Leaderboard

Hello! I joined this forum pretty recently and I'm probably not the typical forum visitor. I build scale models - usually 1/25 cars - and I've been working on an Electro 12 model. BTW, many of the model cars that I build are my favorite car and another South Bend native - Studebakers. I found this site while searching online for reference photos and manuals. It's a great place with a lot of excellent resources. Reminds me a lot of the Studebaker Drivers Club forum where the members have always been very supportive of my model building. Makes me want to have a real Wheel Horse (and a Studebaker). Anyway, this is where it all started: Probably not many people are more interested in the Wheel Horse than they are in the Indy Car but I'm building the tractor and may never build the car. The tractor in the kit appears to be Charger but after looking over this forum for a while I decided to convert it to the Charger's cousin - a 1969 Electro 12. I had already built the engine as it came in the box but I realized it wasn't correct for this tractor. This is what the first build-up looked like: So I stripped the paint off and did a conversion: The next order of business was building a mower deck since the kit didn't have one and what good is a Wheel Horse without it! I downloaded the manual for a 5-1422 (Thank you, Forum!) and started scratchbuilding. This has been a lot of fun! Here are a few shots from the build-up and the finished mower: The paint is Duplicolor Bright Red which is a GM color. I bought some IH Red at Tractor Supply but didn't really like the drying properties of the paint. The GM Red matches it very well and in fact I brushed on a little of the IH color as touch-up paint in a few spots and can't see the difference. Duplicolor is my preferred paint. It dries fast and hard. There's certainly more to come. I hope you enjoy. Most of the other major components are under construction right now and will be ready to post soon.

If he is thinks the electrical gremlins of a 314 are a headache then he will really hate the 520!! Mike........

My next door neighbor has an MTD snow blower with a Tecumseh engine. The snow blower has not been started for 2 years, and when he tried to start it during the last snow, it failed. It would run with starter fluid, so I knew what the problem was. I took the carburetor off and found it to be totally gummed up. I tried my best to clean it. I spent about 3 hours on it and finally said the heck with it. I went on eBay and ordered a Chinese knock-off carburetor for $22.00 delivered. The carb arrived last week, and with today's temperatures hovering around 55, I decided there wouldn't be a better time to try it out. considering that 6" of snow is predicted for tonight and Monday. The carburetor was a direct fit. Bolted right up. I turned on the gas, one pull of the cord, and it fired right up and ran like a Kohler.

HI Guys, Thought I would finally put up some pictures of the rj I have been working on. I have had it together a few weeks, but today I finally manned up to put the decals on. lol. It still needs some stuff fixed on it, but it is complete and driving. I still have to fix my gas tank for it, borrowed one from my dad, and need to tear into the carburetor as it is leaking. The motor runs very well considering the only thing I did was paint it and put a carburetor kit in it. The trans make a little bit of a whine but it is not very much and the more I have driven it the quieter it has gotten, I'm very happy considering it was rusted solid....BAD. The only other thing I will need to fix is it the belt guard will not stop the belt so I have to start it in gear or grind the transmission...anybody have any advice on it? I'm running a NOS 29" belt with the correct pulleys but it has a repop belt guard. I am very happy with the way it looks though, here are some pictures of it from today. Thanks, Jake

Put the blower back together fri night and blew 8" of snow with it sat, and a final clean up of another 2-3" today still holding together, while it was down I built a extension for the turning handle, I built it 14" long so it is in the cab not in front of it, much better !!!!!

I think it a shame that folks would hesitate to put any old machine they have to work. I get the fact that they are quite old, but the technology is not such that anything on the machine that would break (except for the hood) could easily be replaced. Model A ford drivetrain parts are not in that short of supply, and guys that could repair anything related to an A can be found worldwide. Please understand my opinion is likely different than most since there have always been Model A's in my family and I have a fair knowledge and understanding of Model A's. My point being the mere fact that the tractors have Model A trans rear end etc as components of the machine should not scare guys away from working these tractors. Look at the Model A hobby, there are thousands of these cars all over the world still in use today. Folks tour their Model A's all over the country and put literally thousands of miles on these cars all the time. I just really hate to think of folks having machines or equipment they don't/won't readily put to work. Mind you I am not saying such machines should be worked like a dog, but rather yes, they should be used to mow or push snow or other such work from time to time in my mind. That is just my 2 cents, for me I have no real use for a machine or gun or whatever that I don't/can't/won't put to some sort of use or work, not abusive work, but some sort of constructive work. I will go visit a museum to see things so old their only use today is as a vision of a machine or tool of days gone by. Please accept my apology for anyone this post might offend as I have no interest in insulting any of my fellow members here, you all have nothing but my greatest respect regardless how you might choose to use or not use your machines or equipment. I am simply sharing my own personal opinion broadly speaking and not directed at ANY individual.

click on the pic

Agree with all those who suggested hearing protection. At age 56, an ex radio jock and over 30 years in manufacturing plus cutting firewood, running lawn equipment, shooting guns and listening to groups from Zeppelin to Alice In Chains in my cars at unbelievable levels, I blew my ears out. I went from being an audiophile with the best audio equipment to not hearing the difference between a Pioneer receiver with Bose 901's to a portable radio's output. I use them now but the damage is done. Do what you want to limit the decibels on your tractors but do yourself and all those around you right down to the waitresses and sales clerks you'll deal with later in life..........................ALWAYS USE HEARING PROTECTION AND START USING IT NOW!

This is the tractor my dad used to work around the yard.It's a 418-A with 572 hours showing on the meter.I got it after it had been sitting for about a year under his canopy.Got it home and charged the battery,added some good fuel and she fired right up.Got the old gas burnt out of it and she purrs like a tiger.Hope to do a full service on it and get it ready to start doing some more yard work here soon.Plan on building a 2" hitch for it and a major cleanup.Wiring for all the dash lights was gone when dad got it so Ill probably just make a new harness for it.Not sure if the circuit board is any good or not.Headlights work though,lol.

as said, going from 314 with wiring problems to a 520 is like jumping from the frying pan to the fire.

Hi Brandon, The Seniors were actually pre-Wheelhorse and are quite old. As Neil stated, the vast majority of folks who own them don't use them for anything other than preservation, education and parades! They had Ford Model A rear-ends and a tiny by today's comparisons +8 HP Wisconsin Motor on a three-speed transmission. They were big and heavy. You could compare them to the old Farmall Cubs. The old Farmall cubs looked big and tall and with their belly mower looked like they were ready to plow the north 40. However, they had tiny motors and compared to a modern compact or sub-compact tractor, they wouldn't hold a candle to them. The Farmall Cub and the Pond Seniors were big heavy powerful GARDEN and LARGE PLOT tractors "of their day" and their days were the 1940's and early 1950's. I know of one that the owner has now parked after years of plowing snow. I may or may not own it someday depending on the family wishes. I don't care if I have to push it in and out of my way, I would love to have it in my shed or garage. Its the history of the tractor that adds value of it for me. If you Google this tractor both on Redsquare and on the web, you'll learn more about them and their history.

I recently had this Senior imported to UK & i wouldnt dream of using it to work . I got this tractor solely to preserve the history of the tractor. I may use it to pull a trailer around the garden but thats about it , this is my pride & joy & so i have other tractors that are probabley less valuable that will do what i need to have done . If you want a tractor to do some real hard work then i would recommomend using the D 200 as they are a heavier tractor & will do more work hard than the senior , thats not to say that the senior isnt capable of doing its fair share of work This is just my opinion on these tractors , some may have a different view .

I know I've said this before, but you have an awesome eye for detail, and you set the bar high for quality work standards. I'm quite certain that no 8 speed ever left Wheel Horse looking that good! This really is going to be a beautiful machine. Matt

some more videos click on the pics and a link to the build of this blade

Many thanks to everybody for the very kind words and warm welcome to the forum. I didn't expect all this! I hope to get a lot done on the weekend so this is probably a good time to respond to some of the questions and comments. Is the spec plate painted or a tiny chrome and black decal. It's a homemade decal using the computer and inkjet printer. I make most of my own decals (all of them for this project) based on images that I find on the internet. After printing the decal I applied it to bit of adhesive backed aluminum foil and then to the engine. What did you use to build the deck? The deck is almost all made from various shapes of styrene stock available at most hobby shops. It took sheet stock, rods, tubes and quarter round of various sizes. There's also a little bit of 1/32" brass rod used. By the way, do you have any full size Wheel Horses? No. In fact, my lawn has so many obstacles that using a riding mower might be more trouble than it's worth. On the other hand, I could ride around the neighborhood on my Wheel Horse if I had one. I love cool mechanical devices and it would be a lot of fun to have an Electro or something. I have a hard time working on a full size one. MIne only has to look like it runs! What else have you built? Mostly cars in 1/25 scale and a few 1/32 scale. I love Studebakers but build lots of others, too. Here's a few samples: I call that one the "Cowboy Cadillac". 1963 Studebaker Avanti 1953 Studebaker Commander Starliner Customized 1953 Stude The "Slant Six Slingshot" 1934 Duesenberg Okay, I'm not showing you the ones that didn't turn out so well! Thanks again, everybody.

Like Van said, Hearing loss in nothing to mess around with. I was not very smart when I was younger and really didn't know much about hearing loss and even what ear plugs were. I don't really think you will be able to quiet a horse down enough that hearing protection isn't needed. Sure, you may be able to tolerate the noise but that doesn't mean your hearing isn't paying a price.There are many different kind of plugs and you should be able to find some you can live with - in my line of work it isn't an option. My favorite is the simple push in as they are quick to insert. Of course, this time of the year muffs aren't bad either.

Many things could be causing a long cranking session before it fires. It could be a points/ignition issue but for me it usually means it isn't getting fuel. A bad fuel pump, a seeping fuel line that drains back fuel from the carb, a dirty fuel filter, a clogged fuel screen in the tank, bad fuel lines, a plugged up fuel cap vent hole, etc, etc. The fuel issue could start in the carb itself or long before it. First things first......If you changed out your spark plug as you stated a month ago, pull it and take a good look at it. For as much as they cost, I would replace it and just see if that is the issue since it wasn't in there long and the issues started not long after it was installed. If you still have the problems...........close the shutoff valve under the fuel tank and pull the fuel line from the bottom of the tank. Make sure the valve actually shuts off the gas. (If it doesn't, change this shutoff valve)! If it does, hold a glass jar under the shutoff and open the valve. Make sure you have unobstructed flow from the tank to the jar. If you have a good flow, we move on! Next............if you have a fuel filter in the line before the fuel pump, or after the pump, change it! They are cheap and they will plug up. Especially in cold weather! Change the fuel filter if you have one installed! Next............pull the line from the pressure side of the fuel pump that connects to your carburetor and crank the engine making sure to hold the fuel line away from anything that may make it go boom or from loved ones that will make you go boom if they are hit with spurts of gasoline! The key here is to see "spurts of gasoline" that are substantially more than a dribble from the hose. (Which is how most old men pee). If you see spurts of gasoline, great! Whew..........OK! Now if everything checked out from the fuel tank to where we left off, you changed out the fuel filter if present and you put a new spark plug in the motor, we now know you are getting gasoline to the carb but it still is acting up and hard to start, then you know that you "MAY" have a carburetor issue. Get your trouble shooting to this point and if you have to delve into the carb, we can help you there! It isn't difficult. It is just best to make sure your fuel delivery is OK up to the carb before you start trouble shooting that or "other things". These other things being points, condenser, good spark, timing, etc. It's just best to do the cheap elementary things first that usually make up the majority of the issues seen in these tractors. Get back to us and I'll second the Seafoam additive! Seafoam is good stuff!

I had built one of these a few years ago so I could use a newer 42" SD deck on my 1056, but a member at my Yahoo group needed one, so I ended up selling it. It's actually nothing more than two 7 1/2 inch long pieces of 1/4" X 2" flat steel and a front hitch from a 1972/73 & newer WH, and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the OEM kit - which is practically extinct. This can also be used on the 1970/71 tractors just by cutting the back out of the hitch to clear the hood hinges and clearancing the top for the hood to open - or by completely removing the hood hinges from the front of the frame and using the pivot rod holes in the front hitch to attach the hood. (just like the later models) The hitch only sits out about 5/16" more than the newer tractors, so the OEM length deck drive belt can still be used. After a suitable front hitch is located, here is the procedure. The first step is to find some 1/4" X 2" flat steel and cut to a rough length of 7 1/2". Using the two front holes on the sides of the frame as a pattern, lay out, centerpunch, and drill two 3/8" holes in each piece: The upper corners on the back side of the hitch need clearanced for the hood hinge plate on the '65 to '69 tractors. I also ground the area at the bolster pin hole to clear the e clip. This particular front hitch is from a C-101. (Test fit the hitch by placing the 3/4" hole over the end of the bolster pin and holding it firmly against the axle mounting plate on the front of the frame): Bolt the side plates to the frame using flat washers as spacers: Locate the front hitch over the end of the bolster pin, push it back tight against the front frame plate, and clamp the three pieces together. (there should be a small gap between the hitch and the plates - it's a great place to lay a bead!) Verify that everything lines up correctly and tack weld the side plates to the hitch: Remove the 4 bolts, pull the hitch off the tractor, and finish welding. Grind the welds if they are ugly like mine, or just for a nice appearance. : Blast, prime, paint, powder coat, chrome plate, or whatever you desire, then reinstall the finished hitch to the frame. (without the "spacer" washers) : Snap the deck belt tensioner, snowthrower, etc. into the hitch just like on the "new" ones! : TA-DA! (The best part of the "TT" front hitch is that it stays together when removed from the tractor. )

Hi all, So 5 days ago now me and my dad set off for the 3 hour journey south to pick up the 856 from Ian (Stigian) I had bought off of him - thanks Ian for the refreshments, spare parts and for letting me and my dad have a nosey at your 6x6 project! I am quite lucky really as I only know of one other 856 in the UK which is owned by neil, so it's quite a rare piece! I bought it aiming to get it running use it for a bit, and then restore it and get rid of the awful green paint it currently has! However things didn't go as planned - when do they ever! - and it turns out the camshaft is broken so I need a new one of those, which isn't going to be easy to source. After speaking to a few people I may have laid my hands on one but it won't be a deffinate yes for a couple of weeks so in the mean time I have decided to build an e-tank and tear the 856 down completely and start to e-tank them, prime them and then paint. By the time that is all done I would hope to have a camshaft and have fitted it. Other than that I am really happy with it, it's really original other than the fuel tap I think. The front two wheels are original - one holds air the other doesn't however I am going to put a new tube in it. It has the original cigarette lighter which is quite amazing, and the spring in it still works! It also has a slot hitch on the back which I am still trying to free up, it will come eventually. Parked up for the night The next morning pre-wash Lifted it up to make life easier for me! After a good wash Engine after a wash The damage inside And as it stands now, and yes that is an old cement mixer tyre! It's just to I can roll it around easier Thanks, Tom

My Grandfather's old 416-H Some fresh gas, the battery from my ZTR, a tiny shot of starting fluid, and a turn of the key Been over 2 years since it ran! Warmed it up, and took it for a ride in the woods.... Ran pretty well, but rough.... plan to do all maintenance between now and spring. We're ready for some work now!

Oh, I did add tri-ribs to the front - steers nicely. Considering 520 gear reduction modification as well. Edwroy

More pics of modifications. Edwroy

that was a great save

So I brought this one home a couple weeks ago. Trying to get it running, have never had a briggs before. Does anyone have a picture of the cab linkage? Then what do I do with it? I have too many, is it worth anything complete? or do I part it out? It's kind of an odd duck, can't imagine there is any rarity to it. HELP

Craig, i was curious myself. Here is the results of a search. http://vintagewheelhorses.com/attachments-and-accessories.html Would love to have something similar on the back of a D to run a brush cutter as the 2000 pto cutters are so hard to find.

Never been a good speller Craig! Anyway here he is. I just need to order the new gauges to assemble the dash, assemble the throttle assembly and fab a battery box. When it gets warm the front bumper will get a make over. The Kubota in the background burned up it's pto clutch in about 50 hrs due to lack of hyd pressure from the factory, may have to split that one and fix it due to Kubota's attitude.

Terry, Bring that bucket to the Big Show and I'm sure it will be empty real quick!

Here's a couple pic's to try to show the depth a little better.

Neil, That is a beautiful machine and I doubt I could bring myself to even get that one dirty. Thanks for the insight guys. I have seen some in parade videos and show pictures but not in the field working. There may be some videos/film around somewhere but cell phone cameras and youtube weren't around in the 50's and 60's. Truth be told, even though under powered compared to todays garden tractors they were likely very capable as usually the limiting factor as to what a GT can do is not the HP but the size/weight/traction. My guess when starting this post was that there weren't many (other than the old timers) that actually know what the Sr's are capable of as (those that have them) are fearful of pushing the envelope to see what they can actually do compared to our modern Horses that get tested to their limits regularly. Please don't take this as a challenge but I'm still waiting to see the "Hey look at what my Senior can do" video. I think if were going to get that video we all need to be pointing Craig in the right direction every time we come across one! I bet he wouldn't mind that one bit!

I'll definitely be working mine, when I get it.

Rather than the C-160 I would move up to a C-125, C-145 or a C-165 hydro. That way you get the Eaton 1100 with hydraulic lift with the Kohler K series under the hood. Mike..........

Do you have any way to check pressure? Your pumps GPM may be more than your valve can flow and you are poping the relief valve. Second thought is the suction hose large enough to feed the pump causing cavitation.

I couldnt do the sort of speed that these guys do , i get scared when im driving my tractor LOL

Dont let your friends di Do not take any notice of what your friends are saying about you or your tractors , you have entered into a wonderful hobby that will give you years of pleasure , knowledge & know how . I guess your friends think you should spend your money on the latest X box or something . well this time next year Xbox will be out of date & you will probabley have to spend hundreds of pounds to get the next latest gadget game console thingy . stay with your tractors Enjoy what you are doing & you will get a massive amount of satisfaction at what you will acheive . so take no notice guys you are doing the right thing . & if you are having fun in what you are doing then that is the main thing

I have two road legal horses. It's harder to do now as they've closed down the regional offices, I used to go in with all the docs, photos, proof of age from Toro and they would give me an age related plate. It's all done by post now, and somehow I don't think it will be as simple........

Number plate, how is it road Legal Also I'm the same age as you and my friends think I'm a bit where when you could spend your money on something else and I quote from them 'a stupid tractor' which there not, wheel horses are lovely machine and as I'm interested in engineering it's a hobby to stoic it down and do it up

I think any price is cheap if you want it.... For example I purchased my wheel horse for a very reasonable price, however I've spent what I payed for it and some... for little bits and pieces like number plate, stickers, all new tyres. (Snow plough) etc, All in all, with it how it is now, even down to the new head gasket,(including snow plough and tipping trailer) my raider 10 owes me £496.43 exactly, now to me, I'm happy with that and I think that's reasonable price, however some of my mates think I'm stupid and say,.. Think of the things you could do with that! Everybody has there own opinion on what's cheap, expensive, and reasonable.. For example, Neil imported a ride away Sr. From the USA Now I bet that cost a few Bob. But too him, it's what he wanted so it's priceless, If you're buying it too sell it on, you want it for as cheap as possible, if you want it because you really like it, it shouldn't matter what you pay,

I agree, those tires look like they will bite. Great score and glad you saved the D. Heck, the three point and PTO are worth what you gave for everything!

Beautiful work!

Car in the background is my baby. It is a 1986 Mustang GT convertible. It currently has around 63,000Km on it and is all original except tires and battery. Cleat

Thanks everyone for the tips and info on the small bit of missing items!I mounted it on my commando 8 and it fit perfect.The 5 inch pulley is stuck on the Jack shaft and its not lined up with the engine/clutch pulley and no amount of heat or pullers will coax it off so out comes the porta band.I loaned the whole rig to a friend of mine that's been good to me in trades in the past and he has a nice little farm and can use it.When I told him I got it his monotone voice got higher and he got giddy like I did so I told him he could buy it all for a dollar and store it in the barn.I took it to him this morning and he was so happy.Tried to Gove me his 314A Nice tractor to but he agreed to the dollar exchange.The next time I see it it'll be shining like New!And I will have to cough up a buck when he's over the thrill of it!

Amen Van. Marvin

Hers the wheelie bars all paintes

Most auto parts stores will have or can get the bushings. Talk with the oldest person there, It's in their Primeline catalog.

Posting pictures becomes simple if you become a supporter.

Thanks all! Forgot the before picture....

Well I took a few to see what is what, and the XI parts will not fit, so I tore apart this one, I need to clean the JB weld off and drill some holes to weld the ring back on, the shop is warming up right now. More later

Gas tank/rear fender mount painted and back together.

This particular Trojan MK 3 doesnt belong to me but it shows some of the attachments that can be fitted. Not all of mine are in a running condition , i hope to get them restored one day . They are highly desirable here in Uk and a fully restored one sold at a private auction for £2500 just over $4.500

Boy, I really like that!!! OK, soon as I get off this overtime schedule I'll take some pics of the Mahindra. Thank you so much for showing me what this will look like