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Todays score! Got a late 55 rj35 for 60 bucks and a k91 for 40. The k91 has the correct throttle cables for a 35 which is the main reason I bought it. Has some nice tins too. The 35 was the best score though! It just needs a motor, belt guard, steering wheel and engine pulley. The gas tank looks pretty decent too! The drive system is rigged...I will have to tear into it today. They have a bolt going through the hub so there probably are not pauls but it does still work. The veri drive seems to be in good shape though. The wheels and tires look great too. Hope to have it going soon. Don't think i'm going to paint it.

There was an auction near my inlaw's place where a family was selling all of their farm equipment. I talked with the owner, and he said he had purchased it from the 1st owner and that the mower has spent it's whole life locally and was always serviced at the place where it was originally sold. The 42" deck looks awesome. He gave me the manual and reciepts going back to 1999. I am not sure what year it is, anyone know? The model number is: 73400 Serial number 5902150 M14s Serial number: Spec:601559 Serial number: 2515906393 Not sure what I am going to do with it yet. Paid $550 + 10% auction fee.

Been waiting all day for my call back on this second owner tractor. Chris said he got this little 603 from the original owner years ago. Said all of his kids have grown up on it, his oldest daughter used to sleep in his arms while he was mowing with it. Said all his years living in this area he's never seen anyone with the Wheelhorse banner emblazened across the back window of their truck. You know I had to tell him about the forum and the Biglersville show too. Pretty sure he was having sellers remorse there at the end...whew! I think I got outta there just in time. LOL.

Craig: Keep the hot water heater, you were in the military, the bed is way over rated..

If you haven't already done so, don't forget to drain the transmission oil before attempting to open her up.

Bob was right, latest carb came out of the bath a little darker than the first one... was in the bath for a day and a half this time...still cleaned up much better than before though. Got another K91 going today...removed the flywheel, visually inspected the coil, condenser, both looked fine. Removed the points cover...ahhh...there's the problem, full of white, crusty corrosion. Got 'em cleaned up, and adjusted...mounted up the freshly cleaned carb, fired off on the second pull... keep this up, and I'm gonna have to piece together another round hood soon.

Actually, that paint dries to the touch very fast...no need to wait three hours to handle it...more like twenty minutes. The last one I did...I rushed right through the painting process, one light coat, waited about five minutes... then two more heavy coats back to back. I then let it dry overnight before doing the heat curing, and cool down cycles. I think I did at least three cycles of heating it up to operating temps, and cooling back down mounted on the tractor. Followed the directions on the can, not to the letter though. I think you'll find it's an easy product to work with really. Painted this one a few months ago...holding up fine so far.

The toughest task when pulling apart a trans. seems to be removing the hubs that your rear wheels bolt onto. Whatever you do, don't try to hammer them off; either you will bust them or the lock ring retainer on the inside will break, both are bad things! At the rear of your trans. you will have a 3/4" pin that goes through the two halves of the trans. and attaches your trailer hitch and/or slot hitch, remove the lock rings and drive it out with a punch ( this you can hit!) Once you have watched the vidios anr read a few postings on this site you should have no problem doing the job. Let us know how you are doing.

Really profound this time of year!-I still have these feelings-Thanks-Al http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlXDo5WhQXI

Hi guys... The 702 is starting to look even better. Last week I put on a set of correct decals on, got rid of the 65 style decals. And today I put on some new tri ribs and some nice used 6-12 lugs. The wheels were also base/clear coated and look really nice! In the last week I have gotten some hl5 lights in deals. There are 3 pretty decent lights and one broken one. I am hoping to find some brackets for it or buy some reproduction brackets. I have been hoping to put a set of hl5 lights on this since I got it and I got these lights for next to nothing. Well anyways...here are some pictures of it.

That TORO dealer has no clue on how to do a 5025 transmission. Don't you let him touch it!!! They come apart easy and go back together easier. Time for us to ask you some questions. Tools...got a 9/16 box end wrench and an assortment of sockets and a ratchet? Do you have a razor knife? Do you have a scraper? Do you have some punches and a ball peen hammer? How about some hand cleaner and some rags or paper towels? Sorry...I got to ask this...how old are you? Just curious. If you decide to tackle this, and I think you should, we all will help walk you through the process. Check out these threads and watch the videos... This thread show tons of pictures and is the same transmission that you have.

It's a keeper for now....after sorting out a few issues. With the big steering wheel it feels like an old Mack truck. I just need a Bull dog on the hood.

The 4 hp K91 shouldn't have an electric starter. What tractor is it out of or what tractor do you plan on installing it? Have you pulled the spark plug and tried turning it over? Here's the Kohler service manual that might be helpful: http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

I have used VHT Header Paint before. I read the directions and I'm going to bake the muffler in the oven. 30 min. at 250F, let cool 30 min. etc. What I was confused about is, do I have to wait 7 days for the paint to cure, before baking it? The directions seem a little gray as to how long to wait before baking it. I read some instructons for VHT header paint. They say to wait until paint is dry. They said it takes 3 hours before being able to handle what I painted. I'm assuming to start the baking process after the 3 hour drying time. If anyone has any advice. I would appreciate it.

Nice find!!! You can park it in my living room. lol

Looks like a nice one, Craig.

Park it in the bedroom! Or are you sleeping in the truck with it?

OK, which barrel are you in? See now I wish I lived closer. We'd have a mini tractor tag team!

If you get that hitch pin out...you are home free. The hardest part is done. Run the seam with a razor knife between the 2 halves after you take out the bolts...make sure you have the shallow side of the trans down and the shifter out...you are just cutting the paint...find a good edge between the castings and use a good sharp chisel or scraper to break loose the trans halves...separate evenly...use a pry bar or two at different spots...the factory did not use gasket sealer, and we will not use it to put it back together, you can pry it up easily after that. Did I say that it is a great idea to file the ends of all shafts...ie...file all burrs...so there is no hold up pulling the two halves of the trans apart?? Use your hand to feel the ends of the shafts for high parts or burrs...file them smooth first before trying to take the trans half apart. It is soft metal and does not take much, but worth the time when you put it back together....plus saving seals.

I'm going to ditto what jc1965 just said...702 is one of the best tractors out there and one of my favorites. Jake, yours looks out standing...great pictures.

Jake, aren't you supposed to be picking berries or getting ready for school??? :) Nice find my friend.

The type of primer depends on what paint you use. It's always best to use, under red (or any light color for that matter), a light colored primer from the same manufacturer and the same line of paint. The chemical properties (EG, the solvent base of both primer and top-coat) must match or you could cause yourself grief when you spray the top coat. Also, primer and paint are both just icing on the cake. The preparation work to the metal surface is key to any good paint job, and final 400 grit sanding preparation of the primed surfaces is just as important. Think "clean, clean, clean) If what's under the paint looks like crap, the whole job will look like crap. MHO

ok here we go... Woke up this morning with a pile of raw wood in my truck that needed to be sealed. Just need to pick up 2" hitch and done.. Decided to go with Maple Ply stained and cleared all sides at this time until I get the cash to go buy the rough Mahogany...I still think it looks damn good..

This guy has been around since the late 70's...Stray Cats....rockabilly...swing...time and a place for all styles of music: most of the time in my barn with a fridge full of beer!!

Know that you have brothers and sisters in Christ all over the country/globe with the family in their prayers. He is a great God, and He will work at all for glory. . . now or in the future. Jeff

That is a good looking machine Jake. Love the tri-ribs and AG's. Looks like you have plenty of space there to stretch its legs.

It doesn't look quite as pretty today...but this is what it looked like when it was rattle canned in 2007.

Ok, as requested...

I'm jammed up but I think I can squeeze it in my garage. Nice tractor. Marvin

The Woodruff Key should be a snug fit, it should just fit it -- any 'slop' or looseness would make it a lot weaker. The Woodruff Key is inserted so it is straight-level in and above the shaft, and the hub is gently pushed or tapped in, the rear hub is positioned and normally pushed in to even with the end of the axle shaft. The Key is about 1/8th inch above the axle shaft when on, and into the hub about that same 1/8th inch (drawing above does not show this). Good Luck, it should be a very easy task installing it, (with the correct Key); and, Welcome to Red Square.

My guess is it isn't tight enough. To adjust pull the hair pin and turn the trunnion. Shorten to tighten, and lengthen to loosen.

You can try adjusting the Trunion attached to the forward end of the lever rod (Pivot point) where it attaches to the Bellcrank above the PTO. I think you back it off the threads try one turn and see if it stays engaged. If not try another until it remains engaged.

I did the search thing but can't nail down what Eaton a 97' 314h has in it. It appears the 1100 is better than the 700. Any easy way to tell by looking at it? Regards, Kpd

I love my C-160 and $350 is awesome ........ the lug tires alone are probably $100 - $150 each, and with the weights and blade WOW... .. super buy! The brakes shouldn't be too costly. Also, I like the idea of not touching anything cosmetically..... C-160's are more like draught "horses" not show horses! (in my opinon) Steve (aka Dresden Guy)

I've used bar style ag tires for years without any damage to the lawn - less wheel spinning when turning around results in less damage . I even run chains on mine and it leaves no marks whatsoever . Turf tires spin too easily and cause way more damage than any lug tire ever will , unless you get wild and try to spin those , then you have holes . Sarge

I feel like a black sheep with my 1982 red hood . This is a unrestored 1982 SK486 with 1300 hours I bought new. I use it about 20-25 hours in the fall to clean up leaves. I use and old 42" deck for my vacuum system. I mow with a 99 314-8 Bowtie in Ohio

alright, pulled the c125 out for some seat time today and snapped a few pics for this nomination........ out of all my tractors this is my favorite ride, its not a perfect rebuild, doesnt look perfect, didnt cost me a bunch of money to rebuild, and it got done in record time for me....... i pulled this one apart on the 5th july and by the 24th august it was basically done and the decals were going on.was working 50 hour weeks at work as well, so it was hectic to say the least....... i rebuilt nearly all of it except the engine and trans, more of a cosmetic and worn out rebuild, sheetmetal got the most attention as it had a hard life.....and repainted everything in that time. it was meant to be a quickie and i wanted to get it done asap. along the way it got a few small mods here and there..... since finishing it i have added the 520 tach, big rear wheels, scott moreau hitch and new tires all round. all the sheetmetal is powder coat and the engine and trans cast iron were done with rattle cans....... enjoy the pics and if you want to see the rebuild thread here it is...... heres a few pics of how it was back when i got it and from today....... the pics will go big if you click on them and want to look closer....... and a video thrown in too.......

Kelly I have done quite a few. Very easy but on an assembled engine need to be carefull with shavings. besides plugging hole with a paper towel i keep taking tap out and vacuuming shavings often. Kind of important to go in as deep as possible since hole in engine is a bit oversize for 1/2"tap. Going in deeper allows you to have higher percentage of thread on high part of taper so there is less chance of stripping threads when tightening nipple. On an engine without the valve this is really easy since you can see tap bottoming out through port. Of course important to go in perpendicular to opening. Here are some photos of a K90 I just did.

That's why were here Kelly...great minds think alike.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTH6nrD0ars This ones for you Steve.......hope you still have some left!!!!!! Whiskey that is.....In a Jar!!!!!

The only and I repeat only country I will listen too is Johnny Cash and maybe a little David Allen Coe or Charlie Daniels. As Hank Williams III says in "Dic in Dixie" "pop country really sucks" But mostly it is Classic Rock, Zeppelin, Floyd.... I also listen to metal like, Iron Maiden, Pantera...

This 72 Raider 12 is all Spray Canned. Also , on my current 74 C-120/Raider project

both of these are rattle cans.

Wow!! You guys do great work! Makes me want to start gathering up some cans.

:USA: here are a few.

Rattle, Rattle, Bang, Bang!

Here are some pic's of the 18 auto I am restoring using rattle cans.