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Started working a little on My next project. Just installed an H60 Tecumseh on it ....so that Makes it an already "RUNNING" project. (meaning this one has a running engine) This tractor has lots of power and will ride a wheelie if I let out the clutch too fast in third gear. This tractor will pretty much be a tune-up,clean-up and Paint-up Job with tri-ribs and ags to finish it off....After I finish up or give-up on my 606 project.

Been waiting all day for my call back on this second owner tractor. Chris said he got this little 603 from the original owner years ago. Said all of his kids have grown up on it, his oldest daughter used to sleep in his arms while he was mowing with it. Said all his years living in this area he's never seen anyone with the Wheelhorse banner emblazened across the back window of their truck. You know I had to tell him about the forum and the Biglersville show too. Pretty sure he was having sellers remorse there at the end...whew! I think I got outta there just in time. LOL.

So I tried to sell it 3 times....completely frustrated that people are way too big of a cheaptskates and wont pay $400 bucks for a great running tractor so Jeb and I turned it into a Father/Son project. We started it last week with some priming and today we tore the wheels off her, hood and pans off covered it in "Purple Power" and Jeb pressure washed it from top to bottom. Heres where we are now. Guessing priming and painting the wheels will be the first order of business as he is looking for some results. Hers some pics of before and after...I cant believ how clean it is once all the dust and dirt were blasted off of it. I'll add more once the wheels are masked and primed.

Not sure if this should be posted in this section, or in the "Other Brands" section. Feel free to move this if need be Karl. There has been quite a few people that have fitted these engines to Wheel Horses, and there is quite a bit of info on how to do the swap. However I haven't seen too many pictures of the inner workings of one. From the reviews I've seen, most people have no problems with them, but a few have had problems straight away. I have read that there is more than 50 different companies in China building these engines, and some are Yanmar clones, and some are clones of Yanmar clones . A friend of mine came across a guy who was selling some 10hp clone diesel engines cheap. The catch was that they were generator motors with the tapered crankshaft. You can buy a new straight (1") crankshaft for $80, so I decided to take the plunge. If this motor ever runs again, it will probably be in this guise: Got a little suspicious when I saw this sticker: Will probably need Chucks (SOI) help to figure out the electronics on this. There was carbon in the exhaust port, and traces of oil on the dipstick, so it obviously had been run at the factory. So after dropping it on the chassis to see if it would fit I started the process of swapping the cranks. Flywheel off, and cheap nasty looking stator revealed: Other side engine cover off and the internals are revealed: Whatever oil was in the crankcase has turned to a thick sticky treacle goop in the bottom of the crankcase. No evidence of any metal particles either in the crankcase or on the oil filter screen. A closer look at the "treacle": However this is what the PTO side main bearing looked like: Deep scores, obviously caused by particles of something passing through the bearing. The big end bearings look better - that is to say not scored up, but ugly wear marks nonetheless: The ball bearings on the other end of the crank, both ends of the balance shaft and on the cam feel awful. I haven't washed them up yet to see if they have crap in them, or whether it is just the treacle gumming them up. Severe galling on the follower that drives the fuel pump off the cam (sorry for the bad pic): And this surprise when I lifted off the valve cover: You can see the exhaust rocker missed its little socket completely. Yes this pushrod is now bent. That's about as far as I have gone with the teardown so far, at this stage I might as well pull the piston and reassemble the thing from scratch. Havent looked at the oil pump yet, I'm suspecting its not too good.

I just purchased a my first wheel horse. It is a 310-8, in great condition, 36" rear discharge deck, no rust that I have seen. I did have to buy a new carerator for it. ($125). I do have a question, I traded my 15 year old snapper 9.5 horse 28" cut mower for it. That's a pretty good trade isn't it? I mow about a half to three quarters of an acre, but it is all at a slant, with tree roots and such everywhere. The poor snapper would get the front of the mower deck caught on things from time to time, it just wasn't going to last very much longer with the beating that it was taking. I hope the 310-8 can handle it. I have lots of trees that drop limbs that I may not see in time, or my son may run over just because he can.

Well I'm looking forward to an opportunity to start on the Framework outdoors now the weather is warming up a little. The first point is that I'm calling/labelling this a C-120 and not a Raider. The Engine is sorted now I have replaced all the missing/wrong screws/bolts , bit of work to do on the Flywheel and Shroud. I have a New Starter for it. The Transmission is back together and the new expensive Hubs are done ready for me to make some New Woodruff Keys. The Hubs are very good condition and correct for this Model. I will convert to H.T Bolts and Acorn Closed Wheel Nuts- I've been gathering parts together ready to hit it hard at the end of the month, so I can at least reach the Rolling Chassis point in February. Wheel prep is priority, Grit Blasting and Powder Coating (not me), then I can put the 'Fat Ags' on them. I will have some welding to do on the Sheet Metal, but nothing serious or major . I'm not a Welder, but I know a man who is and he's ok for training me up on the Practical. This will come in Handy , as I've got a Lump of Railway Track which I plan to use as a Front Weight type Bumper !. I'll add to this post 'As and When' I progress. As this is not a Restoration, I shall include all the changes I make to it.

There was an auction near my inlaw's place where a family was selling all of their farm equipment. I talked with the owner, and he said he had purchased it from the 1st owner and that the mower has spent it's whole life locally and was always serviced at the place where it was originally sold. The 42" deck looks awesome. He gave me the manual and reciepts going back to 1999. I am not sure what year it is, anyone know? The model number is: 73400 Serial number 5902150 M14s Serial number: Spec:601559 Serial number: 2515906393 Not sure what I am going to do with it yet. Paid $550 + 10% auction fee.

Hi Guys, I picked up a running D180 froma guy in New York about 6 months ago now. He used it as a tractor and made every modification he felt like. Stupid lights, cut the original steering wheel off with a cutting torch, destroyed the seat mounting system and cut a large chunk out of the frame. it had a horrible off color paint job, but at least it kept away the rust. It came with a HUGE snowblower and a Huge plow. he claims the snowblower works, just needed to be hooked up. so about 4 months ago I tore her all the way down to the frame, and of course more problems. the guy had broken off 3 of the 4 exaust bolts, had the wrong spark plugs in, messed with the hydro controls, and made the largest rats nest of a wiring job I have ever seen. so I went to work. I got all the parts off, and to the sandblaster. Then the parts were primed by me, and brought to a buddy of mine who paints automotive for a living. finaly, all the parts are back, painted and on the tractor. everything the PO mucked up is fixed, and nearly ready to run. can anyone help me upload more photos, it says they are to big. thanks, also have more pictures to come tomorrow of the paint job

I went to a local car show and got my suburban hood and Briggs cover striped

Well I was driving home after visiting my sister in Western NY, taking the back roads. When out of the corner of my eye I see a Wheel Horse with a deck sitting along side the road with a "For Sale" sign on it. I stop (duh...of coarse!!!) and asked the guy to fire 'er up! VVrrrooom!!! No Smoke! So I asked why was he selling it? He said that his grandfather bought it original and handed it down; but that he just bought a big Craftsman tractor and he had no use for it. Now I did not want him to "catch on" that I was drooling inside and I am a WH nut, and he's gonna spring at selling to a collector at the highest bid! I took a deep breath and said "Looks in decent shape for an old tractor". He said that it was always kept in the barn. "How much are you looking to get for it?" I said while biting the inside of my lips. He said $100! SOLD!!! Here's cash! ...and away I took it to it's new home! Needs a good shining up and a few cosmetic things... like a new seat.

Craig, the tag says: Frank Kehl Sales and Service, Rte 78 & 9, Strykerville, NY Craig, the tag says: Frank Kehl Sales and Service, Rte 78 & 9, Strykerville, NY You should post it to Jason's dealer list.

Just dug a little deeper into this engine. Did an initial clean of most of the bits. The ball bearings actually feel ok once the goo was washed out and replaced with some fresh (real?) oil. The bore looks good, honing marks are still very visible and the piston and rings look fine. The bottom of the bore was coated in the dried up treacle that took quite a lot of scrubbing to remove. I'm thinking I'll give it a very light hone and pop that part back together. (I haven't actually measured anything yet to see how close to spec things are). The cylinder itself is some kind of steel or iron sleeve in the aluminum block, thick wall of at least 1/8 inch. So at this point (assuming everything measures up ok) I'm thinking a new main bearing, new big end bearings, either a tickle up or a new end plate for the oil pump, polish the cam lobes that are only a little ugly, one new pushrod, possibly a couple of tappets, a tickle up or a new fuel pump cam follower, and put it back together with the new crank. Not as bad as it could have been, but still a bit of a list for a new engine. I am fairly sure this thing hasn't been run anywhere apart from the factory. The box and packing showed no signs of ever being opened, and the amount of carbon in the top end of the engine is minimal. The starter terminals show no signs of ever having a wire hooked up to them. My thoughts are that it was started in the factory and sucked a little bit of swarf through the oil system damaging the main bearing. The big end bearing shows no sign of swarf, but may have been a little dry at start up, with the same applying to the camshaft lobes. The pushrod issue was pure negligence on the part of the assembler. So I still hope this thing will run again. I'll post some more pictures of the parts at some point, too tired and hungry to go back out to the garage right now. The basic design of the engine is (I think) very nice, a Yanmar version would be very, very nice.

I guess I'll throw my hat in the ring. From this to this in 8 hrs flat. I know I have at least one doubter out there but it can be done, and this tractor does look nice. I don't even know what yr. it is, don't care. (1985?) She has almost 2000 hrs on the clock and still purrs like a kitten. I cut at least an acre of grass a week with it, haul firewood,pull the sweeper, all the kinds of things Wheel Horse's were meant to do she does no problem. No trailer queen here, just an honest hard workin refurb.

Well that explains it. I was wondering why there was a guy standing on the side of the road with $100 bucks in his hand scratching his head and looking at a for sale sign on the ground. Nice score. Great story!

I believe the lamp no. is 4411 or 4411-1. Same bulb you see with the rubber housing and metal mounting bracket. They call it a tractor work lamp. Napa should have them. My Napa sells a cheaper HD line of lamps and you can buy a work lamp cheaper than the bare bulb. Remove the bulb and throw the rest away.

T-shirt design update................. Well received it today, after calling yet again. Unfortunately it was not acceptable so now I am waiting for the new design. Hope to have something up for all of you very, very soon! Thanks so much for your patience!!!

I'm back to work on this project now that my 701 is done. The sickle cutter bar that I put new blades on has been plated matte chrome. I bought a set of wheel weights last spring at Mentone, I got those blasted and base coated and a few tins and small pieces painted. Before I painted the seat pan I drilled holes in it so I could put springs under the seat for a better ride. I wanted a wider set of rear rims for the weights so I took all the tires back off and had the fronts and the wider rear rims powder coated and got those back on and last week I picked up an ST326 snow blower for this tractor.

BIG MISTAKE... The motion control components are designed to work dry...don't oil or WD-40 those components. The 'constant speed' concept is in maintaining firm and precise positioning of valves inside the hyd pump. The only way to set and hold precise positioning of these valves is thru resistance of friction surfaces in the control lever(s). When you oil the components, you are defeating the purpose of the friction controls...that being counter-productive. As a 2nd reason for dry operation...oil collects dust and dirt and holds it like glue. Don't use oil or silicon or any other sort of lube. In fact, if you have done so, you'll now have to take it all apart to clean off all the oil residues you have introduced. That oil you so meticulously and thoroughly applied is quite likely the culprit here. In addition to that, particularly the C-120 & B-100 ... Inspect the nylon cam and eccentric cam follower. The nylon cam MAY be broken or cracked. The cam should NOT be sloppy in its motion up / down. Also look at the ledt side of the hoodstand where the friction collar shaft is bolted to the hoodstand....is that tab cracked or broken, which would allow the friction collar to move at will. You should also look under the tractor and inspect the frame plate where it is bolted to the trans (4 bolts). This plate is often cracked which allows for an increasingly worse 'flex' in the motion controls. I have seen where this is so bad that the cam follower has been crushed.

your best bet would be to find a junk motor with all the parts already. But as long as your shroud has the bump out for the starter you should be all set with the required parts. Be careful with selecting the flywheel as there are several different types used over the years. Later ones have an external magneto, flywheels with the correct magnets will only have magnets underneath, be solid cast iron, and the magnets go around the total circumference of the flywheel. If there are just 2 magnets then it does not have the charging magnets. Also watch out that the taper is the correct size some of the heavy duty engines used a larger crank journal and bigger nose taper. There are a lot of flywheels out there for sale that have a starter ring but no charging magnets, these were used on snowblowers with 120V start systems. I am actually running one of these on one of my tractors, since it has magneto ignition the battery doesn't discharge much and I only have to hook up a battery charger a couple of times a season. Charging Stators are getting hard to find in good condition. The charging version looks just like the non-charging one except it has a couple of coils wrapped around 2 more ears on the stator. A couple of the ones I found are rusted and starting to delaminate. The regulator boards are crap and it is almost impossible to find one with good original diodes. There have been many posts on this subject of how to build replacements and also a few posts on building a new circuit entirely. Just do a search on Tecumseh charging. Good luck hope I did not scare you away, these are just some of the problems I found out about the hard and expensive way....

414-8 or 314-8

I have a snow plow for machine available and I am located just outside of Warsaw, IN if interested. You have yourself a very nice machine that is capable of doing alot of work. Send me a private message if interested in the blade. Good luck with your new Horse!

You will love the rear discharge deck. I have had my C-125 for just a year now and it cuts approximately three acres with the 42" rear discharge deck. Unless it's log sized, I have cut too many limbs and stick-ups to count and it will be cutting/mulching tons of maple leaves before too long. I've never met a rake that I cared for and have never, ever in 30 years at my house raked and bagged leaves or picked up twigs and branches.

WELCOME TO nice trade !!

you suppose I could use this excuse to get a big tractor and a 6 foot scrape blade?

If I could only own one ( as much as I love the 312-8 ) I would say a 414-8. The 416-8 is a great machine, but the 14hp engine is a little smoother yet has a little more power to cut really tall grass.

Nice upgrade! You made out for sure. The rear discharge deck might improve your mowing experience, you won't be double mulching the branches and twigs. Good luck and welcome to the forums.

Good trade (i had a snapper too at one time). If you get tired of the 36" deck, you can always trade up to a 42". The later model decks have a steel bar welded across the front and down the sides for impact protection.

Bitten ol' buddy, I have done thought about it. But first I have something for Stevasaurus. I would have Definitely taken the Hawkeyes against the 85' refrigerators. Lol. Hayden Fry was the coach of the Iowa Hawkeyes at that time, and they were taking No Prisoners. Remember back when Iowa was #2 and I believe Michigan was #1 well is wasn't that after the game !2-10 Iowa brings home one Sweet victory!!!! Bitten now it's back to you. I also looked the games over last night with the thought of taking the Big Ten all the way thru but there are a couple of games that make me wonder for Instance Cincinnati at Illinois, Cincy won over Purdue but they won at home. This week there away at Illinois. Ok, heres my picks drum roll please, Big Ten will run the card. Sorry Notre Dame fans but I believe Michigan is just way too strong (unfortunately) As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!!!!

I have been mulching tree limbs for more than 20 years. Got about 15 years out of my first set of blades. Your 310 will handle your yard with no problem.

too late now, but I just did my rears yesterday... I used a heavy bench vice to pinch the tire off the wheel. once one bead broke I used a plate of steel on that side to bite the rim harder and squeeze the tire off the beaded side. works good in the garage, looking forward to my fronts now!

The top of the hood is the coolest but the site won't let me post any more pictures

Sourdough bread, with a bowl of clam chowder (for an appetizer) then...... The most amazing Dungeness crab you have EVER had for the main course....and then a trip to Ghirardelli square for desert DAMN I LOVE FRISCO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

My first question is WHY WOULD ANYONE WANT ONLY ONE ? But, if I could only have one it would have to be the fifty year old 953 that has been mowing, plowing, towing and pushing snow for all that time! And by the way, it has hydraulic lift too.

I'll start it off with my new toy. It aint gonna win but I like it. 1985 310-8 Hey if nobody else enters anything I could win by default! Tim

GO BUCKEYES Penn State and Northwestern where good surprises this week. I knew that Northwestern is a good team but though Calli was a better one. From what I seen Penn State looked better then I would have imagined and that is cool with what the team has gone thru the past couple of years. I would like to pick the B1G across the board this week but not to sure about a couple of the games so I will give it some thought before I make my picks.

Angel and Nora are in our prayers.

i was considering the deestones in 23 x 10.50-12 for the rear of kents 875. i also had interest in the duro 23 x 10.50-12 which looked to be just slightly smaller than the deestone tire. i know the carlisles run bigger than these other two, like was mentioned above. these were going on standard 7" rims, so i knew the carlisles were out (for the look i wanted)....... having seen pics of the duro tires on 7" rims (search on the forum, theres a few) i ended up going for them. i think they look good with just the right amount of 'bulge'........ the deestone tires i looked at were all 6 or 8 ply and really wanted to stay lighter construction at 4. so i went with the duros. personally i think they look better than the deestones, tread slightly rounded more on the shoulders and smoother sidewalls. i know this doesnt help you with your questions though....... i hope your tires work out ok, im sure you will get them to fit the standard rims, or use 8.50" wide ones. just a little bit of experimentation to find the look you want...... i personally like to see what others have done with the parts im interested in first, before laying down the cash. sometimes it takes a lot of searching the forum or internet to get the info, but you can almost guarantee that others in this hobby have been there first....... heres the duro 23 x 10.50-12 on 7" wheels..... if you search seller GCT Wholesale on ebay, their listings have a pic comparing the deestone, duro and bkt ag tires......

Who cares if the rest of it matches...that thing is gorgeous. It's definitely gonna make the tractor.

Look's good Ian . Reckon you ought to widen those Rears though ! ...

IMHO, you just bought one of the best garden tractors Wheelhorse ever made. Plenty of power for the 42 inch deck. You should have the very strong 8 pinion rear end and rear 1-1/8 inch axles. Further, your 14 hp engine is the Kohler Magnum, which not only is all cast iron like the K series engines, but has electronic iginition - no points, etc to deal with. I would also note that of the hood decals with the Toro logo on them, the decals you have - have much bigger Wheelhorse letters/name, which IMHO, are the best looking Toro/Wheelhorse logos. Were I you - I'd make that a lifetime keeper! Good luck, Bill

I have very discretly burned a couple off, it also strips the wheel quit well !!!

Craig: Keep the hot water heater, you were in the military, the bed is way over rated..

So...something's gotta go. No worries Mike...I'll make room. Hot water heaters are way over rated anyway.

Jake, aren't you supposed to be picking berries or getting ready for school??? :) Nice find my friend.

I picked up another WH, C120 looks like a 1976. It came with a rear discharge deck (Needs work). It runs but smokes. Former owner removed the governor linkage and ignition switch. K301 engine. How bad are these to rebuild?

Hi Martin, Yes , I'm pretty happy with the way it is going. There are always bits I'm not happy with, but I've drawn a line as to what I think is necessary. I've not attempted to blend out some of the pitting in the out of the way places, but settled for corrosion protection for now. Yes, went for Studs in those 3 positions, they were from the Cool side of the Engine when it had a Fuel Tank bolted on top. I'm planning to use them for a Muffler Stack Support Bracket at a later stage (dare I say the Muffler may be chrome). I'd Ieft the Coppered Manifold (Header) Locknuts there for now (they're unused from an early 90s Ford). I need to be sure I can support the weight of the Muffler before I go public on the set up.....may call for some Victorian Engineering principles !. The Tread Plate is great material, got it from a local friend and have enough left to maybe line the underseat Tool Box area. Hi Massey, Thanks and for looking in on Euro Section, we try to do justice to these Tractors like you Guys. Got to keep these Horses Wheeling and shiney Regards

Yo Matt, Thanks, I reckon the Hood should be ok (for a heavily Tarted Up worker). Nothing Novel to report progress-wise and I know you all like pics, so I've included a few just to 'Bulk' this Post out a bit. I have had a struggle with the Belt Guard and Footrests, as previously mentioned, but pleased to say that part is now consigned to it's history and they're finished, fitted and I did drill the extra holes for Footrest fixing , but they sure are rigid now. Also made up Plates for the Footrests using the same Blistered Ali as on my Raider12. Used the existing Holes. I shall make up some 'Super Grippy' ones for the Muddy Cold Season now I have the Templates, then just swap 'em over when necessary. I've bolted down the Cylinder Head after I did a 'Drip Down' test... you may ask?. I get a good idea of how well the fit of the Piston and Ring gap spacings are (all min spec anyway) by putting 30cc of Oil in the Bore and see how long it takes to seep down past the Rings.....25 hours....that'll do me. Have done all the Brake 'n' Clutch Linkage. I had to make a new Brake Latch Spring as one end of the original had rotted away. I found the perfect replacement on an old Anglepoise Lamp, the Spring just needed shortening and the end bent. (if anybody needs one, I can make another 3). I ended up drilling an extra hole in the Stiffening Web on the Tranny for the Clutch Spring. The Spring just clears the Brake Rod now, but I may still put an extension (stand off) Bracket on later. Had a delay sorting the Hood Blasting/Powercoat, the Firm I use are having new Gear installed and he's busy, so it will be a week or so. No big deal really, as I'm going to visit an RS Cyber Buddy who is going to do some welding work on the Rear Fender for me, so maybe I'll get both Panels done at the same time. Still got lots to do and purchase before it can move under it's own power (with me on it of course). Will try and get some Lathe Time in and take a few pics of it for those of you who also like that sort of thing. Bye for now.

Anglo you are the master I want you to sell your house, move to the US and buy a house next door to me. That way I can use your lathe and we can work on tractors all day Bring a woman with you because I don't go that way .

Gentleman, Thankyou !. Matt, Thanks for taking the time to read this. Martin , What can I say !. It's a bit like Micheal Angelo complimenting a Plasterer !. Your the Man when it comes to High Standards. Lars, Thanks !. I'm looking forward to your Project Postings. Mark, Thanks/Hi, Glad to have time (due to insomnia) to get back into this project and being on here for longer. Ah yes !, Lense work. Well the first thing to do was deal with the Weld Spatter , I did this with a round nosed Dental Burr in a miniature Dremel type drill, followed up by a 1/8" Ballnosed Slot Drill. This left a small dished recess which was then polished until Transparent. Then wet sanded the scratches out using P600/P1200 grade paper with Washing up liquid. I also cleaned the paint off. The Lense now look's a dull matt finish like so- I'm going to repair this recess with a Cellulose Laquer and will need several coats to build up just past the surface level before polishing, so I'll come back to this in a later update. Another item that needed attention was the worn Hood Latch Rod and to source High Crown Retaining Nuts. I went to my 27year old stock of Silver (Tool) Steel and Yep! 1/4" dia x 13" was 'In Stock' and 2 Harley Acorn Nuts arrived in the post- They had to be chrome, as I couldn't find ordinary Steel - Measure up and into the Chuck of my 1948 Myford , turning the ends down to size and threading with a 10 x 24 tpi Die in the Tailstock Die Holder- Finished Rod and parts for when the Hood is ready, alongside the old bits - I dropped the Belt Cover and Footrests off to be Grit Blasted, plan to collect them Tuesday straight after Blasting so I can get them back and Primed quickly. Regards.