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Hello everyone, Last week I was at a small tractor show in Durham Ct. I brought my fathers suburban and my brothers rj58. The show consisted of big tractors such as farmalls etc lol. Everyone there loved the little wheel horse tractors. I came across a gentlemen that said he had a wheel horse tractor in his barn but he couldnt really give me any detail on it. We exchanged phone numbers and we planned a time to meet. In my mind I thought it was going to be a suburban or an rj58. Today the gentlemen came over with the tractor. It turned out to be a 1955 rj35 cable steer! It has the original kill switch still on it. The tractor looks rough but its all there but the motor. Iam very happy with this find!! I will try to get more detailed pictures later.

I have been looking and watching for a three point hitch for a C195 for some time. So you can probably imagine my surprise when I found one still attached to a C195. The center link is not correct, but the rest of the hitch looks good. The tractor is in need of some TLC, but overall not too bad. It comes with a 48 inch deck and cast iron wheel weights. The model tag is unreadable, but I believe it is a 1984. Also in the deal is a blade and a home made spring tine harrow. I am a happy camper!

Well I finally got a chance to wrench on my latest scarf, my 1956 RJ35. It had some wrong parts on it that I had to remove and replace. The seat was wrong and the gas tank too. The rims are painted cream color now but will have to be stripped down to bare metal and painted the correct color of black. I removed the 1965 style hood decals and installed a new set of Mayhew's 1955-57 style hood decals. I looked at all of the original condition RJ35's on this site and they all seem to have their decals in this location there abouts. Most of the restored RJ35's on this site have their decals in a few different spots, so I went with what I think is the more correct location. But I am sure whoever(Elmer or Cecil!!) installed them back then, didn't have an exact spot in which to put a few hundred on, day after day for 3 years! So they vary a little bit. I also removed the muffler heat shield which I don't think they had in 1956. It got in the way of the drive handle so I don't want it on there, I'll put in on my parts shelf for a later model machine. My buddy Packrat straightened out the hood which was caved in pretty bad and twisted too. After he beat it with a BFH and body dolly for an hour or so, I restored a lot of the paint on this tractor without repainting anything. The paint on the hood was all mangled up from gas getting spilled on it over the years and someone laid a rubber hose on it and it decayed and melted into the paint. The fuel sediment bowl leaked gas all over the frame and it looked bad. The paint resto/repairs turned out great and I will put some wax on the hood and frame and it will look awesome! Thanks to Clay for identifying this original Clinton engined machine as a late production 1956 RJ35 WH.!! I love these rare style of front tires, they are the early style Generals. The sidewalls are little different than the later style of Generals. BFG bar lugs on the rear. The belt guard should be the open style so I may change that around. I also changed the exhaust system, but it still isn't correct for a Clinton, but that is what I had laying around. I haven't tried to get it running yet since the gas tank still needs painted. Gotta redo the drive handle too. How's it look? KJ

steve, you are right, that 1508 is a b-1212. i think i remember going through this before and there was a mistake on one of the lists here somewhere. in my half asleep post yesterday, i searched that number without looking at the thread on my 1057 trans rebuild. in this post i have the numbers of the bearings i used (theres even a close up of the b-1212!!!!!- i used 2 of them back to back on this trans).......... in the bearing reference list on the forum there is a mistake regarding the 1508 and i just confused myself even more........ 1508 is b-1212 (like you said) (3/4 width and 3/4 inside diameter) input shafts on 3 speeds b-1012 is 3/4 width and 5/8 inside diameter ..................................input shafts on 4 speeds b-107 is just under 1/2 width and 5/8 inside diameter....................input shafts on 6 and 8 speeds. is this correct now? i have the edit function to change it again.....(until i dont and its set in stone to confuse yet again)

I had a cart like this a few years ago, but ended up selling it. Can't tell from the photo, but mine was a 14 cubic foot version. The tailgate swings out from the bottom instead of sliding out of the top of the cart. Here is a couple of photos that might help make sense. I didn't like the fact I couldn't put my push mower in the cart without lifting it up and over the side. Thad (Ohio)

I had built one of these a few years ago so I could use a newer 42" SD deck on my 1056, but a member at my Yahoo group needed one, so I ended up selling it. It's actually nothing more than two 7 1/2 inch long pieces of 1/4" X 2" flat steel and a front hitch from a 1972/73 & newer WH, and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the OEM kit - which is practically extinct. This can also be used on the 1970/71 tractors just by cutting the back out of the hitch to clear the hood hinges and clearancing the top for the hood to open - or by completely removing the hood hinges from the front of the frame and using the pivot rod holes in the front hitch to attach the hood. (just like the later models) The hitch only sits out about 5/16" more than the newer tractors, so the OEM length deck drive belt can still be used. After a suitable front hitch is located, here is the procedure. The first step is to find some 1/4" X 2" flat steel and cut to a rough length of 7 1/2". Using the two front holes on the sides of the frame as a pattern, lay out, centerpunch, and drill two 3/8" holes in each piece: The upper corners on the back side of the hitch need clearanced for the hood hinge plate on the '65 to '69 tractors. I also ground the area at the bolster pin hole to clear the e clip. This particular front hitch is from a C-101. (Test fit the hitch by placing the 3/4" hole over the end of the bolster pin and holding it firmly against the axle mounting plate on the front of the frame): Bolt the side plates to the frame using flat washers as spacers: Locate the front hitch over the end of the bolster pin, push it back tight against the front frame plate, and clamp the three pieces together. (there should be a small gap between the hitch and the plates - it's a great place to lay a bead!) Verify that everything lines up correctly and tack weld the side plates to the hitch: Remove the 4 bolts, pull the hitch off the tractor, and finish welding. Grind the welds if they are ugly like mine, or just for a nice appearance. : Blast, prime, paint, powder coat, chrome plate, or whatever you desire, then reinstall the finished hitch to the frame. (without the "spacer" washers) : Snap the deck belt tensioner, snowthrower, etc. into the hitch just like on the "new" ones! : TA-DA! (The best part of the "TT" front hitch is that it stays together when removed from the tractor. )

Hi guys, Finally got some new tires on my tub carts. I put on new carlisle sawtooths with tubes. The rims on it were ok...but I wanted to paint them. I put a good coat of primer on, and base/clear coated the rims. The paint is a little off from the original, but are good enough for these. I might end up restoring one of these carts, not sure yet. Here's a couple pictures. Jake

I've had my eye on this thing for several years. It belonged to a friend who didn't want to sell it a few years ago when I asked him about about it. I knew he didn't use it much and it was just sitting there starting to rust. Well he finally said he wanted to sell it due to moving. He's down sizing and getting out of some of his hobbies. So we settled on a price and I brought it home yesterday and set it up. It,s a bench top combination lathe and milling machine / drill press. A couple pics... After some cleaning and lubricating the ways... I know this machine is limited but it will serve my purposes nicely for some small projects. I have one Wheel Horse project in the planning stage for it as a first project. We'll see how that goes. Hope you like the pics.

Local CL ad C-160 $200 trans not functioning correct, engine runs fine etc. Around here that is enough info to go look anyway. I get there and it was pretty rough, told the guy no thanks and he says $150...no thanks, he says $100...obviously I had to drop the gate to the trailer....Newer 42" RD deck, rear lift and cable, dry cracked tires and plenty of oil and grease everywhere!

These were taken this spring on a gravel packed road, no new gravel was spread.

i think we are finally done, i took some video and pics last night, but didnt get any tonight with it finished. tomorrow is another day so maybe i will get some of him riding around. heres what went on yesterday, the first one is a video of its maiden voyage, the last two are pics of how we left off last night.......

This is what I came up with for the tank mount/hood support. I'll use a setup similar to the original straps to secure the tank. Each "strap" will actually be three pieces. One piece over the top and then two pieces underneath from each side with a bolt to snug it up. At least that's the plan so far.

That's it Thad.....I picked it up today. I see there is a spring missing for the tailgate latch.

The 108991 should possibly be 103991 which is a switch for magneto ignition. One of the terminals should be identified with the letter M. The C-101 originally had battery ignition and uses switch 103990. This one should have a terminal identified with an I for ignition. Garry

Torrington bearing numbers follow a simple format. B-1212 is 12/16=3/4 x 12/16=3/4 B-1012 is 10/16=5/8 x 12/16=3/4 B-107 is 10/16=5/8 x 7/16 C/R or Chicago Rawhide seals are similar. 9xxx part number is designed for a .9xxx" shaft 12xxx part number is designed for a 1.2xxx" shaft Not exact sizes but close. Garry

Great video, that's exactly what I am saying, it Really does move a good volume of material, if you use it right. I was truly amazed at the ease and fun at the same time.

What have I been telling you? Be patient! Nice score! Interesting that it has an early brake kit on it too!

Those wheels really look good Lars, well worth the effort of getting them to fit. One question though...... How does the cat reach the cutting deck lifting arm when he/she is driving???

Thats a nice RJ35 , how do i get hold of Mayhews decals for an RJ35 I now have my first pond tractor here in UK and i think it is probabley the ony pond tractor in the UK Dontcha ya just luv the little round hoods

I found this oldie in a barn a couple years ago. The owner wouldn't take $175.00 for it so it has sat there for a couple more years. I drove by his farm house Saturday and they were having a barn sale so I had to turn in and try to buy it again! Turns out the old timer past away a few months ago and the family is trying to sell some of his stuff. I asked about the tractor and they said to make an offer on it. I said I'd like to get it for about $150.00 since it is in rough shape. They had to call the Mrs. and she said rather quickly NO to my offer and the guy hung up the phone. I said well I may go higher on it and he gave me her number and said to call her tomorrow. I called her back and she was asleep someone said. So I left my number and said I was interested in making another offer on the tractor in the barn. She never called me back! So I'll have to stop by again and try to get it for $200 maybe! Dang it! So close but so far away! The tractor has some good stuff left on it but all 4 tires are shot and one front rim looks to be shot too. Only half of the important choke and throttle assembly is there and it has the wrong motor on it, a H60. So it may not be worth $200 yet but after I change some stuff around on it, will it be a better deal. Hope she don't want more than $200 for it, dang! KJ

Thanks AMC Rules! I'll be lookin' for dye this week. The gray didn't look too bad mowin' out in the sunshine but, black would be closer to the GI (government issue) appearance. The seat was very comfy mowin' today. A neat feature is the forward aft gain. I'm a six footer and yet had room to move the seat forward for better access to the 416-8's clutch and break pedals. Grandson and I are both pleased we went "garbage pickin'!" If I ever see another, I'm stoppin'! PS. Will post a pic after the dye job.

Looks like some nice progress! I believe most 57's came with white rims...but I personally like the black better too. I am going to paint the rims black on my 57 rj35 resto. Jake

Not my property, they are dear friends....

Make sure your condenser is good and wired to the - side of the coil.

It might be a double header, on Jeff's with sulky's. I may be able to come and I now have a second Pond tractor and some attachments. One of them being a sulky which I put behind the unit with the sickle mower. If I can get someone to switch work weekend with me I'll be there.

OOPS! I was thinking, Warsaw MO. Well come on over anyway. We'll make a day of it.

Looking forward to this!

I will have to disagree with this statement, finding a early round hood with it's original Tecumseh engine can bring receive a top dollar figure. Since the Lauson/ Tecumseh engine used a cast aluminum engine block they did have the tendency to wear out faster then the cast iron blocked Kohler or Clinton thus making them now harder to find. A 702 or 753 with it's Kohler can be a easy find BUT a 552 or 653 with an original Tecumseh ....... well now that is a find ! Wild Bill Richmond, VA

Looks like a cool show, I will be planning on coming. Maybe bring my 702 and POND walker with sulky. We'll see if I can get the sulky finished up. Time will tell.

I like the looks of the ATV tires Lars. And nice job on the wide rims. They look new!

here are the front rims mounted an tested.. and wow i dint thought it should be so big diffrent from 6 to 8 inch in it.. Thanks Lars

I feel like a black sheep with my 1982 red hood . This is a unrestored 1982 SK486 with 1300 hours I bought new. I use it about 20-25 hours in the fall to clean up leaves. I use and old 42" deck for my vacuum system. I mow with a 99 314-8 Bowtie in Ohio

Looks like mine Bob, but maybe with a gate modified by the PO? Good luck on the hunt.