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Everyone is aware of the bad rap Techys fuel delivery systems have... so, just wanted to give everybody a heads up to the brand new, $27 (gotta be)off shore manufactured carbs now being offered on Ebay. I took a chance, popped for one and I gotta say how great my little HH-60 is running now. These carbs are well made, and fully adjustable too, but no need, that thing purred like a kitten straight out of the box. Plus, they got them priced so cheap now...it's not even worth messing around rebuilding, then tuning one anymore. Seems there may be no excuse for a poorly running Techy with carb issues anymore.

Thanks, I mic all our crankshafts, most camshafts, and test any and everything that can be tested. I do sell a bad part occasionally, but not very many any more. I got pretty good at seeing a bad part. I can listen to an engine and tell you what is wrong with it (in person - doesn't work well over the phone or internet) and can look at a tractor and tell you pretty quick what parts are bad before even taking them off. I love what I do, I love tractors, and I love the customers (most of them - some not so much).

I've started the rebuild of my RJ58 and the CBR32 sickle bar that fits it. I've been collecting parts for it for a few years so I thought I'd get started on it. I didn't take many pics of the tear down, mostly just close ups for reference. I've got the engine tore down and cleaned up, ready to go to the machine shop. This one will get bored .010 and the crank will be turned .010. I got the parts for the engine today so I'll be able to take it to the shop this week. While it's at the machine shop I'm going to have them bore and tap the exhaust port to 3/4" N.P.T. Any opinions on which rim is correct for the RJ would be appreciated I picked up new blades for the sickle at the show in Le Sueur last year, I finally got those changed. Now I need to get it and a bunch of small parts sent to be plated.

I just use one of these:

Onan engines are as good as any other air cooled engine when they were developed and initially manufactured. Like any other engine they have their particularities, in different applications some engines work better than others, Onan's mounted in WH long ways seems to create a cooling problem with the rear cylinder due to grass buildup on the fan screen as well as in the tins, in a D series or something painted another color with the engine turned cross ways grass build up and cooling don't seem to be as much of a problem so you have to ask yourself is it the engine design, the tractor design or a maintenance issue or a combination of things? the opposed twins run smooth and quiet for a long time in a fixed rpm application particularly in power generation, that being said if you run your Onan at WOT 3600 rpm and let the governor control the throttle the engine and hydro trans will last a long time with proper maintenance. Also remember that the good running engines get very little recognition , they just keep on running.

For those who have been here a while already know the benefits of being a RedSquare supporter. We have a high rate of supporters, continuing to support the forum financially when their current membership expires. We encourage our members to please support the forum you enjoy. Terry at ReDoYourHorse.com continues to not only support RedSquare and our members with outstanding graphics, decals and insight in his posts, but did you know that he also extends discounts to RedSquare supporting members? There's more too! Beginning 2014, Terry has begun to offer supporter only raffles, where he's GIVING away items from his store to some lucky supporting members. This month he'll be giving away a hat to a lucky supporting member. Want in on some of this, become a supporter NOW (don't forget to add the supporter magnet to your order! (click here) When you think about all the benefits to supporting RedSquare, does it make any sense not to support?

Howdo all, yep that time has come for another blog entry, something that's a bit of fun.. Green Screening. For those of you that are wondering what Green Screening (also known as Chroma keying) is, it's a simple technique for making you appear somewhere your not on video. Anyone who has seen a weather forecast or a new's show on TV will have seen green screening in action... Or not as you can't see the green screen once the editing has been done.. Anyway, here's what a green screen looks like.. Or part of it as it is rather big being 3m x 1.6m. Ideally your screen should hang nice and flat with no creases showing... My screen was quickly hung in a way too small room just so I could have a quick play.. I've not told my wife yet that I want to turn the spare bedroom into a recording studio yet So having filmed your bit of footage, you now need to do some editing.. I use Sony Vegas Pro 11 for all my video edit (more about Vegas in a later blog entry), as you can do so much in it. If we zoom in a bit you can see me and the bit of backing footage I'm going to use in the time lines. You need to make sure your backing footage is below the green screen footage or this won't work. Now to add the "effect" which will make the green screen vanish. In Sony Vegas I click on the "Video FX" tab which brings up a whole host of video effects options.. Chroma Keyer is the one we want. As you can see you do get a choice of different types of Chroma Keying, you can do it using a red or blue screen, but green works the best which is where "green screening" got it's name I guess. The last 3 GS options are my own custom pre-sets. For this demo I dragged and dropped the "GS option" onto my GS bit of footage in the timeline. Which gives you this. The GS has vanished and been replaced by your bit of backing footage.. It's not looking that good however, the backing is a bit dark and you can see the folds in my GS (which is why you need them as smooth as possible). When you drag the GS option from the Video FX tab onto your GS footage this window also appears so you can tweak the GS effect. You need to tweak the Low threshold and High threshold a bit, I also add a very small amount of blur.. Until you end up with something like this. A close up.. So there you go, my short guide to Green Screening.. If your wondering why this blog entry is called "A stupid guide to Green Screening", this short video will give you an idea of what's possible.. The only limit is your imagination

check this bad boy out... in the driveway with it... the inside gears and chain still have factory red paint on them... even the plastic cover looks good...(sorry for crappy pic) tag your it! So what's your thoughts on this purchase? I feel as though I literally stole it... RJMcEachern

Turn the video camera back on and it should run fine!

Squonk Start it up and as soon as it starts to die have someone spray carb cleaner in the air intake of the carb, if it picks back up it is a fuel problem, if it does not pick back up the problem is not any thing to do with fuel. I use this trick all the time.

Kelly has a more-recent post on here somewhere with better pictures of the blocks but I can't find it. (I think I remember a cut finger.... ) I did find this one from a while ago: The earless blocks were used on the iso-mount Wheel Horses.

Here's a short vid of snowplowing

The 1055 uses the small flywheel and the matching small bearing plate, you will have to swap both, and the shallow pan on the 1055 will fit the small base blocks but you will have to cut the dipper on the bottom of the connecting rod to the correct size. Back to the flywheel and bearing plate, they are smaller on the 1055 engine because the bearing plate and blower tin tin sit over the frame on that tractor, and with the shallow pan they would hit if not smaller, and on a side note you will have to swap the clutch cross shaft, trans pulley and belt guard from the 1055 to make it all work, also the tab from the frame to the belt guard will need a little work to fit correctly.

Wait.... what's this? Theres now MORE being given away? What could it be? What's in the box? 2 that's right TWO lucky supporters will find out soon!

I'm thinkin', those hermetically sealed lids on military ammo boxes would make the perfect candidate for add on tool boxes. I just need to come up with a mount that won't require drilling holes into my sheet metal...then paint to match.

Omen...I like that... five two zero...the new number of the beast.

OK. Is that a piece of caramel being used as a shifter knob?

I hesitated to use ‘resto’ in the title as neither of these carts will end up exactly factory like but to me it is a ‘resto’ in the sense of ‘returning to an earlier state’ i.e. functional, looking reasonable original to the casual eye, and having an active useful life in front of it again. The story really began with the purchase of a 10 cu ft dump cart which looked sort of ok from the outside. What attracted me to this particular cart was that, unlike the few I’d seen (as they’re not exactly common here), this one is not the bolt together type but the tub has a one piece floor and a tub assembly that was welded up at the factory. I’m guessing that at least one other bidder was attracted to that as well so I ended up paying what was really too much for it. C’est la guerre! It had stood so long out in the weather that both wheels had rusted through – hence the Westwood wheels that I had spare and to hand being fitted in the photo. Although the outside looks ok the inside tells a different story – I knew that when I bought it and as a project it was always going to be a challenge. A few weeks later a haul of attachments came along which included a small dump cart which was going for scrap if nobody bid on it – you’ll see why in a moment. It had good wheels that I thought might do for the bigger cart but it turned out that the bigger cart has slightly wider wheels and tyres. Like the bigger cart it looks quite good in the above photo but the rear end of the tub had basically rotted out. Whilst considering the options my son came across what I think was probably a Westwood trailer that had been rotting away under a hedge in Devon. The owner didn’t want it so it was recovered despite being absolutely rotten because the wheels and tyres were in still good shape. This meant that I now had a pair of non-original wheels but about the right size and appearance for the bigger dump cart so what to do with the smaller one as its wheels weren’t now going to be used? Despite the condition of the tub it looked from some angles as being too good to scrap and so a second cart challenge was in the offing, well maybe, as it needed further investigation before committing to anything though my first thoughts were to scrap the tub and turn it into a water bowser which would be useful. The cart had obviously been stored for some years upside down with the result that the axle mountings had filled up with water eventually causing the tub to rot through. It appears that it was then stored the right way up with the tub in the tipped position causing the rear end to rot out. A good clean up revealed that much of the tub was still ok though a bit thinner than it had once been. Shot blasting it was a no-no or there’d have been very little left in places so it was long patient work with a dust mask and abrasive wheel in the angle grinder and various other abrasive wheels to remove as much of the rust as was practically possible.. The tub was then anti rust treated with a phosphoric acid based product but what to do with the end that was by now paper thin and had a quite a few pinholes in it? Cutting the whole end out to weld a new panel in was a possibility but would have meant losing the ribs as I don’t have the skills or machinery needed to press ribs into a new panel. I’d thought about using glass fiber matting but that would have looked clumsy, pretty awful in fact so decided to experiment with a fibre glass repair paste (basically resin mixed with finely chopped fibre) A first layer was brushed onto the tub then sanded when cured. A second and third coat was added brushing in random directions aiming to achieve a uniform thickness after which as much of the end of the tub that could be save had become as rigid as the rest. This was followed by a coat of oxide primer to protect the inside of the tub. It was then time then for the next experimental stage which would decide the cart’s fate. It was now possible to take the outside of the reinforced skin back to bright metal, treat it, fill the pinholes and again give it a coat of oxide primer to keep it good for now. That’s as far as I got by the end of the summer since which time I’ve been otherwise occupied and the two carts have been stored in the dry. Seeing what other WH friends in the UK were getting up to made me feel guilty about not actually getting on with this so you can guess what my New Year resolution was. I actually began straight after Christmas by getting the wheels for each dump cart cleaned and painted as a warm up exercise but now the more challenging stuff is under way (well challenging for me at least). Cutting the rotten parts out above the axle mounts revealed just how corroded the insides of these had become. Not an easy place to work but patient work with a hammer and sharp screwdriver as a kind of manual needle gun managed to dig out the carbuncles that had formed. The supports are made from fairly thick steel but none the less once the carbuncles were removed the second side had pinholes. The metal was treated with anti-rust, one advantage of having two carts on the go being that while there’s waiting to do on one you can get on with the other. Time to dismantle the larger cart (still with its temporary wheels on it). It’s difficult to date this cart, or the other one for that matter as neither has an id tag or any evidence that it ever had one. Based on the decals used on it the larger one is possibly from about 1978 in that it has the silver on black warning decal. The small cart has the small Wheel Horse on silver foil decal so it has me guessing 1960s ‘somewhen’. Perhaps someone can help on this. More photos of the larger cart will follow as I start to work on the tub but this one shows the one piece floor that is part of the welded tub assembly and the undercarriage which from memory is different to the Agrifab style WH carts I’ve seen. So that’s two carts on the go here now. I must be mad to be doing this! If you’re wondering how I intend to tackle the majorly rotted end of the small cart tub, I have an idea that involves steel but I’ll save that for later. Andy

well got this a month or so back and have fubbed with it here and there and has the kohler kt 17 series 2 engine it and I'm learning in a hurry parts are EXPENSIVE on this beast!!!! so I have had it in my buddies shop for a bit just put in brand new points and condenser and still no fire and last night just bought a coil for it and that hurt but less from pats small engine that anywhere I could find for 83.00 shipped to maine every where else for a coil is anywhere from $100 to $200 depending on vendor but hopefully this will solve this problem

Just found the forum. Had the GT14 for years. Great plow machine! Bill

My neighbor sent me the link below to a video on a 1929 Fordson snow machine. I have never seen anything like it, but now I'm thinking I want to build one using a wheel horse tractor. It looks like it could be a real fun project. I think that the drive method that they used might be easier to fabricate than a tracked drive system. What do you think, does this have possibilities? Rick http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=zBjlSJf4274&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DzBjlSJf4274%26feature%3Dyoutu.be&app=desktop

I bought the 94 520H that was listed on Red Square classified. Very happy with it. 350 hours. 48" SD deck. Should get years of use out of it. I have 93 520H with 980 hours. It is in fair to good condition. I can't decide if I should keep it for parts or sell it. It seems I've heard more bad than good things about Onan 20hp motors. I think the 93 520H tractor would be worth about $750-$850 with the 42" RD deck and mule drive. Feel free to post good stories and bad nightmares about Omen motors.....I mean Onan. I am curious.

Mike if you sprayed carb cleaner in it as it was dying but things did not change then I would suspect an electrical problem. I was having a similar problem like that on the 314 Hydro I bought just before Christmas. Turns out one of the safety switches at the PTO was a little flakey. I'm not a big fan of those anyway so i took it out of the system and no more problem. I also had the very same problem with the 310-8 I bought from Jay. Of course when I bought the tractor there was no engine in it so he didn't know there was a problem with that safety switch. Anyway, just a thought.

I couldn't get a right side hub off on a rebuild a few years ago so I built a homemade puller,its just a piece of angle iron with a nut welded to it and 5 holes that correspond to the bolt pattern an the hub,it works great,and allways gets the hub off without damage

Gee wiz Lars... cool video bro... sounds like you were burning rubber leaving the garage.

since the d250's are pretty much the same as gutbrod 2500, parts can be found in germany http://gutbrod-schrauber.de/ersatzteile-f-r-2500-s.html http://ersatzteilhandel.jimdo.com/gutbrod-2500-getriebe/ if you open the pdf on that site you'll get an exploded view of the transmission http://ardiehl.de/Gutbrod/Gutbrod_2500_Benzin_Motor.pdf engine pdf hope this helps Koen

I used it on my snow cab windows because of it's advertised "restores optical clarity" claim... using a micro fiber cloth, I applied it liberally, and with using very little elbow grease... the before and after difference was remarkable...so much clearer from just the one application. Had originally bought the product back when I was restoring the taillights on my Javelin, that was 2009... they're still glowing like brand new. You might pay a little more for the 3M name, but you can't argue with the results.

It is not a leg lamp

The manual has step by step instructions for getting the trans off the tractor...as well as how to open up the trans case and rebuilding the trans. Have the shallow side of the trans on the bottom and remove the brake shaft side. You can then pull out the differential, unbolt the housing, open it up, find the old snap ring and pieces, put on new snap ring (the snap ring has a sharp side and a rounded side)...I believe the sharp side goes toward the inside of the differential. Bolt back up the differential housing, place back in the case (with the nuts of the housing bolts up), replace case half and bolt together. Boomshakalaka... If the trans needs cleaning out and new seals...now is the time. Here are some good threads with pictures of tearing into an 8 speed... Here is a thread with some videos...though not your trans...they are just about the same inside. This one does not have the hi/low gearing...

ok I just wondered. I thought maybe it was something "SPECIAL"

This post is about K181 bushings but Martin provided some information on the big block bushings

I FINISHED THE CLEANUP ON MY 1988 312-8 TRACTOR. HERE IS THE FINISHED PRODUCT. I WILL TRY TO SELL IT IN THE SPRING. IT HAS 3 YEAR OLD 42" DECK AND 610 HOURS ON TRACTOR. BOWTIE IN OHIO

Always thought Wheel Horse should have never given up the tool box. On are big farm tractors I would be lost without them. It's almost UnAmerican to be without a tool box on a tractor. I have often thought about bolting one on somewhere. We have got a lot of talented fabricator members on here maybe they will come up with some great Idea.

I also live in Chesterfield. Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help with your purchase. I can go take a closer look at it for you and take more pictures, if you would like.

I sure hope that don't draw flies You remember if it does,,, Glen sells those knobs all the time. BTW , for storage you do what ever is best

Well, we finally got our first big snow here in Northern Indiana this year and I have to say, I for one enjoyed all the snow on Sunday! Got to have a TON of seat time on the Bronco 14 on Sunday night and it came through like a champ (even when the snow came up to the top of my 42" blower!). I do have to say though, I don't think I would have wanted much less than 14hp this time around (However, my 14 hp needs to be rebuilt, so I am sure it was not running as strong as it could have been). Ended up clearing 4 driveways out and a good portion of the street. After that, dad and I took out his Jeep to do some 4 Wheelin' in all the fresh snow! Sure was great to see a 42 year old tractor handle the snow with ease! Anybody else have a good time clearing out snow this weekend? If so, got any pics to share? I would have taken pics, but it was just too late and dark. Taylor

I tend not to bother with buying 'purpose specific' products. One product does a multitude of jobs for me. I use either Metal polish like Brasso, in fluid or Wadding form. Or 'T Cut' , a rubbing compound for Auto paintwork. It all does the same job and I've had great results after cleaning up the Steering wheels and Light Lenses after flatting with P600/1200 grade Carbon Paper. Bit it's your choice. With the Leather/wrinkle effect in the spokes, it is best to just scrub with Washing up liquid and warm water and a Nail or old Toothbrush to get any residue out.

I'm a bit surprised that there are so many NOS in PA. I picked up a 1994 314H 2-3 years ago from my local WH dealer. A gentleman had bought it new years ago. He passed away and the family sold it back to the dealer. It had 176 hours, was waxed regularly, and hardly used. I'm sure that there are many WHs in similar condition out there. Happy hunting! Almost forgot. There's a sweet 518xi on EBay w bagger and blower. As an Xi owner I can't say enough about them. More power, tighter turning, Faster mowing. You'd be very happy!

dale's mower service in kempton pa up close to hamburg pa has a new 314-8 not sure of the year but he has a very good selection of used equipment give dale a call @ 610-756-6453. he is only about an hr away from harrisburg pa and he is a good guy and welcome to red square eric j

THERE WERE TWO IN NORTHERN,OHIO THAT WERE ON EBAY. THEY WERE A TORO DEALER AND NOW A EQUIPMENT REPAIR SHOP ALSO . SORRY, I CAN'T REMEMBER THE NAME OF THE BUSINESS.

Nice "Man Purse"! One good thing about the 953 is the large built in tool box.

I know of a 60th Anniversary 315-8 near Pittsburgh, but it has 62 hours. It comes with a 42" RD deck and the seller is asking $5000 I'll PM the info to you.

The Sears tractors are what got me started. I remember n my dad buying a Suburban 12 brand new and I loved it. I was sad, like my dog dies when our garage burned down with it in there. My favorite tractors now are Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse D-250, and anything hard to find. I have a 1959 David Bradley, a Wheel Horse D-250 and a Minneapolis Moline that are my personal collector tractors.

i think you will find the majority of wheel hub threads are 7/16-20 especially for the type of hubs shown in the pic above. there are exceptions though. just don't want anyone going out and buying the wrong size......

It took me 35 years to build this shop and fill it with tools. This picture of my Bridgeport was taken the other year while I was waiting for a new speed dial to arrive (the original's printing washed off during cleaning) and I was still getting the wiring sorted out, so the cover is off the breaker box. I was also in the process of rebuilding the "Y" axis power feed. Both machines also have a DRO installed now. I have a gas welder and a stick welder too, but I'm out of practice and need to "play around" some as though my welds "stick," they're a little ugly. Thanks for the kind words.

Run an automotive power steering pump w/integral reservoir off the PTO just like a loader pump. Use the control valve, cylinder, and lift shaft from the 520. You would only need to have two custom hoses made (between the pump and the control valve) and build a bracket to mount the pump. No - I haven't actually done it, but I can't see why it would be that tough.

Hydro I am right with ya. I wish I would have sold my 2 stage earlier also, Now that I have and have the single it's just a way better fit for me.

Well the snow thrower is back in operation and working perfectly. I have to say I wish I would have made the switch from the 2 stage sooner. I was able to retain the original jackshaft as the new pulley with a new key had to been driven on and was a very snug fit. The drive sprocket was in good shape and with the new bearings everything ran smoothly. I used Loctite for all of the set screws and worked the thrower for about twenty minutes then checked everything over. I finished my driveway which included widening plow harden banks and taking out about 5 inches of freshly fallen snow. This tractor and snow thrower are a great combination. Thanks all for the advice.

I know that is a lot of work but you can be proud when you finish and have a super cool machine.