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Had few of the horses out to graze a little while I rearrange things so I can put them away for the winter

Nope. no snow yet, but Im ready for a change. I did find use for the blower though. Instead of raking up and hauling apples I just fired up the blower and blew them over the fence. A little messy but did a fine job.

For some reason while plowing snow last winter, my 8 HP 867 developed a rod knock which forced me to make some decisions. Do I rebuild it or install a 10HP or larger Kohler or maybe even a (dare I say) Honda? I even went so far this past spring as to buy a good running used K241 for a transplant. But after checking out the additional height and not wanting to chop up the hood, I decided to rebuild the original engine using Kohler parts. $450. bucks later, I now have a nice running K181 with a .020" over bore and a .020" under crank. At the same time I decided to lengthen the wheelbase by 5", not only so it will look more like a full size Farmall with a wide front end, but also so I can install a 38" 2 bladed Honda mower deck under it next spring. I never had a deck for this tractor, so I'm hoping the Honda 2 bladed 38" deck will do a really nice job of mowing, plus I picked it up for next to nothing. Please note in the pictures that I added a couple of assist springs to help raise the snow blade. The weight of the blade on the pavement before the springs was 60 lbs, with the springs it was 22lbs. Not only is it easier to raise, but I think the wear plate should last a lot longer.

Mmmm... applesauce.

Also when you have the head off make sure it is flat, there are a few ways to do so, sand paper on a known flat surface and sand the head using a circular motion, till it looks flat, I have a 3" wide file I run over the heads in a cross pattern, or set it on a belt sander for a few passes, take it to a machine shop and have them true it up, how ever you do it, if it is flat it will seal better, and hold the gasket longer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Zq_dUSV94SA#t=76 Joe !!! -BK

Good News I got the tractor fixed today. Turned out not to be the carb after all . I tryed everthing that everyboby said one at a time to see what worked .Well after a few hrs. i tryed a idea that David Clements suggested. He said to change the condenser it might be bad . It sounded odd but i had tryed everything else. Got a new condenser and put it on and now the tractor runs great. I would have never have thought a bad condenser would make a engine run like it was a bad carb. Now the tractor is fixed and no more show to go to. Thanks again for all your help . Here is a pic of the tractor.

Got a super deal on a '70 Charger 12 Auto with a relatively new 12 horse in her, a 42 in dozer blade and rough 42" RD deck. Tractor $175, deck $40... A quick 4 1/2 hour round trip to Mount Holly Springs and wahlah!! It looks like I may have gotten a decent deal for a non runner.... but I got the Kohler running in 15 minutes once I got a bit of a charge in the battery and a quick fuel line and filter change. Problem is it wont stay running unless the choke is full on. New fuel lines and filter, gas all the way to the carb. dropped the bowl and it is full. Never fooled with a Walbro carb before but looks like I will be learning about it very soon Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I actually bought it for the seat and the pristine Wheel Horse Turf Savers on the back. They will donate themselves to the C-160 restoration this winter. Its growing on me though even in its rusty condition. I can see where the racing stripes went down the hood center though. By far the worst I have ever paid money for, thankfully it wasn't a lot of money for what I got though.....

It was made from bicycle handle bars

Inspector! What inspector?

Well my nine year old got some paint on her, the new belt in and engine sorta wired "I guess I helped a little". He has got a lot more work to do but least he can cruise the town before the snow flies.

I got the motor on had to put header pipe on to clear the hood I painted the blower housing made a engine cover plate from stainless steel I used the stock air intake because it keeps every thing away from my feet but put a uni air filter on it and put the hitch on

Think it would work makin' chopped walnuts? I have bushels of 'em! **Note** I have chopped with limited success using my mower deck but, then I can't find the chopped nuts?

OK, squonk, you're busted. At 00:38 you clearly ran a stop sign. With a speed limit of 15mph I'm confident you were under that so maybe the judge will be easy on you......................fun video!!!!

I've used Vanguards on my C-120 since 1990. Had a 16 HP for 20 years. I now have a 18 HP on it. The only reason I changed Is I broke the corner mount off the 16 HP and never got it welded where it did seep oil. It opened up a crack and dumped my oil and started knocking before I knew to oil was gone. I broke the 16 HP the way I broke it was I went off a bank and landed on the right front wheel. This twisted the frame and broke the right mount tab off the engine. After that I put a 6 1/2" x 9 1/2" x 3/8" steel plate under the engine with 1/2" x 2" x 6 1/2" spacers. I looked at the Honda engines when I repowered my tractor. I went with the Vanguard because the Honda was too wide to fit into a C-120. The Vanguard is a shoe horn fit. You have a lot more room with 520. I've post this picture before but here it is again.

Found a deal on CL for some Ags & Weights (Tru Power 23x10.50x12). They were originally on a trencher and are in great shape. The weights are only 42lbs each but fit perfectly inside the rims. Now I need some new front tires.

Well I played for about another hour or so this morning. Pressure washer her and got all the moss and grease from sitting for 15 years. Heres some after pics... I gotta say, I am totally head over heels for this thing and I don't know why. If its because it sat for 15 years and I got it running in about 3 hours or if it was the price or what. I mean this thing was literally covered in vines and had to be pulled out from behind the barn. The sheetmetal is razor straight and there isn't even a dimple anywhere in this metal anywhere. It may be the racing stripes on the hood....or at least where there should be stripes. I have found the replacement Kohler is from 1987 so it can't have too many hours on it with it sitting for 15 years basically unused and only run to move it around every once in awhile. The guy told me it hadn't been started in at least 3 years.... I was going to part this thing out but now its got a home and it may be the one who gets restored this winter and the C-160 may wait. I have a funny feeling my son is going to love chugging around on this when he gets home from school tonight. All I gotta do now is find where I can get those stripes from. I didn't see them on Redoyourhorse anywhere. I have a funny feeling new decals are going to be ordered soon. The only problem I see is over-revving. This Walbro has no hi speed adjustment and after checking it out today with my spirometer its showing 4700 RPM. My C-160 is right at 3600 so I'm pretty sure it accurate. Believe it or not the fancy laser tach is so far off it isn't funny. I have no idea how to adjust that rpm down from 4700 to 3200 where it belongs. The tranny is the next thing to get attention. The engine oil was crystal clear like honey and the tranny fluid is blood red as it should be but the filter is red. I knowWheel Horse hasn't made a red filter in at least 20 years...maybe more. I doubt he was like my Dad and bought a case of filters and is still using red ones to change his...... I definitely want to get it drained and refilled with new ATF and a brandy new filter.

Good looking herd. They're predicting snow for us (Gaylord) tonight and tomorrow morning. My snow blowers ready and so is the plow.

Maybe this will help you sort the issue if it's a matter of adjustment- First easiest thing to check is the adjuster nut as mentioned by Don. This is where it's at- Ignore the temporary, weak spring and the strange brass bit between the Brake Band and Tranny Case. If the Nut has been screwed on too far, it will prevent the Brake Lever your trying to apply from engaging with the Ratchet on the Rockshaft (inside/underneath the Gear Shifter Plate). If it is too far, undo the Adjuster Nut until the Nylock end is flush with the end of the Rod. We'll start from there. Next, just try and engage the Lever with the Brake applied to see if it engages (on one of the Ratchet Teeth). Underneath the Gear Shifter Plate, it look's like this- (as seen here in the Disengaged position- And the Engaged position- If the Brake Lever is not engaging the Ratchet properly, it may be due to wear of the Latch or Ratchet Teeth. When I stripped this one out, it was worn, so I put a weld spot on it and filed it back to normal, as well as the Teeth/steps on the Rockshaft Arm. The more you tighten the Adjuster Nut , the less travel (pivot movement) the Rockshaft is able to move and the Brake Lever will not reach or engage with the Ratchet Teeth. Once the Lever engages, you can adjust the Nut so that the Lever engages the first or second Tooth/Step on the higher end of the Rockshaft lever (as in the last pic). This will let the Lever engage with the next Tooth/Step as the Brake material wears down. So much less attention required in the future. I find that when I release the Brake with the foot, I hold the lever and gently let it move to the disengaged position which stops the wear and that awful 'Rat Trap' action (I thought about putting a 'Damper' on that bit). Obviously, this does not account for any Brake material or parts that may need replacing as well. Hope this helps. (Even though it's an old post, which I didn't notice at first) Regards

Ready for a change.

The local bars in town held their annual Dawg Walk before the game yesterday. I went down for awhile because my son and son in law were there. We had a good time. I met Hanford Dixon and talked with him briefly. Gregg Pruitt was also there but I didn't get to meet him. For 20 bucks you could register for the walk and get a T-shirt on the event and lunch, then watch the Browns find a way to lose yet another game. Still had a good time though.

Looks great! I like how your tractors have names haha

I have honed cylinders, then file fit the next size up rings to fit many times over the years, with varying results. Most of the time they turn out quite well if the cylinder isn't to bad. I collect old 30's, 40's, and 50's vintage engines, and in many cases oversize pistons are no longer available, so I've used this procedure many times, and 9 times out of 10 they turn out great. Occasionally you get one that still smokes a little. Matt

If there is any one around you that builds snow- pushers like they use on frt. end loaders see if they would sell you a cutting edge. I have a local co. That builds them and they cut off a chunk for me for Elvis' loader bucket. Cost me $35

Craig, first time I disagree with you... Get yourself some 4ply or 6ply 5 ribs from m.e. Miller Tire...

Another vote for the brush , seems to get into the nooks & crannys better . Brand ? If you're going to take the time to do it , might as well do it best . Valspar Implement enamel from Tractor Supply , I did my 1966 Ariens snowblower 6 years ago & it has held up well even with all the little pebbles it chews up . Don't have any pics of that but heres the W/H deck I did with Valspar ( un-thinned ) & a brush last summer after sandblasting .

Thanks for all the complements! Please excuse me, I made a few mistakes on my original post. Me bad! 1. As you all know, it's a 857, not a 867. 2. The rod/crank is only .010" under, not .020". Can it be turned .020" under? I don't know. The rear rims are 14" GM. I don't know what year and model though. I picked them out a pile of rims at a junk yard because they looked a little like the rims that International use on their tractors in the 1960's. The rims are on backward with 2" homemade spacers. I made longer front spindles so the tractor is slightly higher in the front then the back because I like that look. As far as the fenders, I just removed the center section of the original rear pan and added a vertical pieces of steel to the individual fenders. The new seat is mounted to a 'C' shaped piece of spring steel much like the early 110 JD's. It really rides smooth now. For traction; I add about a 100 lbs to the hitch plus, to help steering, I have a couple of gals. of HD windshield washer fluid (good for 20 below) to each front tire. It all works pretty well. The picture was taken a couple of years ago before I lengthen the frame. It shows the weights hanging from the drawbar.

Matt's foot control RULES!!!!! Red

Nothing special, she is all work. She went from mower deck, to pulling a disc to under body blade to snow blower in about a 2 hour period

Matt, I am very excited for you! This is an example of where the internet is a very useful tool. In this case, it was used as an outreach to help another person here. Matt, you and I became members of RS with two weeks of each other, and you have wanted a C160 the whole time we've been here. WHC160 you've got a part in this too. You got here ahead of me as a member by about three weeks. Its really cool how we worked together to help Matt. Matt, I know you will be posting pics as soon as the C160 is in your posession and I look forward to seeing them. Hopefully I'll get to throw a leg over it one day and take it for a ride. Part of my retirement plan is to sell out here and move to Texas. We're looking at about six years for the wheel on that idea to begin turning. Van

If congress would just work this way and help each other, just think how things would be.

That is why this site works. It is the people who make it great preserving Americana. Nice work every one. Gary B....

Unless? No...I better not.

Here is my worker D200. All original except I installed an electric fuel pump. The pump, hydro motor, and transaxle had to be rebuilt. Here is the link to when I brought it home.

Here are some more pics: (You can click on image then select "Go to Comments")

Tool, 46 & 2 (cover by a group of twelve year olds)

Not sure what the 500 series has.....I'm thinking you could use one from any C series......look for a rebuildable from maybe a later C-XX5. However I was looking at one and the ports are not at the same angle as the original. might get in the way of the battery box....dunno.... Good luck with your project.