger and blower you would easily be at or over $3300 though.
-
1 pointI've used quite a few seats, high back, from Tractor Supply Co. $69 each but often on sale for $59l. They are on the shelf. Numerous threaded inserts for mounting in the steel pan. One set works to mount the seat on your Stallion. The "skin" is rubber and can be pealed off easily, put back on just as easy, waterproof, comfy enough.
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 pointI have not used the Navajo but have used the Canvas White. Looks real close to some wheels I had.
-
1 pointLooks Good!! I too have good results with red cider vinegar. I just pulled the drive pulley out and the rust is gone. And Welcome!!!!!!!!!
-
1 pointKeep up the good work. Can't wait to see the next update. Been so cold and snowy here that I haven't been able to do anything this winter when it comes to my horses. It's nice to see someone else is making a little progress.
-
1 pointSorry it's taken so long to put my progress up. I've been sick for a while and haven't done much with it, but i'll give a progress update. I've pretty much made a mess of the shop. Parts laying everywhere waiting for spring and good painting weather. I've had to do some body work. The drive pulley on the tranny was bent (Don't ask me how) and it did this to the drive belt shield. So now i need a new drive pulley. Anyone know if i can get that at an autoparts store. My dad thought it would be difficult getting one since it's a 3/4 inch bore and keyed. Any thoughts would be nice. The fenders were pitted under the seat so i got that all patched up. We did have some warmer weather last week. And by warmer i mean above freezing. lol So i was able to finally degrease the engine and wash the frame off before i started working in those. So to make myself smile and feel like a serious transition from rust bucket to thing of beauty is happening, I painted the black parts lol. By the way i lost the battle on the steering wheel and gave up. I thought i was going to break it on the 20 ton press and that was my last resort so i have a game plant to paint it now it's just going to be a little more difficult. I also ordered the decals today and am waiting like a kid on christmas for those. Terry from redo your horse makes such excellent decals! Also needed a seat so i ordered one of those michigan style low back seats. If i would have had the original seat frame i would've gone with a cover like i saw someone selling on here, but i didn't. So hopefully come the end of the week i'll have this thing completely ready for paint. And yes i'm procrastinating doing the wheels......because i strongly dislike doing wheels.
-
1 pointI put oil in clean dish soap/washing bottles (I prefer the ones with pop top vs the ones that stay attached at the side - ask your wives if you don't know what I mean). Then when its time to fill an engine or tranny, you don't need a funnel, as put the top near the opening and pop it open.
-
1 pointI have a C-125 with a good running K301 and (98% sure) an 8 pinion rear. There is some body rust, but if you are looking for a puller that you will be modifying its a great starting point. Send me a PM if interested.
-
1 pointI have not but I have used Canvas White which is also a Rustoleum color.
-
1 point
-
1 pointThat is a great idea. Why don't you re-post this info in the thread ""?
-
1 pointRe engine paint color of the KT17 - I have 2 of them on C-175s with different colors, one is what appears to flat black (or maybe sun faded black?) and the other is a grey (like I've seen on replacement engines?) The grey one seem to have the K17 front cylinder 'syndrome' , but the black one is OK. Ill be rebuilding the black one and am wondering what color? Pickle what decided your dark grey color? By the way, your nicely documented rebuild has encouraged me to tackle my rebuild, thanks... Bill
-
1 pointWhat does the tractor look like? I understand the meter is not working, but does it look clean? I'll echo what others have said about the Kawasaki liquid 20 being a potential liability. Kohler Commands are fabulous engines in any flavor though. I can't remember if all the 520xi's came with power steering, if this one does and its in good shape, I would jump on it. Pretty sure yours will have a 52" deck, they didn't make a 54". I own a 522xi and have the dump from seat bagger and a 52" deck. I used to have the 42" SS snowthrower attachment as well, but it was overkill for what I have to clear, so I sold that attachment off. The 52" mower does a very nice job, and the leaf vac attachment has proven invaluable in the fall. Those dump from seat baggers are very rare. I drove quite a qways to score mine from an implement dealer in Iowa. He separated it from a machine he had in his inventory and sold it to me. If yours has the same bagger I am running (pic below) its the rare one.
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 pointI got 2 of the first pic and they work very well. The 2nd pic I have 1 of and it's the best most comfortable tractor seat I ever used. It's endorsed by Fitz M'Tush and Mike Kiester!
-
1 pointJust mounted a 7-1311 to a c-121 8 speed. This was definetly not a tach-a-matic implement ! I hoped this unit would just bolt up, hook up the belt and I would be done, not quite. I had to remove the drive pulley on the jack shaft and replace it with an offset double pulley to get the belt to line up with the outer pulley on the engine. After looking at Grainger, McMaster-Car, etc i found the one I needed in my neighbors basement! He's got stuff if you know what I mean! Next I removed the idler pulley and the shaft the pedal pivots on. Replaced that with a longer shaft to get the idler pulley out far enough and now have that spring loaded for tension and use the tractor pto engage/disengage. Then I had to bend / adjust the lift bar to make it work. Now I am worried that the outside pulley is not small enough and may cause it to run too fast. The offset pulley I put on the bottom shaft is a half inch bigger then the factory one so probably won't make a huge difference. Has anyone else mounted one of these on a C-series or 3,4,500 Series? Funny thing is I just went through all this and don't have a damn thing to sickle bar mow !!!
-
1 pointOne of our members, Cable, usually has one of his for sale. PM him and see if you can work out a deal. He's only a couple of hours from you.
-
1 pointI'm sure they're out there. Past member RickV had a bunch of NOS tractors which have since been sold off at auction. Wether or not the new owners oiled and fueled them is yet to be seen. If Rick could find them i'm sure there is more. If you watch shows like American Pickers you see a teeny tiny glimpse of whats out there hidden in forgotten about homes, garages, warehouses, sheds and barns all across America. My family and I spent six weeks three years ago camping across the country. I almost got whiplash looking at all the abandon buildings, homes and barns on almost every road we where on. Definitely makes you wonder!
-
1 pointI have been riding the 417A around the yard and took it for a 1/2 mile road trip with the mower deck running. It seems to be doing fine. I made two videos but not certain that I can upload them here, so I'll post one more picture while I try to figure out how to get the video to transfer.
-
1 point
-
1 pointI agree with Brandon, I think your expectations would not be met with a tractor/blower combo.
-
1 pointnice saw, mate of mine has an old dolmar and that thing is a absolute beast! 30" blade big spikes at the machine for gripping the tree Koen
-
1 pointShould do a" caption this" on the pic of the car hanging. I'll go first. " Well boys, do we put a Ford or a Chrysler trannie in this one?"
-
1 pointHaving worked for a toro dealer, they usually put in an order in every week, so to charge shipping is BS... IMHO
-
1 pointIf it's just for looking around, the iPad is fine, but being interactive I find it cumbersome to use. For me it's not going to replace my Macbook!
-
1 point
-
1 pointAmazes me how many people come along. 1st time posters, asking questions and advice on things they know nothing about. The dam shame of it is,,,,,,,,,whats it take of them to say, THANK YOU. My feelings to me anyway.
-
1 pointIf you must have a 2 stage as stated above 16hp or more, I recommend a machine with hyd lift also, a 520 would be perfect. Some older machines in nice shape are still worth a few thousand $$ with attachments, have you priced a comparable machine ?? not a box store unit a real GT go to a JD dealer price a 425 or the likes with a blower, weights, chains and a deck I bet your at $9k easy so yes a low hour nice well kept unit is still a $2k machine with attachments, a bare tractor nice under 500 hours will run in the $800-1200 range add a nice deck $200-300 add a blower $200-300 a 2 stage blower $500-700 chains and weights $100-150 a cab $200-300 if your talking a XI series add about $500 to the bare tractor and at least $100 to each attachment. The 520 you have pictured above if it's as nice as it looks and under 400 hours it is a $1000 to 1500 machine, and if it has a deck even more so, I see weights and chains so I assume it has a plow or blower?? if it has a deck and snow attachment it is worth all of $1400 but I would offer $1000 and work up. As was said above you can't buy much new for $1400 now days, cheap throw away box store stuff, that in 10 years with good up keep is nearing the end of it's life, a good unit can last a lift time with care and maintenance.
-
1 pointKeep in mind, the XI series requires its own attachments. The Cs and numbered 300, 400 500 are interchangable
-
1 pointHe wants 1400 obo on that one, its got a little less than 500 hrs on it. All I can say is that you can barely buy Sears cheapest tractor for a grand. That 520 was probably all of 5 grand when it was new. There is always gonna be a guy that says its only worth 700.00. Alot of guys are looking for a 520 at the moment (myself included) All I can say is if you find something, especially if its on Craigslist you better act quick....A good low hr. 520 is your best bet for running a two stage.
-
1 pointI have always wanted a 4WD diesel and I finally splurged and got one. This one was used (2006) with 398 hours. Hope to add a loader soon. Thad
-
1 pointThis is the best Wheel Horse tractors, attachments and parts Swap Meet of the year -every year. I have been going for five years. It is held in the Mentone, Town Park. About 200 people or more every year. If you have some stuff to sell or need a part this is a great place. Plus you get to meet a lot of Wheel Horse collectors, etc. New parts too!
-
1 point
-
1 point